1st time doing 4th gen timing belt,

[mastee]

Well the belt is off now, I marked cams on two different locations on the old belt and also counted tooth between my new belt and all three came out to be 71 tooth. Nothing has moved and I have been careful cleaning around the area as there was some coolant leak from the old water pump, the gasket area also needed thorough cleanup. I looked behind the Cam pulley gear and the cam seal looks fine, I have one included in my kit, should I go ahead or pass up on changing it?

I have two O rings on my kit, one goes on the WP outlet and the other bigger one on goes on what?

I am off to Toyota to pickup the transmission tubes, will be shortly to and then start putting everything back together.

 

[black4vcobra]

And another real life example that shows the FSM is wrong and the notches match up with the T.... The new belt and tensioner will probably make those marks line up just right though

Not sure about your o-ring question, it's been over 2 years since I did mine so I can't recall. If it's not leaking and it looks good leave the cam seal alone. Good luck getting it all back together

 

[mastee]

Well just got done and drove her around the block, I must hold the record for the longest running timing belt jobs in 3rd gen and 4th gen

BTW: The bigger o ring was for thermostat housing, the smaller one for cooler inlet for WP.

Lessons Learned:

There is no need to take the AC compressor off, it was not needed in my case and caused some unnecessary headache later on, just take the little bracket on top of the compressor off and replace that philips screw with a bolt for future ease, the 14mm to the right side of compressor also comes off..

Always cover the condenser/Rad with card board and do not take it off until the VERY end, I put a small dent on my condenser while installing the fan in the very end, oh well AC is still cold...

On the belt between the two cam marks there were always 71 teeth, no matter how many times I rotated and marked at TDC. I did move the CR to 50* for belt take off and after all was done and I had done my rotations, I left it on TDC. Between the Driver side cam to CR mark there should be 70 ribs and I believe the other side is 69..reading all the conflicting info I got paranoid..and I have an overly marked old belt..

The new belt was quiet tight and I ended up loosening the sub tensioner pulley enough so that it tilts/wiggles around its bolt and that allowed enough slack to just slide it on...

I did not mark the bolts and went by memory, not recommended

I did drain the block and have so far put in 2 gallon jugs plus 1 qt and it seems to be not full?

181lbs is doable with one person with the crank pulley tool, I had to get help on the 5vz's 218lbs

Lastley, I would like to thank all the trail blazers who have taken the time to produce some great writeups for the less skilled folks such as my self, the efforts do make a real difference

 

[2uzferunner]

I didnt drain the block and it took about 2.5 gallons. Lots of air pockets so i had to jack the front up as high as my jack would go for the coolant burping.

Oh and i took the radiator out. Added maybe 20-30 mins to the job but made it
easier overall.

 

[AuSeeker]

My 2004 V8 owners manual states coolant capacity at 13 US quarts.

So you need to get another gallon in it.

 

[mastee]

I drained the block only from one side and took the radiator out so I figured some must have remained. I just measured the old coolant and counting spills a little over 2.5 gallon came out so I must be 1-2 short max.

Will also top off the atf fluid and do a brake fluid flush tomorrow.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[m85476585]

close enough?

I think that's close enough. I've read posts by some people who say the belt could stretch maybe up to 1/2 tooth. That looks like 1/4 tooth stretch. I think mine was off by a similar amount, but I don't remember if it was perfect when I put the new belt on.

I've read that changing the cam seals is a pain, and they usually last to at least 180,000 miles, so maybe change them the second time you do the timing belt.

 

[mastee]

I got a bit confused b/w the FSM, multitude of threads and youtube videos, actually my heart was racing as I was just about to start the engine, in the end I was extra careful to mark the belt and not move anything after it came off

Yesterday I drove her for 10 minutes with my obd scanner streaming live data, I cranked the heater all the way up until I could see coolant reach almost 200, to fully open the thermostat, she has been running good so far, no leaks

Now to Toyota to pickup another gallon of antifreeze and top off the tranny then we will get out for a longer ride today.

Ordered a AEM filter also

 

[mastee]

After my timing belt job, I have discovered a coolant leak coming from top of the L shaped cooler line before the oil filter, I realized that I had forgotten to slide the clips back on top and lower part of the L shaped rubber hose, I tried moving the clips a few times but it is still happening.

I ended up removing the radiator shroud and the fan and have removed the L shaped hose, I do not see any rips in it.

The return hose after the thermostat gets hot after I run the engine so new thermostat must be opening and coolant must be circulating

Any ideas what may be going on, thanks,

It was just a clip