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Old 01-22-2019, 07:50 PM #1
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VSC OFF, VSC TRAC, Brake! And ABS lights on – need help ☹

Hey all – I could really use some help. Driving home today, and as I get off the off-ramp and come to a stop, my Brake! light went on. A second later, it was joined by VSC OFF, VSC TRAC, and ABS. The Skid Light and Check Engine lights are NOT lit. The brakes feel normal, and the car drives fine.

I get home and pull the codes, and I get:

C0125 – Rear Speed Sensor LH Circuit
C1223 – ABS Control System Malfunction
and most puzzling of all
C1340 – Open Circuit in Center Differential Lock Signal (During Center Differential Lock On)

I can’t use the OBDII reader to clear the codes (I have one of the older models prone to the ISO/CAN language barrier that deletes the Zero Point Calibration issue – been there, done that, don't wanna do it again), so I disconnected the battery, touched the cables to each other, and reconnected. When I turned the T4R back on, all the same lights lit up immediately. So, I’m guessing it is an ongoing fault.

Just out of curiosity, I locked the center diff, drove back and forth, then unlocked it. I had no issues either locking or unlocking (at least that I could see).

I’ve googled and am getting nowhere. Any idea what I am looking at? Are all three codes related? Are the first two related (can a bad speed sensor also trip C1223?) and the C1340 is an unrelate “red herring”? In short, how the heck do I fix this speedily and, hopefully, without mortgaging what is left of my soul?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-22-2019, 08:35 PM #2
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Check for physical damage to the abs sensor or corrosion of wiring/connectors Sensor is plugged into the back of each hub. First code is referencing drivers side rear wheel sensor so check there first.
If everything looks good you’ll need to dig further , the sensor can be tested using a voltmeter.
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Old 01-22-2019, 11:05 PM #3
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Thank you. The sensor and harness look fine, but I found one on Amazon for $29 (80% of the OEM price), so I ordered it. If swapping it out doesn't work, I haven't wasted much beyond time.

Any ideas if the other codes might be related to that sensor (as unrelated as they seem to be)? I had read on one post that the wheel speed sensors can throw clusters of seemingly random codes alongside the C0215 when they go?
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Old 01-22-2019, 11:20 PM #4
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I have heard of the gas cap (no joke) causing this problem. Needs to be turned until one click. Also if defective causes this problem. That and the cables already mentioned are two primary culprits. Good luck!


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Old 01-23-2019, 12:28 AM #5
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Battery

Another cause could be your battery. We have had similar problems with our 4runner in the past. Now we know that the battery is weak and once replaced everything is back to normal. Living in the desert you have to replace a battery every two to three years.

We have to replace the gas cap ever three years or so also.
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Old 01-23-2019, 11:00 AM #6
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I had the same thing going on last week. Turned out it was low brake fluid causing the dash lights. As the pads wear it takes more fluid to push them against the rotors. It's worth a quick look. I topped off the fluid and no more dash lights, just need to find the time to do a brake job now.

Last edited by missoularider; 01-23-2019 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 01-25-2019, 06:40 AM #7
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Thanks guys!

I know it isn't the gas cap; I've seen that happen before, but it usually throws the check engine light too, and never the Brake! light. This was different. It wasn't the battery either. It has been really cold here, and my battery died three weeks ago, so I'm running a brand new Optima Red Top.

I went with the only code that made sense, and replaced the driver's side wheel speed sensor last night. I cleared the codes and drove up and down the mountain on which I live - drove about ten miles. So far, so good (finger's crossed) - No codes or lights.

The new sensor seems to have done the trick. I'll update if the issue returns . . . but hopefully not. Thanks everybody!
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Old 02-08-2021, 11:54 AM #8
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Specimen: 2007 V8 Limited - 210k Miles

I believe I've come across the same problem. I was driving home and came to a stop at a light, all the sudden the dashboard was lit up! Lights on: VSC OFF , ABS, VSC TRAC, Anti-Skid, and Brake!. While the "Gas Cap" code/solution is common, I knew it was odd that the Brake! light was on. Additionally, I started the truck up the next morning and got the codes scanned and on my drive home, the lights were off! And now they're back on again... So I did some searching and found this thread, as I believe it to be a similar problem but some variation in the codes that were pulled:

C0215: Replaced ABS Wheel Sensor
C1223: ABS Control system Malfunction
C1239: Foreign Object is Attached on tip of Rear Speed Sensor LH
C1241: Low Battery Positive Voltage
C1246: Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor
C1256: Accumulator Low Pressure

So, for the first 3 codes it seems wheel speed sensor related. The latter 3 though, I'm struggling if they're of concern or if the speed sensor caused them haphazardly. I've seen other threads with similar dash light results (except no Brake! light was on) and it turned out to be the Brake Motor/Accumulator causing the problem, with a result of $3k+ at the dealer or still $600+ DIY fix. I checked my brake fluid level and it's still full, and was last bleed Feb, 2020. Any insight to this potential larger problem would be helpful.
@Tuthmose , do you have any updates/tips/tricks/advice from when you replaced the speed sensor? I'm hoping I can get a replacement similar to yours ($30 aint bad) and reset the codes and that solves everything.
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Old 05-19-2021, 12:53 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash Runner View Post
Specimen: 2007 V8 Limited - 210k Miles

I believe I've come across the same problem. I was driving home and came to a stop at a light, all the sudden the dashboard was lit up! Lights on: VSC OFF , ABS, VSC TRAC, Anti-Skid, and Brake!. While the "Gas Cap" code/solution is common, I knew it was odd that the Brake! light was on. Additionally, I started the truck up the next morning and got the codes scanned and on my drive home, the lights were off! And now they're back on again... So I did some searching and found this thread, as I believe it to be a similar problem but some variation in the codes that were pulled:

C0215: Replaced ABS Wheel Sensor
C1223: ABS Control system Malfunction
C1239: Foreign Object is Attached on tip of Rear Speed Sensor LH
C1241: Low Battery Positive Voltage
C1246: Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor
C1256: Accumulator Low Pressure

So, for the first 3 codes it seems wheel speed sensor related. The latter 3 though, I'm struggling if they're of concern or if the speed sensor caused them haphazardly. I've seen other threads with similar dash light results (except no Brake! light was on) and it turned out to be the Brake Motor/Accumulator causing the problem, with a result of $3k+ at the dealer or still $600+ DIY fix. I checked my brake fluid level and it's still full, and was last bleed Feb, 2020. Any insight to this potential larger problem would be helpful.
@Tuthmose , do you have any updates/tips/tricks/advice from when you replaced the speed sensor? I'm hoping I can get a replacement similar to yours ($30 aint bad) and reset the codes and that solves everything.
Any luck solving your issue? I just had the same lights (and crazy siren) come on this morning. Everything seemed to work fine for a few blocks then I felt a weird click through my brake pedal and it became very difficult to press down and almost rear-ended the guy in front of me. I checked around the MC assembly, didn't see any leaks, brake fluid is full. I need to try to limp it somewhere to pull any codes, but I'm guessing this is not just a bad switch, ground, or gas cap issue.
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Old 06-07-2021, 01:12 PM #10
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Just a follow up post in case anyone else had the same issue. I found a remanufactured motor and accumulator assembly on ebay for $350. My local mechanic installed it and the siren is off, but the VSC + VSC Trac lights are still on. The motor/pump assembly works as it's supposed to I think. But it does come on every time I hit the brake pedal, which is something it didn't use to do, even in quick succession. If I'm stopped at a light with the pedal depressed it might cycle on again after 15-20 seconds. Does this sound like another issue like the system isn't holding proper pressure?
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