1st time doing 4th gen timing belt,

M

mastee

New member
I had done only a 3rd gen timing belt by myself before, posted here and got some very good help at the sticking points...this time I know a little bit more:)

I started yesterday, the sticking points so far have been the lower radiator clip, and the stupid screw on top of ac compressor, I had to cut a slot via dremel but it finally came off.

I have not taken the back bracket bolt off from the AC compressor do I need to do this anymore?

Next step set TDC and then crank the pully bolt off, wish my brother was here like last time, ill need to bug some neighbor or have the misses hold it with a really long lever...

I am surprised how good the timing belt looks at 161,000 miles. Since she had been maintained all its life at one dealership, I faxed them with proof of ownership a request to tell me if timing belt service was ever done and they replied "nope". I remember my 3rd gen timing belt with 180k on it was also in very good shape, I was questioning if I worry unnecessarily about the belt they are really quiet stout.

With this truck except my drive belt every fluid, spark plug etc has come out in really good shape, I hope she is a long term keeper:)
 

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The choice to go with a belt on an interference engine will forever mystify me. There are way too many variables in the mix to reliably say when the belt should be changed from engine to engine, belt manufacturer to manufacturer, environment to environment. 60,000 miles, 200,000 miles? It might explode on you, it might not.
 
delucat2 said:
The choice to go with a belt on an interference engine will forever mystify me. There are way too many variables in the mix to reliably say when the belt should be changed from engine to engine, belt manufacturer to manufacturer, environment to environment. 60,000 miles, 200,000 miles? It might explode on you, it might not.
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They way I always understood it when I was a Toyota Technician is that if the vehicle (or engine) is chain driven or has VVTI, it is an interference engine. If it does not have either of these, like the timing belt setup above, it is a non-interference engine. Either way, at 160k and not being sure if it has been changed, it is a good idea to do so. Mine was changed at 91k, and it has 227k on it now, so I will be replacing mine as soon as I can get to it. Until then, it is running great and I am not too worried about if it breaks since mine should be non-interference.
 
Well I got the kit already and on crank bolt now, but I thought that this was the only interference engine that toyota made, so it may be ruined if tb snaps?

I m off to hw store as the drill bid snapped, need to find 3/8 or 5/16 grade 8 bolts to work with my home made tool
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mastee said:
I m off to hw store as the drill bid snapped, need to find 3/8 or 5/16 grade 8 bolts to work with my home made tool
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Are you making a crank pulley tool? Show us a picture when it's done! My homemade tool didn't work; the bolts I threaded into the pulley just bent.
 
My tool looked just like that. Maybe I copied your design or we both copied a design from somewhere. I used "regular" grade metric bolts that threaded into the pulley, and they bent.

Here's how I got it to work, and around this post there is some other discussion of homemade tools.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/130732-2uz-fe-r-r-t-belt-water-pump-15.html#post2662727

I think the problem isn't necessarily the bolts bending, but the fact that the holes that the bolts thread into and the holes in the tool that hold the bolts aren't strong enough or tight enough to resist the torque on them. It might help to tighten the bolts against the metal bar with nuts extremely tight so that the bolts are held perpendicular to the bar. But then it would be hard to install that onto the pulley.

A sleeve or spacer that you can tighten between the tool and the pulley might also help keep the bolts perpendicular.
 
I did copy it off here, did the best with a dremel, drill n an electric grinder:)

I have that thread open in another tab and actually been contemplating everything from bumping the starter (I take fuse 29 out for ignition, right?)
to your idea, so did you use the old drive belt to tie it around the UCA?

I am not sure why the holes are threaded smaller on a V8 vs a 3rd gen, I think a 3/8 would have held up fine.

I decided to order the Schley tool from Amazon, it will get here Friday, until then I can do some rust proofing while the engine bay is clean, run some distilled water through the radiator while it is off the truck, I am tempted to take the xreas off and install FJ shocks but if I hit any snags with it then my wife will be pissed, she has been helping or I would have told her that it was part of the timing belt job:D, besides my xreas are still fine
 
Im wrapping up my tbelt install right now. For the crank bolt my impact was too weak and my spanner wrench just bent two grade 8 bolts. So i used the belt method and it worked like a charm.

Flip the belt inside out.
Pinch one end.
The pinched end needs to wrap around the pulley like a chameleons tail.
Take the other end and snake it under the frame and wrap the end over the front recovery hook.
Now just grab your breaker bar and break it loose.

To tighten the bolt the belt wouldnt reach the recovery hook so i looped the belt on the sway bar then wrapped the other end around the pulley.

I have some pics but i just created a new account and prob cant post them.
 
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Cruiserfanatic said:
They way I always understood it when I was a Toyota Technician is that if the vehicle (or engine) is chain driven or has VVTI, it is an interference engine. If it does not have either of these, like the timing belt setup above, it is a non-interference engine. Either way, at 160k and not being sure if it has been changed, it is a good idea to do so. Mine was changed at 91k, and it has 227k on it now, so I will be replacing mine as soon as I can get to it. Until then, it is running great and I am not too worried about if it breaks since mine should be non-interference.
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if talking about a 4.7 in your 4runner, its an interference engine. don't wait for it to break...
 
nevada said:
if talking about a 4.7 in your 4runner, its an interference engine. don't wait for it to break...
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I stand corrected. I just did some research, and the 4.7L is the only timing belt driven non-VVTI Toyota engine that's interference. Guess I've been out of the game for too long, so thanks for clarifying this before I let it go too long. I have all my parts, just need to find the time. Too many car projects going on right now though.
 
mastee said:
I did copy it off here, did the best with a dremel, drill n an electric grinder:)

I have that thread open in another tab and actually been contemplating everything from bumping the starter (I take fuse 29 out for ignition, right?)
to your idea, so did you use the old drive belt to tie it around the UCA?
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The drive belt around the fan mount or UCA mount worked great for me. I wouldn't recommend the fan mount since it will put 400+ lbs of force on it, but it didn't seem to affect mine. The UCA mount is strong enough to handle it, or someone else used a breaker bar wedged under the frame and sway bar. Also, don't try to reuse the drive belt after folding it like that.

A real tool is best, of course, if you can afford it and don't mind waiting for it.
 
m85476585 said:
The drive belt around the fan mount or UCA mount worked great for me. I wouldn't recommend the fan mount since it will put 400+ lbs of force on it, but it didn't seem to affect mine. The UCA mount is strong enough to handle it, or someone else used a breaker bar wedged under the frame and sway bar. Also, don't try to reuse the drive belt after folding it like that.

A real tool is best, of course, if you can afford it and don't mind waiting for it.
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An old fan belt wrapped around the crank pulley and sway bar and then locked into place with a socket extension resting on the sway bar and cross brace will get it done without any drama or fussing about making a tool. I posted a picture in the other thread but it looks not unlike the one posted a few posts up from this one.
 
Those are all good ideas, since I have already ordered the schley SCH64300 might as well give it a try first, there are a few toyota/lexus in the family so I figured it will come handy in the long run. My home made worked perfect for two 3rd gen V6 TB jobs, the 3/8 bolts could withstand the twisting torques and that one was 220 ft/lbs if I recall correctly..

But that is not all, as I was cleaning up some rust yesterday, one of my rusted transmission cooler line started leaking, I have only lost 10 ml of fluid if that and it has stopped, good thing I have plenty of left over from my recent flush..

Ebay has it listed for $60, called a few dealerships and he can get it in hopefully tomorrow BUT cost is $28, does that sound right?. He took my vin and knew what a 2uz-fe was, and also sent me a picture via email, for once can the dealership be cheaper or it is the wrong part #32907A?, please confirm, it is the two metal lines that screw underneath the radiator support with two brackets?
 
took 1 minute,1 try nope a short extension and it came loose, I need to review the notes on setting the timing, is it T or I, spin 25, I forgot
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mastee said:
took 1 minute,1 try nope a short extension and it came loose, I need to review the notes on setting the timing, is it T or I, spin 25, I forgot
2856d948b51ea66df3e3efc17a1862f4.jpg


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You probably know about this thread - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/130732-2uz-fe-r-r-t-belt-water-pump.html

I have to warn you though, different people have had mixed results going when following the guide.

For my 06, when the crank pulley was lined up on the white dot, the cam notches were lined up on the T. We followed the guide and put the notches on the I and the truck threw a couple codes. We had to do the belt again the next day to put the notches bad on the T. This is detailed on page 6 of the thread.

Best bet is to reinstall the belt the way the old belt came off.
 
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On my 03 non vvti i lined up the cams with the straight lines and then turned the crank to the white dot and that put the cam marks on the T's.

Best way to not mess it up is to make your own marks on all the gears and belt. Then transfer the lines to your new belt by taping them together. Impossible to mess it up that way.
 
driver side cam, 2nd pic = passenger side cam and the white dot is not exactly liningup with the white line on crank pulley?
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