That's what I can't seem to figure out.
07 fj rear w/elocker in 04 sr5 low range e locker harness
- Thread starter 04run&gun
- Start date
That's what I can't seem to figure out.
Well all might not be lost. I will send you a wiring diagram to help you verify the switch wiring. Do you know if the locker is actually engaged or is the light stuck on? The light is controlled by the small 2 prong plug. That sensor closes when the locker plunger extends. Sometimes those switches get stuck closed and the light stays on.
If the switch only works in one direction you can change the position of 4 wires to make the switch run backwards:
Switch 5 with 6, and 3 with 8.
5 and 6 control the direction of the motor. Positive to 6 and Negetive to 5 Locks the Motor, Negetive to 6 positive to 5 unlocks the motor.
3 and 8 originally ran off a timed relay as a safety precaution against burning the motor. They would power off to the motor after a few seconds. That was built into the chassis computer and now with your harness are powered when you depress the switch.
Before doing any of that though. Double check that wires are connected correctly.

So this is what I got from low range.
If the switch only works in one direction you can change the position of 4 wires to make the switch run backwards:
Switch 5 with 6, and 3 with 8.
5 and 6 control the direction of the motor. Positive to 6 and Negetive to 5 Locks the Motor, Negetive to 6 positive to 5 unlocks the motor.
3 and 8 originally ran off a timed relay as a safety precaution against burning the motor. They would power off to the motor after a few seconds. That was built into the chassis computer and now with your harness are powered when you depress the switch.
Before doing any of that though. Double check that wires are connected correctly.

So this is what I got from low range.
Hopefully this helps. That is how I made my own harness.
Well I'm not using a factory switch. Mine is from lowrange and it has ten prongs on the back.
Nyc-Runner
New member
Thanks man! It's a work in progress.. Mileage is usually between 14 and 16. I had my the Fj 3rd member rebuilt with 4.56s and i got a front clamshell to match so hopefully that will help with the mileage a little bit.
That's awesome. I want to do the same thing but I have 390 gears. I almost feel like I'm better off trading it in for one with 373s and a 5 spd.
Anyone out there in t4r land have 456 gears under a 4 spd auto 4.0 v6? Did you basically go find 373 diff housings and rebuild them with 456? Can you use the same axles or do you have to replace those as well.
As far as the main topic of this post. Lowrange offroad says either take the wrap off the harness and rewire it or send it back to have tested. Looks like a couple more months of waiting on these guys.WTF
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truckhigh
New member
no it not a dumb question. just need more info and you didn't say if the motor is actually turning. You can take off the motor and test to see if the motor is bad or your wiring. if your getting a signal to the motor and get nothing then its the motor. Its hard to say its not the switch either cause you really should of stuffed it through a firewall. the plugs come out and you should of just fed the wires.
Ya I wanted to but half the wires are the same color and I didn't want to mix them up. The harness is getting sent back so they can sort it out since the colors on the diagram and the colors of my harness are completely different. Unwrapping the harness and tracing the wires isn't my thing. What I told the guys at low range is that if wanted to wire my own harness I would have done so with a factory switch and not given them $200
I was actually refering to my question asking if anyone has done 456 gears in a 4spd auto. And since the 4spd has 390 gears what all does it take to get this accomplished?
BlackWorksInc
New member
So is the gear thinner/different to accommodate the locker, or they just chose a different ratio?
truckhigh
New member
i think he is confusing the front and rear diff. The only rear diff problem with thick gears is when people were using an oem 4.56 gear out of a non-8in rear end. but the aftermarket makes gears now causing no problems anymore. this page clears up everything in the top about the front diff/clamshell
2007-2014 FJ Cruiser Differential Parts | Ring and Pinion | Lockers
I like low range off road they have been really easy to deal with. the harness they supply could of been made wrong. But, that could of been cleared up if you test signal at the motor. Then you would of been able to know if the motor is bad or the wiring. It just looked as if you didn't by your post.
I didn't test it no. I don't have a tester. Lazy excuse I know. But shouldn't the switch still blink if it's told to enguage and can't because of the motor being bad? Or are you saying that that's not how they work and if the motor is bad the switch will not blink to indicate that it is trying to lock because it basically had to be told by the motor?
As far as the gears. I've read that the carrier is different from the 390s and the 373s and the after market ring and pinion will not fit in the carriers for the 390s. What exactly is the carrier? Is it the entire differential housing or.......?
As far as the gears. I've read that the carrier is different from the 390s and the 373s and the after market ring and pinion will not fit in the carriers for the 390s. What exactly is the carrier? Is it the entire differential housing or.......?
I believe the carrier is different between the 390s and the 373s with or without a factory locker. I didn't intentionally get the fj rear with a factory e locker. That was just the only one in the valley with 390 gears that would replace my bent factory axle.
Agreed, so I unwrapped it and traced wires. Two of the wires where crossed which popped the power fuse. Got her going now and man she's biting some dirt. I let the guys at lowrange know and complimented them on a great disighn.
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