BOTH brake lights not working. Anyone any ideas?

O

Okki

New member
I thought I had the "crappy toyota way of connecting the tail light functions" issue where you clean the contact, add some dielectric grease and your problem is fixed.

I just spent an hour cleaning ALL the connections on my driver side tail light, made sure the wires are pushed properly all the way in. and still no brake lights.

I''m contemplating adding an additional wire to test, but can't figure out which one is the "hot" wire.
29216716754_3d5c465147_b.jpg


On the top lamp, I think that at 7 o'clock is ground, because it is wired in line with the blinker. Anyone know if 10 or 4 o'clock is hot for the brake light?

I can't brake and measure as I don't have a second body to help me at the moment.

Okki
 
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[MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] or [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION].... Any suggestions? Is there a brakelight fuse somewhere? All the other tail lamp functions are there.
 
Okki said:
I thought I had the "crappy toyota way of connecting the tail light functions" issue where you clean the contact, add some dielectric grease and your problem is fixed.

I just spent an hour cleaning ALL the connections on my driver side tail light, made sure the wires are pushed properly all the way in. and still no brake lights.

I''m contemplating adding an additional wire to test, but can't figure out which one is the "hot" wire.
29216716754_3d5c465147_b.jpg


On the top lamp, I think that at 7 o'clock is ground, because it is wired in line with the blinker. Anyone know if 10 or 4 o'clock is hot for the brake light?

I can't brake and measure as I don't have a second body to help me at the moment.

Okki
Click to expand...

Oh my... what have you been up to Mr Okki lol! Let me go and check what we've got here... be back in a few with some Essential tools!
 
Black /White wire is ground, blue is stop light in the harness that connected to light assembly.

You can use a some chunk of wood (2x4) or somthing in between brake pedal and front seat, then move seat forward to push brake pedal ( to replace second person)..

Is the center (back door) stoplight working ??
 
Got the driver side working. Will do the passenger side tomorrow and take more pics. Tweaked the contacts some more and that seems to have been the fix.

Pain in the ass problem because it's hard to do by your self (the verification) and too many fiddly bits that you can't really check.

Anyway, at least one is back on!

Okki
 
LXRunner said:
Black /White wire is ground, blue is stop light in the harness that connected to light assembly.

You can use a some chunk of wood (2x4) or somthing in between brake pedal and front seat, then move seat forward to push brake pedal ( to replace second person)..

Is the center (back door) stoplight working ??
Click to expand...


Yeah, the center hatch was working just fine. It's the 6 year itch issue in the corner lamps themselves. More details tomorrow when I get home and do the passenger side. Adding a detailed write up to my maintenance section in my build thread as well.
 
EDIT: Okay,

The Blue wire (Tail light assm) is Brake light HOT, White/Blk is Ground (Both sides)!
 
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Dam... you guys are fast, or I'm really slow lol! Here's the diagram:



Stop light is at the bottom! Just ignore the RED arrow; that was for someone else's trouble... didn't want to print again!
 
rigtec said:
Okay,

Does the /Center Stop Light Assm' work when you hit the brake pedal? If not, there's a 10A Tail fuse in the 'Driverside relay/fusebox'; check for power at that fuse before we go nuts testing the tail lamp contacts... BTW: The Blue wire (Tail light assm) is Brake light HOT, White/Blk is Ground (Both sides)!
Click to expand...

Mucho Gracias! The plug info is nice, but I couldn't tell which wire in the plug went to which wire on the body (via the copper contacts)

I tested both paths with a second wire and got nothing. So power was going to the bulb holder, but not to the bulb. (or it was a larger issue elsewhere).

The copper contact were the issue it seems.

Thanks for the assistance though!
Okki
 
Okki said:
Mucho Gracias! The plug info is nice, but I couldn't tell which wire in the plug went to which wire on the body (via the copper contacts)

I tested both paths with a second wire and got nothing. So power was going to the bulb holder, but not to the bulb. (or it was a larger issue elsewhere).

The copper contact were the issue it seems.

Thanks for the assistance though!
Okki
Click to expand...

Well...I was at work, so....Looks like you got this now.:bolt:
 
No problem Paul! I needed to EDIT my previous statement (post #10) due to an error. The STOP Light fuse is in the MAIN Relay/Fusebox under the hood labeled Stop fuse 10A! (...not in the D/S fusebox; sorry you already quoted the error!)

rig, Cheers!
 
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Resurrecting this thread because I'm having a similar issue but slightly different. Both my break lights were not coming on. I changed both bulbs with HID's, the passenger side break light now comes on when i break but not the driver side.

Regular lights are on though, just fine.

Luckily the LEDs have multiple lines of bulbs that come one when breaking. So i know that I'm getting power to both but one is not lighting up when pressing on the breaks. Happens when the car is on or off so it's not the alternator.

Driver side
p2254158450-4.jpg


Passenger sider
p2254158433-4.jpg


W T F??!
 
A VOM (volt ohm meter) with a couple of long leads with alligator clips make troubleshooting much easier. You can make your own leads pretty easily and meters are pretty cheap these days. You don't need a $400 Fluke 87. I use an old $35 Craftsman meter I've had for probably 20 years.
 
Similar with my 2010.
The drivers brake light didn't work ... then fixed.
The passengers brake light didn't work, try adjusting the contacts. Something was loose. Eventually, changed the socket and no problems since.
 
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