User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 04-30-2019, 10:23 PM #1
Bluesky 07's Avatar
Bluesky 07 Bluesky 07 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 1,309
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
Bluesky 07 is a jewel in the rough Bluesky 07 is a jewel in the rough Bluesky 07 is a jewel in the rough Bluesky 07 is a jewel in the rough
MY GARAGE
Bluesky 07 Bluesky 07 is offline
Senior Member
Bluesky 07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 1,309
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
Bluesky 07 is a jewel in the rough Bluesky 07 is a jewel in the rough Bluesky 07 is a jewel in the rough Bluesky 07 is a jewel in the rough
MY GARAGE
9 Easy Steps to Lighting Your 4th Gen's Door-Mounted Switches

We all know our friends at Toyota "missed an opportunity" by not lighting the window and lock controls in the door panels. I followed a 2009 thread by @loner and appreciate that info, but the pic links are dead so I decided to do a step-by-step write up. This mod is pretty easy and really makes a difference in the dark, be it nighttime, parking deck, tunnels, etc. As with all write-ups, this is for info only and you are responsible for safely accomplishing any work on your vehicle.

You will need the following for each door you wish to light:
- An LED bulb designed for a 12V system - I used this orange one from Radio Shack to match the OEM dash illumination.
- Drill & appropriately sized bit (9/32 for the Radio Shack LED linked above)
- Quick disconnects (technically not required but a must for facilitating future door panel removal). As seen in the pics, I used a different type but if doing it over, I would use these as they’re less expensive and more similar to the OEM plugs.
- Method to tap power (I used a red Scotchlok, the kind that folds over the wire and forms a female connection to plug into.)
- Method to ground the black wire (I crimped a ring onto it but whatever works)

Steps:
1. Remove the door panel. (Thanks, @SamNavy )

2. Drill an appropriately sized hole. This is obviously after the mod was done but shows where the mounting hole goes.



3. (Optional) Test the LED to be sure it works. If it doesn't, you'll be glad you discovered it now. (A quick & simple test is to touch the red and black wires to the + & - terminals of a 9V battery. It won't light all the way but you'll know it works.)

4. Install & secure the LED. This is probably the toughest part of the job b/c of the tight quarters. The Radio Shack bulbs have a threaded base and a nut, but it’s really hard to turn the nut to get it tightened down. It’s been a while so I can’t recall whether I gave up and just glued it in, but in any case, it doesn’t have to look perfect since no one will see it. As long as the LED is secure, you’re good.

5. Splice in one half of the quick disconnect to the wires from the LED bulb, red to red and black to black. I soldered the connections and used heat-shrink tubing over each one.

6. Tap the power.

a) Crimp a male blade-type connector onto the red wire from the other half of the quick disconnect.

b) Verify ignition is off. (You may also wish to disconnect your battery, though I didn't.) For the driver's side door, the correct wire is in the large bundle that goes to the door controls. It's the black one 4th from the left on the top row in this pic. Trace it carefully back from the plug b/c there's more than one black one IIRC. The one you want is a little thicker.



Be sure to use the black one since it has switched power. This means the LED will be on whenever the ignition is turned on, but it’s not bright enough to be seen during the day and will do no harm being on. (Do not use the red wire next to the black one; it has constant power so it will likely drain your battery.)

Attach the Scotchlok to the black wire as shown here then plug the male connector in. You may have to cut away part of the insulation on the male connector.



7. Crimp a ring onto the ground wire of the quick disconnect and attach to a known ground. I used this 10mm bolt next to the plastic-covered hole. YMMV, but this bolt was very tough to get started on my truck. A breaker bar may be useful.



8. Connect the two halves of the quick disconnect plug, turn on the ignition, and verify the LED lights up.

9. Reassemble the door and enjoy the knowledge that you will never again have to fumble in the dark for those window and lock buttons.



(This is more yellowish than it really looks but you get the idea.)

To find the right power wire in other doors, use a circuit tester like this one from Harbor Freight.

1. Unplug the wire bundle to the door controls.
2. Attach the tester's black wire to a ground (metal body or chassis bolts are usually good).
3. With the ignition off, touch the tester's metal tip to the metal contacts in the face of the plug. If there's a red wire, try it first. When the bulb in the tester lights, you've found a constant power wire (and know the tester is working). You can eliminate this wire from consideration (unless you want constant power for whatever reason, in that case you're done).
4. Repeat step 3 with the ignition on, ignoring any constant power sources. When the tester lights, you have found a switched power source. That's the one you want for this mod.

That's it. Feel free to ask any questions or make suggestions to improve the process based on your own experience.

Last edited by Bluesky 07; 05-01-2019 at 07:14 AM.
Bluesky 07 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 05-01-2019, 06:49 AM #2
Terminator03 Terminator03 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
Posts: 844
Terminator03 has a spectacular aura about Terminator03 has a spectacular aura about Terminator03 has a spectacular aura about
Terminator03 Terminator03 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
Posts: 844
Terminator03 has a spectacular aura about Terminator03 has a spectacular aura about Terminator03 has a spectacular aura about
Nice job!
__________________
2004 black SR5 V8 4WD with TRD dual exhaust, Thorley headers, AFE dry filter, Sprint Booster, Icon 2.0 rear shocks, OME 895E springs, Fuel wheels with 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3W tires, more to come...
Terminator03 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Reply

Tags
black , door , led , quick , wire

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Need ideas: Ambient lighting for door switches loner 4th Gen T4Rs 16 02-13-2018 03:34 PM
How To Move In 17 Not So Easy Steps peter78 Off Topic 7 11-04-2014 12:34 AM
Frame Mounted Side Steps Jamobi 5th gen T4Rs 5 11-03-2014 01:51 PM
Back lighting after market switches GrantK 5th gen T4Rs 3 08-10-2014 02:38 AM
How To Get Things Done, by being a Redneck (10 Easy Steps) 4Running Daily 3rd gen T4Rs 18 12-31-2011 03:12 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:49 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Feedback Buttons provided by Advanced Post Thanks / Like (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
***This site is an unofficial Toyota site, and is not officially endorsed, supported, authorized by or affiliated with Toyota. All company, product, or service names references in this web site are used for identification purposes only and may be trademarks of their respective owners. The Toyota name, marks, designs and logos, as well as Toyota model names, are registered trademarks of Toyota Motor Corporation***Ad Management plugin by RedTyger
 
Copyright © 2019


Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.