09-21-2016, 08:53 PM
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#1
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BOTH brake lights not working. Anyone any ideas?
I thought I had the "crappy toyota way of connecting the tail light functions" issue where you clean the contact, add some dielectric grease and your problem is fixed.
I just spent an hour cleaning ALL the connections on my driver side tail light, made sure the wires are pushed properly all the way in. and still no brake lights.
I''m contemplating adding an additional wire to test, but can't figure out which one is the "hot" wire.
On the top lamp, I think that at 7 o'clock is ground, because it is wired in line with the blinker. Anyone know if 10 or 4 o'clock is hot for the brake light?
I can't brake and measure as I don't have a second body to help me at the moment.
Okki
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Okki's Build Thread - 2010 Limited: Shrockworks Rock Rails & Full Skids, Gobi Rack, OPT7 LED Roof LIGHT Bar, Rigid E-Series Bumper Light Bar, Hella Horns, Auxiliary Fuse Box, Cobra ST75, TRD Rims, Discoverer ATP LT265/70R17, Rotopax, ARB Twin Compressor, Cargo Area Pressure Gauge and Chuck, Icon billet trailing- and A-arms, Dobinsons Shocks/Coils, Fumuto Oil Valve, Northstar Group 31M, CBI Front & Rear Bumpers !!!
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Last edited by Okki; 09-21-2016 at 09:28 PM.
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09-21-2016, 09:26 PM
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#2
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@ Antman
or
@ rigtec
.... Any suggestions? Is there a brakelight fuse somewhere? All the other tail lamp functions are there.
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Okki's Build Thread - 2010 Limited: Shrockworks Rock Rails & Full Skids, Gobi Rack, OPT7 LED Roof LIGHT Bar, Rigid E-Series Bumper Light Bar, Hella Horns, Auxiliary Fuse Box, Cobra ST75, TRD Rims, Discoverer ATP LT265/70R17, Rotopax, ARB Twin Compressor, Cargo Area Pressure Gauge and Chuck, Icon billet trailing- and A-arms, Dobinsons Shocks/Coils, Fumuto Oil Valve, Northstar Group 31M, CBI Front & Rear Bumpers !!!
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Any time...Anywhere.. My cat can take you.
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09-21-2016, 09:32 PM
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#3
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Fuse
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2016 TEP// Non KDSS// 2.5" Icon RR Ext. Coilover with CDC// Total Chaos UCA// 2.5" RR Icon Rear shocks with CDC// Sway A Way rear coils// BFG KO2 285/70/17// Pelfreybilt Bolt on tapered kickout sliders// Method NV wheels Machined finish// Rci skids bare aluminum// Front Runner Slimline II roof rack with HI-Lift and Awning Mounts// ARB Awning// Hi-Lift Xtreme 48//Icon Rear Shock Shin Guards//Baja Designs Squadron-R Pro//Xenon Hid Headlights
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09-21-2016, 09:37 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Okki
I thought I had the "crappy toyota way of connecting the tail light functions" issue where you clean the contact, add some dielectric grease and your problem is fixed.
I just spent an hour cleaning ALL the connections on my driver side tail light, made sure the wires are pushed properly all the way in. and still no brake lights.
I''m contemplating adding an additional wire to test, but can't figure out which one is the "hot" wire.
On the top lamp, I think that at 7 o'clock is ground, because it is wired in line with the blinker. Anyone know if 10 or 4 o'clock is hot for the brake light?
I can't brake and measure as I don't have a second body to help me at the moment.
Okki |
Oh my... what have you been up to Mr Okki lol! Let me go and check what we've got here... be back in a few with some Essential tools!
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Commercial hvac diagnostics/electrical specialist (Steamfitters Journeyman Local 475)
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09-21-2016, 09:43 PM
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#5
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Black /White wire is ground, blue is stop light in the harness that connected to light assembly.
You can use a some chunk of wood (2x4) or somthing in between brake pedal and front seat, then move seat forward to push brake pedal ( to replace second person)..
Is the center (back door) stoplight working ??
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09-21-2016, 09:44 PM
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#6
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I'm not an electrical guy. With that said it's either a fuse or both bulbs need replaced...
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09-21-2016, 09:45 PM
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#7
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Got the driver side working. Will do the passenger side tomorrow and take more pics. Tweaked the contacts some more and that seems to have been the fix.
Pain in the ass problem because it's hard to do by your self (the verification) and too many fiddly bits that you can't really check.
Anyway, at least one is back on!
Okki
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Okki's Build Thread - 2010 Limited: Shrockworks Rock Rails & Full Skids, Gobi Rack, OPT7 LED Roof LIGHT Bar, Rigid E-Series Bumper Light Bar, Hella Horns, Auxiliary Fuse Box, Cobra ST75, TRD Rims, Discoverer ATP LT265/70R17, Rotopax, ARB Twin Compressor, Cargo Area Pressure Gauge and Chuck, Icon billet trailing- and A-arms, Dobinsons Shocks/Coils, Fumuto Oil Valve, Northstar Group 31M, CBI Front & Rear Bumpers !!!
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Any time...Anywhere.. My cat can take you.
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09-21-2016, 09:47 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GzTEP
Fuse
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LOL.. Yeah Thanks.. That's the question I was asking... And you do not go to round 2 as it was not the correct answer 
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Okki's Build Thread - 2010 Limited: Shrockworks Rock Rails & Full Skids, Gobi Rack, OPT7 LED Roof LIGHT Bar, Rigid E-Series Bumper Light Bar, Hella Horns, Auxiliary Fuse Box, Cobra ST75, TRD Rims, Discoverer ATP LT265/70R17, Rotopax, ARB Twin Compressor, Cargo Area Pressure Gauge and Chuck, Icon billet trailing- and A-arms, Dobinsons Shocks/Coils, Fumuto Oil Valve, Northstar Group 31M, CBI Front & Rear Bumpers !!!
========================================
Any time...Anywhere.. My cat can take you.
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09-21-2016, 09:49 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LXRunner
Black /White wire is ground, blue is stop light in the harness that connected to light assembly.
You can use a some chunk of wood (2x4) or somthing in between brake pedal and front seat, then move seat forward to push brake pedal ( to replace second person)..
Is the center (back door) stoplight working ??
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Yeah, the center hatch was working just fine. It's the 6 year itch issue in the corner lamps themselves. More details tomorrow when I get home and do the passenger side. Adding a detailed write up to my maintenance section in my build thread as well.
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Okki's Build Thread - 2010 Limited: Shrockworks Rock Rails & Full Skids, Gobi Rack, OPT7 LED Roof LIGHT Bar, Rigid E-Series Bumper Light Bar, Hella Horns, Auxiliary Fuse Box, Cobra ST75, TRD Rims, Discoverer ATP LT265/70R17, Rotopax, ARB Twin Compressor, Cargo Area Pressure Gauge and Chuck, Icon billet trailing- and A-arms, Dobinsons Shocks/Coils, Fumuto Oil Valve, Northstar Group 31M, CBI Front & Rear Bumpers !!!
========================================
Any time...Anywhere.. My cat can take you.
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09-21-2016, 09:50 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2012
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EDIT: Okay,
The Blue wire (Tail light assm) is Brake light HOT, White/Blk is Ground (Both sides)!
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Last edited by rigtec; 09-21-2016 at 10:30 PM.
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09-21-2016, 09:51 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1engineer
I'm not an electrical guy. With that said it's either a fuse or both bulbs need replaced...
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Bulbs checked out fine upon visual inspection. It was a contact-to-contact issue with the bulb holder and the main body.
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Okki's Build Thread - 2010 Limited: Shrockworks Rock Rails & Full Skids, Gobi Rack, OPT7 LED Roof LIGHT Bar, Rigid E-Series Bumper Light Bar, Hella Horns, Auxiliary Fuse Box, Cobra ST75, TRD Rims, Discoverer ATP LT265/70R17, Rotopax, ARB Twin Compressor, Cargo Area Pressure Gauge and Chuck, Icon billet trailing- and A-arms, Dobinsons Shocks/Coils, Fumuto Oil Valve, Northstar Group 31M, CBI Front & Rear Bumpers !!!
========================================
Any time...Anywhere.. My cat can take you.
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09-21-2016, 09:54 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2012
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Dam... you guys are fast, or I'm really slow lol! Here's the diagram:
Stop light is at the bottom! Just ignore the RED arrow; that was for someone else's trouble... didn't want to print again!
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09-21-2016, 09:55 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigtec
Okay,
Does the /Center Stop Light Assm' work when you hit the brake pedal? If not, there's a 10A Tail fuse in the 'Driverside relay/fusebox'; check for power at that fuse before we go nuts testing the tail lamp contacts... BTW: The Blue wire (Tail light assm) is Brake light HOT, White/Blk is Ground (Both sides)!
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Mucho Gracias! The plug info is nice, but I couldn't tell which wire in the plug went to which wire on the body (via the copper contacts)
I tested both paths with a second wire and got nothing. So power was going to the bulb holder, but not to the bulb. (or it was a larger issue elsewhere).
The copper contact were the issue it seems.
Thanks for the assistance though!
Okki
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Okki's Build Thread - 2010 Limited: Shrockworks Rock Rails & Full Skids, Gobi Rack, OPT7 LED Roof LIGHT Bar, Rigid E-Series Bumper Light Bar, Hella Horns, Auxiliary Fuse Box, Cobra ST75, TRD Rims, Discoverer ATP LT265/70R17, Rotopax, ARB Twin Compressor, Cargo Area Pressure Gauge and Chuck, Icon billet trailing- and A-arms, Dobinsons Shocks/Coils, Fumuto Oil Valve, Northstar Group 31M, CBI Front & Rear Bumpers !!!
========================================
Any time...Anywhere.. My cat can take you.
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09-21-2016, 10:38 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Okki
Mucho Gracias! The plug info is nice, but I couldn't tell which wire in the plug went to which wire on the body (via the copper contacts)
I tested both paths with a second wire and got nothing. So power was going to the bulb holder, but not to the bulb. (or it was a larger issue elsewhere).
The copper contact were the issue it seems.
Thanks for the assistance though!
Okki
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Well...I was at work, so....Looks like you got this now. 
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09-21-2016, 10:38 PM
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#15
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No problem Paul! I needed to EDIT my previous statement (post #10) due to an error. The STOP Light fuse is in the MAIN Relay/Fusebox under the hood labeled Stop fuse 10A! (...not in the D/S fusebox; sorry you already quoted the error!)
rig, Cheers!
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Last edited by rigtec; 09-21-2016 at 10:41 PM.
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