No ABS light on but c1223 c1249 c1253 codes

[Jasonredwood]

2006 v8 4runner with about 225k in n the car.
Last week the MAINT light would flash 7 times on start up. Pulled codes c1223, c124, and c1253.
None of the other lights stay on after initial start up. None come on while driving.

After reading a few threads I replaced the break switch and unplugged the battery for about 20 mins.
Drive to a friends house and the MAINT light still flashing 7 times.
Today the MAINT light is on solid.

Feels to be driving fine, accumulator isn’t cycling excessively, it’s not making any noises.
I’ve been running steel wheels for a decade and the tire lights been on the entire time but I doubt that has anything to do with it. Has fresh rotors and pads all around. Still pulling the same codes though.

I’m guessing buying a whole new brake booster unit would be the easiest fix but expensive.

Any suggestions?

 

[Nehrke]

Let me preface by saying I know nothing about nothin. But I believe the flashing maint light is just telling you that you are about due for an oil change. I think it does this at some point (maybe 100 miles) before due, then stays on steady once you reach the 5k interval.

As for the rest - good luck!

 

[Jasonredwood]

Let me preface by saying I know nothing about nothin. But I believe the flashing maint light is just telling you that you are about due for an oil change. I think it does this at some point (maybe 100 miles) before due, then stays on steady once you reach the 5k interval.

As for the rest - good luck!

It can mean anything from a loose gas cap to the earths magnetic pull is reversing.

 

[Az4runnin]

Are you running LED Headlights?

 

[earthrealm]

2006 v8 4runner with about 225k in n the car.
Last week the MAINT light would flash 7 times on start up. Pulled codes c1223, c124, and c1253.
None of the other lights stay on after initial start up. None come on while driving.

After reading a few threads I replaced the break switch and unplugged the battery for about 20 mins.
Drive to a friends house and the MAINT light still flashing 7 times.
Today the MAINT light is on solid.

Feels to be driving fine, accumulator isn’t cycling excessively, it’s not making any noises.
I’ve been running steel wheels for a decade and the tire lights been on the entire time but I doubt that has anything to do with it. Has fresh rotors and pads all around. Still pulling the same codes though.

I’m guessing buying a whole new brake booster unit would be the easiest fix but expensive.

Any suggestions?

nothing wrong with your truck.
maintenance light flashes about 50 to 70 miles before its due for change and then goes solid when its due,,,every 5k miles.

the brake codes since the abs MIL isnt triggered is likely old codes stored in the car

 

[Jasonredwood]

nothing wrong with your truck.
maintenance light flashes about 50 to 70 miles before its due for change and then goes solid when its due,,,every 5k miles.

the brake codes since the abs MIL isnt triggered is likely old codes stored in the car

Interesting. I’ll use a friends code reader and delete those codes.

 

[AuSeeker]

Interesting. I’ll use a friends code reader and delete those codes.

Make sure the code reader does ABS codes, many lesser/cheaper ones do not!

 

[Fatpatnasty]

My '04 is doing something similar but worse. This morning I started it and the ABS, VSC TRAC, TRAC OFF lights all on as well as a high pitched constant alarm that never stops.
Brakes are almost unresponsive and pedal goes to the floor. Scanned the ABS codes and got all this... in pic. Any ideas on where to start? Came outta nowhere was driving fine...

 

[AuSeeker]

My '04 is doing something similar but worse. This morning I started it and the ABS, VSC TRAC, TRAC OFF lights all on as well as a high pitched constant alarm that never stops.
Brakes are almost unresponsive and pedal goes to the floor. Scanned the ABS codes and got all this... in pic. Any ideas on where to start? Came outta nowhere was driving fine...

I had the same thing happen, the cure for me was to replace the ABS/master cylinder assembly, very expensive just for the assembly, but I installed it myself so saved on the labor.

It's most likely only the little electric motor that drives the pump that has gone bad and now there's no pressure to power the ABS and power brakes assist, it could also be the pump itself and or the accumulator, you can buy refurbished motor for around $300 to $500, or you can buy a new OEM motor/pump/accumulator assembly for around $700 to $800, but you could also have an issue with the master cylinder and or the ABS module, there's no way that I know of to test any of these, you can only throw parts at it until it works correctly.

I choose to replace the entire assembly which cost me after shipping $1500, I only have this one vehicle and needed it fixed FAST I didn't have time to throw parts at it, also you have to remove the entire assembly to replace any of the aforementioned parts and I didn't want to have to remove it more than once, so I choose to go all in and get the entire assembly to get it fixed in one day, luckily mine was acting up sporadically, one day it was fine the next day maybe not, but it would sometimes start working and building up pressure within a few minute of running, so I was able to order the part, the day I got the part delivered it stopped working all together, luckily it was on a Friday, I drove the last few miles home from work with no brakes and had to use downshifting and the parking brake to slow down and stop, I installed the new assembly the next day, worked like new, the install wasn't all that bad if you can do basic to moderate mechanical work and will save you the cost of labor which could be as high as maybe $500 to $800.

 

[Fatpatnasty]

Thanks for the reply. Can you tell me where you ordered yours from? I could probably do the install if no specialty tools/scanner is needed. Also not sure if this is related but I just got mine back from having the front end repaired at a body shop after a fender bender... hood, bumper, 1 fender. But it all seemed cosmetic not mechanical...

 

[AuSeeker]

Thanks for the reply. Can you tell me where you ordered yours from? I could probably do the install if no specialty tools/scanner is needed. Also not sure if this is related but I just got mine back from having the front end repaired at a body shop after a fender bender... hood, bumper, 1 fender. But it all seemed cosmetic not mechanical...

I got mine from Toyota Parts Deal, the only thing is you will need a helper to maybe hold the assembly in place while you get the nuts started under the dash, and for sure to work the pedal to bleed the master cylinder after the install, I didn't need to bleed any of the calipers, just at the lines going into the master cylinder, it's possible that if any air gets into the ABS portion of the assembly you may need a scanner to open the ABS valves to get that air out but I didn't experience any problems on my install, I did/do have a scanner that can do that if I needed it, but if you have any issues after your install just take to a local mechanic or dealer to have them bleed the brakes, but I don't foresee you having that issue since that part of the system shouldn't get any air into it as long as you don't press the brake pedal before filling the new master cylinder with fluid.

Link to the one I bought for my 2004, but check the build date(production date) to your build date on the VIN sticker on the driver's door jamb to be sure it the correct one.

47050-60080 Genuine Toyota Brake Booster Assy, W/Master Cylinder)

No special tools need other than a socket swivel, a deep socket and some long extensions to remove and reinstall the nuts holding the assembly, and line wrenches to remove and reinstall the brake lines.

Be careful not to get any brake fluid on any paint.

 

[SocalSam]

My '04 is doing something similar but worse. This morning I started it and the ABS, VSC TRAC, TRAC OFF lights all on as well as a high pitched constant alarm that never stops.
Brakes are almost unresponsive and pedal goes to the floor. Scanned the ABS codes and got all this... in pic. Any ideas on where to start? Came outta nowhere was driving fine...

What AU said. AU likes complete assembly replacement which is the right choice. However, some diagnosing can save major coin. Pedal going to the floor is likely master cylinder problem which caused hydro-pump to run excessively. You could have a major leak in the lines from the accident repair so inspect the lines and eliminate air in the lines first. Fix if needed. Crack the lines going to the module and pump the brake pedal. If the pedal hardens, MC might be OK. If MC is bad, assembly replacement is best option. I don't know what the fail safe modes are for completely dry valve block but there is a slight chance the computer has shut off pump from no fluid detected. If this is the case, pump might be OK. If pump motor is bad, pump and accumulator can be replaced separately.

When my brakes failed, I replaced pump and accumulator from a 2004 Lexus GS for about $60. I tested the pump motor at the junkyard with 12V and it sounded good. No special tools needed to remove hydro-boost assembly. Don't laugh, the hardest part for me was reinstalling the cotter pin for the brake pedal. I was able to bleed the valve block without special diagnostic computer. With assembly re-installed and lines in place, press brake pedal and crack lines. (I used a tool bag to hold the pedal down.) If you have a place to safely trigger ABS and TCS events, that will get the air bubbles moving in the valve block. Repeat bleed.