1999 SR5 Driveline Vibrations
- Thread starter Northland_Runner
- Start date
Northland_Runner
New member
Pretty sure it’s not my rear pinion because the vibrations are not apparent all the time. Only when applying torque to the driveshaft do I get vibrations. My front driveshaft between my transfer case and my transmission and my front cv’s are turning any time the truck is moving. I only have a trim packer spacer on the rear drivers side to level the truck due to the weight of the gas tank, battery, and driver.
I have investigated the rear axle bearings. No slop/play after jacking up the rear end and trying to push/pull the hub 12 to 6. If the rear axle bearings were shot I should feel vibration and hear a drone from the rear all the time.
This is something that I really haven’t looked into and the more I think about it, the more it makes sense. I’ll definitely do a thorough inspection of the engine/tranny mounts and any exhaust mounts. I'll letcha know what I find.
fourwd1
Moderator
OK, you have a Double Cardan joint at the t-case end of the shaft and your diff is pointed upwards as in the pic?
That's the way it should be. If you had a single joint at each end you would want the angles the same, ie parallel with the ground.
Have you tried driving around with the front shaft removed just to eliminate it as a contributor?
Northland_Runner
New member
Yep. I do have a double cardan joint at the t-case going back to the rear diff. so the angle between the driveshaft and the diff should be 0. You are correct. Up until now I've assumed it was a rear driveline issue so no I haven't tried running it in 4wd with the front drive shaft removed. That would really narrow down/eliminate the problem source. I'll definitely try that!
Northland_Runner
New member
UPDATE: Today I removed the drivshaft to isolate my vibrations. When I removed it I found that the mechanic that replaced my u-joints did not install the yoke with the correct orientation(Not matching up with my indicator marks I put on the driveshaft before I gave it to him) Stupid I didn't notice it earlier..:frusty: Anyway... I checked out the double cardan joint and it seemed very healthy.
I took it out for a short run in 4wd without my rear driveshaft removed and found my drivetrain vibrations to disappear! I did get some very different lower frequency vibrations i hadn't encountered before at higher speeds tho. I figure those go along with the extra torque I was applying to the front driveline that is not designed to handle that much torque.
I thought I had it all figured out. Line my indicator marks on my slip yoke to get the proper orientation and reinstall. Put it all back together properly. Took it on a run to find the same damn vibrations I started with. :wtf: Vibrations when I apply torque to the rear drive shaft. Silky smooth when I let off the gas.
Hopefully someone has some insight I can tell the dealer tomorrow.
I took it out for a short run in 4wd without my rear driveshaft removed and found my drivetrain vibrations to disappear! I did get some very different lower frequency vibrations i hadn't encountered before at higher speeds tho. I figure those go along with the extra torque I was applying to the front driveline that is not designed to handle that much torque.
I thought I had it all figured out. Line my indicator marks on my slip yoke to get the proper orientation and reinstall. Put it all back together properly. Took it on a run to find the same damn vibrations I started with. :wtf: Vibrations when I apply torque to the rear drive shaft. Silky smooth when I let off the gas.
Hopefully someone has some insight I can tell the dealer tomorrow.
Northland_Runner
New member
I forgot to mention that I did inspect the engine/exaust mounts as well as doing a good inspection of everything i could possibly think of. All looks good. I do need to replace my long overdue muffler but that's another days project. If I had more time on my hands i'd pick up a drive shaft from a junkyard and try that before I handed it off to the dealer but I really think this needs a toyota pros opinion.
curtperry
New member
Quoting myself there for reference ^
I am still chasing this problem. Today, while replacing my rear drums, I found some more evidence. With the drums removed and the transmission in park (stationary drive shaft) I spun the hubs from each side to see if there was any noticeable problem. There was a faint knocking sound/vibration during spinning that was stronger from the passenger side. It was at a pace of about 16-18 knocks per turn (I counted as best I could). and could be heard through the diff as well.
At this point I am thinking it's either the passenger side wheel bearing or my spider gear(s) in the diff, which should have been the only thing moving inside the diff at the time.
Northland_Runner
New member
I'm finally getting to the bottom of this. Took it to the dealer and they concluded there is a problem with my rear differential. Recommended replacing the differential. $1,600 for used diff install or $2,100 for re-manufactured install. I paid their diagnostic fee and got it out of there... I figured I could pull the diff myself and have a shop rebuild my diff for a fraction of the cost of a dealer replacement.
Long story short. In the process of removing my differential I found my wheel bearings in a bad state when I pulled my axles. Lots of play/slop perpendicular to the axle shaft. I should have been able to diagnose this right away but I didn't pick up this curve ball early on due to the symptoms I had. Neither did two master mechanics or the toyota dealership. Vibrations strictly when torque was applied to the rear driveshaft and no variance when turning. I pulled my diff anyway to make sure nothing was wrong with that as well.
I'm going to bring my two axles and my rear diff. into toyota so they can remove and press on new bearings/retainers/abs roaters (From what i've read this is difficult to do correctly and not to be left to someone not experienced) I'll get OEM parts and have the toyota experts do it.... I'll have them inspect the diff as well although everything seems in check there.
Edit: Found my rear axle breather vent plugged... Classic. Broke down the oil prematurely and although there was not a seal blowout enough oil mush have gotten past the seals to wash out my bearing lubricant. Makes sense. Hopefully this will be over very soon.
Long story short. In the process of removing my differential I found my wheel bearings in a bad state when I pulled my axles. Lots of play/slop perpendicular to the axle shaft. I should have been able to diagnose this right away but I didn't pick up this curve ball early on due to the symptoms I had. Neither did two master mechanics or the toyota dealership. Vibrations strictly when torque was applied to the rear driveshaft and no variance when turning. I pulled my diff anyway to make sure nothing was wrong with that as well.
I'm going to bring my two axles and my rear diff. into toyota so they can remove and press on new bearings/retainers/abs roaters (From what i've read this is difficult to do correctly and not to be left to someone not experienced) I'll get OEM parts and have the toyota experts do it.... I'll have them inspect the diff as well although everything seems in check there.
Edit: Found my rear axle breather vent plugged... Classic. Broke down the oil prematurely and although there was not a seal blowout enough oil mush have gotten past the seals to wash out my bearing lubricant. Makes sense. Hopefully this will be over very soon.
BillIam
New member
can you clairify the noise a little bit more? i have a "wub wub wub" noise that sounds like a washing machine almost.its consistant along with wheel speed as it gets faster the faster i drive from 20mph+
my mechanic found a seized parking brake actuator that was hitting the drum and a bad wheel bearing in the same side 600$ to replace both with an inspection hopefully it will be done tomorrow
my mechanic found a seized parking brake actuator that was hitting the drum and a bad wheel bearing in the same side 600$ to replace both with an inspection hopefully it will be done tomorrow
Northland_Runner
New member
At slower speeds it is unnoticeable.(0-30) sometimes as I accelerated to higher speeds I would get your "wub wub wub" noise. It was more of a pulsating vibration/ growl around 50mph and would taper off to a more consistent noise when I was up to speed. Like I've said in previous posts all noises and vibrations would disappear as soon as I let off the gas. At higher speeds when I applied torque to the rear driveshaft I would get a quiet lower toned growl from the rear with a vibration resonating through the floorboards.
Northland_Runner
New member
The wild goose chase is still in progress...
Had my bearings checked out by Toyota. Three techs verified they were still good. Inexperience on my part diddn't realize the play I had was normal.
Toyota tells me they are 99% sure my rear differential has to be rebuilt.
Soo... I pulled my diff, had a tranny shop rebuild my diff, and reinstalled it with a breather extention and new axle seals. Rassembly went very smooth.
Test drive proved that all my efforts and assets have been a waste. Same acceleration vibrations are still very apparent.
Not sure whats the right move at this point. Taking it back to toyota and seeing what they will do about their incorrect diagnosis seems like my only option at this point.
Vibration origin has been isolated to behind the transfer case. Rear Diff=Rebuilt. Rear axle bearings=Good confirmed by toyota techs. Rear driveshaft rearmost u-joint=replaced. Pinion angle=Dialed in at 0 deg.
Possible Cuprits: Driveshaft unbalanced(doubtful), Bad double cardan Joint (even though it seems healthy and the toyota tech said it was fine i'm still suspicious), problem really lies in front of the transfer case rear output(doubtful).........???
Had my bearings checked out by Toyota. Three techs verified they were still good. Inexperience on my part diddn't realize the play I had was normal.
Toyota tells me they are 99% sure my rear differential has to be rebuilt.
Soo... I pulled my diff, had a tranny shop rebuild my diff, and reinstalled it with a breather extention and new axle seals. Rassembly went very smooth.
Test drive proved that all my efforts and assets have been a waste. Same acceleration vibrations are still very apparent.
Not sure whats the right move at this point. Taking it back to toyota and seeing what they will do about their incorrect diagnosis seems like my only option at this point.
Vibration origin has been isolated to behind the transfer case. Rear Diff=Rebuilt. Rear axle bearings=Good confirmed by toyota techs. Rear driveshaft rearmost u-joint=replaced. Pinion angle=Dialed in at 0 deg.
Possible Cuprits: Driveshaft unbalanced(doubtful), Bad double cardan Joint (even though it seems healthy and the toyota tech said it was fine i'm still suspicious), problem really lies in front of the transfer case rear output(doubtful).........???
Drcoffee
Senior Member
I think i found the problem on mine. I replaced the muffler with a TRD cat back and the vibration is pretty much gone. Now I have a drone at 2000 rpm from the exhaust. So my next move will be to source a resonator from a Tundra to smooth out the tone.
Update: I found the source of my vibration. It turns out to be an obscure problem related to the alternator. The S signal wire had broken and the alternator was running at full power 100% of the time. As I accelerated, the drag at 2500rpm would cause a vibration. Now that the alternator is working as it should, the vibration is gone. I doubt this will help anyone else but its a possibility. The break in the wire was deep in the harness and the insulation must have been nicked at the factory, the wires had corroded green and finally broke. The wire carries 12v to the alternator.
Update: I found the source of my vibration. It turns out to be an obscure problem related to the alternator. The S signal wire had broken and the alternator was running at full power 100% of the time. As I accelerated, the drag at 2500rpm would cause a vibration. Now that the alternator is working as it should, the vibration is gone. I doubt this will help anyone else but its a possibility. The break in the wire was deep in the harness and the insulation must have been nicked at the factory, the wires had corroded green and finally broke. The wire carries 12v to the alternator.
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Northland_Runner
New member
Time for a update:
Picked up a used driveshaft from the salvage yard. Swapped it in to find the symptoms change between the two driveshafts. The problem was not solved still.
Brought the 4runner into a specialty driveshaft shop. They said both driveshafts had bad double cardan joints. They rebuilt my double cardan on my original driveshaft and balanced it. Found it was waaay out of balance but they have it balanced perfectly now. Symptoms did not change after all that was done.
Guy at the driveshaft shop thinks my t-case needs to be rebuilt or swapped depending on price and availability.......... any input would be appreciated.
Picked up a used driveshaft from the salvage yard. Swapped it in to find the symptoms change between the two driveshafts. The problem was not solved still.
Brought the 4runner into a specialty driveshaft shop. They said both driveshafts had bad double cardan joints. They rebuilt my double cardan on my original driveshaft and balanced it. Found it was waaay out of balance but they have it balanced perfectly now. Symptoms did not change after all that was done.
Guy at the driveshaft shop thinks my t-case needs to be rebuilt or swapped depending on price and availability.......... any input would be appreciated.
curtperry
New member
Wow dude... that really sucks still having the problem after throwing a bunch of money at it like this. I'm feeling your pain.
My vibration is still there. It seems strongest at 50mph and again at 59mph and i don't really notice it beyond that but I stay at 65 and under usually. I have kind of decided to just live with it and/or let it get worse until it's more obvious where the problem lies.
In playing with my other truck (an F150) I found the same knocking when turning the rear hubs by hand and I'm thinking its just spider gear teeth engagement and I guess it's normal for spider gears to be kind of loose in a diff. So I've mostly ruled that out.
My vibration is still there. It seems strongest at 50mph and again at 59mph and i don't really notice it beyond that but I stay at 65 and under usually. I have kind of decided to just live with it and/or let it get worse until it's more obvious where the problem lies.
In playing with my other truck (an F150) I found the same knocking when turning the rear hubs by hand and I'm thinking its just spider gear teeth engagement and I guess it's normal for spider gears to be kind of loose in a diff. So I've mostly ruled that out.
I have just recently purchased a 99 sport of an oldman who babied it for the 135000 miles.. Ive also checked my ujoints and found no extra play in the rear u. This thing is all stock.. And I'm still noticing vibrations when under acceleration.. This is my 3rd 3rdGen and 1st time having this problem
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alanflies
New member
I know you have looked everywhere...but I think it's worth another look at your cv angles...I just lifted my rig 3 inches in the front with no dif drop. when I drove the truck for a day or two i had substantial vibration just as you do when on throttle and not so much off throttle...started getting loud at around 50mph. It felt like it was dragging the engines power down too.
After two days of waiting for the right bolts I was able to install my diff drop, vibration after was about a third of what it was before and started at around 65 mph...after i installed my outdoorlogic bumper and 12000 winch the front end settled about a half an inch. the vibration is now all but gone. I only notice a slight rumble when under heavy load at speeds above 65 mph...I think the CVs threw most of their grease that first day, I am thinking when I regrease them the vibes will be all but vanished.
Your symptoms sound exactly like mine did...
Hope this helps.
After two days of waiting for the right bolts I was able to install my diff drop, vibration after was about a third of what it was before and started at around 65 mph...after i installed my outdoorlogic bumper and 12000 winch the front end settled about a half an inch. the vibration is now all but gone. I only notice a slight rumble when under heavy load at speeds above 65 mph...I think the CVs threw most of their grease that first day, I am thinking when I regrease them the vibes will be all but vanished.
Your symptoms sound exactly like mine did...
Hope this helps.
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Northland_Runner
New member
I had a 1" diff drop installed from day one after doing my lift. I don't think my cv's are the problem. They are very solid and the boots are good. I didn't even lose any grease when I changed their angles. The driveshaft is completely eliminated from possible culprits. It's been completely rebuilt and balanced. My t-case output is solid and the fluid is up to level. Don't know what to do at this point. I won't give it much more than a month before I have to move on...:moping:
Northland_Runner
New member
Well... the vibration experience is coming to a close. After the shop rebuilt the rear driveshaft a second time I was convinced that it couldn't be the culprit anymore. My confidence that the rear shaft was not the problem diminished every time I drove it. I was becoming confident that it still was the problem. So confident that I called Tom Woods custom drive shafts and ordered a new one up. Arrived this afternoon and fit perfectly. After driving it and taking the stiffness out of the joints my vibrations dramatically decreased! I still feel some vibration, minor, but then again i'm paranoid and hypersensitive to any vibration. I'm not confident enough to say it's completely fixed but we'll see after I take it on a long test drive.
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