BrianSD_42
New member
I probably won't buy anything until Pres Day weekend. Hoping for that sale.
1st Gen tacoma king 2.5 coilovers fit 3rd gen without modification?
- Thread starter 99blackt4rsport
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shootmymime
New member
Warn out 650s. Preload is quite a bit to get the lift. Also tube bumper and winch don't help. I would still stick with 650 springs.
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Aznwolf118
Member
like tcmach said 700's might be a bit much
but worked for the pig, because it has a shrockworks bumper, dual batteries, bud skids and a warn 9.5xps up front. not sure if your loaded the same.
the cdc or adjusters are kind of a unimpressive option, all honesty after it was set they are hardly ever adjusted, end up often forgetting they are they and they are at one of the softest settings with the 700' springs.
but worked for the pig, because it has a shrockworks bumper, dual batteries, bud skids and a warn 9.5xps up front. not sure if your loaded the same.
the cdc or adjusters are kind of a unimpressive option, all honesty after it was set they are hardly ever adjusted, end up often forgetting they are they and they are at one of the softest settings with the 700' springs.
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FreshSeabass
New member
IMHO... running 650lb on road is excellent for your weight because it's (just) stiff enough and Offroad they compress perfectly. I'll vouch as I am probably close to your weight with the 4Cyl and some extra weight up front. No joke, I don't run front or rear sway bars on my daily and the 650lb x 14" King Spring gives me the perfect ride for what I can say is ideal.
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BrianSD_42
New member
Great advice guys. Thanks.
Any idea who is going to have the best price, perhaps an upcoming Presidents day sale?
Any idea who is going to have the best price, perhaps an upcoming Presidents day sale?
GSPRunner
Senior Member
Never purchased from them but I know a few who have and they say Total Automotive has the best prices
jstim
New member
[MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION] [MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION]
Are the C/O you are running, I have been looking around...is it the 25001-333? I have looked, and there are the ones for the 1st Gen Tacoma, but its a different part number. I ask, I am looking at new coils, and they have the remote resis for the Taco.
Are the C/O you are running, I have been looking around...is it the 25001-333? I have looked, and there are the ones for the 1st Gen Tacoma, but its a different part number. I ask, I am looking at new coils, and they have the remote resis for the Taco.
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BrianSD_42
New member
Here is what I'm running. -151. It is the kit recommended by my local guy.
[MENTION=119532]Road Bull[/MENTION]
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/196568-road-bulls-2002-sr-5-timeline-8.html
Is running the 333 ext I believe.
[MENTION=119532]Road Bull[/MENTION]
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/196568-road-bulls-2002-sr-5-timeline-8.html
Is running the 333 ext I believe.
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Road Bull
Senior Member
[MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION]
Oddly enough, upon closer inspection although my order read,
KING OEM Performance Series (25001-333EXT)
1996 - 2002 Toyota 4Runner
2.5 Front Coilovers IFP
Extended Travel for use with UCA
My box says 151 (EXT).
Did you go with the extended travel Kings? From what I hear, they are all the same, however, their is a little removable buffer in the non extended versions that can be removed to make it extended travel. We are not really talking about a lot of extra travel anyway, but there you go. I am somewhat curious as to why they sent me 600# coils on mine. I said 650# but told them what I had as far as weight goes and said if they thought I needed 700# given additional weight of skids, winch, front AOR bumper, then go for it. But 600# is what I ended up with. The ride is very nice by my estimations. If I need to, I can jump up to heavier springs down the road.
Oddly enough, upon closer inspection although my order read,
KING OEM Performance Series (25001-333EXT)
1996 - 2002 Toyota 4Runner
2.5 Front Coilovers IFP
Extended Travel for use with UCA
My box says 151 (EXT).
Did you go with the extended travel Kings? From what I hear, they are all the same, however, their is a little removable buffer in the non extended versions that can be removed to make it extended travel. We are not really talking about a lot of extra travel anyway, but there you go. I am somewhat curious as to why they sent me 600# coils on mine. I said 650# but told them what I had as far as weight goes and said if they thought I needed 700# given additional weight of skids, winch, front AOR bumper, then go for it. But 600# is what I ended up with. The ride is very nice by my estimations. If I need to, I can jump up to heavier springs down the road.
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BrianSD_42
New member
I did not get extended travel. Not sure how much extra that gives. Seems good so far.
JayRolla
New member
They give about 1" additional travel. Same thing happened to my brother ordering his icon on 4th gen. Metaltech said go with the 600s.
jstim
New member
This makes me wonder if the 333, or 333EXT is the same as the 151s...
Road Bull
Senior Member
It's not that big a difference really. Also if you are running extended coilovers, you probably want to make sure that you are running OEM inner tie rods vs. aftermarket ITRs so that when the shocks are at full droop, they are not over stressing the angle on the ITRs. A few aftermarket ITRs have slightly less range of motion.
Some one on here recently just when the through the rebuild process and removed the spacer / buffer converting them to EXT travel. It seemed like a fair amount of work for such a small difference. But hey.. I would be fine with either.
Good to know, maybe we tend to go a bit hard core on what coil weight we think we need.
Hard to say. I think I might reach out to King for verification. If you go onto TAP's Web site, and put in your vehicle, it gives you options for your 4runner. But it looks different than how it did just a few months ago when I ordered mine. I will check and see if I still have the tags that came on my coilovers. Maybe there is some information that I missed on those things.
jstim
New member
So I went to King's website and here is what I am seeing....mind you the last time I talked to them they told me there is no extended travel for the 4Runner, and according to whoever I spoke to on the phone, said the tophat on the coilover is different from the 4Runner to the Tacoma. I know it sounds stupid, especially after seeing the boxes that says 4Runner AND Tacoma. Maybe the person I talked to was an idiot? So heres the data straight from their site.
I separated it all by the / because it was too wide the way it copies off the website.
Part#/Description/Type/Details/Weight Lbs/Compressed length/Extended length
25001-151/Tacoma 96-04 (6 Lug)/Front Coil Overs/48/15.325/19.5
25001-333/4Runner 1996-2002/Front Coilover/Internal Floating Piston/48/15.342/19.330
So what I have taken from this is the 4Runner coil has an internal floating piston, and has .170 inches less extension? I don't see any EXT versions on their site.
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shootmymime
New member
When I rebuilt mine this summer I wanted to jump up to extended. Well. As I tore things apart the internals looked nothing like what people had said. "Remove the 1/2" metal spacer and that's extended". I had no metal spacer.
What I did have was a large metal washer and rubber bump stop to dampen the rebound of the piston from smacking the seal head.
I talked to down south and they said you can remove the rubber bump stop, I called king and they said don't remove it. So I trimmed it down from 1/2" thick to 1/4". Yeah. I know a lot of improvement gains there. But oh well.
BUT. The real gains was on installation. I noticed that at full droop my spindle will not contact my spring. That's common on extended travel. As the suspension drops the upper ball joint / spindle moves closer towards the shock as it lowers. With more slack in the shock length the spindle can contact the spring. Well lucky for me I'm 1/8"-1/4" away from my spring.
I also rebuilt some icons last week. I was able to measure the usable shaft length. As lower mount is fully extended. And the length was about 5.5". (Standard length mind you) Where as my kings are about 4.5" stroke. So if I had icons I may need limit straps.
Food for thought.
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Road Bull
Senior Member
Ha! I thought that was you who did the rebuild. I remember you running into those issues too. I think it is a fair amount of extra work for the minimal gain that you might get, but to each their own. And you are right, once you get ~5" of travel, you should be thinking limit straps or, I would suspect you run the risk of tweaking ITRs as they only have a set range of motion.
And if you asked me definitively what shocks I have, I might be hard pressed to tell you exactly. More than likely, I have the 151 versions. But my order said 333 (EXT). That would become a lot more relevant if I was planning a rebuild.
jstim
New member
I'm with you...I just as I get closer to pulling the trigger on the coils am having a harder time accepting a digressive calves shock. I would have preferred the kings with a remote resi, that's not possible, talked to king. My rig is going to eventually end up back in the cold, but I'm really just thinking run with it and buy the -333's. I've never heard any real complaint about Icon or King, but this will be a road vehicle too.
What UCAs are you running? And you were hitting the spindle before you trimmed the bushing and now you're not?
shootmymime
New member
Built right uppers.
No I was not hitting them because my upper ball joints were my limiting factor.
Now after the bushing was trimmed. I am close, but not hitting the coil.
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BrianSD_42
New member
A couple of questions ...
Have any of you guys adjusted your coils?
Have you experienced sag?
How much lift did you get "as shipped" from King?
How many rings are exposed from the top of the adjustment ring (I don't know what this is called) to top of coil?
:bat:
Here is what I'm dealing with. When I installed the Kings at their defaults my lift appeared to go down 0.5" from 29.0" with the Billstiens to now 28.5" fender to ground with Kings. I measure this on the street. Twice is a flat spot near my apt. It seems very flat. It is also the same spot I measured before installing the Kings. I'm pretty solid I lost ~ 0.5" ok fine.
So I go to my mechanics and ask him to raise is 0.25" . They start then tell me that my alignment was done wrong, the wheel was too far forward I believe. And that fixing alignment should stop the rubbing that showed up. He also says sitting in the flat alignment bed which is level that my truck tilts to drive side 0.5". I'm like fine sure. He suggests just fixing the alignment and raising the sagging side. The finish and don't charge me since they originally did the alignment. Fine I go home.
Now today I measure in the exact same spot and now my fender sits at 28.0" - 28.25" using same spot and same technique.
So WTF is happening?
I'm now down nearly whole inch and I haven't added any new weight to the truck. Gas difference? I don't think so I only have 1/4 at moment. The most obvious answer to me is the guy who adjusted the coils lowered them instead of raising them. That simple.
Btw I counted the rings from top of coil adjustment to top coil and I'm pretty sure it is 11 rings at front of truck side of the coil.
Have any of you guys adjusted your coils?
Have you experienced sag?
How much lift did you get "as shipped" from King?
How many rings are exposed from the top of the adjustment ring (I don't know what this is called) to top of coil?
:bat:
Here is what I'm dealing with. When I installed the Kings at their defaults my lift appeared to go down 0.5" from 29.0" with the Billstiens to now 28.5" fender to ground with Kings. I measure this on the street. Twice is a flat spot near my apt. It seems very flat. It is also the same spot I measured before installing the Kings. I'm pretty solid I lost ~ 0.5" ok fine.
So I go to my mechanics and ask him to raise is 0.25" . They start then tell me that my alignment was done wrong, the wheel was too far forward I believe. And that fixing alignment should stop the rubbing that showed up. He also says sitting in the flat alignment bed which is level that my truck tilts to drive side 0.5". I'm like fine sure. He suggests just fixing the alignment and raising the sagging side. The finish and don't charge me since they originally did the alignment. Fine I go home.
Now today I measure in the exact same spot and now my fender sits at 28.0" - 28.25" using same spot and same technique.
So WTF is happening?
I'm now down nearly whole inch and I haven't added any new weight to the truck. Gas difference? I don't think so I only have 1/4 at moment. The most obvious answer to me is the guy who adjusted the coils lowered them instead of raising them. That simple.
Btw I counted the rings from top of coil adjustment to top coil and I'm pretty sure it is 11 rings at front of truck side of the coil.
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