2006 Drivers Rear Brake Caliber
- Thread starter madeinhb
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AuSeeker
Elite Member
No and yes, if there was rust around the pistons it could of seized it in the caliper when you push it into the caliper, try pressing the brake pedal extremely hard and it may free up with more pressure.
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Well that didn't work. Would anything happen driving it how it is? Would any work at local hardware store? Any videos showing how to replace it?
AuSeeker
Elite Member
It won't hurt anyhting to drive it BUT it will most likely pull hard to the side when braking so be prepared to counter steer if you need to, drive it slowly at first until you get a feel of how it may pull on you.
I doubt you will find a new or rebuild caliper at a hardware store, auto part store would be a good bet on finding one.
Not hard to replace the cailper,you had to remove the center/hydraulic portion of the caliper to replace the pads, so the only thing left to do is remove the outer/pads holder portion of the caliper and then disconnect the brake line, and install the new caliper, and then you will need to bleed that brake line/caliper to get the air out.
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If I remove the brake line how do you stop the brake fluid from leaking out? Do you just clamp the hose?
AuSeeker
Elite Member
You can use a pair of Vise-Grips or possibly your C-clamp to clamp the line BUT don't get carried away and clamp it too tight or you may damage the brake line, keep a small container under the line in case some of the fluid still leaks out, and have some new brake fluid on hand to add back to the master cylinder when you bleed the line, it shouldn't take to much if you don't have any buy the smallest bottle you can find, you need DOT 3 fluid.
Got the new one installed. How long does it take to bleed the line to get the air out? I loosen the bleeder bolt and a little fluid trickles out but the piston doesn't move.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
You don't have to depress the brake pedal as you would to bleed the front brakes when doing the rear bleeding, you have an assist hydraulic pump as part of the master cylinder that gives you the "Power" brakes, if you turn the key to ON/run but don't crank the engine you should hear the pump running, it's should make a bit of a humming sound as it builds up pressure in the braking system, leave the switch on and then go and only open the bleeder valve for 2 to 3 seconds then close the valve and then check your fluid level and then repeat the bleeding process and checking the fluid level until you see only fluid with no air and then close the valve.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
I apologise, you will have to have someone to assist you and silghtly depress the brake pedal to allow the pressure to go to the rear brakes or it will do the same as before and only trinkle out fluid.
What I meant to say in my last post was "you don't have to pump the brake pedal to build up pressure" for the rear brakes.
What I meant to say in my last post was "you don't have to pump the brake pedal to build up pressure" for the rear brakes.
You sir are awesome. I don't care what the ladies say. Saved me a lot of grief. If you lived by me, I'd buy you a beer.
Brakes work great now.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
Glad to help :yo:, just giving back to this forum that has helped me learn more than I ever thought about my T4R :first:, do the same for someone else on the forum if you get the chance, and drink a beer for me after you finish your's!!
