'00 Front (Disc) Brakes - DYI / Lookouts?

[alphamikefoxtrot]

Good Day All!

Wanted to see if there were any DIY threads out there / walk-thrus on changing out front rotors and pads on the '00 4R SR5, or any major look-out-for-this warnings, etc. I know about the bolt-on Tundra upgrade but don't have the $$$ at the moment, just need to get rid of the pulsing pedal.

Also - does anyone have a good DIY for adjusting the rear-drum slack adjusters? The pedal in my 4R is 'quite low' when fully depressed.

Thank You!

 

[Sherwood4Runner]

If you just google, Tundra brake mod (even though you aren't going to do the mod), there are a few write ups/ walkthroughs and it will be the same steps as if you were just swapping out your stock rotors and calipers for another set of stock 4runner rotors and calipers.

not sure on how to adjust the rear drums. Someone will though.

 

[quicksilvr]

Changing front rotors and pads on a 3rd gen 4runner is cake. It's exactly what you would expect it to be.

1. Jack up front end, place on stands and remove wheels/tires.
2. If the rotors are warped - replace them. If not have someone mic them for minimum thickness - (0.787 inches).
3. Remove the small clip spring from the back side and gently tap out the slide pins using a punch/drift. Watch the anti-rattle spring as it can pop out.
(TIP: Lay the slide pins and anti-rattle clip on the ground or workbench in the configuration they came off...it's easy to forget which way it goes if you've never done them before)
4. Remove the pads, inboard and outboard along with the anti-squeal shims (2per pad).
5. The Caliper is removed by undoing two 17mm bolts on the back side. You'll probably need a breaker bar to do this. Suspend the caliper (NOT by the brake line, but use an old coathanger or wire to secure it out of the way.
6. Removal of the rotors is simply by pulling the rotor off the hub - although sometimes it is stuck by rust/dirt. A gentle, yet deliberate adminstration of force by a soft mallet will encourage it to become unstuck.
7. The new rotor is just slid into place.
8. Caliper is remounted to the bracket with torquing of the 17mm bolts to 90ft lbs and use of Loc-Tite (blue).
9. Press the pistons back in. (verify you don't have any frozen pistons...if you do, you might be able to get it loosened...but you also might have to buy a new caliper. I've only ever had one frozen...and I was able to break it free with some serious pressure with an extra set of hands and couple pry bars)
10. Apply antisqueal "stuff" to the back of the pads and apply the shims
11. Install pads inside caliper, replace pins, apply retainer spring clip.
12. Bleed entire brake system when completed. (optional, but recommended)