2002 Power Antenna Switch

Fellow T4R Members,

Recently my power antenna broke, will not go down but motor still spins and tries to move it. I ordered a replacement and will be waiting anxiously for it to arrive. In the mean time, I would like to wire up a switch that disables the power antenna from going up even while I am using the radio.

From what I have been reading, our models have 2 antenna. One in the front and one embedded in the rear window glass. And apparently the one in the rear glass is sufficient for 90% of the time. Has anyone wired up a switch of their own for this purpose, and if so, would you give some pics and guidance?

I will be picking up the y cable and adaptor Rock Slide used on Yotatech write up here, but need more information on which wire to splice for the antenna switch. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
J
 
Register to hide this ad
I've had the Tacoma whip mod antenna installed for so long I read your post and went "Our trucks could come with power antenna's?"

As for installing a switch I imagine it would be super easy motor is only a two wire system and it runs through the passenger side fender well then into the cab behind the glove box along the dash frame rail. Now adding a current reversal loop for retraction, that would be tricky.

GO TACO WHIP!

I know someone on here was installing a LC power antenna manual switch but I don't know who or if that ever came to fruition.

If you're looking for a simple temporary solution pull your fender liner back and just unplug the motor.
 
Couldn't you simply install a "on/off" switch so the while "on" it will function normally and while "off" the wire running from the stereo would be "broken" so it could stay in the down position?
 
Couldn't you simply install a "on/off" switch so the while "on" it will function normally and while "off" the wire running from the stereo would be "broken" so it could stay in the down position?

Thats what I did. I never really use the am/fm radio anyway so its always down but, I have the option to raise it with the switch if I need the radio for some reason.
I just cut the blue power antenna wire that came out of the head unit and put a switch on the left side of the dash
 
Thats what I did. I never really use the am/fm radio anyway so its always down but, I have the option to raise it with the switch if I need the radio for some reason.
I just cut the blue power antenna wire that came out of the head unit and put a switch on the left side of the dash

I did the same thing, I dont have any pictures but I put the switch on the left side of the cubby hole below the ashtray. Works awesome since I hardly ever use the radio with my aftermarket headunit.
 
Pictures

Thats what I did. I never really use the am/fm radio anyway so its always down but, I have the option to raise it with the switch if I need the radio for some reason.
I just cut the blue power antenna wire that came out of the head unit and put a switch on the left side of the dash

Twisted Sid, You got any pictures or the wiring diagram you used? That would be much appreciated.

Thanks for the reply by the way.:thumb3:
 
There was no wiring diagram needed. I did this when I was installing my new head unit. But like I said before, I cut the blue power antenna wire and put the switch inline with it. Its the simplest wiring job there is.
 
I installed a micro rocker switch next to the HU. The one I used required soldering but if I was you I would pick a spot you want the switch mounted and choose a switch type/size based on the location. Getting one that fits into the dash blanks to the left of the steering wheel is one of the easier installs because they snap right in.

4926F091-AC54-4451-BDF5-F23A0CBE3BFF_zpsxucwmnfj.jpg~original
 
Here is where I mounted the switch on mine


Connections on the back


Where I tapped into the "remote" line coming from the headuint. It was a dark blue on my harness. The clear blue wire runs to the sub to turn it on. This was it works full time but the antenna is switched.
 
What's the best way just to replace the metal antenna. everything works, but I got a kink in it, and it won't retract all the way in, due to the kink. Any quick and way to fix?
 
Replace it. Don't go with a cheap one of of eBay either. I made that mistake and it failed after about 15 cycles. The second one I got was from www.AntennaMastsRus.com. It was about 25$ shipped and has worked perfectly for over a year.
 
Love this Forum!

Guys, and maybe Gals,
Thanks for the info and the pictures!

@Black798 thats exactly what I was looking for. I just needed a picture of which wire you all spliced for the switch. Much appreciated! Also, I like the switch in that location beneath the cig lighter. What a weird space that seemingly could be used more efficiently.
[MENTION=68460]Dezert4Runner[/MENTION] While I was initially searching, I did see your post and really liked the micro switch next to the head unit. I may go that route. looks factory, and very stealth. There are so few knockout slots, real estate is limited.
[MENTION=9]Jason B[/MENTION]. I went with an OEM one for about $60 from Toyota. Along with the switch, hope it will last me a while.

:thanks::thumb:
 
I added a switch to my antenna too, but I can't remember the color of the wire. If I get a chance, I'll pop it out and look. I want a different button. I don't like this one.

It would be nice to have a thread and link just dedicated to the various button options and links to where we could find them.

unnamed-5_zpsfbb7135c.jpg~original
[/QUOTE]
 
Check post 58 on my thread. I detail what all is needed, part numbers and such for a perfect OEM looking installation which fits an OEM switch knockout.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ner-restore-refurb-re-work-4.html#post2109886

Found your post, and saw this is the one you used:

Toyota 4 Runner Power Antenna Mast 1996-2002 BRAND NEW & STAINLESS STEEL | eBay

I have a switch already on mine. Now, do you really need to remove the pass side tire to replace the mast only?
 
If you are certain it is the whole motor and not just needing a new mast... then yes you have to remove the fender. Sucky project. Both my cars just needed a new mast.

Not the fender, just the plastic fender liner. Not that bad, when you accept that the plastic rivets can't be saved by any known technique (well, maybe one in four, but not worth the effort to do so) and attack them with the necessary violence. I punched, cut and drilled--all worked, all were pretty much the same amount of pain.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,046
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top