14.6 MPG - 2014 SR5 - After lift and tires....

[FrontRange4Runner]

Also keep in mind that you have lifted your vehicle 3 inches and I'm assuming that you also leveled it. This combine with a bigger roof rack will have a significant impact on MPG. Making the 4Runner more of a brick than it already is will impact millage, especially at higher speeds. Drag increases exponentially with speed - IE of your speed doubles, your drag has quadrupled. Combine this with bigger, heavier tires that most likely have a greater rolling resistance and you have a recipe for crap MPG. Ask any of the guys with heavily modded Runners and I'm sure they will all say it's totally normal, because it is. If you were able to pull stock numbers with that many mods then Toyota F'ed up big time and should have rated it much higher. If it makes you feel any better my only mod that would affect MPG is E rated AT tires and I went from 21 on my first tank to around 19.5 for the rest of the fills. (All that drag talk makes me wonder how much fuel my stubby antenna is saving me.... .001 mpg? Ill take it!)

 

[NoDak]

What app is this NoDak?

aCar - zonewalker

 

[Bilbo]

When Toyota releases the EPA estimated mpg for a '15 TRD Pro with modest lift, Bilstein, and Nitto Terra Grapplers, that should provide a pretty good benchmark for the mileage of a modded T4R.

 

[J Hoss]

My '13 TE - Ive been getting <16-17mpg since I bought it 13k miles ago. Ive always been a fast driver in my cars, but realized if you keep the tach under 2500 rpm (impossible for me to do for a full tank so far) that 17-18.1mpg with a ~60/40 hwy city mix.

I tell myself, "don't drive like a dick, self ", and anything is possible. :embarassed:

 

[G8RB8_12SR5]

Been following these debates and deciding how to mod from there. I starting with a Yakima roof basket and found I couldn't get any higher than 19 no matter how hard i tried (around 18 in the city). Without it I get about 19.5-20 60/40 hwy/city mixed and about 22-23mpg straight highway. Decided only to put the roof basket on when I needed it. Next will be wheels and tires. Going with lighter wheels and slightly heavier tires (probably SR8s and Cooper AT3s - stock size load "C"). Yes it will move the weight away from the center and more toward the outside and I expect a modest hit in MPG even with increased tire pressure to balance it out. Lift is still up in the air (pun intended) till I do more off-roading and decide if it's necesssary (along with skids) for what I'm doing with it. For the amount of time I'm on the highway right now, it's not worth it, yet.

It's all about adjusting expectations and realizing what you're really going to use the truck for. I think that's the biggest misconception people have, especially when you get caught up (myself included) in the epic build threads on here and want to do more, but you might not actually use it.

 

[Moving Chicane]

With the 33's and Icon lift PLUS large ARB roof rack (heavy, noisy, large profile) I get 14.8-15.5 MPG. Seems to be getting a bit better (+0.2MPG) maybe) at 26K miles.

That all said, 70MPH is where I can kill MPG. Faster than 70MPH and the MPG falls, under 70MPH and the MPG slowly creeps upward.

 

[kdcold]

Big mpg drop with lift/wheels/tires

You get 14.6!?!? Ha. I'm right there with you guys. Bought my 2011 used with 42K mi. Drove stock height & SR5 rims/tires for over a year, best I ever got on a tank was right at 20mpg, usually around 18 (I'm a little heavy-footed). Odometer mileage always pretty accurate with my pump calculations.

Two months ago I go all OME 3" lift like you, and 20x9s with 275/60R20 Toyo ATs. Haven't seen a tank where the odo says more than 14.6 yet. That's with no roof rack, and same nerf bars I had all along.

They're right about your speedo/odo being off by about 3.5%, so watch your speed on the highway.

Love your rig...it's what I wish I'd have done in every way.

Keep the green ECO light on, and stay in Party Mode!

 

[Neauxla]

Yall are lucky. My limited w/ full time 4WD get's 16.4 mpg STOCK

 

[Bad_Influence]

i have a 2.5" front lift and 1'' in the rear. I also have 285/70r17 p-metric nitro terra tires with no other mods that would affect mpg. Those tires only weigh 46 lbs each brand new and perform great in all conditions! Best snow A/T tire i have ever used!!
Originally before the lift and tires my odometer read out an average of 18.9 mpg. It now reads out that I am getting 17.7 with all the add ons. If i do the math and give room for a little error for the compensation of the mpg being thrown off about 3-4% I figure i lost about 0.7 mpg... not too shabby!! *hoping nobody checks my math*

 

[onebad4runner96]

i have a 2.5" front lift and 1'' in the rear. I also have 285/70r17 p-metric nitro terra tires with no other mods that would affect mpg. Those tires only weigh 46 lbs each brand new and perform great in all conditions! Best snow A/T tire i have ever used!!
Originally before the lift and tires my odometer read out an average of 18.9 mpg. It now reads out that I am getting 17.7 with all the add ons. If i do the math and give room for a little error for the compensation of the mpg being thrown off about 3-4% I figure i lost about 0.7 mpg... not too shabby!! *hoping nobody checks my math*

thats terrible mileage,
i saw this post on recents so i thought id give some insight to what i have witnessed since owning my runner. the easiest install for better gas mileage before i went cutting up my exhaust system was my TRD CAI. I was getting 17.9 just with the lift and tires and after the install of TRD and AirAid's throttle body i was getting about 18.6

The power mainly increases from these upgrades at WOT (wide open throttle)

There has been myths to as if a CAI does anything except add a badass whislte sound at around 1800-2200 RPMs but i have seen a difference first hand, manually calculated and my computer.
URDUSA recommends the aFe CAI or a TRD CAI. I added a throttle body spacer and i coast alot in neutral down hill and rolling up to red lights or stop signs, if you add weight your gas mileage will drop significantly. Tires make a difference also I recommend wrangler pro grade silent armor 285-70-17.
you also have to take in account that its summertime now, the gas is alittle more efficent.
I get about 21-22.7 was the highest this fall/spring/summer tires
*try a tank of plus instead of regular your engine will run alittle better.

 

[Bad_Influence]

"*try a tank of plus instead of regular your engine will run alittle better."

If you are putting anything more than 87 octane in your tank, you are wasting 10 cents per gallon in my opinion. Unless I am misinformed and things have changed, there is no reason to put higher octane gas in these vehicles. Anybody want to add to this?

 

[onebad4runner96]

With the 33's and Icon lift PLUS large ARB roof rack (heavy, noisy, large profile) I get 14.8-15.5 MPG. Seems to be getting a bit better (+0.2MPG) maybe) at 26K miles.

That all said, 70MPH is where I can kill MPG. Faster than 70MPH and the MPG falls, under 70MPH and the MPG slowly creeps upward.

I find that too at anything over 2220-2500RMP will lower it, i love flooring it in 1st sport mode with trac off.

 

[Muddy Duck]

Yes, our engines are designed for 87 octane. Higher octane will give you no added benefit.

Also, if you switch from P-metric tires (stock) to LT tires you should be running 12-18 pounds more air in your tires. This will help with MPG as well as longevity of the tires.

 

[Muddy Duck]

More on octane:

Octane rating or octane number is a standard measure of the performance of a motor or aviation fuel. The higher the octane number, the more compression the fuel can withstand before detonating (igniting). In broad terms, fuels with a higher octane rating are used in high performance petrol engines that require higher compression ratios. In contrast, fuels with lower octane numbers (but higher cetane numbers) are ideal for diesel engines, because diesel engines (also referred to as compression-ignition engines) do not compress the fuel but rather compress only air and then inject the fuel into the air heated up by compression, whereas petrol engines (also referred to as gasoline engines) rely on ignition of air and fuel compressed together as a mixture without ignition, which is then ignited at the end of the compression stroke using spark plugs.

A common misconception is that power output or fuel efficiency can be improved by burning fuel of higher octane than that specified by the engine manufacturer. The power output of an engine depends in part on the energy density of the fuel being burnt. Fuels of different octane ratings may have similar densities, but because switching to a higher octane fuel does not add more hydrocarbon content or oxygen, the engine cannot develop more power.

(I'm not that smart, this all came from Wikipedia: search octane)

 

[Jeremy556]

Yes, our engines are designed for 87 octane. Higher octane will give you no added benefit.

Actually, they are designed for 91, but run fine on 87, albeit making less power. Toyota specs 87 so that "requires premium fuel" isn't a negative attribute in every review and comparison.

Wikipedia

1GR-FE

1GR-FE 4.0 L V6 from a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
The 1GR-FE is the 4.0 L (3956 cc) version, designed for longitudinal mounting in RWD and 4WD pickup applications. It has a 94 mm bore and a stroke of 95 mm. Output is 236 hp (176 kW) at 5200 rpm with 266 lb·ft (361 N·m) of torque at 4000 rpm on 87 octane, and 239 hp (178 kW) at 5200 rpm with 278 lb·ft (377 N·m) at 3700 rpm on 91 octane. This engine features Toyota's VVT-i, variable valve timing system on the intake cam and a compression ratio of 10.0:1. Service weight, including fluids, is 166 kg (366 lb).

An updated version of this engine features Dual VVT-i, increasing output to 254 hp (189 kW) and 270 lb·ft (366 N·m) on 87 octane and 285 hp (213 kW) and 289 lb·ft (392 N·m) on 91 octane. Inside, the 1GR uses a "taper-squish" combustion chamber design with matching pistons to improve anti-knocking and engine performance, while also improving intake and fuel efficiency. Toyota adopted a siamese-type intake port, which reduces the surface area of the port walls and prevents fuel from adhering to such walls. This engine has special cast-iron cylinder liners cast into the block, which are a spiny type to improve adhesion between the liner and cylinder block. With these special thin liners it is impossible to bore the block. In the event of cylinder wall damage (scoring, deep protrusions, etc.), the entire cylinder block must be replaced. For increased block rigidity, the 1GR also receives a high temperature plastic insulator/protector, which fills the empty space between the outer portion of the cylinders and block material common to open deck engines. For increased cooling efficiency, the 1GR employs water passages between the bores of the engine. There are two such passages for each bank for a total of four. This reduces cylinder hot-spotting and keeps combustion chamber temperatures more uniform.

 

[Texas777]

"*try a tank of plus instead of regular your engine will run alittle better."

If you are putting anything more than 87 octane in your tank, you are wasting 10 cents per gallon in my opinion. Unless I am misinformed and things have changed, there is no reason to put higher octane gas in these vehicles. Anybody want to add to this?

This has been debated on many threads, so I won't get into the effect of octane here. But I will mention that depending on the grade of gasoline you buy, there is a difference in the amount of detergent contained in the gasoline, even within the same brand. Higher octane fuels often contain higher levels of detergent. More detergent = cleaner fuel injectors, combusiton chamber, etc. = better mileage. Not all gasoline is created equal (huge understatement), and here is why I make that comment.

There is an organization known as "Top Tier" Top Tier Gasoline that promotes the production and use of higher quality gasoline which benefits the OEM's, consumer, and gasoline retailers alike. Not all producers/marketers/retailers participate in this program. Those that do produce higher quality gasoline. Those that don't market fungible fuel (mutually interchangeable between brands) that is treated at the LAC (Lowest Additive Concentration) as mandated by the federal government. Their target market is the undeucated buyer who's buying decision is based largely on price, with little regard for anything else as a motivator to buy, with the exception of maybe convenience. This is the "gas is gas" mentality.

The Top Tier organization's goal is to educate the consumer on the benefits of higher quality gasoline. Based on research, the number of people who take the time to study and understand the effect fuel quality can have on their vehicle is about 1 in 10. Automotive forum members (like those here) are typically the 1 in 10 they have identified. It's people that are enthusiasts, and care about their vehicles beyond just car washes and oil changes at whatever interval their owners manual or quick lube sticker recommends.

An example of LAC vs. Top Tier....lets say the government requires a lowest addditive(detergent) concentration of 25 lbs. of detergent/1000 barrels of gasoline. This is the least amount that can be added by law. The Top Tier rate may be 2.5x LAC, or 62.5 lbs. of detergent/1000 barrels. Obviously a big difference in what 7 leading auto manufacturers have identified as an acceptable minimum vs, the federal government. I'd trust an OEM to tell me what's best to use in my vehicle long before I'd leave it up to the federal government to be a credible source.

Sorry for the long post, but not all gasoline is created equal, and I thought this audience would be able to appreciate this fact. Personally, I run 91 or 93 Octane in my Trail, not for the Octane number, but for the detergent/additive content. I've spent an extra $15-20/month on worse things than keeping my fuel system and combusiton chamber as clean as I can....and its cheaper in the long run than having to have your injectors professionally cleaned (or even worse - replaced), or buying a bottle of Techron or other detergent from your local auto parts store to pour in one tank of gas, which won't do the same as cleaning/keeping clean via every tank of fuel you burn.

 

[1engineer]

thats terrible mileage,
i saw this post on recents so i thought id give some insight to what i have witnessed since owning my runner. the easiest install for better gas mileage before i went cutting up my exhaust system was my TRD CAI. I was getting 17.9 just with the lift and tires and after the install of TRD and AirAid's throttle body i was getting about 18.6

The power mainly increases from these upgrades at WOT (wide open throttle)

There has been myths to as if a CAI does anything except add a badass whislte sound at around 1800-2200 RPMs but i have seen a difference first hand, manually calculated and my computer.
URDUSA recommends the aFe CAI or a TRD CAI. I added a throttle body spacer and i coast alot in neutral down hill and rolling up to red lights or stop signs, if you add weight your gas mileage will drop significantly. Tires make a difference also I recommend wrangler pro grade silent armor 285-70-17.
you also have to take in account that its summertime now, the gas is alittle more efficent.
I get about 21-22.7 was the highest this fall/spring/summer tires
*try a tank of plus instead of regular your engine will run alittle better.

Oh My! There is so much wrong in this post I don't know where to start! Here's a few:

..."the easiest install for better gas mileage before i went cutting up my exhaust system was my TRD CAI."
Your 4Runner comes with a CAI. Any changes, such as adding an aftermarket CAI or such that changes airflow will just cause the ECU to adjust its ignition parameters. So, your aftermarket CAI don't do squat for efficiency or power. You say you did the math: How about the parameters? Did you drive it for at least a year to account for all driving conditions with both the stock and the new CAI? Did you make sure no other parameters (tires, location, etc) have changed? You need to change a LOT of things to increase HP and efficiency on a 4Runner. The throttle body and ECU would be a good place to start.

..."you also have to take in account that its summertime now, the gas is alittle more efficent."
Gas is no more efficient in the winter or the summer. Gas is gas. Read this http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/102219-winter-gas-explained.html for information.


..."I was getting 17.9 just with the lift and tires and after the install of TRD and AirAid's throttle body i was getting about 18.6"
Do you not think that for a whopping (huge really) 4% increase in efficiency all for a different CAI that Toyota would not be all over this??? They spend millions for a half a percent increase! C'mon man.

..."if you add weight your gas mileage will drop significantly."
There you go. This one is correct.

Seriously, don't perpetuate these myths. If you want to comment and help then by all means, go for it but try to do a little research first so you don't steer others down the wrong path.

You might have truly witnessed an increase in efficiency for yourself but it was not the CAI's fault. Something else did it (driving style, route, etc) and you assumed it was your CAI.

 

[RCFJ]

Oh My! There is so much wrong in this post I don't know where to start! Here's a few:

..."the easiest install for better gas mileage before i went cutting up my exhaust system was my TRD CAI."
Your 4Runner comes with a CAI. Any changes, such as adding an aftermarket CAI or such that changes airflow will just cause the ECU to adjust its ignition parameters. So, your aftermarket CAI don't do squat for efficiency or power. You say you did the math: How about the parameters? Did you drive it for at least a year to account for all driving conditions with both the stock and the new CAI? Did you make sure no other parameters (tires, location, etc) have changed? You need to change a LOT of things to increase HP and efficiency on a 4Runner. The throttle body and ECU would be a good place to start.

..."you also have to take in account that its summertime now, the gas is alittle more efficent."
Gas is no more efficient in the winter or the summer. Gas is gas. Read this http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/102219-winter-gas-explained.html for information.


..."I was getting 17.9 just with the lift and tires and after the install of TRD and AirAid's throttle body i was getting about 18.6"
Do you not think that for a whopping (huge really) 4% increase in efficiency all for a different CAI that Toyota would not be all over this??? They spend millions for a half a percent increase! C'mon man.

..."if you add weight your gas mileage will drop significantly."
There you go. This one is correct.

Seriously, don't perpetuate these myths. If you want to comment and help then by all means, go for it but try to do a little research first so you don't steer others down the wrong path.

You might have truly witnessed an increase in efficiency for yourself but it was not the CAI's fault. Something else did it (driving style, route, etc) and you assumed it was your CAI.

You know, you're kind of an a$$hole. Ive read a lot of your posts and the majority are just like this one, its pretty damn obnoxious. Just because you are an engineer you assume you are smarter than everyone else and know everything about everything. Being an electrical engineer myself i have met a lot of people like you and to a man i cant stand a single one. You may be correct and may be smarter than the rest but keep it to your ****ing self and keep the posts strictly helpful

 

[1engineer]

You know, you're kind of an a$$hole. Ive read a lot of your posts and the majority are just like this one, its pretty damn obnoxious. Just because you are an engineer you assume you are smarter than everyone else and know everything about everything. Being an electrical engineer myself i have met a lot of people like you and to a man i cant stand a single one. You may be correct and may be smarter than the rest but keep it to your ****ing self and keep the posts strictly helpful

You forgot arrogant and self centered man. I have met a lot of people like you too and I can't stand them either. This forum (like others) has an "ignore" feature so instead of reading my posts you can just turn me off! The only reason I am here is to help. I have quit several times because of posts like yours but many members here have texted or called me (yes, we actually communicate) telling me to come back and not listen to those self righteous people who think everyone should all hold hands and sing camp songs while not keeping score in any game ever. Many of the guys who started out feeling just like you do (about my posts) end up "liking" my posts because after awhile, most start to see the humor or relevance to my answers.
So, ignore me or not. I corrected a post and hopefully the poster learned something today about his vehicle. I am who I am, and am the same here as in everyday life.

 

[Texas777]

op2: