2003 V8 Hitch rating

[wahoossi]

I assume this is the lower rated 5000lb. Rated hitch. My 2003 is one of the plastic clad versions and must be one of the earlier versions. I want to tow my bay boat and with trailer etc. that would be pushing the limit. Can anyone recommend an aftermarket upgrade? Would you get one from Uhaul or would it be better to order one from trailer and have it installed? If so could someone give me the link to the right model?. I have towed the boat with the old hitch and had no problems but will be making a 5 hour drive on flat rural highways to vacation in SW Fla from GA . My trailer is a high end newer trailer with dual axels and doc brakes. I would rather not have to get a new vehicle.

 

[Bossman]

Some threads on the early 2003 V8 tow hitch rating:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/102949-early-v8-towing-capacity.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/30825-v8-tow-rating-03-vs-05-a.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/214685-how-much-can-you-push-tow-rating.html

 

[AuSeeker]

Your hitch is what is termed the "V6 Hitch" and is mounted only to a rear cross member the rating is #5000, the "V8 Hitch" is more robust
since it is attached to the main frame and not a cross member it's rated at #7000 (4WD) to #7300 (2WD) BUT only when using a
WDH (weight distributing hitch) otherwise it's only rated at #5000, even though both hitches are rated at #5000 the V6 hitch CANNOT be
rated more by using a WDH because Toyota says it isn't safe to do so with the V6 hitch as it can't effectively transfer the additonal weight
to the vehicle's frame via the rear cross member which is what the WDH does.

Just an FYI if you're not aware a WDH is not the hitch attached to your vehicle but an attachment added on the tongue of the tralier which
then hooks up to your hitch, what it does is tranfers some of the weight of the trailer to the front of the vehicle through the frame, which also
helps level out your vehicle for safer towing of a heavier load/trailer.

If you buy an after market hitch, I would say either Reese, Curt or Draw-Tite brands and at least a class 3, which are usually rated for #6000
and #600 tongue weight, if your boat and trailer weight more than that go with class 4 if you can find one for a 2003 4Runner.

 

[wahoossi]

Your hitch is what is termed the "V6 Hitch" and is mounted only to a rear cross member the rating is #5000, the "V8 Hitch" is more robust
since it is attached to the main frame and not a cross member it's rated at #7000 (4WD) to #7300 (2WD) BUT only when using a
WDH (weight distributing hitch) otherwise it's only rated at #5000, even though both hitches are rated at #5000 the V6 hitch CANNOT be
rated more by using a WDH because Toyota says it isn't safe to do so with the V6 hitch as it can't effectively transfer the additonal weight
to the vehicle's frame via the rear cross member which is what the WDH does.

Just an FYI if you're not aware a WDH is not the hitch attached to your vehicle but an attachment added on the tongue of the tralier which
then hooks up to your hitch, what it does is tranfers some of the weight of the trailer to the front of the vehicle through the frame, which also
helps level out your vehicle for safer towing of a heavier load/trailer.

If you buy an after market hitch, I would say either Reese, Curt or Draw-Tite brands and at least a class 3, which are usually rated for #6000
and #600 tongue weight, if your boat and trailer weight more than that go with class 4 if you can find one for a 2003 4Runner.

Thanks for the replies and the information
My boat is a Contender Bay 25 and my trailer is an aluminum dual axel Ameratrail. The website (Contender) states the dry weight of the boat is 2300 lbs., 3500 lbs. fully loaded. I am not sure what an aluminum trailer weighs but I assume it is at least 1000 lbs. I have pulled the boat before long distance ( Inverness to Jacksonville area) and it was easy. I keep the boat in dry rack storage ( the put it in the water when I want to use it) and only use the trailer once or twice a year for vacations, will be to Sw FL or the Keys, 200 miles flat highway, no hills. I will likely upgrade to class 3, but do you think I need to lay out another $500 for an additional 1000lbs rating? I am all about safety but the WDH (is this it in following pics
?) looks complicated and cumbersome and potentially dangerous if I screw it up. If it makes the trailering experience safer and less stressful it is worth it to me however.
I also included hitch I was considering.

 

[AuSeeker]

Thanks for the replies and the information
My boat is a Contender Bay 25 and my trailer is an aluminum dual axel Ameratrail. The website (Contender) states the dry weight of the boat
is 2300 lbs., 3500 lbs. fully loaded. I am not sure what an aluminum trailer weighs but I assume it is at least 1000 lbs. I have pulled the boat
before long distance ( Inverness to Jacksonville area) and it was easy. I keep the boat in dry rack storage ( the put it in the water when I want
to use it) and only use the trailer once or twice a year for vacations, will be to Sw FL or the Keys, 200 miles flat highway, no hills. I will likely
upgrade to class 3, but do you think I need to lay out another $500 for an additional 1000lbs rating? I am all about safety but the WDH (is this
it in following pics
?) looks complicated and cumbersome and potentially dangerous if I screw it up. If it makes the trailering experience safer and less stressful it
is worth it to me however.
I also included hitch I was considering.

That class 3 hitch should work just fine, and yes that's a WDH, I would wait and see how she tows with the new hitch, if you need to add the
WDH you can do so enroute if you feel you need it, it will make towing a lot better and safer experience if you're up around #5000 and especially
if it's more weight, what you will most likely encounter the most is the rear of your T4R sagging more than it should for safe towing because it
takes weight off the front of the vehicle which causes the alignment to be off causing steering and braking issues, this can also be countered
by adding air bags in your rear springs to raise the rear back up and level the vehicle which is much cheaper than a WDH and also you can still
add the WDH if you feel you may
still need it, if you do get the WHD get it from experienced trailer/towing supplier and also have them help you install it and especially show
you how to properly set it up, if installed and especially setup incorrectly it could be worst than not having the WDH at all or at the very least
no better.

Do you have the additional transmission cooler, If not, it would be good insurance to install one to avoid over heating your tranmission which
could do major damage to it, it gets awful hot in Florida this time of year?

Another addition I would recommend if your trailer is equipped with trailer brakes is a brake controller.

 

[wahoossi]

Thank you so much Skip, I just noticed you were in my neck of the woods! Do you happen to know anyone in the Savannah/Brunswick or Jacksonville area that sells and installs hitches, WDH’s and brake controllers that does a good job for a reasonable price. I have done a lot of the work on my truck but most of that was before two shoulder and one major back surgery. Brakes scare me.

 

[AuSeeker]

Unfortunately I don't, I do my own work on my vehicles and it's been years since I have had to do any of this type of work or need any of this tpye of equipment.

 

[Antoddio]

Thanks for the replies and the information

My boat is a Contender Bay 25 and my trailer is an aluminum dual axel Ameratrail. The website (Contender) states the dry weight of the boat is 2300 lbs., 3500 lbs. fully loaded. I am not sure what an aluminum trailer weighs but I assume it is at least 1000 lbs. I have pulled the boat before long distance ( Inverness to Jacksonville area) and it was easy. I keep the boat in dry rack storage ( the put it in the water when I want to use it) and only use the trailer once or twice a year for vacations, will be to Sw FL or the Keys, 200 miles flat highway, no hills. I will likely upgrade to class 3, but do you think I need to lay out another $500 for an additional 1000lbs rating? I am all about safety but the WDH (is this it in following pics

?) looks complicated and cumbersome and potentially dangerous if I screw it up. If it makes the trailering experience safer and less stressful it is worth it to me however.

I also included hitch I was considering.

I’ve read that WDH are not for boat trailers. I don’t know why but likely because of but low tongue weight of boat trailers.

5400 lbs dry weight here, before the trailer. Been towing boats like this for a decade with the ‘04 V8. I do have the frame mounted hitch and the oil cooler...stock items. I’d say those are necessary.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[AuSeeker]

I’ve read that WDH are not for boat trailers. I don’t know why but likely because of but low tongue weight of boat trailers.

5400 lbs dry weight here, before the trailer. Been towing boats like this for a decade with the ‘04 V8. I do have the frame mounted hitch and the oil cooler...stock items. I’d say those are necessary.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm glad that someone with similar setup and towing a boat has chimed in here, I was hoping that would happen.

Your T4R looks to be pretty level, do you have air bags installed, I know there are others here who tow boats that do?

 

[Antoddio]

I'm glad that someone with similar setup and towing a boat has chimed in here, I was hoping that would happen.

Your T4R looks to be pretty level, do you have air bags installed, I know there are others here who tow boats that do?

Yup, I have some air bags that have been trouble free for 6 years or so. Probably only filled them 3 or 4 times.

The setup is not a rocket ship, but it works, even up mountains.

 

[wahoossi]

I do have the transmission cooler. I am a bit of a towing newbie. What are air bags and how do I get them? Are they an easy install? Where do they go?

 

[AuSeeker]

https://www.autoanything.com/suspen...MIw_7qyvGo2wIVTksNCh2Few2OEAQYAyABEgJbH_D_BwE

https://b.cdnbrm.com/images/info/firestone/4135.pdf

 

[wahoossi]

Here is a picture of mine. Unfortunately I do not have a picture with the rear wheels but I don’t recall any squat . Obviously I don’t see it when I am driving but it doesn’t feel like it. The trailer has a real low center of gravity and the boat is very light weight/low draft shallow water specific fishing boat. Thanks.

 

[AuSeeker]

I would say you would be just fine with the new class 3 hitch, though I'm not sure on if you need to add the air bags with out seeing how your T4R sits with the trailer hooked up, I'm also not sure if you need the brake controller, it's hard to tell but it looks like you have a hydraulic brake actuator on the trailer, if it's what I think you have on there it activates the trailer brakes automatically when you brake using the weight of the load to apply the tralier brakes, you need to contact the trailer manufacturer to see if that is the case of how the trailer brakes work.

 

[KBToys]

The reason why they don't recommend WDH on boat trailers is due to most of the boat trailers have surge brakes

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[Antoddio]

https://www.autoanything.com/suspen...MIw_7qyvGo2wIVTksNCh2Few2OEAQYAyABEgJbH_D_BwE

https://b.cdnbrm.com/images/info/firestone/4135.pdf

What he said...also the AirLift company makes them as well. That's the one I used and has been great.