1998 5VZ-FE bad injector question

[cristian]

Hello all (and thank you to admin for allowing me to post right off!)

I've owned a 1998 (mfg date 10/97) 4Runner since 2000, and have put about 200k of the current 233k miles on it. It has been nothing short of a pleasure to own and drive.

However, the injector in cylinder #2 appears to have stopped working. It started out as an intermittent problem, which has become pretty much a dead miss over the past week.

My mechanic, a Toyota-only guy, said that it could be the injector, the ECU, or the wiring harness, in that order of likelihood. I have access to a 1997 4Runner parts vehicle, and he said to try switching the ECU to see if that may solve it. If that doesn't, he can replace the injector for me.

I'd do it all myself, but about a year ago, I did the valve cover gasket / cam plug replacement thing, and nowadays I simply don't have the time to rip all that stuff off and put it all back on all over again.

At this point, I have a couple questions bugging me that I'd like to pose to the esteemed members here.

First, is there much of a likelihood that the ECU can stop a single injector from working? Trying that first is obviously the easiest thing to rule out, but I'd like to get an idea of how likely it is to be the cause before I start ripping out my dashboard lol.

Second, how often do injectors go out? I'm trying to weight the possibility that I should just get all new injectors, since so much $ in labor is tied up in just getting to the darned things. If they only go out once in a blue moon, maybe I should just have the bad one replaced?

Third, if the route is all new injectors, which ones to get? I see new Denso injectors for like $150 apiece, which I'm not sure would be so wise in a 233k mile motor. And I see the cheapo reman pieces for $69 a set, which I bet are nothing but trouble. What would be the suggested best route in my case?

I apologize if I've left out anything pertinent, and I'll certainly add any other needed info. And also I really appreciate all replies!

Cristian

 

[Brian1973]

I have a 2000 and it started missing a couple years ago. On the side I could access. Easy! Bought reman injectors after figured it wasnt plugs, wires or coil packs. Been working fine after 30k miles. Other side of engine developed a miss sooo, went ahead and bought 3 more remans and let the mechanic do it cuz I was short on time and required more work on drivers side. Id bet it is an injector. Mine would test fine w ohm meter. Seems only failed after engine warmed up. Mine had about 170k when 1st one went bad, 200k when second side went bad.

 

[kolelt]

OP. Do a resistance test on that fuel injector. I can’t recall the exact proper resistance. Think it was 13.6 ohms give take for a proper fuel injector. You can just measure a good cylinder and compare it to the bad one. If it is your fuel injector, you don’t need to replace all 6. Replacing just the bad is good. If it is your fuel injector I’d get a OEM one. Also, have you checked the wires, and the spark plug? Have you unplugged the fuel injector while it’s runbing to see if the engine changes how it idles ? Replacing the injector is not hard. But for cylinder #2 you’ll need to remove the intake. So you’ll need a new intake manifold gasket.

How often do they go out? Not crazy often, but it does happen. Happened to me. 97 with 240k and one of the injectors went bad. Diagnosed it by measuring the resistance of the injector and comparing it to the good ones. I knew my wires and coils were good because the wires were brand new oem. And I had like 6 oem coil packs laying around. So swapping the coil didn’t do anything. And the plugs were brand new.

 

[ryan93Integra]

We have had a couple of tundra get corrosion in an ecu plug and cause a miss. We unplugged and plugged the ecu back in and problem solved. Easy to check. We recently bought a 99 4runner that had a pretty good skip. Middle cylinder on the passenger side. I swapped the coil packs between 2 cylinders to make sure it wasn't a bad coil pack. It was in fact a bad injector. Swapped it out with another one from our parts truck and it ran fine.

 

[HiLife]

First I would do what kolelt posted and do a resistance test, cause it's free. Keep in mind sometimes an injector can go bad with good resistance specs.
You can have older denso injectors flow tested and rebuilt to be in like new condition.
JWaldz is selling a used set of denso "brown" injectors onhere.
It's a great alternative than going new or, worst yet aftermarket ones.

 

[cristian]

Will 1999 injectors even work in my 1998? When I look around for them, it seems the 98 and 99 injectors are different.

 

[feta]

I have had bad injectors and coil issues

...on a sequoia with 220K

It is really easy to solve assuming you have ruled out wires and plugs which are just maintenance.

Clear code, swap coil packs...if code moves replace coil pack.

I had a clogged injector, which passed all tests. Simple injector test is to put a long screw driver on good and bad ones then stick ear on other end of screw driver, the clicking/actuating while running will sound different in the bad one if it is dead.

Clear code, swap injectors...if code moves replace injector.

 

[cristian]

it drove fine on the 15 minute drive to work today!

Today on the way to work, it drove fine, with no miss. Although the amber check engine light stayed on the whole time and is on continuously lately. Would a bad injector routinely come and go like that?

 

[kolelt]

Today on the way to work, it drove fine, with no miss. Although the amber check engine light stayed on the whole time and is on continuously lately. Would a bad injector routinely come and go like that?

Yes. Stop beating around the bush and start diagnosing ands fix it before you do more demage.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Will 1999 injectors even work in my 1998? When I look around for them, it seems the 98 and 99 injectors are different.

They are a little different. I've heard of people running them ok but it would be better if you could get an injector from a 96-98 instead so it matches the rest.

 

[cristian]

can I use 1999 injectors if I'm replacing them all?

I see that Toyota changed injectors from the 1998 to 1999 models.

If I plan to replace them all, does it matter if I use injectors for the 1999 models? Would there be any difference / advantage to this?

Can anyone recommend a reputable U.S. company that remanufactures injectors?

 

[kolelt]

I see that Toyota changed injectors from the 1998 to 1999 models.

If I plan to replace them all, does it matter if I use injectors for the 1999 models? Would there be any difference / advantage to this?

Can anyone recommend a reputable U.S. company that remanufactures injectors?

As long as you have a matching set. But don’t mix match them. Again, why do you want to replace all 6 when only 1 could be bad? You don’t need to replace all 6. Make sure it’s the injector. Then go on camelback Toyota and order a injector for your year.

 

[cristian]

The reason I was going to change them all is because it's like $250 labor to pop off the plenum just to get at the injectors. I may as well do them all instead of paying $250 the next time one goes bad. 233k miles, so it could happen again I guess.

 

[kolelt]

The reason I was going to change them all is because it's like $250 labor to pop off the plenum just to get at the injectors. I may as well do them all instead of paying $250 the next time one goes bad. 233k miles, so it could happen again I guess.

Do it your self mate. It’s really not hard. Not to mention why would you replace good oem injectors with Remanufactured? But it’s your vehicle so...

 

[cristian]

I already pulled off the intake last year to replace the valve cover gaskets. I know it's not hard, but I unfortunately don't have the time to do it myself right now. But let's say I replace one injector and another goes out down the road (which is why I asked in my original post how often they go bad). The labor cost to get at the darned things is so high, I figured it might be worth it to just replace them all. You know, sorta like replacing the rear main seal, then paying the labor twice to do the converter seal later on when it starts leaking. But from what I'm seeing here, that might not be the case and I should just replace the bad one.

 

[kolelt]

Right on brotha. It’s your truck. If you feel better then go for it. Personally, I wouldn’t replace the good oem ones with remans because they aren’t the same quality. That’s all. I would replace just the bad one. I did it my self and it’s been good.

 

[4runnerJim]

did you ever resolve the issue. i have a 2011 with a intermittent dead miss. you can turn the truck off and restart it and the dead miss is gone. then it misses again in a short period of time, pull over, turn off and restart...and its gone again. 3 mechanics are baffled. any ideas? you have the same issue? thanks JL