120V AC power outlet

Johnny Utah

New member
Hi-

So i wanted the 120V AC power outlets option on my 4runner, but the dealer didn't have the parts in stock, and i didn't want to wait...

Can you buy the parts online and install them yourself? Or should i take it to the dealer to have them install it. Anybody have any idea how much that would cost for the parts and/or labor?
 
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that is really cool. And thanks for the link. I used to have a power inverter that we used when we went on vacations, but that is not really the road i want to take. The toyota website lists a option, and i think that would be really neat and really clean. I'm pretty much set on going with a factory look.

anybody else?
 
If you want a factory look, you could still use Xiao's method above, except in pic 4 where it shows the actual outlets, take that box apart and install them nice and clean in the plastic somewhere. I if were you and wanted this I would definitely do it myself, the dealer will be a lot.
 
just as a follow up to this. I contacted my dealer about this. I got the service manager involved and he said it would be between $4k and $6k! :roadkill:

He said, they would have to buy a bunch of different plastic pieces and moldings, and then the labor cost. I'd be interested to know what kind of inverter they put in there.

Needless to say, i was bummed, as i seem to recall the option only being a few hundred bucks on the 4runner website. Oh well. :happens:
 
just as a follow up to this. I contacted my dealer about this. I got the service manager involved and he said it would be between $4k and $6k!

Wow, $4-6k , are they serious? I'm shocked it would be THAT expensive. I guess certain options are better installed at factory when the vehicle is being put together. Sorry you can't do that, I do find it pretty useful in my truck albeit only allows 100 watts while moving.
 
I would think twice about getting it. I have had a AC outlet in my Tacoma and it does not power much and I suspect the 4Runner is the same. If you truly want a Inverter then install one yourself.

What would you use it for?
 
If you are going to install one yourself, you might want to check on warranty implications. I had a different car company's service depart tell me they would not install it and because it would not be stock, the warranty might be affected....
 
just as a follow up to this. I contacted my dealer about this. I got the service manager involved and he said it would be between $4k and $6k! :roadkill:

He said, they would have to buy a bunch of different plastic pieces and moldings, and then the labor cost. I'd be interested to know what kind of inverter they put in there.

Needless to say, i was bummed, as i seem to recall the option only being a few hundred bucks on the 4runner website. Oh well. :happens:

It's probably that expensive because your truck is not wired for it.They have 3 or 4 different wiring harnesses for the 5ths, depending on options, that are put in as the truck comes down the assembly line.They would have to change the wiring harnesses and I could see the labor being off the charts.

A better more powerful pure sine inverter could be custom installed for way cheaper.Do your research on inverters though as they are NOT all created equal. http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/inverter_faq.html I've been researching to put a 1000w or 1500w in now.
 
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Most devices have a transformer negating the need to have a "clean" power source. The website lists a laptop as one of the "sensitive" pieces of equipment. I don't think you'll find any laptop made today that runs off of 120V potential.

Like I said..... do your research !Yes , for your Christmas wreath any inverter would be fine.

Pure sine inverters are a much better choice if you are putting it in permanent and can afford the little more they cost over a modified sine inverter.They will run everything ,same as your household AC and are much more efficient,run cooler, thus less fan noise and easier on your battery source.
Visit Expedition Portal forum or any of the boat forums and read....
 
I agree with Harper.. I've got a pure sine wave inverter that I bought from DonRowe.com. I now have two outlets under the passenger seat and my inverter doesn't get hot even under a continuous load. They aren't cheap, but neither is frying your laptop with a cheap autozone inverter..
 
Wow, $4-6k , are they serious? I'm shocked it would be THAT expensive. I guess certain options are better installed at factory when the vehicle is being put together. Sorry you can't do that, I do find it pretty useful in my truck albeit only allows 100 watts while moving.

Yeah, i thought he was going to tell me $500 max, which even then i thought $500 sounded too high. When he said $4k-$6k I was like "get the hell outta here!"

I would think twice about getting it. I have had a AC outlet in my Tacoma and it does not power much and I suspect the 4Runner is the same. If you truly want a Inverter then install one yourself.

What would you use it for?

In my mind, i'd use it to blow up a air matress out in the woods, so my girlfriend would be interested in going camping with me. I would want to bring one of those aero-bed ones that she likes, and i would need to blow it up out there, to save room for other supplies, etc.

If you are going to install one yourself, you might want to check on warranty implications. I had a different car company's service depart tell me they would not install it and because it would not be stock, the warranty might be affected....

I have no doubt i could install an inverter myself, as i've ran 6GA and 8GA wire from the battery to various speaker amps and subs back in the day. We even ran everything under the carpet, so no wires were exposed. We had fuses, crossovers and the works. I think we were talking about getting a capacitor in there too.

It's probably that expensive because your truck is not wired for it.They have 3 or 4 different wiring harnesses for the 5ths, depending on options, that are put in as the truck comes down the assembly line.They would have to change the wiring harnesses and I could see the labor being off the charts.

A better more powerful pure sine inverter could be custom installed for way cheaper.Do your research on inverters though as they are NOT all created equal. Inverter FAQ - DonRowe.com - Frequently Asked Questions about Power Inverters I've been researching to put a 1000w or 1500w in now.


Yeah, even though the factory inverter is "clean", i'm sure it is underpowered. I'll definitely have a look at your link, thanks for posting that. Back in college, we just picked up a cheap 400 to 800 watt inverter from wal-mart. I think it was like $100.00. I know that i'll be looking for something of much higher quality when the time comes.


Most devices have a transformer negating the need to have a "clean" power source. The website lists a laptop as one of the "sensitive" pieces of equipment. I don't think you'll find any laptop made today that runs off of 120V potential.

Gotcha. thanks for the info.

OP -- did you laugh when the service guys said $4-6k?

You could hire a P.E. contractor to do that for you and it'd be less than half of that cost.

Yeah, it was a bit ridiculous. He was the maintence manager and he supposedly took the time to figure out all the parts, and stuff that i would need.

Like I said..... do your research !Yes , for your Christmas wreath any inverter would be fine.

Pure sine inverters are a much better choice if you are putting it in permanent and can afford the little more they cost over a modified sine inverter.They will run everything ,same as your household AC and are much more efficient,run cooler, thus less fan noise and easier on your battery source.
Visit Expedition Portal forum or any of the boat forums and read....

I agree with Harper.. I've got a pure sine wave inverter that I bought from DonRowe.com. I now have two outlets under the passenger seat and my inverter doesn't get hot even under a continuous load. They aren't cheap, but neither is frying your laptop with a cheap autozone inverter..

Thanks for this. Yeah, when i do it. I'm going to do it right. I'll check out those links and forum. Thanks fellas.
 
Johnny, just get a battery powered bed pump and save thousands.

I am kind of glad my girlfriend wont go camping with me. That is why I go.
 
Some things to keep in mind when choosing an inverter.

*) Get as much power as you can afford, and at least 1Kw continuous. Once you start using it for your initial plans you'll find you want to use it for other things and might find you don't have the power.

*) Read the specs carefully. An inverter advertised as 1Kw might be only 1Kw peak and 750 watts continuous.

*) Do a lot of research on the inverters RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). Many inverters put out a lot of RFI that can interfere with CBs, Ham radio, cell phones and even your stereo.

*) When installing, go directly to the battery for the primary power/ground and use wire at least one gauge heavier than recommended. Don't forget an in-line fuse, preferably on both power and ground (to protect against surges).

*) Get a pure sine wave unit vs modified sine wave if you can afford it.
 
If your secure your inverter somewhere other than your engine compartment, I wouldn't run an extra cable for GND -- using the car's frame is easier and safer.

Also, more power output isn't always better -- your alternator is the only thing that determines steady state power output.
Sorry, but I disagree.
NEVER install an inverter in the engine compartment. The instructions for everyone I've seen says to install it in a dry location where temps don't exceed 120F (some are even less). The instructions always also say to connect directly to the battery for the main power and ground and to connect the inverters chassis ground to the vehicle chassis. These are major safety issues and most inverters have explicit warnings to the same.

While the chassis can handle the current it does NOT provide a low resistance ground for the main current. Even in a new vehicle you will see resistance between the battery's ground and the chassis on the opposite side of the engine compartment and it gets worse as the vehicle gets older. The chassis connection is for safety and helps reduce RFI. For both safety and performance, the ground lead must never have a higher resistance than the positive lead. That is why they always say to connect directly to the battery.

The alternator does not give steady state power. It give no power at all when the engine is off and may not provide all current when the engine is idling and the inverter is under heavy load.

As to the size of the inverter, a 1Kw inverter will let you run a coffee maker when camping or power tools. If someone needs 3Kw I would question why and suggest using a generator if they only need it part time when parked but as a rule of thumb, sizing it to about twice your initial expected needs will serve most peoples needs for the long run.
 
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Please explain why a fuse would ever be needed on the ground? I have been involved in automotive electronics for over 20 years and have never heard of such a thing. Never to old to learn new things so whatsupwiththat?
 
Please explain why a fuse would ever be needed on the ground? I have been involved in automotive electronics for over 20 years and have never heard of such a thing. Never to old to learn new things so whatsupwiththat?
I had a feeling someone would ask this. It's an old Ham trick to protect the equipment from ground-fault currents on devices directly connected to the battery (additional safety or overkill if you prefer). In fact, many ham radios these days come with fuses on both sides right from the factory.

Personally, I'm not 100% convinced it's really an issue, but this is how it's recommended so I pass it along in case it will help or protect someone else.

An example of the problem:
If a negative lead were to fail (corrosion around a battery can take its toll as just one example), the starter current or current from other high current devices (depending on where the failure is) can flow through the protected device’s negative power lead. Fusing the negative lead protects the device from this.
 
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Sorry, but I disagree.
NEVER install an inverter in the engine compartment. The instructions for everyone I've seen says to install it in a dry location where temps don't exceed 120F (some are even less). The instructions always also say to connect directly to the battery for the main power and ground and to connect the inverters chassis ground to the vehicle chassis. These are major safety issues and most inverters have explicit warnings to the same.

While the chassis can handle the current it does NOT provide a low resistance ground for the main current. Even in a new vehicle you will see resistance between the battery's ground and the chassis on the opposite side of the engine compartment and it gets worse as the vehicle gets older. The chassis connection is for safety and helps reduce RFI. For both safety and performance, the ground lead must never have a higher resistance than the positive lead. That is why they always say to connect directly to the battery.

The alternator does not give steady state power. It give no power at all when the engine is off and may not provide all current when the engine is idling and the inverter is under heavy load.

As to the size of the inverter, a 1Kw inverter will let you run a coffee maker when camping or power tools. If someone needs 3Kw I would question why and suggest using a generator if they only need it part time when parked but as a rule of thumb, sizing it to about twice your initial expected needs will serve most peoples needs for the long run.

wow, lots of good info in here. thanks for the tips and ill be sure to attach the pos and neg to the battery and ground the inverter to the truck

thank you sir
 

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