MATTPENN21
New member
I was reading through this thread noticing the dates and wondering the same thing. I will be doing this in the near future as well.
1999 4Runner Rack and Pinion replacement
- Thread starter Papa K
- Start date
O2RunnerSR5
New member
I'm stuck. I'm paying for a lift as we speak and I can not get the shaft to come off the steering rack. Those 2 bolts that the OP removed can't happen cuz mine are rusted. the two bolts that allow that piece to slide up and down on shaft are removed but I can't seem to get the bottom portion of the shaft off of the steering rack. I've tried prying it up, air hammer, and banging the crap out of it with a prybar and hammer. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!
the high pressure power steering line won't come off either but that's another problem on its own.
the high pressure power steering line won't come off either but that's another problem on its own.
Alberta4runner98
New member
Fluid lines siezed
Hey, I'm just gonna post on this old thread and see if I get anything.
I'm currently trying to remove the fluid lines from the steering gear and they are super seized up. The return line sheared off at the flare nut, oops, luckily that's the cheap line. I really don't want the same thing to happen to the pressure line, any tips or trick out there? Would applying some heat to housing around the flare nut be kosher? I've already soaked it in about as much penetrating oil as anyone could.
Hey, I'm just gonna post on this old thread and see if I get anything.
I'm currently trying to remove the fluid lines from the steering gear and they are super seized up. The return line sheared off at the flare nut, oops, luckily that's the cheap line. I really don't want the same thing to happen to the pressure line, any tips or trick out there? Would applying some heat to housing around the flare nut be kosher? I've already soaked it in about as much penetrating oil as anyone could.
Alberta4runner98
New member
Hey 02RunnerSR5 how'd you make out with that in the end? Did you get the pressure line off in the end?
chillinied
New member
high pressure line
I changed my high pressure line because I hit a massive bump on highway in Cleveland and the original line gave way on the rack and it bled out. That took forever to get re-connected. Using steel screw clamp on the low pressure line warped the fitting(which may have been damaged using crows wing to tighten hp side- as it's soft copper. So now I now have bad ITR-and leaking fitting on lp side-so while I want to replace rack-I don't have confidence I can unweld the bolt where steering rod connects to rack. Can that be removed w/rack in place? I've got new LC arms-so I can get alignement-but need to get the ps working. I've also replaced the sway links-had to angle grind those off because of rust weld condition. Wondering thoughts: replace ITR, fitting and LC arms or, entire rack and LC arms? Not sure I want that wrestling match with the hp fitting only to find the steering connector won't disconnect. As is, it's like driving an old military pickup truck
I changed my high pressure line because I hit a massive bump on highway in Cleveland and the original line gave way on the rack and it bled out. That took forever to get re-connected. Using steel screw clamp on the low pressure line warped the fitting(which may have been damaged using crows wing to tighten hp side- as it's soft copper. So now I now have bad ITR-and leaking fitting on lp side-so while I want to replace rack-I don't have confidence I can unweld the bolt where steering rod connects to rack. Can that be removed w/rack in place? I've got new LC arms-so I can get alignement-but need to get the ps working. I've also replaced the sway links-had to angle grind those off because of rust weld condition. Wondering thoughts: replace ITR, fitting and LC arms or, entire rack and LC arms? Not sure I want that wrestling match with the hp fitting only to find the steering connector won't disconnect. As is, it's like driving an old military pickup truck
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I changed my high pressure line because I hit a massive bump on highway in Cleveland and the original line gave way on the rack and it bled out. That took forever to get re-connected. Using steel screw clamp on the low pressure line warped the fitting(which may have been damaged using crows wing to tighten hp side- as it's soft copper. So now I now have bad ITR-and leaking fitting on lp side-so while I want to replace rack-I don't have confidence I can unweld the bolt where steering rod connects to rack. Can that be removed w/rack in place? I've got new LC arms-so I can get alignement-but need to get the ps working. I've also replaced the sway links-had to angle grind those off because of rust weld condition. Wondering thoughts: replace ITR, fitting and LC arms or, entire rack and LC arms? Not sure I want that wrestling match with the hp fitting only to find the steering connector won't disconnect. As is, it's like driving an old military pickup truck
I think you might be out of luck. You could always ask a fabrication shop to see if they will tackle a job like that, but I'm not sure they will. Best price I found was online for a new rack for $580 when I replaced mine a few years back.
diverscale
Member
Detroit axle steering rack 200$ new on ebay. Thing feel and works as good as OEM.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Well, to each his own. I got 200k out of the first rack, so I figured another OEM will last me another 200k. It was not a fun or easy job, so not something I ever want to do again.
etc.
Member
There's no need to separate the rag joint. Remove the upper most and lower most bolts and widen the clamshells with a screwdriver. The entire rag joint assembly will come out as a whole. The upper most steering shaft has a flat spot along with the splines for alignment during reinstall.
To get the steering wheel straight: straighten tires, loosen rag joint assembly by removing the bolts mentioned above, slide lower part of the ragjoint assembly off the steering rack, straighten steering wheel, reinstall on steering rack.
Line removal should be last on the disassembly process. Having the rack loose will allow you to slide it back enough to get at the lines. Also, remove the bolt holding the lines near the alternator for more slack. 12mm.
If you're reusing the outer tie rods, loosen the inner tie rod from the outer tie rod ie don't turn the nut on the OTR at all. During reinstall, thread the OTR into the ITR and tighten using the ITR nut again leaving the nut on OTR nut stationary.
And those buying a Toyoda rack, the blue lines on the steering input shaft boot does not represent straight wheels upon install.
To get the steering wheel straight: straighten tires, loosen rag joint assembly by removing the bolts mentioned above, slide lower part of the ragjoint assembly off the steering rack, straighten steering wheel, reinstall on steering rack.
Line removal should be last on the disassembly process. Having the rack loose will allow you to slide it back enough to get at the lines. Also, remove the bolt holding the lines near the alternator for more slack. 12mm.
If you're reusing the outer tie rods, loosen the inner tie rod from the outer tie rod ie don't turn the nut on the OTR at all. During reinstall, thread the OTR into the ITR and tighten using the ITR nut again leaving the nut on OTR nut stationary.
And those buying a Toyoda rack, the blue lines on the steering input shaft boot does not represent straight wheels upon install.
etc.
Member
I changed my high pressure line because I hit a massive bump on highway in Cleveland and the original line gave way on the rack and it bled out. That took forever to get re-connected. Using steel screw clamp on the low pressure line warped the fitting(which may have been damaged using crows wing to tighten hp side- as it's soft copper. So now I now have bad ITR-and leaking fitting on lp side-so while I want to replace rack-I don't have confidence I can unweld the bolt where steering rod connects to rack. Can that be removed w/rack in place? I've got new LC arms-so I can get alignement-but need to get the ps working. I've also replaced the sway links-had to angle grind those off because of rust weld condition. Wondering thoughts: replace ITR, fitting and LC arms or, entire rack and LC arms? Not sure I want that wrestling match with the hp fitting only to find the steering connector won't disconnect. As is, it's like driving an old military pickup truck
I'm very confused what you're saying.
You can remove the entire rag joint assembly with out removing the rack.
