1997 4runner rear door latch

[mountlacrosse]

help! can anyone point me to instructions on how to fix the back hatch latch? it is broken and the door is shut so the only way I can access the back of the truck is by lowering the rear window I've looked on this site, but nothing points me to fixing the back hatch latch handle. any help is much appreciated. thanks.

 

[nissanh]

You have to open the door panel from inside. You'll see what to do after that.

 

[blueblur1984]

help! can anyone point me to instructions on how to fix the back hatch latch? it is broken and the door is shut so the only way I can access the back of the truck is by lowering the rear window I've looked on this site, but nothing points me to fixing the back hatch latch handle. any help is much appreciated. thanks.

It may just be jammed. Do you have a cargo rug and if so does it look to be stuck in the latch? If you can get a second set of hands to pull the rug while you jimmy the handle it should come loose.

It could just be gunked up too. I had this happen and it's an easy fix. Just pop the panel and hit everything with some cleaner followed by WD-40. Here are a few photos I took for another member who had an issue with their lock. Remove the platic panel and there are a few metal panels to take off. After this you'll have unfettered access to the mech in the hatch.

 

[mountlacrosse]

back door won't open - how do i remove the back panel from the inside?

thanks. I can't figure out how to pop the back hatch inside panel. This would enable me to open the back hatch which is shut and the latch won't open
I'm a first timer so go easy!

 

[blueblur1984]

thanks. I can't figure out how to pop the back hatch inside panel. This would enable me to open the back hatch which is shut and the latch won't open
I'm a first timer so go easy!

I'd start with a large flat head screw driver with some duct tape on the end. This will keep you from scratching your panels or paint. I started prying at the bottom and as you pop the platic rivets loose you can see where the others are. Just work your way around and you may have to use more muscle than you'd think. Here's the inside of the panel for reference.

Edit!

Very Important! You will need to remove a bolt that is next to that nylon strap. I just remembered after looking at this picture.

 

[Device5]

Same problem, here's my fix.

I had the same problem with my 97 4runner, latch not working and door in the closed position. here's what I did from the inside... Get a pair of gloves, pliers, ratchet with 10mm socket and some metal plumbers tape... Remove the bolt holding the door strap. Bend the last 3/8 inch of the plumbers tape into a slight hook shape with the pliers. Slide the plumbers tape down the left side of the rear panel till you get the bottom left corner hooked. Pull back and you should get the bottom corner snap unsnapped (Start at a bottom corner!!). Do the same thing working up the left side and then bottom left side towards the middle till you can get your fingers along the bottom and pop the rest of the snaps. Use the photo in the post above as a guide to where the snaps are located, it should help in knowing where to place your "homemade latch hook thing"....WEAR GLOVES!!! Plumbers tape can really cut your hands up if they slip while pulling My problem was that the two bolts that held the latch close had come loose. Grab a ratchet 10mm socket, slide it in there and tighten 'em up.

I use this forum all the time to work, just joined to post and assist in the battle. Hope this helps.
Best,
J

 

[I_bRAD]

A thin prybar with a 90 degree end works well for removing the panel with the door closed. something like this:

As others have said, start by removing the small plastic cover by the pull strap and then remove the bolt behind that.
Next, move to the lower corners and free them. Work towards the center, and then up each side. Hook the prybar behind the panel and pull towards yourself.
Once you're that far, lower the rear window and then lift upwards to remove the panel.
Raise the window to within an inch of the top (this will come in later)
Next you'll have to remove the middle access panel. Disconnect the electrical harness (3 plugs) and then remove all the bolts and then pull it off. There's snaps behind that, so you can work around the edges again if need be (these snaps are a different design and harder to break)
Once you have the panel off you should be able to see the rear door handle. Follow the rods to the driver's side. There's your latch. Actuate the latch by pushing the rod towards the latch (I think. If that doesn't work try the other direction)
Now you can get the door open. congratulate yourself.

Now comes the part where you have to figure out what's wrong. That's on you. If you need to get the door handle off You'll need to unbolt the window regulator (4 bolts) and then you can move the entire regulator/window assembly around to get clearance to the various attachments. The handle comes off with the bezel if you have to go that far, but you probably wont.
If you remove the rod from the handle, pay attention to which direction the bracket goes. it will bolt on in either direction, but will only work in one.

Once you get it sorted out, then re-install the window regulator. This is where you thank yourself for leaving the window down a crack as it will be much easier to position the regulator in line with the bolt holes.

Installation, as they say, is the reverse of removal. Be sure to test the door before you put all the access panels and trim back on!

 

[kyleP]

Help

Followed this link, took everything off expecting to have to grease me lock. Found that the rod/linkage from the handle is not pushing the linkage to pull the lock open. I can manually turn and open the lock. Not sure if there is a part missing in the rod from that handle or what to purchase to replace.

Any help would be appreciated.

Kyle

 

[infantry503]

Followed this link, took everything off expecting to have to grease me lock. Found that the rod/linkage from the handle is not pushing the linkage to pull the lock open. I can manually turn and open the lock. Not sure if there is a part missing in the rod from that handle or what to purchase to replace.

Any help would be appreciated.

Kyle

Ever find the solution to this? My door wont stay shut and I am having the same issues

 

[906Runner]

Followed this link, took everything off expecting to have to grease me lock. Found that the rod/linkage from the handle is not pushing the linkage to pull the lock open. I can manually turn and open the lock. Not sure if there is a part missing in the rod from that handle or what to purchase to replace.

Any help would be appreciated.

Kyle

I'm having the same issue, the rod slides to the drivers size, but the wire down the latch does not move.

 

[nphueber]

Bumping this because this walk through just saved me a lot of swear words and broken plastic clips!

My hatch now opens again! Thanks!

 

[techtrack]

I'm having the same issue, the rod slides to the drivers size, but the wire down the latch does not move.

Has anyone found the solution to this? I am having the same issue and can't figure out why the linkage rod doesn't move the wire.

 

[baja1]

I did a really poor job of troubleshooting the same problem, I surmised it was the lift gate lock latch so I attempted to bust into it and totally destroyed it. used one on ebay was 70 bucks and I doubt it is even the problem! :frusty:

 

[rwoolverton]

Fixed my hatch. This was previously mentioned as the problem so just repeating. Once I got the panels off and took a look the problem was obvious. There are two nuts that hold the hatch lever bracket in place. One was missing. This meant that when i squeezed the lever to open the hatch the bracket moved and the rod didn't. Replacing the nut fixed my problem. One more note. I couldn't get a tool in place to snap off the rear cover. I must be retarded. I drilled a quarter inch hole in the corner of the panel so I could hook my tool in this hole. Worked great. If you are having the rear door ajar light staying on see my post on that. Fixed it

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[Bwarn]

Easy back hatch panel removal

I didn’t have much at my disposal to try and help remove the panel. First thing I grabbed ended up working perfectly. Takes the panel off super quick and easy with no scuffing nothing. Like incredibly easily, strongly recommend using a tire iron and the curved end of ya got one. For the initial removing of the snaps. My problem was similar, the door had been stuck in the not fully closed position since I bought it. The linkage wire(not sure proper term) running to the latch part that secured the back door shut had broken off. So the wire was just hanging and not connected to the little metal cylinder. Was much easier to just remove it and flip it , placing the still intact end towards the bottom , where access was much more difficult, and wire up the uppermost connection point with some wire. Works great now. Also I had an issue still with the door shutting completely. Had to slam the fire out of it to get it to shut completely. Used some penetrating oil and found that some small bit of plastic-like gasket material had broken down a bit and was coming apart causing much friction. Pulled out a little bit of it and soaked with the oil. Still takes a bit more elbow grease to shut it than is ideal, but it works. Didn’t have to hunt any replacement parts so that’s great. Wonderful thread , thanks y’all !

 

[So Many Roads]

When rear hatch is locked, the linkage rod does not engage the cable

I'm having the same issue, the rod slides to the drivers size, but the wire down the latch does not move.

If the linkage rod doesn’t move/engage the cable to open the hatch, the lock mechanism is most likely closed. There is a second rod that links the lock to the locking mechanism. It is above (but not visible) the linkage rod and cable, behind a piece of plastic. Find that and lube both ends. There is also a lever that locks/unlocks the door above and to the left of the cable end. (also hidden, find it with your fingers.) Find that and you can manually lock/unlock the back hatch.

When the lock is in the locked position, the linkage rod will not engage the cable to open the door. When unlocked it will engage. I found the locking rod was gummed up where it connects to the lock. Silicone spray solved the problem and everything works now.

Took me a bit to figure this out so I thought I’d share.

 

[So Many Roads]

If the linkage rod doesn’t move/engage the cable to open the hatch, the lock mechanism is most likely closed. There is a second rod that links the lock to the locking mechanism. It is above (but not visible) the linkage rod and cable, behind a piece of plastic. Find that and lube both ends. There is also a lever that locks/unlocks the door above and to the left of the cable end. (also hidden, find it with your fingers.) Find that and you can manually lock/unlock the back hatch.

When the lock is in the locked position, the linkage rod will not engage the cable to open the door. When unlocked it will engage. I found the locking rod was gummed up where it connects to the lock. Silicone spray solved the problem and everything works now.

Took me a bit to figure this out so I thought I’d share.

Follow up - Turns out I had to replace the license plate bezel, as the plastic pieces the lock cylinder screw into on the bezel had broken. If your the lock cylinder moves around, you may have the same issue. here is a thread on how to replace the bezel.



Replacing rear license plate bezel