1996 4runner sagging to the drivers side after lift install

STRRAYNGE

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1996 4runner leaning to the drivers side after lift install

Hey guys, I recently bought the OME 3" lift kit from Toytec. All new springs, everything. I installed it about 3 weeks ago, and I have noticed that it is leaning to the drivers side about 1"? I double checked the springs, and yes, I have the A spring on the drivers side and the B on the passenger side. Ive contacted Toytec, and tried everything they suggested. I called ARB (OME) and the are sending me new rear springs and some isolaters as well. For the heck of it tonight, I pulled both rears, in hopes that maybe they mistagged the springs, but they were correct. The drivers side is slightly longer than the other to compensate for the fuel tank weight. Well, I made a 3/4" makeshift spacer and added it to the drivers side to see if it would level it out, but it didnt, instead it basically just raised the entire back end up that 3/4". Im at a loss here, I dont know what to do. Sure I can install the new springs when they get here, but im starting to wonder if its something other than the springs. Do any of you have any suggestions for me? I appreciate any help.
 
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I believe it is because your panhard bar is too short and it is pulling your axle toward the passenger side. You may need the bracket that toytec sells or an adjustable panhard bar. If you disconnect your rear sway bar it should level off more after a quick drive or cycling of the suspension if you wanna go that route.
 
Did you put the right coil on the proper side?? One coil is longer to accomodate the weight of the gas tank........There are letter tags (A and B) on each coil, and one (not sure which) is for the Driver side.

The Panhard bracket will help with this too, but make sure the coils are on the ride side first.

Further to this, you may need to purchase a Top plate spacer (Trim Packer) on the driver side, in order to level it out completely.

Hope this helps!
 
I believe it is because your panhard bar is too short and it is pulling your axle toward the passenger side. You may need the bracket that toytec sells or an adjustable panhard bar. If you disconnect your rear sway bar it should level off more after a quick drive or cycling of the suspension if you wanna go that route.
Panhard bar may be what it is. Its funny that after numerous conversations with Toytec, they not once mentioned that. I guess that will be my next step. I sure appreciate that suggestion!!

Did you put the right coil on the proper side?? One coil is longer to accomodate the weight of the gas tank........There are letter tags (A and B) on each coil, and one (not sure which) is for the Driver side.

The Panhard bracket will help with this too, but make sure the coils are on the ride side first.

Further to this, you may need to purchase a Top plate spacer (Trim Packer) on the driver side, in order to level it out completely.

Hope this helps!
I appreciate the suggestions, but yes, as mentioned in the OP, I checked and double checked the A and B springs. Even pulled them out last night and measured them to make sure OME didnt somehow accidentally mis tag them. The drive side (A) is about 3/8" longer than than the passenger side. OME is actually shipping me some isolaters (their little 10mm spacers) and new springs now to possibly try to help level it out. But as I mentioned in the OP too, I sort of made my own temporary spacer last night and placed it on the drivers side. It didnt level it at all, just lifted the entire rear instead of the drivers side?? Thats why im confused now. I dont know, I guess now im hoping its the panhard bracket? Is Toytec the only place to get one of those? I appreciate your opinions!!
 
Im not sure if toytec is the only one to sell the bracket or not. My 96 did the same thing when i put my LC coils in so im almost positive that will fix it for you. I just disconnected my rear sway bar and it released a lot of the tension. Eventually i plan on getting the adjustable panhard bar or making my own bracket if i can figure out the measurements ill need.
 
Im not sure if toytec is the only one to sell the bracket or not. My 96 did the same thing when i put my LC coils in so im almost positive that will fix it for you. I just disconnected my rear sway bar and it released a lot of the tension. Eventually i plan on getting the adjustable panhard bar or making my own bracket if i can figure out the measurements ill need.
Funny you should mention swaybar. I jacked around with it yesterday morning. I didnt mess with the rear sway bar, but the front. After messing with it for awhile, I got the front to sit level, and now the drivers rear is up about 1/2". I bet if I take that makeshift spacer out now, itll be pretty darn close. So that panhard bar can cause all of this? I knew it could make your rearend track incorrectly, but I never guess it could cause a sag. Thanks for your input!
 
Funny you should mention swaybar. I jacked around with it yesterday morning. I didnt mess with the rear sway bar, but the front. After messing with it for awhile, I got the front to sit level, and now the drivers rear is up about 1/2". I bet if I take that makeshift spacer out now, itll be pretty darn close. So that panhard bar can cause all of this? I knew it could make your rearend track incorrectly, but I never guess it could cause a sag. Thanks for your input!

No problem, im glad your'e getting it worked out.
 
I contacted Toytec's tech department today, and asked them about it possibly being the panhard bar, or needing the panhard bracket. He told me he doesnt think that would cause the lean. Basically, him and ARB are both telling me to go ahead and install the new springs they are sending me, and then go from there. I guess ill install the new springs, and disconnect both swaybars and see how it sits. I dont know, its just frustrating.
 
Are you sure the rear springs are seated properly? There is a stop built into the lower spring seat. If the end of the coil isn't butted up against that, you're getting more lift from the spring than you should be. (Passenger side in your case).
 
Are you sure the rear springs are seated properly? There is a stop built into the lower spring seat. If the end of the coil isn't butted up against that, you're getting more lift from the spring than you should be. (Passenger side in your case).

yes, they are both seated properly. I even pulled them out this past weekend, mainly to measure them to make sure they werent mis-labeled. And when I reinstalled, I made sure they were seated correctly. I appreciate the suggestion though.
 
Mine looked like i had flat tire on the left rear it sagged soo much. you can install the springs if you want or just disconnect the rear sway bar to see if it levels out. If it levels out you will know its the panhard bar. basically as the axle gets pulled out the pass. side the sway bar link wants to pull the frame with it on the driver side and compresses the coil some. The links are easy to remove. I'd try that first then drive it around the block and check it.
 
Maybe you just got a bad or mislabeled coil. I would see what disconnecting the sway bar does for it, but it sounds like you have more than the usual little bit of lean.
 
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Mine looked like i had flat tire on the left rear it sagged soo much. you can install the springs if you want or just disconnect the rear sway bar to see if it levels out. If it levels out you will know its the panhard bar. basically as the axle gets pulled out the pass. side the sway bar link wants to pull the frame with it on the driver side and compresses the coil some. The links are easy to remove. I'd try that first then drive it around the block and check it.
Im still going to try that, but where that is confusing me is, the panhard bar is connected to the frame on the passenger side and the rearend on the drivers side. It seems to me that if anything should be sagging, it would be the passenger side since that is where it connects to the frame. More than likely im wrong, lol, but thats just how it seems it would pull it to me. Im still going to try it, but im just trying to picture it all first. Ive got access to a lift and a shop as soon as my springs get here, I guess ill try it all! Thanks man, ill let you know what it ends up being.

Maybe you just got a bad or mislabeled coil. I would see what disconnecting the sway bar does for it, but it sounds like you have more than the usual little bit of lean.

I was hoping thats what it was, but I pulled the coils last weekend, and the drivers side (A), is exactly 10mm longer than the passenger side (B). They are exact within the specs they should be. Im still hoping that maybe it is just a bad or weak coil. But once again, as I installed my makeshift spacer last weekend, it lifted the whole rear, instead of just the drivers side? Thanks for the input!
 
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I have a few ideas.

You need to figure out if it's the front or the rear that is the issue. The front coils are stronger than the rear and can push the opposing corner down (550# vs 210#). On level ground, jack up the front from a center point till the front wheels are off the ground (the cross frame under the front diff). Then measure the rear. Are the fronts mounted properly?

The coils have to be properly seated on the bottom and the top. The bottom is easy to see, the tail goes into the notch. The top has a round cup that dishes up then back down. This can be harder to get right. The inset of the cup needs to go into the rubber jounce bumper (rubber cone in the coil spring).

The pan hard bar is the one that is bolted to the pass side frame and the drivers side of the axle.

The sway bar is a ~1/2" diameter bent "U" shape. It in mounted to the front of the axle, loops over the diff and has 2 flexible links (one on each side over the lower control arms).
 
Im still going to try that, but where that is confusing me is, the swaybar is connected to the frame on the passenger side and the rearend on the drivers side. It seems to me that if anything should be sagging, it would be the passenger side since that is where it connects to the frame.

That is the panhard bar you just described...
 
I have a few ideas.

You need to figure out if it's the front or the rear that is the issue. The front coils are stronger than the rear and can push the opposing corner down (550# vs 210#). On level ground, jack up the front from a center point till the front wheels are off the ground (the cross frame under the front diff). Then measure the rear. Are the fronts mounted properly?

The coils have to be properly seated on the bottom and the top. The bottom is easy to see, the tail goes into the notch. The top has a round cup that dishes up then back down. This can be harder to get right. The inset of the cup needs to go into the rubber jounce bumper (rubber cone in the coil spring).

The pan hard bar is the one that is bolted to the pass side frame and the drivers side of the axle.

The sway bar is a ~1/2" diameter bent "U" shape. It in mounted to the front of the axle, loops over the diff and has 2 flexible links (one on each side over the lower control arms).

Sorry, I was in a hurry this morning when typing. Accidentally put swaybar instead of panhard bar. Anyways, I will try what you suggested as far as jacking up the front. From what I can see, everything is seated correctly. As far as the fronts, go, do you think they could be causing my issues. I did notice that the nut on the very top of the strut on one side isnt run down as far as the other side? I wouldnt think that would cause a sag though, since the weight is distributed evenly and should settle level? I will jack up the front and check the rear to see if that levels it out. And if it does, then what should I do? Pull my fronts back off and re-check them? Thanks for the suggestions Gerdo!

Here are my dimensions from center hub to fender well. This is with a 2" BL also, and I have checked and verified the body is sitting corerectly. I measured from ground to frame as well to make sure.

LR-24 3/4"
LF-24 3/8"
RF-24 7/8"
RR-25 3/4"

So its actually my whole left side sagging.
 
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My entire driver side sagged also but the rear was extremely noticeable. The way i tried picturing it in my head was as the axle pulled toward the passenger side the panhard bar became more of a vertical angle under the passenger side. Almost similar to jacking it up while the sway bar link pulled down on the driver side twisting it. I could be wrong but your problem is exactly what i went thru with mine and were both 96's. Let us know what you find. Im starting to wonder if by me removing my sway bar was just a bandaid to something else or if it was actually from my panhard bar as i thought.
 
My entire driver side sagged also but the rear was extremely noticeable. The way i tried picturing it in my head was as the axle pulled toward the passenger side the panhard bar became more of a vertical angle under the passenger side. Almost similar to jacking it up while the sway bar link pulled down on the driver side twisting it. I could be wrong but your problem is exactly what i went thru with mine and were both 96's. Let us know what you find. Im starting to wonder if by me removing my sway bar was just a bandaid to something else or if it was actually from my panhard bar as i thought.
Yeah, I thought about it more this morning, and was coming up with the same thing you pretty much just said. As it is pulled to the pass side, its more like its lifting that side a tad, in turn causing the driver side to go down a tad. Makes sense. What a pain. Did you say if you fixed yours yet?
 
Mine leveled out after removing my sway bar but i removed it for the flex and it was just dumb luck it leveled it. I suspected my panhard bar but didnt think my sway bar removal would level it until after i removed it. After it leveled my truck out i than tried to picture it and understand what was going on. Im curious as to why no one else had this issue and if it has something to do with 96's.Im also wondering if this will work for your rig also. I dont drive fast so i dont mind not having the sway bar and my front link was broken already so it works for me. Eventually i may fix the front and get longer links for the rear though.
 

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