197k miles What Maint. needs to be done?
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sonerick
New member
V6 or V8?
If V8, timing belt might need to be done again (should have been done at about 90k and 180k).
If V6, maybe the timing chain needs to be inspected...? Not sure how long those are supposed to last.
Other than that, check the following:
-Brakes (seized caliper pistons are a common issue)
-Make sure it goes into 4lo without issue (have to put it in N for this, should not beep once in 4lo)
-Make sure the center diff lock works
-Make sure there are no leaks from the transfer case, diffs, where the axles enter the diffs, transmission, oil pan, etc.
-Check the coolant to make sure there is no oil in it (for the V6 at least)
Once you get it, I would put all new fluids in it, unless you have proof that this has been done recently (diffs, transfer case, coolant, ps, brakes, oil, maybe trans fluid too.)
Other than that, same as any car I guess. Make sure you test drive it (high speed and low speed). Looks like it comes with some sweet all-weather mats too. Enjoy!
If V8, timing belt might need to be done again (should have been done at about 90k and 180k).
If V6, maybe the timing chain needs to be inspected...? Not sure how long those are supposed to last.
Other than that, check the following:
-Brakes (seized caliper pistons are a common issue)
-Make sure it goes into 4lo without issue (have to put it in N for this, should not beep once in 4lo)
-Make sure the center diff lock works
-Make sure there are no leaks from the transfer case, diffs, where the axles enter the diffs, transmission, oil pan, etc.
-Check the coolant to make sure there is no oil in it (for the V6 at least)
Once you get it, I would put all new fluids in it, unless you have proof that this has been done recently (diffs, transfer case, coolant, ps, brakes, oil, maybe trans fluid too.)
Other than that, same as any car I guess. Make sure you test drive it (high speed and low speed). Looks like it comes with some sweet all-weather mats too. Enjoy!
cleger
New member
Thanks, yeah its a V8 non 4wd. he just did the timing belt and water pump. I am wondering if like shocks and springs.. do they need attention?
Also there are " hot spots" idk the proper term but where it shakes when you stop, a simple new pad and rotor job all around will take care of that, also are there any good break upgrades that I could do to increase breaking power?
Thanks a lot! First thing is to get my iPhone connection kit in cause IM ABOUT TO DIE WITHOUT MY MUSIC! (hate making cds, although a CD on the jbl sys sounds very nice!!)
Thanks man!
If you're going through the trouble of inspecting a chain then you might as well replace it. The hardest part of replacing a chain is just getting to it. If the chain isn't rattling then don't worry about it. The problem with chains is after time they tend to stretch. When they stretch they'll start to rattle a little. If it's NOT rattling then don't worry about it. Also 200k miles is a little early to be worrying about a chain. Maybe 250k miles or more. The problem with a chain is then if you put enough miles on the engine and you do have to replace a chain...the cost is 3-4 times what a timing belt will cost.
sonerick
New member
Shocks and springs are going to be dependent on the ride quality really. If it feels harsh over bumps then it may be time to replace these items.
Shocks are good for 100k miles or so, sometimes more and sometimes less. Usually if they're not leaking fluid then they're still good.
MikeInNH said:
Good info. I was wondering what maint. requirements were associated with a timing chain, specifically how to accurately gauge when it's time to replace one.
In this engine...if the chain does start to rattle..then I'd consider replacing it. This is an interference engine. When a chain stretches it MAY jump teeth...When this happens it could destroy the valves of the engine. But if you do proper oil changes...then you shouldn't have to worry about the chain for at least 250k miles or longer. And as I said..it's very expensive. And because it's a lot more complicated many back yard mechanics won't attempt it. But they will do a timing belt.
cleger
New member
I'm not leaking any fluid just the ride isn't very tight it's kinda sloppy if you know what I mean. Kinda harsh on bumps but mainly its just sloppy.
Thanks for you help
cleger
New member
Okay. So if shocks are bad the become stiff or super soft? I'm having a soft issue.
cleger
New member
Okay thanks! I've been searching throigh the forums here and ballistic shocks seems to be everyone's favorites. I wish I had the money to upgrade to the X-Reas system cause so many people brag about how great they are. What's your opinion.
And I'm kinda not mechanically inclined so do our 4th gen 4Runners have shocks and struts springs or what. What all should I replace during the process?
Thanks a lot!
Cody
sonerick
New member
Front is an IFS setup with strut assemblies, rear is a solid axle setup with shocks and coil springs. XREAS is a nice feature from the factory, but there are aftermarket options that are far less expensive and provide just as good of a ride (if not better).
What are you planning to do with the truck? Will it be mostly on-road, or do you plan to go off-road? This will dictate which direction you should go with your suspension.
What are you planning to do with the truck? Will it be mostly on-road, or do you plan to go off-road? This will dictate which direction you should go with your suspension.
sonerick
New member
Bilstein shocks with either stock coils or FJ coils seems to be a popular option for those that do mostly on-road driving with the occasional off-road jaunt. Check out the suspension sticky, it will give you a better idea of what you have for options: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/102272-4th-gen-suspension-options-faq.html
cleger
New member
Does this mean I have X-REAS
I have lines coming from the top of rear shocks and bottom on the front ones. Also If I follow the lines the go to a part that says Yamaha on it.
cleger
New member
If I wanted to replace the xreas. Can I just do the shocks themselves or does all the lines and the other part have to be replaced?
Also somebody else put sway always and said they were better. Anybody know anything about that?
