final outcome
So I did order a part through a junkyard and got it in a couple days. Looked great in the box, but I did not have time to install. 36 days later and a leak that went from slow to fast, I took the time to replace it. The old MC came out quite easily. 4 nuts from the inside and removed all other attached lines. With some adult supervision (my neighbor is a mechanic) I got the replacement part installed. Come to find out the part I received was faulty. I called the junkyard and they were no help. So, I removed the new MC, robbed the parts from my old MC and swapped everything around. Overall it was more than I wanted to get into with having to install it twice, but doing it for $50 and 6 hours of work was worth it to me. Thanks for all the help! (also, I found a thread on how to bleed the MC / lines without ever having to take it to a dealer) bleed the front two with the car in the off position till you get a firm pedal, then turn car into the "on" position and bleed like you would any normal car. Here is the info below...."
You can bleed the accumulator yourself at home. Have the ignition in the "OFF" position, and repeatedly press and release the brake pedal until you get a firm pedal (if it's air in the accumulator, you should eventually get a firm pedal, if you don't, it's air elsewhere). Once you get the firm pedal, take your foot off the brakes, and turn the ignition to "ON". You'll hear the brake booster pump start. It should shut off after approx 30 or 40 seconds max. If it doesn't, turn the ignition to "OFF" again, and repeat the above procedure until it does.
After that, you bleed your brakes the same as on any other vehicle with the pump/hold method except that you do it with the ignition switch in the "ON" position. That allows pressure to your rear brakes on this type of system. Otherwise, you'll have 0 psi at the rear brakes (which you probably already know.)
As an alternative, you can build a cheap power bleeder like I did here and give that a shot. Using this method, you don't need the ignition in the "ON" position. You simply pressurize the reservoir, then crack open the bleeders one at a time. "
