2006 4Runner Engine Shutting Off While Driving

Hmm.. that is pretty weird the only thing I noticed is that Bank 1 seems to be a bit cooler catalyst temperature wise at some points in your Excel Sheet... But why I am not entirely sure. Also is it just me, or is your scan tool picking up way too high a charging voltage? It looks like it's hovering around 14.9~15.1v the entire time the vehicle is running? What is the state of charge on your battery?
 
My cousin had a CTS that would randomly shut off as in completely stop running while he was driving it. It was at the dealer under warranty multiple times and they could not find the problem. The final straw was when it died on the Chicago skyway. When it would die he would coast to a stop and it would immediately start. Finally the dealer replaced the ECU and apparently fixed the problem, but not entirely sure as he traded it shortly after that.
 
Mikasa67 said:
OK, got back early yesterday and had some time to work on this.

The remote start and key emulator are completely removed from the system. No change at all other than I can't start it with my fob. LOL It still stumbles and nearly dies.

-The OBDII scan tool is a "ElmScan 5 Compact Multiprotocol ODB Scan Tool". It is connects to the laptop VIA USB connection.

-Software is called "OBDWiz", more information about it here: https://www.scantool.net/obdwiz/. OBDWiz came with the ElmScan device. It is a very basic/entry level tool.

I was able to capture data for about 20 minutes in both RAW/HEX and .CSV values that I converted to a .XLS and formatted so it could be read more easily. The Runner had several occurrences where it stumbled and nearly died within the 20 minute period I was monitoring, but I can't locate anything strange in the data. The first time was within three minutes of connecting and beginning to monitor.


I put the logged data here:
https://drive.google.com/folderview...VRa2MyeXNhYldialQ2WXVhdkZVWmpiN0k&usp=sharing

I'm going to drop the tank tonight to see if the screen is clogged and or how much water is in there..

Thanks again for any help,
Click to expand...

Let us know what the screen looked like, that would still be the first place I would check.
 
Mikasa67 said:
They told me there were no wires cut to install that system, but only tapped in and he highly doubted it could be the problem.
Click to expand...

Cringe...."only tapped" can cause huge problems. Those "taps" can cut half way through the wire and cause intermittent "breaking" or 'grounding'. So even if you 'disconnected' the remote start, you still may have the problems...
 
Finally a code I can read!

BlackWorksInc said:
Hmm.. that is pretty weird the only thing I noticed is that Bank 1 seems to be a bit cooler catalyst temperature wise at some points in your Excel Sheet... But why I am not entirely sure. Also is it just me, or is your scan tool picking up way too high a charging voltage? It looks like it's hovering around 14.9~15.1v the entire time the vehicle is running? What is the state of charge on your battery?
Click to expand...

I hadn't noticed the voltage, it is a little high. The battery is less than a year old, but that don't mean it could not be having an issue. I'll check that this evening.

Life got in the way last night so I didn't get a chance to drop that tank. Hopefully I can get to it before this weekend.

I'm having a bunch of strangeness today, strangeness as in the truck is running perfect! On the way home yesterday it blinked twice in about 20 miles. Then a couple of short trips out later in the evening with no issues at all. This morning same 20 miles back to work not a blink, but it throws an error code just before I hit the interstate. This is the first code that has been committed to memory that I could read. The lights on the dash are, Check Engine and the three lights for the traction control. I pull over and hook up the laptop to read it and find this:

$7EB Power Train
Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit
Code P0335

I cleared the code when I got to work. Noontime drove it out for lunch, about 12 miles round trip and encountered no problems, not a blip in the engine and no more codes.
 
Well, that would be a simple fix if it just a crankshaft position sensor. Might want to swap in a known good one to see if you get any "blips" at all anymore.
 
Probelm Resolved - I Think

bamma said:
Let us know what the screen looked like, that would still be the first place I would check.
Click to expand...

Finally had some time to do this. Dropped the tank, pulled out the pump and all the parts but could not tell much about the filter. It is enclosed in a plastic housing and you can't actually see the filter part. The little pillow looking screen on the bottom of the pump looked okay, blew it out with compressed air on a white towel and noting strange came out. So I don't know, after putting a new filter cartridge in and reassembly it seem to be running normally. Not a single hesitation or blink in two days. I would feel much better if there had been a smoking gun, something I could say was for sure the issue.

There was the mention of checking the battery becasue of what looked like higher than normal voltage. I stopped in a Auto Zone they put a meter on and it tested OK.

I'm going to call it fixed, for now and hopefully this is the end of this story and I can just go out and get this thing muddy without worrying about having to walk home..

Thanks to everyone for the input and help.


~
 
Mikasa67 said:
Finally had some time to do this. Dropped the tank, pulled out the pump and all the parts but could not tell much about the filter. It is enclosed in a plastic housing and you can't actually see the filter part. The little pillow looking screen on the bottom of the pump looked okay, blew it out with compressed air on a white towel and noting strange came out. So I don't know, after putting a new filter cartridge in and reassembly it seem to be running normally. Not a single hesitation or blink in two days. I would feel much better if there had been a smoking gun, something I could say was for sure the issue.

There was the mention of checking the battery becasue of what looked like higher than normal voltage. I stopped in a Auto Zone they put a meter on and it tested OK.

I'm going to call it fixed, for now and hopefully this is the end of this story and I can just go out and get this thing muddy without worrying about having to walk home..

Thanks to everyone for the input and help.


~
Click to expand...

Glad changing the filter seemed to work. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you that it was the culprit.
 
My parents have a 2006 Chrysler 300M with this problem. It only happened when they filled a nearly empty tank full of gas. The problem was a design flaw where gas would enter the evap line and flood/stall the system.

Apparently that was a known issue, but was never categorized as a safety issue and no TSB or Recall. They just quietly extended the warranty of it for life...lol..bastards
 
Nope, NOT Fixed!

Here we go again! So after thinking this thing was done and working fine it started the same issue again. Last night while driving it turned on the check engine light and all the traction control lights again. When I read the codes, at least it is giving codes that can be read now I have:

P0335 - Crankshaft position sensor "A" circuit
P1340 - Manufacturer control ignition system or misfire

Both of these seem to point to the crankshaft position sensor, am I correct?

At this point the 4Runner will not run, so what ever was failing has failed completely. It ran fine while I was reading the codes, turned it off to clear them and it will not start back. It attempts to start, then fails and the codes come back. I'll know more tonight, picked up the crank position sensor on the way to work and will install it later tonight.
 
Smoking Gun!

bamma said:
There is a tsb for the p1340
m.i.l. on dtc p0335 and or p1340 intermittent hot soak no-start
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...9vFKBvXEWxbps4ezA&sig2=nXL4KR2Wm64MBLkPEJTKXQ
Click to expand...


This is VERY good information and exactly what the Runner is doing now. Let me see if I understand this bulletin, it was reported in 2006 and they would make this repair for up to 36 months after the in service date. So if you reported this to them after it was purchased new, lets say sometime prior to a date in 2009 they would fix it. Anytime after the 36 months, later in 2009 it's on your dime?

On Friday evening I changed the Crankshaft position sensor and took it out for a couple of hours, at the first stop where I turned the engine off it would not start back until it cooled off a bit. When it did start back I brought it back home and began to dissemble it to replace the CAM position sensor and found what finally may be the smoking gun I was looking for. Looks like the wire that goes to that sensor got away from the retainer that held it against the timing cover and fell ever so slightly against the serpentine belt. It wore a hole through the rubber and wire shielding, and the red wire. Looked like it was allowing strands of the wire shielding to short with the red wire. In any case, I ordered a new sensor and it should be in tomorrow.

Link to photos of the damaged wire:

Wire 1

Wire 2

Sorry for the crappy iPhone image, didn't realize it was so out of focus..
 
This is good tho, at least you know what was causing the problem. I hate it when machines "fix themselves" it always seems to come back. Hope your hands don't still smell like gas from checking the filter.
 
Mikasa67 said:
This is VERY good information and exactly what the Runner is doing now. Let me see if I understand this bulletin, it was reported in 2006 and they would make this repair for up to 36 months after the in service date. So if you reported this to them after it was purchased new, lets say sometime prior to a date in 2009 they would fix it. Anytime after the 36 months, later in 2009 it's on your dime?

On Friday evening I changed the Crankshaft position sensor and took it out for a couple of hours, at the first stop where I turned the engine off it would not start back until it cooled off a bit. When it did start back I brought it back home and began to dissemble it to replace the CAM position sensor and found what finally may be the smoking gun I was looking for. Looks like the wire that goes to that sensor got away from the retainer that held it against the timing cover and fell ever so slightly against the serpentine belt. It wore a hole through the rubber and wire shielding, and the red wire. Looked like it was allowing strands of the wire shielding to short with the red wire. In any case, I ordered a new sensor and it should be in tomorrow.

Link to photos of the damaged wire:

Wire 1

Wire 2

Sorry for the crappy iPhone image, didn't realize it was so out of focus..
Click to expand...

Hope that fixes the issue. Sounds like it has been a PITA.
 
Update - All is good again!

Looks like it was the cam position sensor or more specifically the cable to the sensor. I changed that out a few days ago and have not had an issue since.

Livin and learnin, thanks again for all the help.
 
Mikasa67 said:
Looks like it was the cam position sensor or more specifically the cable to the sensor. I changed that out a few days ago and have not had an issue since.

Livin and learnin, thanks again for all the help.
Click to expand...

It sucks it took so long to throw the code. Once it threw a code it was much easier to diagnose.
 
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