06 Add to the garage?

Do you happen to have a good link for the 4x4 operating run down? I figured out the 4H and diff lock but didn't test the 4Lo and messed with 2Lo but couldn't figure that out on the fly.
Not sure where the transfer case actuator is, but I'll white glove it.
When you are driving with 4hi engaged, stop the vehicle, put it in neutral and switch to 4lo. The light might blink but then should go on solid.
 
I did do some back checking on this 06 and it looks like through the history the timing belt and water pump were changed. So if this was done then I can still go in low due to the ripped seat and get this.
This is what I found - SPARE TIRE VERY LOW SET ALL TO 35PSI RESET LIGHT,DISCOUNT APPLIED,DISCOUNT APPLIED,CUSOTMER HAS REQUESTED A MULTI-POINT INSPECTION,REPLACE LEAKING WATER PUMP, TIMING BELT, THERMOSTAT, ACC. DRIVE BELT,CV BOOTS ONE SIDE - REPLACE BOTH INNER AND OUTER PASS FRT,REPALCE LEFT INNER CV BOOT SMALL CLAMP,TUNE-UP - BASIC,UPDATE ECM SOFTWARE AND INSTALL UPDATE LABEL

If it doesn’t have a timing belt sticker, I’d still try to use it as leverage as not being done. If they told you it hasn’t been, then go in using it as a bargaining chip. They want the most money for it, you want to give the least amount for it. If they didn’t do their history research on it, take advantage of that.
 
The 02 and up 2uzfe got VVTi and the engine is interference type so make sure you get the timing belt done on time.
I find landcruiser 100 series (00-07) or LX with V8 gets about 17 MPG regardless of miles.
 
I'd go for it. I like my 3rd gen well enough for what it is, but the V8 alone would be worth the swap. This motor is so gutless lol.
 
I did do some back checking on this 06 and it looks like through the history the timing belt and water pump were changed. So if this was done then I can still go in low due to the ripped seat and get this.
This is what I found - SPARE TIRE VERY LOW SET ALL TO 35PSI RESET LIGHT,DISCOUNT APPLIED,DISCOUNT APPLIED,CUSOTMER HAS REQUESTED A MULTI-POINT INSPECTION,REPLACE LEAKING WATER PUMP, TIMING BELT, THERMOSTAT, ACC. DRIVE BELT,CV BOOTS ONE SIDE - REPLACE BOTH INNER AND OUTER PASS FRT,REPALCE LEFT INNER CV BOOT SMALL CLAMP,TUNE-UP - BASIC,UPDATE ECM SOFTWARE AND INSTALL UPDATE LABEL

So did you get it?

About 4 years ago the GMC dealer down the street from me had TWO clean 08s on the lot. Sub 80K miles from memory. They wanted 15K. I walked away from the deal because at the time the value wasn't there for them. Now I wish I had taken it. I'd pay 15K for a clean 08 today, 4 years later lol. Something has happened over the past 5 years and the older Toyotas (I guess all cars really) really shot up in value. I am sure partly from the fact that new cars have really increased in cost over the last 5 years with stricter government demands on fuel and safety.

In 2003 a decent car used to cost $25K. Now you are $35K for something similar
 
...

In 2003 a decent car used to cost $25K. Now you are $35K for something similar

Sure about that? My 01 Ltd runner came with original window sticker, near $38k someone paid. Too much IMO, so I like to buy used, pay 20% of original price for 60-70% of life left, woohoo! :cowboy:
 
Sure about that? My 01 Ltd runner came with original window sticker, near $38k someone paid. Too much IMO, so I like to buy used, pay 20% of original price for 60-70% of life left, woohoo! :cowboy:

This is a great example. The 4R in Limited trim is a step above a decent car and ran the line of luxury/truck which increased it's cost. A RWD SR5 from 2001 had a base MSRP of 26K. A 2018 Base SR5 4R now costs $34.5K, with likely higher dest. cost compared to 2001.

That's a 40% increase in 17 years, or 2.3% per year increase.

The limited hasn't increased nearly as much. A 2018 4x4 Limited starts at $45K vs $36K from 2001. That's only 25% increase, 1.4%/yr.

Now one might argue that Toyota plans that make more money on the higher end model with more expensive options/add-ones to recoup the extra 15% gap. Toyota also got smart with their vehicle offers in 2010-2012 as well.

They basically force buyers into a more expensive vehicle if they want a larger engine. Example.

If you want an suv with V6, you are now forced into a highlander/4Runner, which are obviously more vehicle and more money than a Rav 4. If you want a v8, now you are forced into a Sequoia, which is more money and more vehicle than the 4R. Their pricing structure also reflects this lineup. At the end of the day, the base 4R cost has rose significantly, along with many other vehicles.
 
I'm checking with my bank today on the financing.
I have not haggled with them much yet. They wanted to give me $1500 for my 99 Limited - granted it does need the exhaust (cat) and all so that's about $1000 right there. Not sure if I should keep it and do the work or let it go (the 99) as much as I love the damn thing.
I did get them to say they'd plate it so my mechanic can look at it. and it has a 15 day/500 mile warranty even.
I'm just on the verge of saying buy it, keep the 99, and see how it all pans out. I'm sure I could sell the 99 if needed.

You guys have been a ton of help with things to think of, look for etc. Thanks so much!
 
They seem to be right on target with the pricing according to NADA and KBB. Im talking to the bank today to see about financing.
They offered me $1500 for my 99 Limited so not sure if I should trade or keep her. She does need an exhaust which is about $1000 since I can't do the work myself.
I'm up on the fence a bit here.
Love my 99 but this 06 is much more truck with similar features.
 
That 99 has to be worth more than $1500 on the open market... right?
Someone up there should give you $2k easy, I would think.
Hate to see you lose money on the trade.

I would think the 06 must be decent, otherwise the Acura dealer would have dumped it wholesale to a used car lot.
Looks like fulltime 4hi with 4lo being an option. Just like my Sport Edition.
I'd make sure the TB/WP were done on time. Should have a sticker on the engine on date/mileage it was done, but no engine pics so can't tell. Look for golden color to brake fluid to know it's been maintained. Good luck.
 
That 99 has to be worth more than $1500 on the open market... right?
Someone up there should give you $2k easy, I would think.
Hate to see you lose money on the trade.

I would think the 06 must be decent, otherwise the Acura dealer would have dumped it wholesale to a used car lot.
Looks like fulltime 4hi with 4lo being an option. Just like my Sport Edition.
I'd make sure the TB/WP were done on time. Should have a sticker on the engine on date/mileage it was done, but no engine pics so can't tell. Look for golden color to brake fluid to know it's been maintained. Good luck.

I was kinda thinking the same. even if I part her out i could get maybe $2K or so.
I did do some back checking and looks like the tb/wp were done but can't be 100%. If the dealer doesn't know then I'm using that as leverage to get the price down by $1000 or so. Then I can feel decent about it.
this young guy keeps on saying, well it is an older truck. Makes me want to smack him. He has no admiration for 'vintage' - like me - LOL
 
I would think that with a little exhaust work you could easily get $3K for it as long as it is in good shape.

The 06 is nice, I'd buy it today if I was in the Windy City but I never finance an automobile over 8 years old.

Hoepfully the 4th gen board has been helpful.
 
I'm checking with my bank today on the financing.
I have not haggled with them much yet. They wanted to give me $1500 for my 99 Limited - granted it does need the exhaust (cat) and all so that's about $1000 right there. Not sure if I should keep it and do the work or let it go (the 99) as much as I love the damn thing.
I did get them to say they'd plate it so my mechanic can look at it. and it has a 15 day/500 mile warranty even.
I'm just on the verge of saying buy it, keep the 99, and see how it all pans out. I'm sure I could sell the 99 if needed.

You guys have been a ton of help with things to think of, look for etc. Thanks so much!

Hows the rust and shape of the 99? Miles? You can do the whole exhaust- Cat, Muffler, Tail piece for $500 yourself. I just did the muffler on mine and it was only like $165 for parts.

Want me to go and lowball the dealer right before you walk in again :pound:
 
Mine's a year older, same condition, except no rust, lighter and cheaper to run (no 4wd).
I'd be lucky to get $5K for it. So I'll keep it for another couple years.

If there is a lot of rust, I'd run away from this one.
 
Do you happen to have a good link for the 4x4 operating run down? I figured out the 4H and diff lock but didn't test the 4Lo and messed with 2Lo but couldn't figure that out on the fly.
Not sure where the transfer case actuator is, but I'll white glove it.

There is no 2lo because it's a V8 (they are either 2wd or full time 4wd), it's full time 4wd so you only have 4hi and 4lo. If you put it in 4lo and then into drive and the light blinks and it beeps, it's not engaging (pretty pricy for a new actuator). You can also hear/feel it, same with the center diff.

Open the sunroof and check for rust too. Just by the amount of rust on the hitch, I'm assuming it's covered in rust. If there is more than a little rust I don't think that is considered "good" condition- if you read kbb definitions.

I also got that stupid excuse all the time when asking about rust- "it's an older vehicle". Sorry but old doesn't = rust, and they might also be a lot more willing to BS you if you are female.

I would take it to a toyota dealership and get a pre-purchase inspection before you buy it, if they don't let you do that then I would walk away.

And check if it has XREAS also, that is expensive to replace too.
 
Hows the rust and shape of the 99? Miles? You can do the whole exhaust- Cat, Muffler, Tail piece for $500 yourself. I just did the muffler on mine and it was only like $165 for parts.

Want me to go and lowball the dealer right before you walk in again :pound:

LOL - that'd be nice. My 99 is medium rusty so as for the cat/muffler I would do it if I had help/confidence I wouldn't get crushed. I also don't have enough tools to get things done.

Think I've decided to just keep old rusty awhile longer, fix her exhaust and keep on driving it around the block. All in anticipation of the trans going to hell because that is Karma and Karma is a b^&CH!! :tea:
 
I'd go for it!

Well I actually did, at a Toyota Dealership, they included a new timing belt and water pump, and took care of the recalls, re-flashed the ECU. I snagged it off the trailer.

All leather seats of this vintage have delamination, at that location of the seat from what I have seen. The seat can be repaired. Add fresh foam cushion as well.

I have not seen another 06 V8 T4R as nice, until this one.

Sorry I am biased.. :naughty:
 
Do you happen to have a good link for the 4x4 operating run down? I figured out the 4H and diff lock but didn't test the 4Lo and messed with 2Lo but couldn't figure that out on the fly.
Not sure where the transfer case actuator is, but I'll white glove it.

No 2wd at all on the V8s. Has a Torsen limited slip center diff and it is essentially an AWD system. So not sure what you mean by 2Lo.

You have 4 modes on the V8 - 4Hi unlocked (normal, every day setting), 4Hi locked, 4Lo unlocked, 4Lo locked.

To test 4Hi locked, I believe you have to shift into neutral and be below 5mph to lock the center diff. Shift to N, hit button, look for dash light. When it's solid it is locked. VSC and Trac lights will also illuminate as that disables those. No change to gearing.

To test 4Lo, shift into neutral and be below 5mph and turn knob to 4Lo - lights will come on on the dash for 4Lo. If you are unlocked, you will have no other lights on. If locked, same lights (VSC, Trac, Tires with X) on for locked center diff in 4Hi.


If this all works, its a good sign. As long as you exercise the actuator regularly it'll still work. There are little electric motors in there that get gunked up and that's what freezes.

Stuck actuator is a $2500-3000 bill to fix, if you're unlucky and can't get it unstuck with a rubber mallet... Ask me how I know...
 

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