2000 Manual Clutch Pedal Tight

[chrisparker]

Hi All - I just bought a 2000 5 speed manual and the clutch pedal has a smaller range of motion to it than most manual cars I have driven (I also owned an '88 4runner manual). I am curious if this is typical for this year and/or generation?

Biggest issue though is the clutch pedal is very tight when pushing it down to engage. I basically have to jam it into the floor to get it to start, and apply a great amt. of pressure to switch gears. It also has a little squeak to it. This is hardly an easy/fluid motion like most manuals I have driven in my life.

I would also add that the clutch is a little loose on initial push and then becomes extremely tough to move thereafter. I looked at the movement of the push rod and on first push/movement it is easy, a bit loose even (too much play), and moves upward a tiny bit, and then kind of makes a dullish noise and then straightens and becomes very difficult to move.

I bought it from Autonation and have 2 month warranty on the transmission. I already called and have an appointment to bring it back in on Monday and the sales guy said it would be covered. Is the clutch covered in a trans warranty? The service rep who had my car getting worked on before I bought it said he noticed this issue as well, and the mechanic checked it out and said there was nothing wrong with it.

Any suggestions on possible issues and what I can tell them to check for in a diagnosis (booster bleed the clutch, trans fluid, clutch pedal adjust, rod)? I am not even sure they did much work to see if there was a big issue. The clutch may not be bad, I guess, but I can't drive this thing as is and want it fixed.

Thanks!

 

[Scramble]

Unfortunately that's the design, it has to be planted to the floor for the engine to start. I'm used to it & I guess it's a good theft deterrent. Make sure your floor mat doesn't slide under the pedal or you'll be like WTF!? Why doesn't this start? LOL
I never had the pressure problem you're having but it sounds like the master clutch cylinder needs to be bled. It's a ***** & took me like 12 times to get the air out after I replaced it. A new master cylinder is only around $90 from Camelback.

The squeaking is something I'm still trying to get rid of. I've used regular WD40 & Teflon spray lube on the linkage springs & nothing. Maybe I'm not hitting the right spots. I used to hate it but now I barely hear it. Sometimes it sucks being an original owner because your baby isn't perfect anymore.

 

[MyHigh]

That squeak used to drive me nuts!!

Now, I don't know if it happens anymore or I just don't hear it?

 

[gamefreakgc]

You can adjust both the pedal and the switch which allows you not to have to mash it to the floor to start. The push rod and lock nuts allow you to eliminate the play (which you should not have, only about 1/8 in play or so, easier to check play with your hand than foot) and the switch should be threaded in also with a lock nut and you can bring it out so it activates quicker. Just make sure you don't take it out too much and if you max out the pedal it doesn't break the switch. It works just like your brake stop light switch.

 

[chrisparker]

Thanks for all of the replies. I am not so much concerned about mashing it to the floor as the extreme tightness and great amount of effort it takes to push it in to change gears as well. I mean I have to put some serious force into moving the clutch pedal. I am pretty sure my 75 yr old Dad would refuse to drive it.

Is the master cylinder located inside the trans?

 

[Brad_solo]

It's possible that an aftermarket clutch kit was put in it at some point, which I have found that most aftermarket pressure plates tend to require a bit more effort than OEM. The only way to tell is to remove the transmission though.

 

[Rockdawg84]

I would check the pedal cross bolt at the pivot point. there is a little white bushing that wears out and then the pivot bolt begins to grind into the bracket and can cause binding and noise. I ended up replacing the bracket and the bolts and everything. Works super smooth now.

 

[St Runner]

The FSM has the best adjustment sequence. First adjust the pedal height, it should be about 6 3/4 inches from the top of the pedal to where it hits the floor. This is adjusted at the top of the pedal arm where the cruise control switch is. Next adjust the master cylinder rod so there is just a tiny bit of play. I would bleed it after you make those two adjustments if you think it needs it. The squeak is from the bushings on the clutch spring being worn out. You can either replace the plastic bushings or toss the whole spring out and put in a straight linear spring. I have a brake spring in mine and there is no squeak . Finally make sure the plastic button that the clutch start switch hits when you depress the clutch is not broken. If this doesn't solve it and nothing is binding,the next step is to replace the slave and master(OEM), If that doesn't fix it you will need to drop the transmission. A new clutch and pressure plate will almost always be less effort.

 

[Stiles97]

I swore there was something wrong with my mine when I first started driving it as the pedal effort is much higher than other manuals I've driven as well. 60k miles later it's still the same. I have just gotten use to it. I have to be careful when I get in our civic as I almost put the pedal through the firewall! Lol.

 

[slomatt]

The squeaking is probably the clutch pedal bushings. This is a very common issue on 5spd Tacomas and 4Runners, and there are a lot of how to articles on the internet. I originally pulled out my stock spring and replaced it with a linear "brake" spring, but since then I have replaced all of the bushings and put the stock spring back in place. This fixed the squeak. The problem you might run into is that the clutch arm in the pedal assembly has a notch cut into it where the spring wore through it, I had to build mine back up with some metal.

If you put in a replacement plastic clutch spring bushing it will eventually wear out again. I tried a bronze bushing for a while, but it eventually cracked. I then put in a nylon bushing and it has been working great for over a year. Here are some details.

http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthr...umble-stupid-clutch-bushing-grumble-(pictures)


And here are some details on my battle with the heavy clutch pedal (now fixed).
http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?10278-Stiff-clutch

- Matt

 

[Chuckles89]

You can get new AISIN master and slave cylinders for $60 or so on rockauto

 

[foo]

I would check the pedal cross bolt at the pivot point. there is a little white bushing that wears out and then the pivot bolt begins to grind into the bracket and can cause binding and noise. I ended up replacing the bracket and the bolts and everything. Works super smooth now.

This is great advice, but I'll add the caveat that the small P bushing you're looking for isn't there anymore, most likely (that's why it squeaks).

So what you're looking for is the LACK of the P bushing.
Like this, which Rockdawg84 helped me troubleshoot just last week:

The squeaking is probably the clutch pedal bushings.

This is true, but it's more correct to say it's the LACK of the clutch pedal P bushing (the Q bushings, I think, don't play a major role on the squeaking).

This is a very common issue on 5spd Tacomas and 4Runners, and there are a lot of how to articles on the internet.

I listed all the howto articles I could find on the subject in this thread, if the OP is still working on figuring this one out.

I originally pulled out my stock spring and replaced it with a linear "brake" spring, but since then I have replaced all of the bushings and put the stock spring back in place. This fixed the squeak.

Can you check your P bushing now?
Rockdawg84 checked his this week, and lo and behold the P bushing was gone.

I suspect the frail plastic OEM P bushings could fail in less than a year, but nobody would know it until the geometry changes enough to either cause a squeak or the changes finally cause the pedal to stick (as it did in my case).

So, without looking, it's my current assumption that nobody knows whether their P bushing has failed or not.

The problem you might run into is that the clutch arm in the pedal assembly has a notch cut into it where the spring wore through it, I had to build mine back up with some metal.

You did a nice job.

Most people who remain OEM replace the entire pedal (about $100 at my local stealer).

If you put in a replacement plastic clutch spring bushing it will eventually wear out again. I tried a bronze bushing for a while, but it eventually cracked. I then put in a nylon bushing and it has been working great for over a year. Here are some details.

I loved your thread, which was EXTREMELY helpful!

Rockdawg is gonna follow in your footsteps.

The only problem is that I went to the hardware store and the SIZE of the nylon bushings is problematic.

Since my original bushings were either gone or toast, I needed the dimensions, and I didn't have the clutch pedal bracket in my hands, so I FAILED to get the right sized nylon bushings.

To help the next folks with this problem what I'm asking Rockdawg to do is MEASURE the OEM bushings and then to find suitable nylon replacements that we can point others to that fit.

 

[slomatt]

I loved your thread, which was EXTREMELY helpful!

Rockdawg is gonna follow in your footsteps.

The only problem is that I went to the hardware store and the SIZE of the nylon bushings is problematic.

Since my original bushings were either gone or toast, I needed the dimensions, and I didn't have the clutch pedal bracket in my hands, so I FAILED to get the right sized nylon bushings.

Thanks, I'm glad you found the write up useful. I'm not sure there is a perfectly sized nylon bushing available for sale. I purchased two different sizes, picked the one that was the closest fit, and then modified it to work. Here are some suggestions.

1) Pick a nylon bushing with an outer diameter larger than the notch in your clutch fork. This will vary depending on how worn your fork is. The inner diameter should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the spring.

2) Use calipers to measure the diameter of the spring and drill out the inner hole of the bushing to that size.

3) Cut an opening into the bushing so that it "snaps" over the spring.

4) Use a file to cut notches into the sides of the bushing so that it fits into the fork.

5) Cut the bushing to length so that it fits on the flat part of the spring without binding.

Nylon bushings are inexpensive so you can always buy a couple sizes to try out.

- Matt

 

[foo]

Thanks, I'm glad you found the write up useful. I'm not sure there is a perfectly sized nylon bushing available for sale. I purchased two different sizes, picked the one that was the closest fit, and then modified it to work. Here are some suggestions.

1) Pick a nylon bushing with an outer diameter larger than the notch in your clutch fork. This will vary depending on how worn your fork is. The inner diameter should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the spring.

2) Use calipers to measure the diameter of the spring and drill out the inner hole of the bushing to that size.

3) Cut an opening into the bushing so that it "snaps" over the spring.

4) Use a file to cut notches into the sides of the bushing so that it fits into the fork.

5) Cut the bushing to length so that it fits on the flat part of the spring without binding.

Nylon bushings are inexpensive so you can always buy a couple sizes to try out.

- Matt

Thank Matt for that advice, as Rockdawg84 is gonna do the nylon P bushing mod next.

Since I replaced the double-coil torsion spring with a Toyota clutch-pedal return spring, I have the extra torsion spring to measure to help out Rockdqawg and others.

Measuring the diameter at multiple places, it's pretty consistently around 0.1975 inches.

 

[slomatt]

A few days ago I wrote a post about suggested bushing sizes, but it seems to have dissapeared which is strange.

The summary is that I think I used a bushing with a 3/16" inner diameter that I drilled out to 13/64" to fit over the spring. The outer diameter will depend on how big the hole in the fork is, I think 5/16" is a common OD for these bushings. Length depends on what will fit on the flat part of the spring, I went with about 1/2".

You can find nylon bushings at https://www.mcmaster.com/# or Amazon.

- Matt

 

[foo]

A few days ago I wrote a post about suggested bushing sizes, but it seems to have dissapeared which is strange.

The summary is that I think I used a bushing with a 3/16" inner diameter that I drilled out to 13/64" to fit over the spring. The outer diameter will depend on how big the hole in the fork is, I think 5/16" is a common OD for these bushings. Length depends on what will fit on the flat part of the spring, I went with about 1/2".

You can find nylon bushings at https://www.mcmaster.com/# or Amazon.

- Matt

Hi Matt,
I just saw this, in looking for an update.
I'll bring it over to the other thread to keep all the data together.

The two things we need in detail are:
a. An accurate measurement of OEM unused PQ bushings
b. A part number for a linear spring that doesn't hit in one or two places

Thanks for pitching in to help the next person who comes after us.

 

[Hammer_Dallas]

Same Issue and Repair

I too have a 2000 SR5 5 speed (w/manual 4WD). I had the transmission replaced recently...When I got it back it was doing the same thing...I took it back...Evidently after-market for sure and most OEM kits will not work on the 2000 5 speed. They had to replace the clutch (after MUCH searching). They found one in Detroit and had to ship it to me...Evidently the EXACT clutch kit for this model is required and they are not easy to find. Once (re)repaired it functioned like new. You will have to have a pretty determined guy to track down the exact clutch kit for this one...and he still had to cannibalize a part or two from another kit. Hope this helps.

P.S.
Does anyone know of a thread where I can get info on my 2000 SR5 5 speed 4WD instrument clusters?

I can't figure out how to attach the pictures I need to show. I have them post My profile photo album titled Insturment Cluster..

I really screwed up.

Thanks all,

~ D

 

[Toyotayoda]

Hi All - I just bought a 2000 5 speed manual and the clutch pedal has a smaller range of motion to it than most manual cars I have driven (I also owned an '88 4runner manual). I am curious if this is typical for this year and/or generation?

Biggest issue though is the clutch pedal is very tight when pushing it down to engage. I basically have to jam it into the floor to get it to start, and apply a great amt. of pressure to switch gears. It also has a little squeak to it. This is hardly an easy/fluid motion like most manuals I have driven in my life.

I would also add that the clutch is a little loose on initial push and then becomes extremely tough to move thereafter. I looked at the movement of the push rod and on first push/movement it is easy, a bit loose even (too much play), and moves upward a tiny bit, and then kind of makes a dullish noise and then straightens and becomes very difficult to move.

I bought it from Autonation and have 2 month warranty on the transmission. I already called and have an appointment to bring it back in on Monday and the sales guy said it would be covered. Is the clutch covered in a trans warranty? The service rep who had my car getting worked on before I bought it said he noticed this issue as well, and the mechanic checked it out and said there was nothing wrong with it.

Any suggestions on possible issues and what I can tell them to check for in a diagnosis (booster bleed the clutch, trans fluid, clutch pedal adjust, rod)? I am not even sure they did much work to see if there was a big issue. The clutch may not be bad, I guess, but I can't drive this thing as is and want it fixed.

Thanks!

Symptoms you describe sound like something is wrong with the clutch disc, or perhaps clutch fork. Given the cars age getting clutch components may not be a bad idea. OE is vale, but exedy make a bunch for oe also. Also I see a bunch of posts about the pedals, and rigging a different spring, maybe thats the answer, but because the T4R is worldwide and pedal assembly is serviceable al the little pieces are still available and not very expensive to just make it like new.