2005 Sport won't start

I believe they were P0340 and P0345 if I remember correctly. I Wrote them down but I don't have the paper in front of me at the moment. How would I know if the chain is worn beyond it's useable length?

You can gauge chain length by the extended length of the tensioner plunger after removing the 4-bolt cover.

Factory new chain has the plunger at approx 1/4". Mine was stretched nearly a full link, and looked like this.
 

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I believe they were P0340 and P0345 if I remember correctly.

edit: here's a link to the service manual page for these 2 error codes, including a diagnostic procedure...you can do steps 2 & 3 with a regular multi-meter.
http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/data/ileaf/06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/0050032.pdf

And here's what the holy service manual says about P0340 and P0345:

DTC No. P0340, P0345

DTC Detection Conditions
•Input voltage to ECM remains 0.3 V or less, or 4.7
V or higher for more than 5 seconds, when 2 or
more seconds have elapsed after turning the
ignition switch ON (2 trip detection logic)
•No VVT sensor signal to ECM during cranking (1
trip detection logic)

Trouble Areas

•Open or short in VVT sensor circuit
•VVT sensor
•Camshaft timing pulley
•Jumped tooth of timing chain
•ECM
 
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You can gauge chain length by the extended length of the tensioner plunger after removing the 4-bolt cover.

Factory new chain has the plunger at approx 1/4". Mine was stretched nearly a full link, and looked like this.

How many miles were on yours when you replaced the chains? I already have the 2 cam sensors so they're going in either way. I guess from there if it doesn't solve the problem I could have a bad VVT sensor or a worn chain.
 
How many miles were on yours when you replaced the chains? I already have the 2 cam sensors so they're going in either way. I guess from there if it doesn't solve the problem I could have a bad VVT sensor or a worn chain.

Make sure you apply a light coat of clean motor oil on the new cam position sensor o-rings so they don't tear during installation. Blow the area around them clean before removing the old sensors, so no abrasive debris drops down the holes into the engine.

I bought it from the original owner for cheap with 164K miles on it and a persistent P0016 error code, ToyotaCare records show it started throwing this code at 96K miles. The guy was just not an oil changer...22K mile average oil change interval and a fair amount of sludge inside the valve covers.

The 2005 engine uses different & narrower reluctor wheels on the intake cams, and sends a different waveform to the ECM for cam position monitoring. While yours isn't throwing the same error code, it's possible that the main chain is stretched. Pulling the small cover is a quick diagnostic step to get you in the ballpark.

Don't go crazy tightening the 4 bolts during reinstallation, they spec at ~9N*m if memory serves...the bolts thread into aluminum and are easy to strip, so use a torque wrench and tighten exactly to spec in an X pattern.
 
Couple guys on here have had the cam position sensor wire cut by the fan belt... after engine work disrupted the wire routing.

Yep, I was one of them that this happened to. It did the exact same thing your referring to also. The truck was running fine and I stoped for fuel then bam, crank no start. Turns out the when I had the AC compressor installed the CPS line was not looped back in correctly and rubbed on the serpentine. It just happened to short when I stopped.
 
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Make sure you apply a light coat of clean motor oil on the new cam position sensor o-rings so they don't tear during installation. Blow the area around them clean before removing the old sensors, so no abrasive debris drops down the holes into the engine.

I bought it from the original owner for cheap with 164K miles on it and a persistent P0016 error code, ToyotaCare records show it started throwing this code at 96K miles. The guy was just not an oil changer...22K mile average oil change interval and a fair amount of sludge inside the valve covers.

The 2005 engine uses different & narrower reluctor wheels on the intake cams, and sends a different waveform to the ECM for cam position monitoring. While yours isn't throwing the same error code, it's possible that the main chain is stretched. Pulling the small cover is a quick diagnostic step to get you in the ballpark.

Don't go crazy tightening the 4 bolts during reinstallation, they spec at ~9N*m if memory serves...the bolts thread into aluminum and are easy to strip, so use a torque wrench and tighten exactly to spec in an X pattern.

This is at 250K and while I'm not the original owner, the friend I bought it from is. I can tell you with certainty he has never had the chain replaced and he was not great with oil changes but certainly not 22K miles average lol. I will replace the sensors and check the tensioner to see where it's at. If the sensors solve the problem I may do the chains anyway depending on what I find. What chain kit did you use? I found this one but haven't ordered anything yet.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-03-12-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
 
What chain kit did you use? I found this one but haven't ordered anything yet.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-03-12-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I used Toyota parts from one of the online dealerships. Cost more, but worth it it my opinion. I'd avoid eBay kits given unknown manufacturer and quality. If I had gone with an aftermarket kit, I'd have used the Cloyes one.

You'll also need various gaskets and o-rings, e.g. intake, timing cover o-rings, water pump, thermostat housing, valve covers, FIPG sealant. It adds up quickly and the project is a PITA. Wouldn't do it unless the main chain is stretched.

If your chain tensioner doesn't show stretch, and the new cam pos sensors don't fix it, it's likely either wiring or the ECM as shown in the diagnostic procedure.
 
Just a thought...you said he recently had exhaust work done. If there was stick welding involved, and the guy grounded the welder to the frame and left the battery connected, it's possible that the ECM was damaged. I'd think any damage to the electronics would have been immediate, but it's possible. How long between the exhaust work and the vehicle failure?

The odds of both cam pos sensors failing simultaneously are astronomical. Don't throw out your factory sensors...if you bought aftermarket sensors, you may end up swapping the factory ones back in later.

If the new sensors don't fix it and the wiring checks out, move on to the ECM. I'd start by disconnecting each connector hood and inspecting the pins for corrosion or other warning signs. Then spray with electronics cleaner, dry out, reconnect, and re-test.

If still no go, you can get a used ECM for around $100 via car-part.com and manually reprogram the security immobilizer yourself if you have a master key. If this fixes it, you'll need a TIS or Snap-On shop scanner to reprogram the VIN and get rid of the dash light...but it will start and run. Dealership can do it, and some locksmiths may be able to as well.
 
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Well I swapped the 2 cam sensors today and while doing so I found a wire that had pulled out of the plug for the TPS sensor on the TB Thought I got it but sadly no change at all. I pulled the inspection cover off the timing cover and I can see the tensioner looks like it's maxed out, fully extended. Guess I'll be throwing a timing set at it lol I don't know if the chain actually broke which I would think is unlikely. This truck ran fine Monday, wouldn't start Tuesday, just cranked and it does sound out of time. It's not a normal crank but there is no binding or "free spinning" while turning over. Every revolution sounds exactly the same. Is the 2005 4.0 an interference engine and if so, what are the odds of valve damage from just cranking?
 
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A 1-tooth chain jump would still have the engine trying to start, misfiring, maybe even running roughly. I think you have something else going on in there...it's my understanding that the ECM uses the cam sensor signals to fire the injectors and coils, and it doesn't sound like this is happening.

Can you post a picture of the tensioner showing the plunger?

The 1GR-FE may be an interference engine, but I found during the chain replacement that rotating the cams did not cause valves to hit pistons. I didn't go crazy spinning the cams, but they had to be rotated several teeth in either direction while positioning the marked links and idler gear. If it is an interference engine, there's quite a bit of safety margin. A simple jump of 1-2 teeth would not cause a collision.


Well I swapped the 2 cam sensors today and while doing so I found a wire that had pulled out of the plug for the TPS sensor on the TB Thought I got it but sadly no change at all. I pulled the inspection cover off the timing cover and I can see the tensioner looks like it's maxed out, fully extended. Guess I'll be throwing a timing set at it lol I don't know if the chain actually broke which I would think is unlikely. This truck ran fine Monday, wouldn't start Tuesday, just cranked and it does sound out of time. It's not a normal crank but there is no binding or "free spinning" while turning over. Every revolution sounds exactly the same. Is the 2005 4.0 an interference engine and if so, what are the odds of valve damage from just cranking?
 
Sold the truck today for 3x what I paid for it. I do however know the person I sold it to though. He needed a truck, knows the issues, made me an offer, I said screw it, easy money and everyone is happy. I do plan to help him with repairs so this thread will be updated as we proceed.
 
Well scratch that, coworker backed out due to money issues or more likely his wife not wanting another project lol. I did however confirm today that the chain is broken, not just skipped a tooth. Looking down the oil fill I can see the chain and it does not move while cranking the engine. Wish I realized I could see the chain sooner, would have saved a bunch of digging around. I'll likely order a chain kit and gasket set and tackle it myself over the next couple months. I have very little time to work on this stuff so may be a while until it's done.
 
Well scratch that, coworker backed out due to money issues or more likely his wife not wanting another project lol. I did however confirm today that the chain is broken, not just skipped a tooth. Looking down the oil fill I can see the chain and it does not move while cranking the engine.

That's a rare failure. I researched timing chain failures in the 1GR-FE engine extensively after I bought my 4Runner project last year, and did not find a single breakage. Plenty of elongation due to wear, especially in the '07 manufacture year.

I posted notes and pics somewhere here that may help w/ your project. And like I said earlier, the Cloyes kit seems to be a good balance of cost & quality. They're a very reputable company.

As far as yours goes, you can check for bent valves after you get the valve covers off. Rotate the crank to put the balancer zero stripe right on the timing tab zero mark, and then *gently* rotate the intake cams (and exhaust as they're chain driven off the intakes) to put them at their respective zero marks. If the cam stops turning and you hear/feel metal on metal, reverse direction and try again. Then follow the shop manual guide to check clearance between the cam lobes and valves w/ a feeler gauge. You'll get most, but not all, valves this way. You can check the rest by rotating the intake cam while watching the cam lobes that were on lift, and check them when the lobe is past the valve. Bent valves will show up as excessive clearance.
 
That's a rare failure. I researched timing chain failures in the 1GR-FE engine extensively after I bought my 4Runner project last year, and did not find a single breakage. Plenty of elongation due to wear, especially in the '07 manufacture year.

I posted notes and pics somewhere here that may help w/ your project. And like I said earlier, the Cloyes kit seems to be a good balance of cost & quality. They're a very reputable company.

As far as yours goes, you can check for bent valves after you get the valve covers off. Rotate the crank to put the balancer zero stripe right on the timing tab zero mark, and then *gently* rotate the intake cams (and exhaust as they're chain driven off the intakes) to put them at their respective zero marks. If the cam stops turning and you hear/feel metal on metal, reverse direction and try again. Then follow the shop manual guide to check clearance between the cam lobes and valves w/ a feeler gauge. You'll get most, but not all, valves this way. You can check the rest by rotating the intake cam while watching the cam lobes that were on lift, and check them when the lobe is past the valve. Bent valves will show up as excessive clearance.

I'm assuming this is a broken chain but could be a failed guide that allowed the chain to fall off the crank sprocket, who knows. From what I understand, this is a non interference engine?
 
I'm assuming this is a broken chain but could be a failed guide that allowed the chain to fall off the crank sprocket, who knows. From what I understand, this is a non interference engine?

If it's an interference design, I sure didn't find it while rotating the cams...but I didn't go more than ~15deg in either direction.

Good theory on the cause. Was any internal engine work done while the original owner had it...e.g. head gaskets? That would have had a tech under the timing cover w/ the chains off, might have not torqued the bolts on the driver side chain guiderail. That would leave quite a bit of slack on the tension side.
 
Engine has never been opened in it's life, this will be the right side. He was not very good with oil changes, same as your project. I can tell you when inspecting the tensioner through the inspection port, it's sticky in there. I'll don't think it's sledged up but it's not as clean as it should be. I'll be spending a lot of time cleaning while I have it apart.
 
Started disassembly tonight. Not to bad for about 3.5 hours of work and my first time digging into one of these engines. Heads are coming off tomorrow. Not sure if there is any valve damage, engines are said to be non interference but I have no way to know and I really don't want to pull all this apart again. Never hurts rebuild heads with 250K miles on them anyway.
 

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