When to change the brake rotors

Just got back from a dealer oil change and they said I need new front rotors, resurfaced rear rotors with all new pads.

I can understand the pads, but I'm not sure about the rotors.

My current rotors barely have any lip on them, they are still smooth, and upon hard braking, nothing vibrates which leads me to assume they are not warped. I'm guessing since they don't really have any lip on them there is still plenty of life left in the rotor.

When it comes to stock parts (no performance upgrades) when do you guys change your rotors and why?

first off there is a min thickness for all rotors and in a perfect world every time you do a disk brake job you should machine your rotors..But I never do and I have no problems.Now saying all that , did they tell you the rotors are worn pass min thickness so they cant be cut /machined ? Did they show you the surface of the rotor ,sometimes you need to machine them because the surface is so bad you would never put new pads on with bad /shot rotor surfaces, but the rotor still has good thickness. They should give you a "reason" other then you need new rotors.

wbstru said:

first off there is a min thickness for all rotors and in a perfect world every time you do a disk brake job you should machine your rotors..But I never do and I have no problems.Now saying all that , did they tell you the rotors are worn pass min thickness so they cant be cut /machined ? Did they show you the surface of the rotor ,sometimes you need to machine them because the surface is so bad you would never put new pads on with bad /shot rotor surfaces, but the rotor still has good thickness. They should give you a "reason" other then you need new rotors.

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Absolutely agree. I didn't get the chance to ask them but I'll call later.

I'm going to be changing the brake pads this Saturday myself and I will be measuring the rotors during that process to determine if they are thick enough or not.

I figure that since there is minimal to no lip, there is still enough material for the rotor to be used. If there were a large lip, that would indicate a thin rotor.

alext72888 said:

Absolutely agree. I didn't get the chance to ask them but I'll call later.

I'm going to be changing the brake pads this Saturday myself and I will be measuring the rotors during that process to determine if they are thick enough or not.

I figure that since there is minimal to no lip, there is still enough material for the rotor to be used. If there were a large lip, that would indicate a thin rotor.

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[MENTION=124560]alext72888[/MENTION] I got the same speech from my state inspection guy. "You need new rotors and pads all around". Part of me feels like the shop where I got the inspection is fishing for some work. I rotated my tires when I changed my oil and I looked at the pads. I agree with the State inspection guy. New pads are in order, but those rotors looked fine. I have no warp or wheel shake under heavy breaking and there was zero lip on the rotor.

Guess I need to take some measurements as well!

wbstru said:

first off there is a min thickness for all rotors and in a perfect world every time you do a disk brake job you should machine your rotors..But I never do and I have no problems.Now saying all that , did they tell you the rotors are worn pass min thickness so they cant be cut /machined ? Did they show you the surface of the rotor ,sometimes you need to machine them because the surface is so bad you would never put new pads on with bad /shot rotor surfaces, but the rotor still has good thickness. They should give you a "reason" other then you need new rotors.

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Ditto this. Standard practice is to pull them and have them machined flat again. At that point the shop should check the thickness. If they are still above the minimum standard, you are good to go add new pads and re-assemble. If they are too thin, then replace them with new ones.

That being said, the first set of new pads can almost always go right on the old rotors without doing either. As long as the rotors are not scratched up and heavily grooved, I've never turned or replaced them on the first pad change.

On the 3rd + set of pads and I am more likely to machine and/or replace rotors.

you cant always tell by looking. a "small" lip could mean different things to different people. also, you only get about 2-3mm between new and discard thickness. that isn't very much. a small lip could easily use that up.

though typically, if its still on the first set of brakes, and the rotors don't have grooves or gouges, or not much lip, they are OK to be turned and reused.

be aware, sometimes the pad meets the edge of the rotor and it will NEVER develop a lip. so you cant always go by that...

Here are the specs from Toyota:

Front brakes - every 5k or 6 mo for visual; every 30k or 36 mo for measurements

Torque specs:
Brake caliper mounting bolts - 137 lb-ft (19mm)

Service Specs:
Pad min thickness: 1.0 mm
Rotor min thickness: 29.0 mm
Max rotor runout: 0.05 mm

Parts:
Rotors - Toyota part # 43512-60191
Pads - Toyota part # 04465-60320

Tips:
1) Measure runout 10 mm from outer edge of rotor; rotor should be installed with all 6 lug nuts torqued to 82 lb-ft when checking
2) If runout > max, check bearing play and axle hub runout normal before replacing rotors
3) If rotor stuck on hub, use an M8-1.25 bolt in holes on rotors to break it free
4) Install new rotors in position with least amount of runout
5) DIY thread
6) Paul's Travel Pictures DIY


Rear brakes - every 5k or 6 mo for visual; every 30k or 36 mo for measurements

Torque specs:
Brake caliper mounting bolts: 74 lb-ft (17mm)
Brake caliper slide pins: 65 lb-ft (17mm)

Service specs:
Pad min thickness: 1.0 mm
Rotor min thickness: 16.0 mm
Max rotor runout: 0.20 mm

Parts:
Rotors - Toyota part # 42431-60311
Pads - Toyota part # 04466-60140

Tips:
1) Measure runout 10 mm from outer edge of rotor; rotor should be installed with all 6 lug nuts torqued to 82 lb-ft when checking
2) If runout > max, check rear axle shaft before adusting/replacing rotors
3) If rotor stuck on hub, use an M8-1.25 bolt in holes on rotors to break it free
4) Install new rotors in position with least amount of runout
5) DIY thread
6) Paul's Travel Pictures DIY

I had a bad experience with O'Reily Auto turning my 4Runner rotors not long ago. After that I did some research. I found a Ford training manual on brakes.

There is no reason to turn the rotors, unless there is substantial grooving or shaking when you hit the brakes. The turning process is to remove the build-up of old brake material from the rotor.

If the rotors are not grooved, you can use sand paper and sand them to get rid of the old buildup and get a better surface for the new pads to bite into.

Also, like was already posted, follow the OE spec for minimum thickness. I wouldn't put much on the lip. Just get a caliper and measure. The minimum thickness will also be stamped on the rotor hat.

FYI, I won't be turning rotors unless absolutely necessary any longer (assuming they are not too thin).

Drewfus_'13Limited said:

I had a bad experience with O'Reily Auto turning my 4Runner rotors not long ago. After that I did some research. I found a Ford training manual on brakes.

There is no reason to turn the rotors, unless there is substantial grooving or shaking when you hit the brakes. The turning process is to remove the build-up of old brake material from the rotor.

If the rotors are not grooved, you can use sand paper and sand them to get rid of the old buildup and get a better surface for the new pads to bite into.

Also, like was already posted, follow the OE spec for minimum thickness. I wouldn't put much on the lip. Just get a caliper and measure. The minimum thickness will also be stamped on the rotor hat.

FYI, I won't be turning rotors unless absolutely necessary any longer (assuming they are not too thin).

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I strongly recommend against that.

sanding the rotors may very well remove the friction material, but it wont get the rotor true and straight. often times when the pads wear into the rotors they create high/low spots. you cant see them, but they show up when being resurfaced.

if the rotors really are close to true(as you suspect), then very little would need removed during the resurface, but at least then you are certain to have flat and true rotors. it helps to get long, trouble free service out of the new pads.

On my other car the stock rear brakes lasted 96,000 miles so I just threw in new rotors with new pads because I’m probably not going to change it again so why not. My front pads are still plenty good but when they go bad I’ll just throw on new rotors too. I’ve always used new rotors with pads on the front brakes of my motorcycle too.

It seems that the 4Runner will eat through brakes a lot more so resurfacing might not be a bad idea. What does that usually cost anyways?

I charge $12.50 for slip-on rotors like ours, and $15 for bearing style. typically ends up being MUCH cheaper than new rotors.

I did not have a vibration issue when front pads needed to be replaced. Rotor run out and thickness was within spec (I have machinist tools), so I bought genuine Toyota pads, installed them and was a bit surprised to observe a vibration issue while braking. (OEM style wheels and tires.)

Inspected rotors again, run out still within spec, except for a very small "ridge" of unworn material at the inner most edge of the braking surface. Perhaps the new pads touched that ridge or perhaps it was something else not readily visible. (No history of hard braking or towing, surface appearance uniform, grooving not visible by eye and rotor surface appearance uniform.)

I installed a new set of genuine Toyota rotors and vibration went away. I'll have the old rotors machined and ready to install when new front pads need to be replaced. This will be the first time in 50+ years that I've kept an extra set of machined front rotors on hand so that I don't have to redo a brake job or stop halfway and leave to have the rotors machined. (Brush off rust and use a torque wrench on lug nuts if you have one.)

Some threads on this:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/94464-when-change-your-rotors.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/225547-rotor-resurface-needed.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/maint...-replace-front-rotors-after-30-000-miles.html

Did you take the rotors off to inspect them, or did you just see the small lip on the outside edge? I live in MA, and at 55K miles my rotors were toast....all four.

The only reason why I looked at them was a sound that was like rotor lip rubbing on brake parts. Outside surface looked fine, inside was FUBAR. The pins that hold the front pads in were toast, and I had to use a pneumatic chisel to get them out...and a cutting wheel. Best guess is the winter salt froze the inner pads in place, and the outer pads and rears were doing all the work. Since you live in CT you could have the same issue.

I am going to pull all 4 pads every spring and clean things up and put brake grease where it should be.

Front Rotors replaced

I bought my 2015 SR5 Premium with 70,000 miles.
I’ve now got 84,100.
About 2 months ago, I started noticing a heavy vibration on hard braking on the highway. Coincidentally, right about the time I’d swapped my Winter Factory Rims/Wheels for my Summer Rims and Wheels.

I shopped on eBay and found new FACTORY rotors from Spitzer Toyota Parts for $135.42 and TRD pads for $89 from North Hills Toyota Scion PGH

My mechanic charged me $60 and used proper Torque Wrench settings.

Drives like new.

For me, it was CHEAP insurance to just get NEW OEM ROTORS and UPGRADED PADS INSTALLED for $284.42

Brake info

I've been doing brakes since high school. It doesn't hurt that my dad is/was a mechanic before he retired. Brakes are actually quite easy if you aren't even the least bit mechanically inclined. On disk brakes it's 2 bolts (17mm) to pull the caliper off, a C-clamp to squeeze the pistons back, swap out the pads and reassemble. On the front there are 2 more bolts (12mm &10mm) you can undo to give you a little more break line length to make working on the calipers easier. Then unhook the sensor wire and you are good to go. On the back there isn't a lot of extra line length but you can get the job done easy enough. No extra bolts, no need to unhook the sensor wires.

I just replaced the front and rear brake pads about 3-4 months ago. Did nothing with the rotors. 92264 miles on the original pads and rotors. No stuck pistons either. No broken pins or keepers.

Not bad. I still had room left before any scraping so I could have easily gotten another 2-3k out of them, but decided to be better safe than sorry.

It took me less than 1 hour per wheel, really quick and easy. It was more like 40 minutes per side on the front, 1/2 hour per side for the rear. Three hours tops to do all four. Even had I replaced the rotors it would have taken zero extra time.

Parts used for my 2011 TE:
04465-60320 Front Brake pad set $42.12
04466-60140 Rear Brake pad set $44.85

There was no need to buy rotors, shim kits, new springs or anything but the pads. You always just re-use all the old gear. Only change to that would be if the rotors were scraped/warped beyond repair or you lost a pin, shim or spring.

I ordered the pads from trdparts.com, but they gave me extremely crappy service, so I wouldn't recommend them even if you save a few bucks. It's not worth that hassle.

They are actually about $3 cheaper from here McGeorge Toyota However not sure on shipping cost.

There's a great post here with all the part numbers

Just in case that post goes away:

Brake Parts
Front Rotor 43512-60191
Front Brake Pads 04465-60320
Front Shim Kit: 04945-60090
Front Caliper Pins: 47735-60300
Front Caliper Pin hold (Spring): 47743-60280
Front Caliper Springs (fitting kit): 04947-35050
Front Anti-Rattle Spring: 47748-35010 (not needed if using fitting kit?)

Rear Rotor 42431-60311
Rear Brake Pads 04466-60140
Rear Shim Kit: 04946-60141 / 04946-60140
Rear Caliper Fitting kit: 04947-22050

I Did Not Use these kits (Local Dealer quoted me these - they are more $$ with unneeded parts included)
Front Brake kit: 04465-AZ001-TM
Rear Brake kit: 04466-AZ004-TM

Here are some generic brake parts kits, that you should NOT need need either, but just in case.
Carlson 13600 Front Brake Disc Hardware Kit
ACDelco Hardware kits Front: 18K2113X
Rear: 18K822X

So, in all $87 and 3 hours of my labor.

Since then, I just hit 99k on it, no issues, no wobble while braking, no shimmy. I just stomped on it today and had to skid to avoid some idiot at the stoplight. Smooth as glass straight as an arrow, it didn't even pull one way or the other.

^^^ I could have written this exact post. 2011 SR5...90K miles. I recently did pads front and rear and all 4 rotors still measured within spec. Cheap and super easy...drives like new. Amazing brake durability on these vehicles (aside from the nose-dive weight transfer resulting in front-end grab).

JA

New OEM rotors are $58..... Why screw around? Just get new ones when you change the pads. You're talking once every 75k miles roughly.

Does anyone know if TRD brake pads better than non-trd (stock) ? Does it make a difference ?

mileage is not a good gauge for rotor replacement.. measure the runoff with some common household tools..

take one of these:

https://images.homedepot-static.com...scent-adjustable-wrenches-ac210vs-64_1000.jpg

PLUS

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/718Cmlp0kXL._SX679_.jpg

-take off wheel
-clamp down adjustable wrench
-slide adjustable wrench off rotor and measure w/ ruler

OR

if you have measuring caliper then even better

to be honest your service guy was just trying to make a quick buck off you. If your caliper needs replacement then its just a simple 2 extra steps more than a brake pad change