'05 4Runner Build Thread

ThorRides

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I've had my '05 4Runner Limited for almost a year now, so I figured I should post up some of the mods I've done. When I bought it, the prior owner had already traded the hood for a sport hood with the scoop, switched out the wheels for 18" Method Race wheels 304, and added a Viper alarm with remote start. They also reworked the suspension; there is a 1" body lift, the front has Tundra strut/shocks with OEM 4runner coils, and the rear has FJ80 springs with Fox 2.0 shocks.

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More pics

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Some flex along the road at Deer Creek

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The stuffing on the other side

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Going down a hill I previously went up

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We were at Lake Tahoe so we drove up some of the easy section of the Rubicon Trail.
I love having my wife drive and building her confidence.
 
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My first mod was in the cab. I added Bluetooth to the OEM stereo. While I was in there I added a couple USB slots for charging and a metal backing plate for a Ram Mount. The mount now holds my tablet which I use for mapping while I'm out exploring.

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The backing plate wasn't threaded as advertised so I used JB Weld to stick the nuts to the plate.

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Cabin Fuse Box

Next I saw all these unused fuse locations and thought "That would be a great place to add circuits." So I pulled it out and started to dissect the thing.

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That turned out to be a bad idea. After several attempts to hold all the different tabs and pry it apart, I gave up.

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I didn't find any evidence online that others had gotten this apart and added extra circuits. I was glad to give up before bending any of the circuit boards and creating cracks in the traces.
 
Road Shower

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My next mod was a road shower. I watched some YouTube and made it for ~$60 from Home Depot parts, air fittings, and a garden sprayer.
 
Platform & Drawers

Around the same time I worked on the road shower, I put together my idea for a lightweight platform. I don't have any pictures of the actual build as I was in a hurry to prepare for a trip with my brother (in-law) exploring canyons in Utah.

Industrial Electricians sometimes use "cable ladder rack" to run long lengths of wires and cable in. It is a lightweight aluminum I-Beam structure with ladder "rungs" to lay the wires on. I ordered a 6" tall and a 4" tall section (they come in 10' lengths) and cut them down to length so they just fit between the rear hatch and rear seats.

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Here is a photo of what is leftover, sitting in my attic (next to the Halloween skeletons) waiting for my son's 4Runner.

Using self-tapping screws, I screwed the 6" tall I-Beams to the 4" tall such that the supports were at the top and bottom. This formed the openings for my drawers. I used CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) to create a template (with lots of marking, cutting, rechecking and repeating) to cut out a sheet of 1/2" plywood to sit on top of the drawers and screwed that down to the ladder rack. The plywood is probably actually 31/64ths since lumber mills are idiotic and never learned how to use a tape measure.

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This is the front of the platform with the rear seats folded down. You can see the turnbuckles I used to secure it in place. There are two more in the rear outside corners. I used J hooks from Ace Hardware to attach the turnbuckles to the ladder rack. I can't tighten them too much or the aluminum starts to deform. You can also see the door hinges with removable pins I use to attach the next section of the platform. I will explain that later.

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I built some drawers to fit out of 1 x 10 with the 1/2" plywood for the drawer bottoms. I glued and screwed them together and they have held up to plenty of abuse for the last 1.3 years. You can see I now travel always with a camp stove and cooking supplies on the left and the tools and recovery gear on the right. I put the heavier drawer on the right to offset my weight (like it really matters).

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Here is a shot with the drawers closed. I bought slides for them, but never installed them (yet). For now, the plywood slides fine on the ladder rungs of the 6" tall ladder rack. I find I don't need handles either; I just grab the wood and lift a little while I pull them out or push them in. Rarely, something in the drawer shifts and as I pull the drawer out, it hits one of the ladder rungs and makes the drawer stick. I just push the drawer in a little and reach inside to fix it, then I can open it again. I keep a first aid kit and fire extinguisher on the right, a tarp in the middle, and a hammock and some small ropes on the left.
 
Sleeping Platform

I did some more CAD (Cardboard) and got the right cuts to continue the platform forward of the rear seats.

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I am 6'4", so I need to slide the front seats all the way forward, incline the seat backs forward more, and tilt the driver seat up in order to fit. This isn't feasible for driving, so I made the forward part of the platform with a piano hinge in the middle so I can fold it into the back and restore the front seats.

In these pictures (taken after our trip) I have the seat bottom sitting on the seat back just to show the concept. During any actual trip, I take the seats out (its just a few bolts) and put in a support structure I made out of 2 x 3 whitewood (whatever species that is). It is all glued and screwed, has a few metal brackets where needed, and has dowels that fit into holes in the plywood platform. Between the support structure 2x3s, we fit storage containers with our dry food, bedding, clothes, etc.

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I have a tri-fold 3" thick mattress that I lay over the platform, then just sleep in a sleeping bag.
 
My first mod was in the cab. I added Bluetooth to the OEM stereo. While I was in there I added a couple USB slots for charging and a metal backing plate for a Ram Mount. The mount now holds my tablet which I use for mapping while I'm out exploring.

I like the location of the USB ports and Ram Mount. Well thought out.
 
Thanks; the tablet kind of covers the ports and the selector for where the AC is blowing, but once the cords are in I don't need access to the ports and I rarely change the selector, but just use the auto. Sometimes it is a bit annoying for the passenger cup holder, but it isn't too bad.

My wife is short, so I didn't want to block any of the windshield.
 
Thanks; the tablet kind of covers the ports and the selector for where the AC is blowing, but once the cords are in I don't need access to the ports and I rarely change the selector, but just use the auto. Sometimes it is a bit annoying for the passenger cup holder, but it isn't too bad.

My wife is short, so I didn't want to block any of the windshield.

That doesn't sound like it would be that big of a hindrance. You can just set the AC and forget about it. Also since the 4th Gen cup holders are so bad most people just hold their drinks anyways.

I'm trying to decide between mounting the Ram Mount where you did or on a Rago Fabrication center console panels & bridge plate.
 
That doesn't sound like it would be that big of a hindrance...

I'm trying to decide between mounting the Ram Mount where you did or on a Rago Fabrication.

I agree it isn't much hindrance. I didn't realize people don't like the 4th gen cup holders. I often use them with my Kleen Kanteen pint cups and water bottles and rarely have an issue. I guess if I'm taking a hard corner, I may reach down to help support them though.

If you get the Rago Molle mount, you would only be able to drink from tiny cups that fit under it. I guess you could mount something to the outside of the molle panels, but I would think that gets in the way more. I also actually use the tiny, useless cubby behind the cupholders (for gum and breath mints). I wonder if you could rework the top strap so it sits low and between the gear selector and the cupholders.
 

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