2014 4Runner Trail Edition

The keyless entry started working intermittently for quite a while and now has stopped working entirely.

Replaced the battery in the key, no change.
Disconnected the battery, no change.
Checked for a bad fuse, checked all fuses, no change.
Scan tool shows no codes thrown.

I tried the second key back when it was intermittent but apparently that part of the key was never programmed. Key will start and I can drive the vehicle at highway speed so the truck recognizes the 2nd key.

So I'm down to a bad initial key with an unprogrammed 2nd key, or the receiver in the truck has gone out.

Any suggestions before I drive it down to the dealership? I can find used receivers online for around $40, new from dealership are over $400. I think the receiver location is behind the glove box door. Still looking into that.

Thanks.

let me see if I can help. this is my thought process here...

- stand right next to the door. as close as you can. does the car unlock or respond when close but not when far? If yes, it's likely the antenna/amplifier . if no it's either the antenna / amplifier or a bad key. move to step 2
- the only way to rule out a bad first key is to program the second key. if it works, then your ECU/antennas are fine. if it doesn't then it's the ECU or antennas and we can move to the next step
- the antenna/amplifier/ receiver is more likely cause than the ECU. has anyone actually had an ECU go bad? probably Im sure but I don't see it often

Sorry this happened to you 61hawk. If it was me, personally I would see if I could have it replaced to use an old fashion key. This is the problem with modern cars with all the new gadgets is that they are more difficult and more expensive to fix.

Thank you. I get no response anywhere around the vehicle. The receiver is between the rear driver's side door and gas door. Even there, or with the key inside the access door inside the cargo area it does nothing.

I did get it to unlock once over the weekend... first time in about a month, but since then it's back to nothing.

I have a used receiver coming from E-Bay, should be here this week. It's untested of course so who knows if it's any good. I'm hoping I can get the original one unplugged since I really don't want to have to remove the cargo interior panel.

The dealership said it was $169 to reprogram a key, and they'll do a second key for no charge. So I'm going to try and plug in this "new" receiver and if that doesn't work it looks like I'll be going to the dealership.

That's what I'm doing now, the key will work as a old fashioned key in the locks.

That last comment reminds me of a short video from a mechanic I saw last week... "Why does a tail light costs $1100?". A friend is having his 2022 Limited windshield replaced this week... $1700, it's $400 to have the box on the windshield recalibrated.

if its the receiver that goes on the bottom of the trunk area that is easy to access if you don't have third row seats. it's panel popping and some screws and it's easily accessible. if you have third row seats you'll have to remove the passenger third row. if you have the sliding tray then you need to remove the tray. a pain but it's worth saving the dealer labor to do this as a DIY

Thanks, no third row seats or sliding tray. The receiver came in today and I was able to take the cover off and look at the circuit board... it looks good, so we'll see.

Do you know if I have to reprogram the key (open door, put key in ignition 3x, etc...) or should this be a plug and play thing?

its not plug and play because the computer needs to recognize the new receiver. there is a series of unlock/locks you need to do if you don't have the push button start. you can try it yourself and if that doesn't work you will have to go to the dealer. the good thing is programming a new receiver should be cheaper than a new remote. I would try this sequence below, I have a push button so I don't know if this works or not or if doing the above incorrectly will further impact the fob use. but doesn't hurt to try:

1. drivers door open and unlocked. all other doors closed
2. key in / out. insert and then immediately remove
3. within 5 seconds press drivers door lock/ unlock switch in this sequence: lock,unlock,lock,unlock,lock,unlock
4. key in /out again
5. within 5 seconds repeat step 3
6. insert key
7. IGN on but don't start engine, then back to lock

the door locks should cycle lock then unlock to indicate the vehicle is in programming mode
within 40 seconds of that press lock and unlock on fob together for 1.5 seconds to 2 seconds the release
then press lock button for about 1 second

the door locks should cycle again. once means success twice means try step 2 again

to exit remove the key the doors will cycle lock then unlock to confirm you've left programming mode. test the fob

My 2018 just started to act up. The fobs work intermittently, so I changed both fob batteries. The fob light blinks, but the 4Runner locks don't respond 90% of the time. Car battery is 13.1V and 2 years old. I tried disconnecting the battery.
Bonus thing that started with the fob issue, a blinking dome light. When the car is parked, the dome flashes on and off. I can turn it off manually, but if it is in the "door open" position, it blinks on and off. I had local garage pull the codes, and there are no faults.
I searched the web, and I can't find the blinking dome light.
Any help or prayers are appreciated.

do you have any internal LED bulbs and do you have a remote start or alarm system?

If you like DIY.
Look up how to repair TV remote on youtube. The buttons after time get dirty contacts. They show how to clean. Same for keyss with buttons

For that kind of issue thus stuff works like magic
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-De.../dp/B00006LVEU

I have an update on my flashing dome lights, and fob intermittently working.
Well, I did nothing else, and two days later it started to work with no issues.
I have no idea how the symptoms went away, but it got above freezing, and maybe there was some moisture somewhere that dried up? I don't know, but glad it is working now.
I walk my dog on trails everyday, and most of those places don't have cell reception. So I was afraid the electrical issue would leave me stranded. So the self fix is good news.
Thanks for the replies.

I have a fix... doesn't make sense but it works.

My two key fobs had new Duracell CR2016 batteries placed in the keys and both appeared as dead. So I set an appointment with Toyota and purchased a new key online just in case my main key was worn out (12 years old and used daily). If they were going to have to reprogram my second key I wanted to have two working keys.

The new key came with a battery and I noticed when I pressed a button a red light would come on. It didn't on either of my original keys. So I took the new key battery out and put it in my main key, now my original key works again. Put it in my second key and it works, so it is programmed which I didn't think it was.

Pull out the multi-meter, both replacement batteries read 3.0 volts. Try the replacement batteries in the new key and no red light, try back in two original keys and no light.

So all three batteries I have are reading 3.0 volts, only one will work in all three keys and the two replacement batteries will not work in any key.

So I put the "good" battery in my main key and now have one working key and a different brand of batteries on order. Doesn't make sense, all three batteries are new CR2016's reading 3.0 volts, but only one will work in the keys.

Cancelled my appointment with Toyota.

Very Interesting & nice work! ...Please let us know which are the batteries that work and which to buy??