Recent content by cdyoung1985

It's more "idiot-proofing" than a safety switch. Too many people would use it incorrectly and screw things up. And if you truly need it, you probably need 4L. But many of us was it when we don't truly need it. And lockers are safe at high speed, unless you're turning. It's one of the first...

Evidently Tapatalk doesn't wasn't to notify me when there are replies on here, sorry about the delay... Right now the locker doesn't work, hasn't since I bought it. I doubt it's the wire, just the first place I'm starting with trouble shooting. But it changes the flashing pattern from 2h to 4L...

So yesterday I attempted the mod. I found the blue/red wire under the kick panel on the drivers side, cut it and touched both sides to ground, 1 at a time then both, but nothing changed the flash of the locker light except putting it in low. So with the wire cut the switch worked like normal...

I have snow tires and barely touch 4wd lol. Running the Altimax and love them. If I do put it in 4wd I can mat it and don't spin a tire. Bout the only time I use it is either when I need to get out in traffic or I want to pass somebody quickly. Sent from my LGLS676 using Tapatalk

I'm usually cruising seasonal roads around 40ish, so slowing to 5 if I'm coming up on a mud hole is not very productive. I guess I could just turn it on when I hit the trail and leave it on, or if I don't want to slow down just don't use it. Hell I do most everything in 2wd without the locker...

If I'm off the gas and not doing anything much it should be fine. Not going to do it on pavement, at high speeds, going around a curve, going over major bumps, or anything stupid. Just don't want to have to slow down to 5 mph to turn it on. If it was 15 or so that might not be so bad, I wouldn't...

So I want to be able to engage it in any gear at any speed. I read a few threads and a couple posts referenced there was a wire I could cut to remove the 5 mph safety setup? I know I need to ground the blue/red wire, looks like on the Sent from my LGLS676 using Tapatalk

So this isn't quite like the all too typical lift question. Ultimately I don't want to lift more than I have to. What I want is more travel, which I don't think the average lift really does. I don't think I want a long travel because I don't really want to increase my track width, not to mention...

Swapped lights the first time, low beam didn't work on drivers, did on passengers, swapped them back, and replaced with a universal sealed unit, happened again only a few weeks later. I'll have to get a multi meter and check voltages, but I know it's got power, being that it worked with three...

So a few months ago I replaced both headlights. Then maybe 2 weeks ago, the passenger side low beam died. Then the headlight assembly broke, so I picked up one of the old school sealed headlights that had the same plug. So I know it isn't that I touched the bulb, and also it isn't from a cracked...

Well, I'm getting a pretty nice check, and she's bout to be better when I'm done than it ever was.

I'll have the bumpers on before I can do the lift I'm pretty sure. The metal is free from my buddies job, unfortunately he doesn't make suspension. But if I can do it for $500, I might be able to fit it in. Gotta square my bike away first, the funding is from the Harley getting "totalled", so...

So I've read, reread, reread, and read the big sticky thread that's pretty much the bible of 4runner lifts. Still have questions related more directly to my project. Want tune trd tundra front, land cruiser rear. On the norm I have a couple hundred pounds of crap in the back, I'm going to build...