Donnellyshores's Hapless '87 4R build (in 9 days)

To Do (more thorough list below:

-install tachometer, need to purchase and install a voltmeter
-Spare has been obtained, now needs to be mounted
-Re-wire passenger seat: go to Missing Link for bike cable, cable ends, re-wire
-Horn- horn?????????
-4WD indicator light
-Deal with torsion bar lowering

Done:
-new BFG 235/75/15s, on custom 15x8 rims
-alignment, sway bar/tie rod end set replaced, front passenger side (mechanic)
-new radiator & Catalytic Converter (mechanic)
-installed & wired new Kenwood KDC-125 headunit, Pioneer 6.5" 300W speakers, generic 250W amp
-installed & wired new Peak Work Zone 1200W inverter with remote outlet (in dashboard above passenger side speaker)
-installed new (junkyard), double-decker center console with reupholstered arm rest cover
-replaced front brake pads
-replaced windshield wipers (front and back)
-cleaned, sanded, and painted-on bedliner on entire bed
-replaced windshield washer fluid reservoir (junkyard)
-wired new switch for back window
-installed new (junkyard) interior trim around back windows, utility doors in quarter panels, along base of tailgate
-re-glued trim around exterior of front doors, back seat windows
-bought a tricked out vehicle kit, all fitting in a 25 gallon Rubbermaid Roughneck (the usual: tow straps, Viair 90P air compressor, folding army surplus shovel, 25' jumper cables, Lift Mate for Hi-Lift Jack, Off-Road Base for Hi-Lift Jack, large 1.75L bottle of Black Velvet [emergency whiskey], other various and sundry items)


After getting some advice from people and exploring my options a bit in this thread, I decided my new money pit needed it's own build thread.

Here's the story: about a month ago, I bought an '87 22RE with 258,000 for $2500. The body was rough, but tricked out with nerf bars and a lift and big tires. The interior was even worse, just pretty dirty but also lots of elements falling apart- trim pieces, entire panels of the wall, just bare metal (no rugs or mats left) in the back, broken switches and a recently stolen stereo, just a total piece of shit. Under the hood, though, she was solid, with recently replaced just about everything other than the big components. It has 33x12.5 BFG Mud Terrains on it, on 15" custom rims.



My wife was super pissed :gun6::whip:, but I've been trying to win her over. She wanted a good-looking 3rd gen with running boards. Good luck with that for a budget of $3k! I've appeased her by saying that I'd try to make the interior real spiffy, and I'd try to lower the lift a bit (and/or get smaller tires). We are going on a 2-week, 4000 mile roadtrip from the Bay Area, California to Austin and back (via Utah) [map here], and we leave next Friday (03/22). I've been mostly jacking around and certainly spending moenyfor the past 20 days, and have done only menial tasks, for the most part:

-retrieved various trim parts and other miscellany from junkyards
-replaced windshield wipers (front and back)
-rewired new switch for back window
-installed new interior trim around back windows, utility doors in quarter panels, along base of tailgate
-re-glued trim around exterior of front doors
-bought a tricked out vehicle kit, all fitting in a 25 gallon Rubbermaid Roughneck (the usual: tow straps, Viair 90P air compressor, folding army surplus shovel, 25' jumper cables, Lift Mate for Hi-Lift Jack, Off-Road Base for Hi-Lift Jack, large 1.75L bottle of Black Velvet [emergency whiskey], other various and sundry items)
-bought components for electrical and audio system: Peak Work Zone 1200W inverter, Kenwood KDC-125 headunit, Pioneer 6.5" 300W speakers (wtf, way too much power, might need an amp), SunPro SuperTach

My to-do list is so long it makes me quake in my boots; or rather it makes my wallet quake in its boots. But many things are low-priority and can wait until after the trip. Some things, I'm not so sure of... and could really use some advice on. To whit...



-My right front sway bar is bent and needs to be replaced. When this was pointed out to me, something was muttered about tie-rod ends, about which I know nothing. Are these components likely failing as companions?
-I need an alignment. Bad.
-Would like to lower the lift a bit, but don't have much ability to do so. Will try tweaking down the front torsion bars, anyway, to even out the butt sag.
-Would like to switch down to stock tires (235 BFG AT's on 15" rims), but have been advised that I need to check and see if it's been regeared. I haven't yet done so, because I have neither a jack nor a tachometer. Both are on order. Actually I do have a Hi-Lift jack, but given that I have nerf bars all the way around, I can't get to any frame components to lift it without the Lift Mate, which is on order. If it has been re-geared, my friend has advised me that I could potentially find a front and rear differential that are stock at a junk yard, and that it would be relatively simple to swap out the re-geared differentials. Is this accurate? I would think this would be a complicated procedure.
-Have various interior pieces that either need replacement or just a good solid cleaning. I think the rear quarter panels are the wrong color and would love to locate some gray ones.
-Need to install stereo, speakers, tachometer, need to purchase and install a voltmeter
-The horn still doesn't work, haven't done anything yet, need to get in and check fuses to see if it's an easy fix
-The 4WD indicator, if there is one, isn't working. Need to get into instrument panel to replace bulb. What a pain in the ass. Might skip it.
-Need to reupholster or figure out some other solution for the new double-high center console, and then need to swap it out with the old one.
-The back windshield wiper doesn't go back into it's little housing, and now I think the arm might be jacked. Someone suggested just not using it, an that may be what happens. I understand now why the switch was disconnected when I found it.
-I'm going to use paint-on liner for the back, since it's so gunked up, and then I'll put carpet remnants on top of that.
-This is much longer term, but... the idle gets louder when I release the clutch and am just in neutral. There's a sort of louder, higher-pitched component to the idle sound. This sound also gets louder if you hit the accelerator while in neutral. With the clutch pressed in the sound is not present. Everyone who's heard it has gotten a worried look on their face but no one seems to have any ideas. Any ideas?

I'll continue to edit and update this list. I'm hoping to get most everything here done in the next 9 days. We'll see... certainly anything that involves swapping differentials won't happen- whatever gearing this truck is set up for is how we're driving to Texas.

Anyway I'd appreciate any advice and I'll post pictures as I go along.

Cheers!:drummer::happy:

if your going to use the truck to haul and stuff i would suggest buying some aluminum diamond plate and making rear panels durable and looks good

removing cluster to change lights isnt that difficult wile its out id recommend replacing the back lights with leds for better visibility also the 4x4 indicator light might not be receiving a signal check the wires on tranny to see if there unhooked.

just a recommendation i put a second set of speakers in my rears here its much better than putting them way in the back

I broke my front sway bar and just decided to take it off completely. I really don't notice a difference, especially because my t-bars are cranked slightly. I have the one in the rear still, I would never take that one off because my rear is so soft.
I know a lot of people say to leave the sway bars on, which is probably best, but I'm not driving this thing at high speeds around corners anyway.

92-SR5 said:

I broke my front sway bar and just decided to take it off completely. I really don't notice a difference, especially because my t-bars are cranked slightly. I have the one in the rear still, I would never take that one off because my rear is so soft.
I know a lot of people say to leave the sway bars on, which is probably best, but I'm not driving this thing at high speeds around corners anyway.

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Yeah I'm probably going to do it just because the primary use of this vehicle, while not day-to-day, will be lots of road driving en route to adventures. Like the aforementioned 4000 mile roadtrip, annual trips down Baja, back home in the Mojave Desert, etc. I've gotten by just fine with generally stock 4WD set ups in the past, so I'm trying to make this vehicle as road ready as possible, given that it's currently set up as a muddin' trail vehicle.

Mine is a DD. I'm sure it's best to replace it though.

Iroke17 said:

just a recommendation i put a second set of speakers in my rears here its much better than putting them way in the back

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Hmm that's a nice spot for them, plus they're a little safer there (I usually have a lot of gear in the back). I suppose cutting and wiring was about the same? Just to clarify then, you don't have anything in the back? I currently have nothing (NOTHING) except some old wiring, not even any sort of means of supporting a speaker. What type of kit did you use? (I've never installed new speakers, just replaced old ones).

there in front of the rear seats and there far forward enough when the seats are folded down i have no issues

all i did is cut the panel and screw the speaker to the panel i did have to cut some of the metal in the body to get them up that far because i wanted them up where you can hear not your leg.

they are kenwood 5.25" and wiring is as simple as running 2 lines from the head unit under the carpet to the sides and up to speakers

Iroke17 said:

all i did is cut the panel and screw the speaker to the panel i did have to cut some of the metal in the body to get them up that far because i wanted them up where you can hear not your leg.

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did you use a sawzall or something else to cut the body?

eather used a dremal or tin snips its not that thick

Well this morning was mildly productive.

Installed speakers in panels next to seats- no need to cut metal (yay!). Purchase and installed amp, began wiring speakers and amp.
Began figuring out and ripping out shitloads of existing wiring. Some of it puzzles me, I must say. :tsk:
changed a few fuses, but the horn still doesn't work. :doh:

Perhaps best of all, I'm solving this damn tire and alignment problem once and for all- with money. My mechanic referred me to someone else who's going to mount four new 235/75/R15LT BFG ATs on my used 15" rims I found (I already have two), replace the swaybar and rest of associated pieces on front right side, and do an alignment, all for a reasonable price (given how much two new BFG ATs cost). Getting it done tomorrow. Shelling out some cash for it, but dammit it needs to get done. And there's no way I was figuring out how to install a sway bar and associated apparatus in the next week.

donnellyshores said:

Well this morning was mildly productive.

Installed speakers in panels next to seats- no need to cut metal (yay!). Purchase and installed amp, began wiring speakers and amp.
Began figuring out and ripping out shitloads of existing wiring. Some of it puzzles me, I must say. :tsk:
changed a few fuses, but the horn still doesn't work. :doh:

Perhaps best of all, I'm solving this damn tire and alignment problem once and for all- with money. My mechanic referred me to someone else who's going to mount four new 235/75/R15LT BFG ATs on my used 15" rims I found (I already have two), replace the swaybar and rest of associated pieces on front right side, and do an alignment, all for a reasonable price (given how much two new BFG ATs cost). Getting it done tomorrow. Shelling out some cash for it, but dammit it needs to get done. And there's no way I was figuring out how to install a sway bar and associated apparatus in the next week.

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Well shit. Talk about your rookie mistake: that amp impedes the upward movement of the seat bottom when bringing down the seats. I didn't think to check when I placed it. I'm not sure where to place it, I guess I'm considering the trunk now. Grrrrrrrrr...

Mount it to the back of the seat or if you dont plan on the floor getting wet, mount it under the drivers seat?

Hyde802 said:

Mount it to the back of the seat or if you dont plan on the floor getting wet, mount it under the drivers seat?

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My seats sag so much there's no room under the seat! But actually the back of the drivers seat is a brilliant idea, i'll give that a try when she comes back from the shop.

I have mine under my passenger side seat. fits perfect, wouldn't know its there unless you look hard. I don't do any river crossings or anything like that so I am not worried about it getting wet.
It's a 1200 watt amp and never had any heat issues, even when pumping two 12s for a long time. Well back when I had 12s, haha

Why not mount it same spot only behind the panel I know there's room

Put it in one of the access panels by the tailgate.

KidVermicious said:

Put it in one of the access panels by the tailgate.

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It will require completely ripping out everything I did and rewiring everything, but it is also the best option. I may do that. In that case, I'd be mounting directly to the outer body of the truck?

Well, she just got back from the mechanic. New BFG All Terrain KO 235/75R15LTs on new (to me) custom rims. Hate the paint job on them but they're the right size. The lift looks a little cray now, but I'm hoping I can take care of that at least partially by adjusting the front torsion bar. Also just told I need front brakes. BOOOO... hoping I can do that myself this weekend.

Also took care of alignment, sway bar/tie rod end assembly replacement.

donnellyshores said:

It will require completely ripping out everything I did and rewiring everything, but it is also the best option. I may do that. In that case, I'd be mounting directly to the outer body of the truck?

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Inside the drivers side panel is a little rack that holds the rear window washer that never ever works. You could modify that rack. Or pull the entire side trim and build a little sub panel in the empty space to hide it to. I wouldn't mount it directly to the outside sheet metal though.

Brakes are easy. And is the front lift all torsion-bar? If so, you can definitely relax them to lower the front, and you'll like the ride a lot better too.

donnellyshores said:

The lift looks a little cray now, but I'm hoping I can take care of that at least partially by adjusting the front torsion bar.

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Spray your torsion bar bolts and nuts with a little PB Blaster over the next couple of days before you go at ot. Also don't forget to raise the front end or you might end up like me with a broken bolt and a permanent scar on your fingers.

I really miss the mandatory use of Maintenance Procedure Cards.