How to Manually Release Rear Hatch with Pictures

<b style=font-size:24px;">Introduction</b>
Hello All, I wanted to show how to manually release the door hatch as it was discussed briefly on this form in the past but I could not find proper instructions with pictures. In my scenario, a friend closed the 4runner net in the hatch lock and now the hatch will not open, it makes the electronic release sound but no matter how hard I pull it will not give. It took about 30 minutes start-to-finish as there was limited information online and I suspect It should take under 30 for anybody else... each image should be clickable to open a larger version in Imgur.

There are a lot of tutorials out there on how to remove the hatch panel when the hatch is already opened but it is not as easy closed.

Hopefully this helps everyone in the future who has this problem, if anyone has any questions, please let me know!

<b style=font-size:24px;">Tools</b>

• Flathead Screwdriver
• 10mm Socket
• Socket Extension
• Trim Removal Tool (Optional)

<b style=font-size:24px;">Step 1: Accessing Rear Hatch Panel</b>

To start off you need to figure out a way to the rear hatch from the inside. I put down the rear seats and made my way to the hatch panel. Upon looking at the panel you can see there are 2 covers that need to be popped off, one is in the middle and the other is where the strap is screwed in, using the flathead pop them off.
<a href="https://imgur.com/ALut50g"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ALut50gl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Next to take off the strap you need the 10mm socket and extension and start taking that off.
<a href="https://imgur.com/Hb4KN6q"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Hb4KN6ql.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<b style=font-size:24px;">Step 2: Removing Rear Hatch Panel</b>

Now that the only bolt is taken out, the panel is held in by the same clips used on most of the panels in the car, they pull straight out but it is tricky at this angle in the car. I grabbed by the middle hole that had the cover, and yanked it back and it popped all of the clips off except the lower right corner. I continued pulling at it and it eventually came off.
<a href="https://imgur.com/3rFGhAU"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/3rFGhAUl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<b style=font-size:24px;">Step 3: Disconnecting Power</b>

Now that the panel is off, there is one connection to the motor to the right of the plastic shielding. A clip has to be lifted with a screwdriver to release it and allow to disconnect the power.
<a href="https://imgur.com/0GUHRnV"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/0GUHRnVl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<b style=font-size:24px;">Step 4: Accessing the Hatch Motor</b>

The motor is behind the plastic shielding talked about in the previous step in a white case towards the base of inside the door. If you have worked on door panels before, this is the same plastic and adhesive glue. This glue will get everywhere if you are careless. What I did was pulled it from the Right to Left, not all the way just past the motor, and rolled it on itself.

<b style=font-size:24px;">Step 5: Removing Manual Release Lever Cover</b>

Next to remove the cover is somewhat complicated as there is not much wiggle room and it only comes off one way. The good thing is that it is plastic so it does flex and you can maneuver it off incorrectly and it will not break. I disconnected the wire near it from the top of the box to give me a little more clearance. The box is made of 2 pieces, the first holding the motor assembly and the second covering the levers. To remove the smaller cover on the left you need to pinch it near where it connects and wiggle the back side (side closest to the outside) off the plastic arm and then off the arm in the front. Finally tilt it up and it can be removed. I know this might sound complicated so hopefully the pictures will help more.
<a href="https://imgur.com/M6eFGwK"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/M6eFGwKl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a><a href="https://imgur.com/Yu3ubcK"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Yu3ubcKl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a><a href="https://imgur.com/JpPMuuA"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/JpPMuuAl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/E5BhfzL"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/E5BhfzLl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


<b style=font-size:24px;">Step 6: Opening the Hatch</b>

Now you can see there are 2 levers visible. Some posts said the smaller one was the only one that needed to pushed but, in my case, it was both. This might depend on what is stuck in the latch or if it just died, but from my observations the smaller on the bottom released the electronic locking mechanism and the big one released the actual lock holding the door shut.
<a href="https://imgur.com/icxuRp1"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/icxuRp1l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


It's important the glass is up in this step as you'll need to push the hatch and don't want to risk breaking the glass. I engaged the small lever and I pushed from the closest I could get to the lock from the inside metal and it took some force but eventually the door released, then I used the big lever and it allowed me to fully open the door.
<a href="https://imgur.com/5wXLjKc"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/5wXLjKcl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Congrats! You did it, make sure you put it back together in the same order you took it apart and reconnect the power to the hatch, oh, and also make sure you get what is stuck out of the hatch lock.

I hope this helped and Let me know if you have any questions. Now I just have to make sure that never happens again and teach my friends how to close a 4th gen hatch properly.

This is good stuff! Thanks for sharing!

Lots of pics, I love seeing it. Even hosted on Imgur with LinkedBBCode, I love it!

Really nice write up, thanks for sharing!

you mean "your ex-friend"!

I attached a piece of cord on the mechanism then put the cover back on. Once the cover was on I taped the cord to the cover. I can manually pull the hatch without too much messing around if needed.

This morning I slammed the hatch shut in a normal fashion and heard something rattling. Rather than just let it rattle till something serious effed up I found this thread and ten minutes later I had the hatch cover off and found a nut that turned out to hold one of the studs for the "4runner" emblem/license plate light. 5 minutes later I was finished.

Thanks much for posting this!

Note: If you have one of those tool kits with the plastic pry bars for removing trim parts it makes this a breeze.

Reviving the thread-most helpful chrisbagnell! Excellent photos and details on each step-saving as a Mozilla favorite, just in case this ever comes up. Thanks again sir.

should this be a sticky?

Hi, I just completed all the steps and I’m at the two levers by the hatch lock but it’s not budging no matter how hard I move the levers. What direction do they need to be pushed in? I have a piece of fabric stuck inside the lock.

Dchaffin said:

Hi, I just completed all the steps and I’m at the two levers by the hatch lock but it’s not budging no matter how hard I move the levers. What direction do they need to be pushed in? I have a piece of fabric stuck inside the lock.

Click to expand...

Have someone push in on the hatch then pull the levers and then have them pull on the hatch to help toggle the catch, the fabric is probably not letting the motor move the catch.

It works!

So I've been trying to come up with a easy camping hack for my 2007 and thanks to this post I was able to knock it out within 20 minutes tonight! I just popped the panel like you said and reach down to the actuator lever and ended up using the original pull strap for the hatchback to loop through and pop a hole in the plastic weather strip notch the little plastic cover so that nothing is dragging or catching and it works perfect! Easy access with a little panel that covers back up so there won't be any accidental openings thanks a lot again for posting this!

Lever Directions

Dchaffin said:

Hi, I just completed all the steps and I’m at the two levers by the hatch lock but it’s not budging no matter how hard I move the levers. What direction do they need to be pushed in? I have a piece of fabric stuck inside the lock.

Click to expand...

To unlock:
BIG lever pushes down,
while
Little lever pushes up

popping the tailgate

Hey, even better news. You don't have to remove the tailgate trim panel to pop the tailgate. Remove the small panel in the center near the bottom. That little white plastic cover immediately below the opening comes off and there are the levers, the small one is below the larger one, push and pull. It's easier to get the panel off when the taligate's open.

That's the good news. The bad news is I can't find a hot wire in any of the harnesses or connectors in the tailgate. Time to play plug and play with relays I guess unless someone knows of a gang connector under the dash that powers the tailgate and rear lights.

Are you looking to install a backup camera? I ran a wire from the right side 12V plug under the rear floor trim plate and into the left taillight area. I ran the wires for the camera along the left side of the lift gate and through the rubber grommet and down the left side to the taillight area. Would that work for you?
(Caution: the 12V plug on the right is NOT a cigar lighter. The wires that power it are maybe AWG 22/24; very thin)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?si=Qma--pDzSgYEN2cU&t=112&v=PrtXoIWhrqE&feature=youtu.be

No, I'm trying to get the tailgate lock, window, and all lights in the rear of the rig working. All are dead after rebuilding my brake master cylinder. Making me crazy!!

Thank you, I might have to resort to that.

Thank you for making this post. Good stuff

lucky guy said:

No, I'm trying to get the tailgate lock, window, and all lights in the rear of the rig working. All are dead after rebuilding my brake master cylinder. Making me crazy!!

Thank you, I might have to resort to that.

Click to expand...

You should probably start a new thread for this issue but have you checked the rubber shield area that's at the top of the door? There could be a broken wire or two up there, caused by door opening and closing.

lucky guy said:

Hey, even better news. You don't have to remove the tailgate trim panel to pop the tailgate. Remove the small panel in the center near the bottom. That little white plastic cover immediately below the opening comes off and there are the levers, the small one is below the larger one, push and pull. It's easier to get the panel off when the taligate's open.

That's the good news. The bad news is I can't find a hot wire in any of the harnesses or connectors in the tailgate. Time to play plug and play with relays I guess unless someone knows of a gang connector under the dash that powers the tailgate and rear lights.

Click to expand...

I'm thinking you dislodged harness connector to the rear hatch. Engine bay fuse box is in the vicinity of the brake booster assembly.