Best lift or spacer kit for mainly urban driving with a little off roading

jb24dolphins

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I wish I had the money for an Icon stage 7 with billet UCA's, but unfortunately I don't have the budget for that. Should I go with a spacer kit or Bilstein 5100s with a cornfed spacer in the rear. I am going to eventually go to a 275 A/T tire once the idea of spending another 1k or so on tires doesn't piss the wife off. Should I do a leveling/spacer kit, go for the Bilsteins at 2.5 up front and a 1.5 cornfed in the rear or just keep saving for a full suspension lift with UCAs. Like I said in the subject I live in the DC area and 95% of the truck's life is on the pacement, and I don't get off road too much except for playing in some mud, not many rock climbs or trails out this way. I would like it to handle like the factory ride if possible, just want her leveled out...
 
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If you just want it leveled out get 5100s for the front on the first setting

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I went with spacers since my 4Runner will spend most of its life on pavement with the occasional trail ride out to shoot guns and trips to the mountains during winter time. Spacers will give me the look im trying to achieve and fit better into my budget. Also I was able to take a ride in a 4Runner with the spacers and it rides really well.
 
I wish I had the money for an Icon stage 7 with billet UCA's, but unfortunately I don't have the budget for that. Should I go with a spacer kit or Bilstein 5100s with a cornfed spacer in the rear. I am going to eventually go to a 275 A/T tire once the idea of spending another 1k or so on tires doesn't piss the wife off. Should I do a leveling/spacer kit, go for the Bilsteins at 2.5 up front and a 1.5 cornfed in the rear or just keep saving for a full suspension lift with UCAs. Like I said in the subject I live in the DC area and 95% of the truck's life is on the pacement, and I don't get off road too much except for playing in some mud, not many rock climbs or trails out this way. I would like it to handle like the factory ride if possible, just want her leveled out...

Well so here is the low down:

If you plan to lift 3 inches in the front, which is what i assume you are going for with a spacer or with 5100s set at 2.5, you are pretty much going to need UCAs. There is no way around it, to get in spec and everything, that basically necessary. you can get by for a short time if the money isn't there just yet... but throughout the forums it is HIGHLY recommended.
Now since you don't do much off roading a spacer will be fine, but keep in mind you are pushing the entire coil over down, which means if you over flex, your front suspension has the ability to over flex potentially messing up your CV joints, and also puts a lot of stress on your ball joints because they pretty much become the limiting stops in this case. this means that when you hit a speed bump way too hard and launch your front end up (doesn't have to be airborn) your suspension will bottom out potentially breaking things. this also means that the limiting factor for up travel is now the shock rod hitting the top of the shock body, which is also not good and could cause damage. You just have to be aware. the rear is much more forgiving because of the fact that it is a solid axle. spacers are generally fine in the rear, unless you plan to load your rear up or you would prefer a stiffer spring for on road riding.

Of course, the #1 piece of advice is always, save up and get a decent set of coil overs with new UCAs and you wont regret it, but the truth is a lot of people just can't justify dropping $1500-4000 on suspension. This being said, it is much safer to go with this suspension as they are specifically designed to work with our trucks.

As for handling:
Spacers keep the stock everything, so theoretically your ride will not change at all with only a shock TOP spacer. if you get something like the Toytec spacer, you must disassemble the strut and insert a spacer which will somewhat change how the spring reacts. Same goes with the Rear, a spacer just pushes everything up, not really affecting how the stock spring rides.

As far as new coil overs or shocks (FOX, King, Bilstein, OME, IVD, etc.) the ride quality will almost certainly be different than stock, some think worse, some think better, thats all dependent on how you like the ride and which kit you get.

Hope this helps.
 
I'm looking at similar options and through my research I basically found what Tlowe said above. With 2.5" up front, UCAs are highly recommended (though not always necessary). If money is a concern, which it sounds like it is, you might be better off just leveling with 5100s and save for UCAs and new springs or a spacer for the back.
 
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1" rear Cornfed's with front biltsteins @ 1.75 with spidertrax spacers handle as near perfect I could ask of my DD. May go up a bit once I get new shoes but even with stock tires the ride is nice with my setup. Toyota should have made them all this way from factory. Imo
 
I went with the 2.5/1.5 Daystar spacers. 90% on road and 10-15% off road. I too couldn't justify the cost for a full on suspension upgrade. It easily fit the 275's, looks great and raised the vehicle enough to clear the obstacles off road where I wheel and the trails I'm willing to hit.


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1" rear Cornfed's with front biltsteins @ 1.75 with spidertrax spacers handle as near perfect I could ask of my DD. May go up a bit once I get new shoes but even with stock tires the ride is nice with my setup. Toyota should have made them all this way from factory. Imo

Did you upgrade the rear shocks?
 
I actually haven't installed the rear biltsteins yet. The 1" cornfeds havent "bottomed out" on the stock shocks at all. Course I haven't been doing any off-road either. I'll change them eventually. For now no need with the new stock shocks on and rides great. Spidertrax really give you that planted feeling on the road
 

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Well so here is the low down:

since you don't do much off roading a spacer will be fine, but keep in mind you are pushing the entire coil over down, which means if you over flex, your front suspension has the ability to over flex potentially messing up your CV joints, and also puts a lot of stress on your ball joints because they pretty much become the limiting stops in this case. this means that when you hit a speed bump way too hard and launch your front end up (doesn't have to be airborn) your suspension will bottom out potentially breaking things. this also means that the limiting factor for up travel is now the shock rod hitting the top of the shock body, which is also not good and could cause damage.

This is not really true. There are two types of spacers. A top hat spacer and a coil spacer. Most people talking about a spacer lift are referring to a coil spacer, which only changes the pre-load of the strut. You can run a small top hat spacer on the strut, but we are talking 1/2" lift via a 1/4" spacer at max....

If I was considering a spacer lift.. I would probably throw 5100s on the front at the same time, since the labor is equivalent.
 
This is not really true. There are two types of spacers. A top hat spacer and a coil spacer. Most people talking about a spacer lift are referring to a coil spacer, which only changes the pre-load of the strut. You can run a small top hat spacer on the strut, but we are talking 1/2" lift via a 1/4" spacer at max....

If I was considering a spacer lift.. I would probably throw 5100s on the front at the same time, since the labor is equivalent.

I said that right here.

Spacers keep the stock everything, so theoretically your ride will not change at all with only a shock TOP spacer. if you get something like the Toytec spacer, you must disassemble the strut and insert a spacer which will somewhat change how the spring reacts. Same goes with the Rear, a spacer just pushes everything up, not really affecting how the stock spring rides.
 
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I'm at the opposite end of the spectrum from an Icon stage 7 with Billet UCAs.

I wish I had the money for an Icon stage 7 with billet UCA's, but unfortunately I don't have the budget for that. Should I go with a spacer kit or Bilstein 5100s with a cornfed spacer in the rear. I am going to eventually go to a 275 A/T tire once the idea of spending another 1k or so on tires doesn't piss the wife off. Should I do a leveling/spacer kit, go for the Bilsteins at 2.5 up front and a 1.5 cornfed in the rear or just keep saving for a full suspension lift with UCAs. Like I said in the subject I live in the DC area and 95% of the truck's life is on the pacement, and I don't get off road too much except for playing in some mud, not many rock climbs or trails out this way. I would like it to handle like the factory ride if possible, just want her leveled out...
T4R - January 2017 - The Dog Hunts.jpg
But the dog damn sure hunts. Over 99% of my driving is city and highway. I bought the T4R to get to my property which is a 840 mile round trip. My set -up is listed below and the ride is better than stock in my opinion. I went with a 2.0" Cornfed in the rear because of all the gear I carry when I go to the woods. I believe the UCAs are a must if you're going 2.5 or more up front. Good luck Brother.
 

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But the dog damn sure hunts. Over 99% of my driving is city and highway. I bought the T4R to get to my property which is a 840 mile round trip. My set -up is listed below and the ride is better than stock in my opinion. I went with a 2.0" Cornfed in the rear because of all the gear I carry when I go to the woods. I believe the UCAs are a must if you're going 2.5 or more up front. Good luck Brother.

Do you think UCA's are needed for a 2.5inch toytec leveling kit?
 
Ready lift 3" with Bilstein 5100

I was thinking about doing a ready lift 3" leveling kit with the Bilstein 5100 what do you guys think about that setup?
 
Do you think UCA's are needed for a 2.5inch toytec leveling kit?
You will never get a clear back or white answer on this.

Peoples perceptions are different. It's not required..., but most people eventually go that direction. It depends on tires, ride height, you, and the trucks unique alignment quirks from the factory.

The alignment will suffer with a lift. Not in terms of tire wear.. but in how much caster angle there is. The low caster will make the truck feel like it wants to wander.... The aftermarket UCAs correct this by moving the upper ball towards the rear to compensate for the lift and improve caster angles.

I had a lift on for quite a while with stock UCAs and BFG KOs and it felt adequate. I changed tire brands and it started to really bother me... and felt the need to put the UCAs on. I've made many changes since...

You really just have to try it and see for yourself... The same answer does not work for everyone..
 
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I was thinking about doing a ready lift 3" leveling kit with the Bilstein 5100 what do you guys think about that setup?

This is mine with the Readylift 3". It's more like 1" rear/2.5" front but it rides great, provides the look I want and did not require UCAs. This is sitting on 285/70R17 rubber
 

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Do you think UCA's are needed for a 2.5inch toytec leveling kit?
I'm not the expert, but based on the multitude of opinions on this forum you should add the UCAs if you're going 2.5" up front. I can say that my alignment is right on and the drive at highway speeds is excellent. In my opinion, mission accomplished and worth the cost.
 

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