2001 Multi-Mode to J-Shift Conversion?

[shadow247]

I'm getting sick and tired of fooling with the ADD and TCASE Actuators on my Limited with Multi-Mode.

Went wheeling again this weekend, and the 4wd light is flashing after taking it out of 4wd before leaving the trails. I plan to do a manual hub conversion as well. I'm not concerned about the 4wd lights working, and I already have a standalone E-locker in the rear.

Can I just buy a J-shift from a 99 SR5 and bolt it right up with my existing driveshafts? Assuming I would need the shifter as well.

 

[JohnMc]

AFAIK the multi-mode case is a few inches longer than a J-shift, so you'd need the driveshafts as well.

 

[Pyral]

Seems like there might be some wiring, and a lot of it seems to change between model year.

I'm sure it can be done. Here is a thread for a 2000. You do need a new drive shaft

 

[Team_Jake]

The multi-mode transfer case is 3" longer than the j-shift transfer case, so the driveshafts have to be modified accordingly.

 

[phattyduck]

Assuming you do manual hubs at the same time and you don't want/need the indicator light on the dash, you need 0 wiring for the 4WD system with a J-shift case. You do need the correct driveshafts, as others have mentioned. Same flanges, different length.

-Charlie

 

[Bad Luck]

Assuming you do manual hubs at the same time and you don't want/need the indicator light on the dash, you need 0 wiring for the 4WD system with a J-shift case. You do need the correct driveshafts, as others have mentioned. Same flanges, different length.

-Charlie

I was going to say the same thing, but I'm wondering if the ECM needs to know if you are in 4LO to adjust shift points or gears. I vaguely remember something about 4LO and the transmission in L it will stay in 1st. I'm probably wrong

 

[Devbot]

This is probably a stupid question, but wouldn't the center diff be a problem too?

 

[jgue467]

I'm getting sick and tired of fooling with the ADD and TCASE Actuators on my Limited with Multi-Mode.

Went wheeling again this weekend, and the 4wd light is flashing after taking it out of 4wd before leaving the trails. I plan to do a manual hub conversion as well. I'm not concerned about the 4wd lights working, and I already have a standalone E-locker in the rear.

Can I just buy a J-shift from a 99 SR5 and bolt it right up with my existing driveshafts? Assuming I would need the shifter as well.

This is mostly due to under use in the past.

Have you done the procedure on the card above the driver's visor?

When was last time diff fluids were changed?

As a last resort, when engaging try a right turn, when disengaging try a left turn, worked for mine when I bought it 12yrs ago from someone who Never used 4wd. Doing this for a few months each time I went off-roading and along with new fluids slowly made it work like a Champ, now its 1 second engagement/disengagement, woohoo!

I wouldn't get rid of what you've got, its better than previous gens, keeps you going Straight on super slipper surfaces like black/clear ice, snow, sand and Mud, my favorite!!

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I had to do the above for the 97 limited puppy hauler. The manual says to engage 4wd and the rear diff lock once a month to keep it exercised. It took a little but started working correctly.


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[Bad Luck]

This is probably a stupid question, but wouldn't the center diff be a problem too?

A J-shift transfer case (VF2A) doesn't have a center differential. It's an all mechanical case that doesn't have any actuators or electronic controls on or in it.

 

[shadow247]

This is mostly due to under use in the past.

Have you done the procedure on the card above the driver's visor?

When was last time diff fluids were changed?

As a last resort, when engaging try a right turn, when disengaging try a left turn, worked for mine when I bought it 12yrs ago from someone who Never used 4wd. Doing this for a few months each time I went off-roading and along with new fluids slowly made it work like a Champ, now its 1 second engagement/disengagement, woohoo!

I wouldn't get rid of what you've got, its better than previous gens, keeps you going Straight on super slipper surfaces like black/clear ice, snow, sand and Mud, my favorite!!

I'm 1000 miles ahead of you. I have been using it once a month, had 0 problems until a few weeks ago when it would not engage at the trails. Mud was caking up the connector on the ADD after a single run, causing poor connection. It worked flawlessly last time I went out for the day. Went wheeling 3 days in a row, never took it out of 4x4. I have not gotten around to finding out if it's the ADD that's not unlocked or the Diff, but I suspect it's the diff actuator.

I'm just done with the electronics period. If I have to spend a few hundreds bucks on failed actuators, I might as well put that towards the J-shift and manual hub conversion.

Changed fluid every 30k, Changed it 2 weeks ago after replacing the Front Dshaft output seal. Fluid looked and smelled brand new. Actuator moves solidly when I manually jump it. It works 100 percent of the time when it's off the ground on the jack stands. I'm just over it. Not going to throw any more money at it. All limit switches tested and working on the rear of the t-case.

 

[JohnMc]

I've got a doubler case (NWF Eco Crawler) coming soon, and I was mildly curious about a multi-mode xfer case. I figured I could bypass the ECU controls and just make an AWD/4WD switch. But once I measured one in a junkyard, I realized that with it on the end of the doubler I'd be into the gas tank. That's too much of a project just to get an AWD mode I'd probably practically never use.

 

[shadow247]

I've got a doubler case (NWF Eco Crawler) coming soon, and I was mildly curious about a multi-mode xfer case. I figured I could bypass the ECU controls and just make an AWD/4WD switch. But once I measured one in a junkyard, I realized that with it on the end of the doubler I'd be into the gas tank. That's too much of a project just to get an AWD mode I'd probably practically never use.

That's my thought as well. I eventually want to add the Northwest Fab doubler, and that's not possible with the stock gas tank with the Multi-Mode. To me, it's just another thing to break. I need TRUE 4WD. AWD is useless to me on the trails, and I have a Subaru Outback that is much better for driving in general snowy conditions. Of course I put a few hundred miles on my other 3rd Gen with J-shift in the snow and it works just fine as well. I can't really think of a reason I would want AWD in this thing. The 1 or 2 times I did use it on the street during heavy rains, it seems terribly clunky and not at all smooth compared to my Subaru.

 

[shadow247]

A J-shift transfer case (VF2A) doesn't have a center differential. It's an all mechanical case that doesn't have any actuators or electronic controls on or in it.

You seem to be pretty familiar with this.

Do I need Front and Rear driveshafts, or just the rear? Seems like it's the rear of the case that is longer when I compare them, but it's hard to tell.

 

[Team_Jake]

Do I need Front and Rear driveshafts, or just the rear? Seems like it's the rear of the case that is longer when I compare them, but it's hard to tell.

You need both front and rear. Both output flanges on the multi-mode case are 3" further to the rear of the vehicle compared to the j-shift transfer case.

 

[shadow247]

You need both front and rear. Both output flanges on the multi-mode case are 3" further to the rear of the vehicle compared to the j-shift transfer case.

Thanks for the info! Now to start saving my pennies!

 

[Bad Luck]

Thanks for the info! Now to start saving my pennies!

I had to order new front and rear driveshafts for my manual 4Runner since I couldn't find any used driveshafts and it was around $900 from tom wood's. If I was you I would look for used driveshafts. 1996-2000 v6 automatic with j-shift (not Limited trim) will be the right length driveshafts to go with your j-shift transfer case.

 

[shadow247]

I had to order new front and rear driveshafts for my manual 4Runner since I couldn't find any used driveshafts and it was around $900 from tom wood's. If I was you I would look for used driveshafts. 1996-2000 v6 automatic with j-shift (not Limited trim) will be the right length driveshafts to go with your j-shift transfer case.

Definitely going to hunt some used shafts, and attempt to rebuild them. I need to source the "ball" thats in the rear shaft. Seems like that's the one that is dang near impossible to find.

I have a good friend who is very good at replacing u-joints, so I'm not afraid of that part of it. It may be worth it though to just go straight to the super beefy Tom Woods shaft once I add up all the parts cost plus my personal time.

 

[phattyduck]

I was going to say the same thing, but I'm wondering if the ECM needs to know if you are in 4LO to adjust shift points or gears. I vaguely remember something about 4LO and the transmission in L it will stay in 1st. I'm probably wrong

I run mine with a 2WD ECU... this shifts in LO are harsh, but whatever. Put it in 1st/L for all the hard stuff anyway...

-Charlie

 

[shadow247]

I run mine with a 2WD ECU... this shifts in LO are harsh, but whatever. Put it in 1st/L for all the hard stuff anyway...

-Charlie

Yeah my buddy Nick in his 2wd Conversion puts his in 2nd gear/4Lo and leaves it there. If we get over 5mph, he just stops for half a second and shifts to 4hi.

I don't think it does much anyway, as the shifts when in D/4Lo are Atrocious and feel like they may be causing damage, hence the reason I leave mine 2 or L depending on the terrain.