2000 limited SleepyDad build

great horny toads

I spent like 3 hours cutting off the rear lower arm brackets... man that was a lot of fun the 80+ heat. But the good news the front 80 series brackets fit perfect.

I think it's going to work, it all lines up perfect really and I can cycle it thru and nothing hits. I need to work getting everything clamped into place tomorrow and run it up and down just to make sure.

Unfortunately, I discovered my fuel tanks mounts do hit... so this would have been a problem anyways without the arms. I'm pretty sure I have an easy fix but I will have to fab up some stuff... nothing is ever as easy as it should be.

<a href="https://imgur.com/hEPJw7o"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/hEPJw7ol.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/uF1ZoBT"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/uF1ZoBTl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/AQoobMS"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/AQoobMSl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
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for the same amount of lift, will moving the shocks outboard require longer shocks? did you move or modify the lower shock mounts?
Thank you.

I did not mod the lower shock mounts. My goal was to reuse my icon shocks. It did not change the travel. The upper mounts I fabricated we’re expressly designed to be a direct replacement for the stock location, except on the outside of the frame.
 
I did not mod the lower shock mounts. My goal was to reuse my icon shocks. It did not change the travel. The upper mounts I fabricated we’re expressly designed to be a direct replacement for the stock location, except on the outside of the frame.
Will you be spacing the wheels outboard?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 
if you look back at this post



https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3741921-post250.html



you will need a full 2" if you want to outboard stock shocks. I think a lot of people never ever come close to fully exercising their suspension. But as you and I both know those speed bumps at the mall can really max stuff out. :)
You must not have driven PA back roads with stock suspension. If the potholes don't get you the road dips will... However with old man emus on with a 2 inch lift. You just bounce down the road without bottoming out at all. :)

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
 
is the 2" the clear distance between the outer side of the shock and the inner side of the tire? or is that the spacer thickness needed? is that measured when the vehicle is on a level surface?


if you look back at this post

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3741921-post250.html

you will need a full 2" if you want to outboard stock shocks. I think a lot of people never ever come close to fully exercising their suspension. But as you and I both know those speed bumps at the mall can really max stuff out. :)
 
is the 2" the clear distance between the outer side of the shock and the inner side of the tire? or is that the spacer thickness needed? is that measured when the vehicle is on a level surface?

couple of things

The Wheels I run are 17" steel spares from a 5th gen, not sure if the backset is the same? sorry. I think they are the same as 3rd gen stock config.

the spacer is moving my wheel mounting surface out by 2"

I needed 2" to fully exercise the range of motion in the rear suspension.
 
couple of things



The Wheels I run are 17" steel spares from a 5th gen, not sure if the backset is the same? sorry. I think they are the same as 3rd gen stock config.



the spacer is moving my wheel mounting surface out by 2"



I needed 2" to fully exercise the range of motion in the rear suspension.
Outboarding the rear wheels has less overall impact than all 4/ front. Easy enough to measure backspacing and know for sure.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 
some solid progress

<iframe width="800" height="600" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Z-uGLGz_asY" title="Trailing ARM 3rd gen part2" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
back on her feet again, now I got new problems, am I surprised?

NO

Ok so everything went pretty good until exhaust, it's always about the freaking exhaust.

but she is back on her feet again. with the custom tank, the gauge even works and show the same level as the stock tank. I used the old tank/pump to just pump the old gas out and transferred it into the new tank. A good way to know if your sending unit bends are working. yes it is.

<a href="https://imgur.com/cvd3O30"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/cvd3O30l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/6l55dUY"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/6l55dUYl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/XfAYRxX"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/XfAYRxXl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

:uzi:
<a href="https://imgur.com/3d6SJzM"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/3d6SJzMl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I took measurements then found some stuff that might work, and wasted some more $
<a href="https://imgur.com/n9ca5Mr"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/n9ca5Mrl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

going to see if I can caveman this muffler

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-12576

this resonator

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPE-1141

I'm just going to dump it under the truck for now pointing down, not what I wanted to do but the old exhaust is just not going to work. so long term I'm going to have to make my own custom fuel tank that will allow enough room for the exhaust. or BFH that F150 tank in a spot or 2. :)


and I'm going to have to do something about the front end again, the prado arms put my backend about 2.5" higher than the front.

<a href="https://imgur.com/fmeALD9"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/fmeALD9l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
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god I hope this sounds ok

I made a flanged piece for the 2nd o2 sensor, so I should not have to cut that out again. ha yea right/

<a href="https://imgur.com/GUnEncZ"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/GUnEncZl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

being able to cut custom flanges on the robot is nice, can't even imagine trying to do it without that now.
<a href="https://imgur.com/J0joPp8"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/J0joPp8l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

but got everything cut and fitted up, out of gas for the evening... will tack it all into place tomorrow. excited and scared to find out what it sounds like. and it's hard to take a photo of exhaust on the ground.

<a href="https://imgur.com/5Y6Ml35"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/5Y6Ml35l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
still odds and ends to cleanup but for now she is in stable state

shot potato video + muffer sound

overall I'm really amazed how much better the truck rides on road on crappy MN expansion crack ridden side roads. having a solid rear axle when you hit those speed bumps can be a little harsh, with the prado arms it's like floating on angle feather pillows :)
[MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION]

<iframe width="800" height="600" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oUhe10eLSMQ" title="Trailing ARM 3rd Gen final" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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new toys

have always wanted to know exactly and now maybe I do, will help work thru the custom rear coil over setup.

thinking I can fit a 14" dual spring coilover in the back, would like to do 16" but I honestly don't think it's needed with the kind of tame wheeling I do. so I think 14" will be good.

<a href="https://imgur.com/lo921Uk"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/lo921Ukl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/ou5Csqy"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ou5Csqyl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I also think my flat surface in my garage has a slight downhill on the passenger side and this would account for the left/right mismatch.
 
You must not have any armor on your rig!

-Charlie

no, just stock skid plate up front right now, I have a full set of shrockworks but I don't put them on unless I'm going to need them.

for now I'm going to go with a light duty setup based on the 90% of the time I'm driving to the mall.

if I shuffle my cards correctly I should be able to swap out springs, leaning the king way because they have so many spring options and even if I add 500 lbs to the truck I should be able to work out a good spring setup.
 
there comes a time in every mans life when

he needs to think he can engineer a better jack stand... he is wrong but he is going to do it anyways.

<a href="https://imgur.com/CgBJa2k"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/CgBJa2kl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

1"-5 x 6 Feet ACME Threaded Rod and 1"-5 ACME Hex Nut

link to rod
Just a moment...

I did a plasma cutting job for a friend and so in payment he gave me enough 1/4" plate to make 4 of these monsters.

The center is some 1.5" x 3/16 wall dom tube. so the acme threaded rod fits with about 1/16" clearance. just tac'ed up for now, will blast it and then burn thru some wire and make it like rock.

This should give me from about 20" - 32" of danger high jack action.
 
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danger high unlocked

I decided to change the design a bit after the first jack, because god dam even with magic magnets it was pretty freaking hard to keep it all lined up when tacking, welding it.

the key part of the design is the top and bottom colar that is key'ed to keep the supports square and in place. worked really well, if you make things easy to assembly they will be easy to assemble, said a wise man?

<a href="https://imgur.com/0iq4v16"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/0iq4v16l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/t8mlOAS"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/t8mlOASl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Now the problem I have is my jack will not get me high enough to level it, meh it's always some detail I have over looked. But the rear end is 30" off the ground and that is about as far as I would go with these. they are rock solid but a man has his sketch limit I guess.
<a href="https://imgur.com/EUhJV7p"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/EUhJV7pl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

still compared to the habo frieght 6 tons at max sketch this one is just getting rolling.
<a href="https://imgur.com/W3c9BBe"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/W3c9BBel.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/w26OgQH"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/w26OgQHl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

painted them with a couple of can of self etch and then heavy duty ford blue because why the hell not? The can of heavy duty had a picture of a big tracktor on it so it was no contest compared to the other colors with flowers on them.
 
I think it's a bit overkill but sexy as hell

Eventually I was thinking about doing long travel suspension. so I should be able to re-use this thing maybe?

Camburg Steering Heim Clevis Kits - 96-04 Toyota Tacoma
FK Heim Joints / Rod Ends - JMX-12T (3/4 X 3/4 RHT)

total chaos
1st Gen Tacoma/3rd Gen 4Runner Lower Uniball Conversion - TC Heim Steering

17-4 Stainless Steel Misalignment Spacer For 7/8" Heim Or Uniball For 5/8" Bolt 2-1/8" Stack Height

FK Rod Ends 7/8" Left Hand Thread 7/8" Hole JMXL14T-770 PTFE Coated Chromoly Heim Joints

Heim Joints Or Rod Ends 7/8"-14 Left Hand Thread Steel Jam Nuts
Step Race Round Bungs Left Hand Thread For 7/8" Heim Joint For 1-1/2" Diameter 0.120" Wall Tube

Step Race Round Bungs Right Hand Thread For 3/4" Heim Joint For 1-1/2" Diameter 0.120" Wall Tube

<a href="https://imgur.com/xQbGD3S"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/xQbGD3Sh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/Ec38gCQ"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Ec38gCQh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 

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