Brake pad and rotor replacement that I recommend....

Texas_Ranger

Texas_Ranger

New member
I replaced my rotors and pads 2 weeks ago and wanted to share my experience with my choices and results. I purchased AKEBONO pads all around and Centric Premium rotors. These have made a world of difference in comparison to stock pads and rotors. The brakes have a nice bite to them and have very consistent braking pressure while increasing brake pedal pressure. The stock brakes felt that they were soft with a 20% to 50% brake pedal push. So if your changing them, these worked wonders. These were from rock auto.com
 
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Has anyone posted a how to that includes the torque settings for the caliper bolts? Assuming there are caliper bolts since my other 4Runner had them.
 
Brake bolt torques for a 2010 4Runner: Front caliper bolt 91 ft-lbs. Rear caliper bolt 77 ft-lbs. Rear cylinder slide pin 65 ft-lbs.
 
Are the brake lines on a 10 different than the 14+ models? Is a steel brake line replacement for a 10 one way to help resolve the squishy feel? I remember reading that someplace but cant find for reference.
 
Texas_Ranger said:
I replaced my rotors and pads 2 weeks ago and wanted to share my experience with my choices and results. I purchased AKEBONO pads all around and Centric Premium rotors. These have made a world of difference in comparison to stock pads and rotors. The brakes have a nice bite to them and have very consistent braking pressure while increasing brake pedal pressure. The stock brakes felt that they were soft with a 20% to 50% brake pedal push. So if your changing them, these worked wonders. These were from rock auto.com
Click to expand...

I 2nd this - I put Akebono pads on and it was a noticeable improvement in brake feel. You can find them at an Napa auto parts store. Was real careful with the ABS wire, but damn those things are fragile. No dummy lights but my OBDII Carista app showed an error. Took about a month before ABS light came on though.
 
I am looking at rockauto and I see 5 Akebono pads, which ones should I buy?
The prices are fairly close.
I drive 2011 SRV

Also, how long do your pads last?

My originals were good for about 90K km (60 K miles), after 50K km (30 K miles) rear pads are gone.
I now think the mechanic installed shitty pads Raybestos) to get more business, he's telling me no pads go over 40-45K km, which is a lie.

A friend who drives highway gets over 100K (65 mi) with OEMs.
 
h&t said:
I am looking at rockauto and I see 5 Akebono pads, which ones should I buy?
The prices are fairly close.
I drive 2011 SRV

Also, how long do your pads last?

My originals were good for about 90K km (60 K miles), after 50K km (30 K miles) rear pads are gone.
I now think the mechanic installed shitty pads Raybestos) to get more business, he's telling me no pads go over 40-45K km, which is a lie.

A friend who drives highway gets over 100K (65 mi) with OEMs.
Click to expand...

Personally, I use Akebono pads for all of our cars. If your buddy does highway miles, that won't be much wear and tear to the pads, so it'll pretty much last forever (unless he falls into a lot of traffic). The life of the pads depend on your driving as well. If you keep slamming your brakes, not too long. Other than that, you can get 50k+ on them easily.
 
I got 75k rear and 80k front with the OEM pads... replaced with OEM. Easy peasy. No reason to replace rotors...
 
mo_mo said:
I got 75k rear and 80k front with the OEM pads... replaced with OEM. Easy peasy. No reason to replace rotors...
Click to expand...

Ditto, I changed my OEM at 92K, I could have made it to 98K but just decided to do it and get it over with.
 
I hate the brakes on 5th gen 4 runners. I drove a 2018 Tacoma with 13k miles and was wondering why my 4 runner brakes don't feel like the Tacoma's brakes?

I have been looking at Stop Tech slotted rotors, Hawk HPS brake pads, and I am still looking for a good set of stainless front and rear brake lines to fix these mini van like brakes.
 
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Texas_Ranger said:
I replaced my rotors and pads 2 weeks ago and wanted to share my experience with my choices and results. I purchased AKEBONO pads all around and Centric Premium rotors. These have made a world of difference in comparison to stock pads and rotors. ...
Click to expand...

What is part number on the pads you went with?


.
 
The Akebono's certainly feel like they bite more. It took a while to get used to them, I hit the ABS a few times on panic stops. I also replaced the rotors with Centrics.

Part numbers I used:

Akebono ACT606 and ACT976
Centric 12044175 and 12044174

I got about 45k out of the backs and the fronts probably had another 5k on them, but I replaced them anyways. I tow a 5k # trailer a lot.
 
I'd stay away from "performance" pads, they are ill suited for daily driving...even though most fall for the marketing. Solid rotors are always best, even on race cars, since they act like a heat sink.
 
nglayton said:
Ditto, I changed my OEM at 92K, I could have made it to 98K but just decided to do it and get it over with.
Click to expand...

I'm still amazed at the pad/rotor life. I've used Akebono ceramic pads in the past on a different vehicle and they're great, but the OEM 4Runner brakes seem like the way to go.
 
Rapid_Amble said:
I'm still amazed at the pad/rotor life. I've used Akebono ceramic pads in the past on a different vehicle and they're great, but the OEM 4Runner brakes seem like the way to go.
Click to expand...

I've had the pleasure of coversing multiple times with someone who worked on the R&D side of the brake industry. OEM is always the way to go for daily drivers. OEMs have very specific requirements/standards that aren't even met by top tier aftermarket pads.
 
GripT4R said:
I hate the brakes on 5th gen 4 runners. I drove a 2018 Tacoma with 13k miles and was wondering why my 4 runner brakes don't feel like the Tacoma's brakes?

I have been looking at Stop Tech slotted rotors, Hawk HPS brake pads, and I am still looking for a good set of stainless front and rear brake lines to fix these mini van like brakes.
Click to expand...

Agreed 100%. The brakes were never great, at best they were just ok. Just had the fronts replaced (with factory pads and rotors) thinking it would help, nope the pedal actually feels a lot worse now. I brought it back in saying there was air in the lines, and they begrudgingly re-flushed the brake lines, but the pedal feel still sucks! I will change the rears myself shortly with new pads and rotors hoping for some improvement, at least a slightly higher pedal height. Otherwise I will be looking for stainless steel brake lines too in the near future.

FYI my Camry had really shitty brakes too. WTF Toyota!?
 
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Crocket said:
Agreed 100%. The brakes were never great, but at best they were ok. Just had the fronts replaced (with factory pads and rotors) thinking it would help, nope the pedal actually feels a lot worse now. I brought it back in saying there was air in the lines, and they begrudgingly re-flushed the brake lines, but the pedal feel still sucks! I will change the rears myself shortly with new pads and rotors hoping for some improvement, at least a slightly higher pedal height. Otherwise I will be looking for stainless steel brake lines too in the near future.

FYI my Camry had really shitty brakes too. WTF Toyota!?
Click to expand...

Stainless braided brake lines, and Castrol SRF DOT 4 brake fluid should give a firm pedal.
 
Wizzard said:
I'd stay away from "performance" pads, they are ill suited for daily driving...even though most fall for the marketing. Solid rotors are always best, even on race cars, since they act like a heat sink.
Click to expand...

I tracked my 14 Mustang GT on a road course in HPDE track days multiple times a year from October 2016 to February 2019.

You know what I never saw on a single daily driven track car, or high end race cars? blank rotors.(non slotted or drilled)

Nearly EVERYONE uses a 2pc floating rotor with an aluminum hat, and the rings are slotted, or cross drilled, or both. Why? Because they are an effective heat sink. Blank rotors crack in a few laps because they absorb heat and cannot get rid of it efficiently. Whish is why slotted rotors, and 2pc rotors exist.

My 14 GT had slotted rotors, and I used G-LOC R12 race compound pads at the track, and G-Loc GS-1 pads on the street which are a compound for autocross that work from ambient temp to 1,200.

It is proven that street style performance brake pad will out perform OEM style pads in almost every single way (except maybe dust).

Please stop spreading misinformation, someone may need this thread in the future.
 
I've hit 57k on my stock brakes. I was impressed with how long these OEM pads have lasted. I check them recently and feel like I should replace them before my Colorado trip next month. No squeaking but better safe than sorry, I guess.

Hard to stray away from the OEM pads and the rotors shouldn't need replacing unless you are getting some bad pedal vibration. Even then, getting the rotors turned will fix that.
 
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