1988 Toyota 4Runner 22re

[lemonlyme]

1988 Toyota 4Runner 22re small coolant leak HELP!

Hello everyone! I'm so excited to be here!

I just purchased my first 4runner. It is a 1988 with a 22re motor. 270k on the body and new rebuilt motor with <=80k on it. No rust is on the frame, a little on the side panels and a little around the gas cap /flip. It pulls strong seems to run fine 4x4 works great. However, there is a small leak of coolant and I am freaking out since it is now my daily driver (2002 camry se rip). It needs to last a year than it will become a toy. I think I have located the leak and it is on the left side under the cam, there is like a there is like a T section of hoses one with a clamp on the back and then there is a hose above that one that seems to screw into an L it builds moisture there and drips pretty consistently. Any suggestions? Also how high should the radiator be filled? Just bought it last night and it was full up to the brim with green and now i look down in it this morning and its just wet in there but no liquid present. Also there is a small amount in the reservoir i think. If anyone could help me out it would be great. Down at college and worried about this situation (freaking out, dad will kill me if it cant be a DD) btw I can get pics later of the T and hose i described earlier.Thanks!

 

[lemonlyme]

here is picture of truck and the tri set of hoses the T. I believe the thing above it with the threaded L. It begins dripping constantly once started. Does anyone know what this is and it drips a fair amount but not gushing could that really be the only place where its leaking? The head gasket and radiator had been replaced a few months ago with the new motor in it.

 

[RAD4Runner]

Congrats on getting a first generation MoreFunner!

Looks like picture was taken too late, after most of the coolant on pipe has dried up.

You need to see exactly where it's coming from- meaning you watch it while engine is running at operating temp. Also watch your overflow tank. When cold, there should absolutely be no bubbling there.

I'm hoping its just the stock spring hose clamp. To add to that I see what looks like residue of coolant that dried up at end of hose. Those guys are weak, and were designed for quick assembly and low production cost, not for reliability. I replace each and every one of those I touch , with screw-on hose clamps.

Yes, you're losing coolant. "Just wet" is too low in radiator.
You should start with coolant all the way to the radiator neck, AND At "max" level in overflow, then watch how much coolant you're losing.

Best wishes.

 

[KidVermicious]

That's under the intake plenum? That's the line that goes into the idle air controller. Taking off the plenum is the easiest way to access it, replace the rubber and clean up the crusties on the nipples and you should be good to go.

 

[lemonlyme]

Okay cool, so do you have anywhere I would purchase hose and clamp and what one specifically?

From the symptoms does that sound to be all that it is is that leak? Also what type of coolant and or water should I put in it. It runs great and is fun to drive not bad for $2000 I think.

 

[KidVermicious]

Pretty sure it's quarter inch heater hose. Take the old hose into your parts store and have them match it. Hose clamps are in the $1 bin in the corner .

Afterwards, flush the radiator and heater core and refill with Zerex Asian coolant (undiluted) or Toyota Red (mixed 50/50 with distilled water). Fill it to the top, and burp it well. If the level keeps dropping, keep looking for leaks, and pray it's not disappearing into your combustion chambers.

Is this your first auto project?

 

[lemonlyme]

Reading the last part makes me sick to my stomach. How could it be leaking into my combustion chambers? Or how could I tell? Symptoms? I read about watching exhaust and only in mornings on first start does it expel white smoke and not a whole lot for a few minutes.

and yes its my first project but its supposed to be my daily driver. Wasn't really expecting to be working on it in a mechanical manner yet. Down at college so resources, tools, and space are limited.

The guy I got it from used it as a DD.

 

[KidVermicious]

Reading the last part makes me sick to my stomach. How could it be leaking into my combustion chambers?

Blown head gasket.

Don't borrow trouble. You know you've got seeping hoses, fix them and go from there . Check the big radiator hoses and the heater hoses on the firewall while you're looking.

 

[lemonlyme]

Well supposedly with the rebuilt motor he replaced the head gasket in June and just put a new radiator in it a few weeks ago because it was dripping. But I will check hoses on radiator as well. How hard is it to remove that hose?

Sorry for the ridiculous questions. Just question and become uncertain with everything when Dad could potentially be on my case.

 

[wallytoo]

1st, before you get too worked up over possible issues, do as stated by kidV and RAD. replace the leaking hoses. then see how things are.

2nd, these can be pretty reliable rigs. mine IS a DD. however, it's a little naive to think that you won't have to do anything, or spend a little money, to get it into DD condition, especially if the previous owner didn't take the best care of it. it would not be unreasonable, or surprising, to have to spend an additional $2000 on little things to get it into DD shape.

stuff adds up quickly. i've had mine for 1.5 years. some things i wanted to replace to ensure reliability, some things i had to replace.

tires: two sets (snows & summer tires) $1600
complete exhaust system: $475
rear seats: $250
fuel pump and other fuel system parts: $100
vacuum hoses, etc: $30
brake pads & shoes: $45
e-brake cable: $30
starter solenoid contacts: $15
coil: $30
afm: $50
tps: $20
plugs/wires: $40
etc.

test things before replacing, verify what failed or isn't working. it gets real expensive just throwing parts at a "problem" without diagnosing it.

the only thing i chose to replace (rather than needed) was the rear seats, since it didn't come with any.

wally

 

[lemonlyme]

Thanks for the responses guys. Will definitely replace hose and clamp asap. Hard while at school and so - so mechanically inclined lesser so with confidence in that area. At any rate, I played with clamp a little more getting it closer to the nipple and I think it helped some. I drove it down to gas station, stopped checked to see drips it was slower, drove 5 more min stopped checked drips, only 2 drips in 2 min, 10-15min drive home no drips. I checked reservoir (plastic container on right of radiator that has vacuum hose attached to see how much liquid was left ) it looks like it went down a little. I will check radiator later when it cools down.

I plan to put some money in it and make it a pretty decent ride, have made a list just this is the main issue I can find at this time that would concern me.

While pulled over I took a few photos. Hopefully they don't turn out sideways or upside down...

 

[Howitzer]

Congrats on getting a first generation MoreFunner!



I'm hoping its just the stock spring hose clamp. To add to that I see what looks like residue of coolant that dried up at end of hose. Those guys are weak, and were designed for quick assembly and low production cost, not for reliability. I replace each and every one of those I touch , with screw-on hose clamps.



Best wishes.

Those pressure clamp ones can be finicky!!! But they do have a purpose; on a copper pipe, such as upper or lower on a radiator, when your coolant heats up, the copper will expand with heat. If there's a spring type (at a loss for correct name) clamp on there, it will expand and then contract when cooled down. If you have a screw clamp on there, it won't expand ((as much if at all)) with the copper pipe and the rubber hose, and if you have it too tight, it will quasi crush or compress the rubber hose, slowly losing it's "cushiness" (once again, at a loss for words sorry boys), and the hose won't contract as tight as it once was on the copper pipe once cooled and could yield leaks. That's why most new cars have that spring clamp, not screw clamps, but once the spring clamp wears out it's about as useless as *insert clever adjective here*. Like the other guys said, replace the hose, fix the leaks, refill, and go from there. Check your oil, if it looks like chocolate milkshake, then you've a whole other problem on your hands! Keep us posted