$15.00 Off Mobil 1 Oil & Filter
- Thread starter NWA_Dave
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Atlanta_man
New member
You are in Walmart country.
Save yourself at least $8 (drive out price w/ tax and w/o amazon rebate)
Save yourself at least $8 (drive out price w/ tax and w/o amazon rebate)
JohnsD90
New member
Let the leaks begin!
4runsport
New member
NWA_Dave
New member
Thanks, Atlanta_Man!
@ JohnsD90: Leaks? I ain't afraid of no leaks!
@4Runsport: Some speculate that under some conditions, changing over a high-mileage engine to synthetic can lead to leaks.
4runsport
New member
Hmm that's odd. I always thought the rule was once you go synthetic you don't go back, but you can always switch to synthetic at any point. That would be news to me. Personally if he said he was going to get an engine flush done then I would say let the leaks begin... :shrug:
I switched to synthetic at around 190,xxx miles right after I bought my truck. I did notice some minor leak start at the valve covers however after reading here, I tightened them back to specs (I guess they work loose) and no more leak. No other leaks that I have been able to find and I am now at 225,xxx
Nunyabiz
New member
Yep, ANY leaks that you might get from switching to synthetic were ALREADY there to start with, its just that once the synthetic starts cleaning the gunk left by the petroleum you may start noticing those leaks. This is a good thing because if those gaskets go long enough hot and dry they will usually dry up and shrink become brittle. Sometimes the synthetic can stop that by cleaning the gunk so the gaskets can swell back up.
Also with a valve cover leak it could be caused by a malfunctioning PCV valve, I usually replace mine every few years.
NWA_Dave
New member
Any suggestions on PCV valve brand? Is OEM important here? I just checked & cleaned mine, it rattles when shaken...I've read that's how you check them...true?
Nunyabiz
New member
I get them from the Stealership and even there they are still cheap just a few dollars so I don't even bother testing them I just replace.
But I believe you test it by pulling it out of the housing with the car running then place your thumb over the PCV valve opening, when you do you should hear a solid "click" if it sounds weak or mushy then it should be replaced.
You can also do as you say, remove the PCV completely then shake it, you 'should" hear a solid clicking sound when shaken.
I think it is just good practice to go ahead and change it every couple years or so since it is one of those things you can do yourself easily and its cheap insurance.
JohnsD90
New member
Please explain....
Motor running non-syn for its 180k mile life the syn will breakdown and clean the motor of any build ups, and specifically around the tired 10-15 year old motor seals the buildup will get broken down and this will allow the syn oil out of these bad seals.
Nunyabiz
New member
OR will allow fresh oil to be soaked up by the gaskets and swell them back up, if they aren't too far gone.
Either way this rarely ever happens and usually only to engines that have been ridden hard and put away wet.
but it is certainly far more likely for regular petroleum oil to gunk up inside the engine and cause your seals to dry up and shrink though.
I have done this to every engine I have owned since 1977 without a single issue, not a drop leaked.
TheDurk
Elite Member
This is not a sophisticated part. I change mine with the spark plugs at 30k intervals and I use a NAPA CRB 29352 made by Echlin. Costs $4.29. Works fine. It could go longer, but this way I don't forget.
NAPA AUTO PARTS
Yes, that is how you check them. But if it is starting to gum up it is time to change even if the check is still moving. You don't want to wait until it is bad to change it, so just keep to a schedule as Nunyabiz said.
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