2005 Sequoia Cranks but won’t start

xcmountain80

New member
It is the damndest thing. Parked it last weekend, then it would t start, turns over with plenty of power but won’t start. I troubleshot it down to what I believe is a faulty fuel pump given the mileage. Nope that wasn’t it. Have checked resistance in the camshaft position sensor, multiple relays, but could be doing that incorrectly as I don’t know which pin activated the gate on the relay. MAF was a bust as I don’t know which pin configuration will give me a reading. Spark plugs need to be replaced but should not be the root issue. Also spark plugs were not wet with fuel when I checked following a crank attempt, which tells me there I may be restricting the flow of fuel. I have no check engine light and no codes. I have eliminated the possibility of the built in security device (chipped keys).


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Fixed it. The nagging feeling that I was missing something was lurking in the back of my mind. I hadn’t tested either fuel pump old
Or pre owned that I installed. So I dismantle the old one and hooked it up, nothing, but it did eventually smoke and I’m pretty sure that’s bad for a fuel component. I was dead set on testing the now installed pre owned fuel pump. But first let’s triple check the spark. We know it runs on starting fluid so spark is Probably fine. Pulled a plug, cranked it and spark t the block (valve cover). The. I started the removal of the tank again, I got as far as removing the last connection 1/2 way dropped which is the electrical connection. I was going to plug my volt meter with the max setting engaged to capture the voltage from the ecu when it is started. Then I noticed it. The little plug on the fuel pump ground was out further than the others. Could it be that simple? Pushed it in, hooked up the bolt meter and sob I got 12.5 volts. Ok, coated it with dielectric grease and plugged it in. Turned it
Over and has on the ground,,,,,,that’s what I’m talking about. Reinstalled and the rest is history.
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Well SOB if the used OE part from eBay didn’t die 7 months later. Ugh, on the upside I did find that you can just replace the fuel pump and filter inside the assembly. The Denso unit will run you $138. I checked the resistance of the old unit and it tested at 3.5 and leveled out at 2.5 ohms where the new unit tested at 1.5 and leveled out at 0.9 ohms. A bench test revealed that both units work, the new unit far more punch than the original, the old one did work. I checked the resistance again after the bench test and the old unit came in at 2.6 and leveled out at 1.8. I’m not huge on electrical knowledge or knowhow, I can troubleshoot.


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