2006 Sr5 V8 Towing w/ Electric Brakes

[robdog09]

Im looking to rent an RV (link) next month. It requires 5800 lbs towing capacity, and it appears by 2006 V8 SR5 will tow the 7000, so good to go.

Question I have is on electric brakes. As you can see from the RV description, it requires electric brakes. Im fairly certain my 4runner doesnt have them, unless its built in and I dont know.

Assuming it doesnt have electric brakes, how difficult is this to install myself?

 

[MikeinNH67]

Do you have the 7 pin circular plug near the hitch? If so it has some of the parts already wired in. Basically takes a brake controller, the plug that plugs in at the passenger left foot well and I think a fuse. Etrailer.com is a good place for info and their prices are good too.

 

[Terminator03]

As Mike mentioned, the electric brakes are on the trailer, and controlled by the 7pin round connector under the bumper, if you have the factory tow package. I had to install a brake controller when I purchased my aluminum car hauler. I have a Tekonsha brake controller, and there is an available harness that plugs directly into a factory plug inside the driver’s side kick panel. Completely plug and play, with the only additional connection, being a ground wire that you just attach to any nearby screw going into the metal under there. Very cool, and once it’s set up, you can slow down and stop the whole rig just using the trailer brakes alone. The Tekonsha has a manual brake lever to test it, or to provide additional braking manually if needed. I’m sure other brands have that as well, but I only have experience with this one.

 

[AuSeeker]

As Mike mentioned, the electric brakes are on the trailer, and controlled by the 7pin round connector under the bumper, if you have the factory tow package. I had to install a brake controller when I purchased my aluminum car hauler. I have a Tekonsha brake controller, and there is an available harness that plugs directly into a factory plug inside the driver’s side kick panel. Completely plug and play, with the only additional connection, being a ground wire that you just attach to any nearby screw going into the metal under there. Very cool, and once it’s set up, you can slow down and stop the whole rig just using the trailer brakes alone. The Tekonsha has a manual brake lever to test it, or to provide additional braking manually if needed. I’m sure other brands have that as well, but I only have experience with this one.

Tekonsha has about 6 different models of brake controllers, which one do you have?

 

[MikeinNH67]

There seems to be lots of options for brake controllers. I have an older Drawtite with the digital display. It has the manual brake function which I sometimes use and I like how you can tell if the brakes are not connected well by what the display shows. My 4runner came with the cable so install was painless.

 

[Terminator03]

Tekonsha has about 6 different models of brake controllers, which one do you have?

Sorry, I couldn’t remember the model when I posted, but this is the one, and this link here also has the correct plug and play harness for the 4Runner, which I ended up buying separately. This is a great deal for the whole plug and play setup.

Attention Required! | Cloudflare

 

[ClimberGuy]

Tekonsha has about 6 different models of brake controllers, which one do you have?

I'm not the original person you were talking to, but a couple years ago I researched and chose the Tekonsha P3 for towing an RV trailer for the first time with my 2004 V8 SR5. It worked well, I've been happy with it. I think it is a 'premium' option, there are cheaper controllers if you don't want to spend that much. I felt spending more was worth it so I wouldn't have to memorize cryptic error codes or look them up - it has a small display. Since you have a V8 you probably have the factory tow package with wiring, as someone else mentioned, and everything is plug and play if you get the vehicle specific harness for the controller.

One tip I learned - mount it to the fuse box cover on the left, and then buy a second fuse box cover to swap in. Makes putting it in and taking it out when not towing easy, with nothing left behind. If you are tall this might not work as well for you, since it can be bumped with a knee easier in that location.

 

[Terminator03]

I'm not the original person you were talking to, but a couple years ago I researched and chose the Tekonsha P3 for towing an RV trailer for the first time with my 2004 V8 SR5. It worked well, I've been happy with it. I think it is a 'premium' option, there are cheaper controllers if you don't want to spend that much. I felt spending more was worth it so I wouldn't have to memorize cryptic error codes or look them up - it has a small display. Since you have a V8 you probably have the factory tow package with wiring, as someone else mentioned, and everything is plug and play if you get the vehicle specific harness for the controller.

One tip I learned - mount it to the fuse box cover on the left, and then buy a second fuse box cover to swap in. Makes putting it in and taking it out when not towing easy, with nothing left behind. If you are tall this might not work as well for you, since it can be bumped with a knee easier in that location.

Yep, as mentioned above, I went with the P3 for pretty much the same reasons you mentioned. I also mounted mine to the fuse box cover, but didn’t buy a spare, even though that was my original plan. Instead, I just leave the controller mount bracket attached, and just unclip the controller and disconnect the harness when I’m not using it. It would look cleaner to swap the whole cover too, but honestly it doesn’t bother me. One thing that does bother me though, is that the weight of the controller sometimes pulls the cover off when I hit big bumps. Last time I towed, I ended up going ghetto and threw a piece of duct tape on the edge that pops open. How do you deal with that?

 

[m85476585]

I use a Tekonsha 90160 Primus IQ brake controller. It's the cheapest decent one in my opinion. I also bought the wiring harness, Tekonsha 3040-P. The V8 should be pre-wired for it if you have the 7 pin trailer connector, you just need the wiring harness that adapts from the Toyota connector under the dash to the brake controller connector.

Make sure to follow the instructions in the manual for the brake controller to calibrate it for the trailer brakes. Basically drive 25mph and manually apply the trailer brakes with the lever on the controller. Reduce the power until just below the point where the trailer wheels lock up. I found I also had to adjust for a little less power on dirt roads.

 

[eric merryfield]

Im looking to rent an RV (link) next month. It requires 5800 lbs towing capacity, and it appears by 2006 V8 SR5 will tow the 7000, so good to go.

Question I have is on electric brakes. As you can see from the RV description, it requires electric brakes. Im fairly certain my 4runner doesnt have them, unless its built in and I dont know.

Assuming it doesnt have electric brakes, how difficult is this to install myself?

Not too tough on a v8 4runner, we can send you pictures, etc if you need.

On my 08 v8, I use a reese brakeman, circa 2008, works fine, its got a quick release plug, so I throw it in the console when not towing I also have P3 for the 05 V8 and the tacoma.

I have towed well over 50,000 miles with the 08, mostly 24 foot car trailers....with mirror extentions, weight distributing bars and sway control, its doable......a 31 foot trailer, well, that might be a tough iffy, not concerned about the 5800 lbs at all its the length, does it come with sway control? I towed once, and only once 10 miles on the freeway and the sway was brutal.

Maybe a travel trailer is different.

Suggestions: Tire plug kit, source of air, and a scangauge. I just towed my race cars 650 miles over the last couple of days, and let me tell you its comforting to see not only the tire pressure, but tire temp, along with TFT temp, etc, so that shimmed URD exhaust pipe ended up taking out the spare, two days ago nice to click on the gauge, and see T1 through T4 good to go, T5(the spare, at 1 pound).

Air up tires to max close to max on sidewall, if you keep it under 2,000 rpm in od, you can get well over 10 mpg....well thats with a 24 foot car trailer, that beast looks pretty tall.

You will feel trucks and cars passing before you see them in your mirrors if the trailer is going to move around.

Eric

 

[m85476585]

I think anything over 5,000 pounds requires a weight distributing hitch on the 4runner. You should ask if the trailer comes with it. If not, your rear suspension is going to be struggling a little. If you are lucky enough to use a weight distributing hitch, they seem to provide some sway control, even though they aren't necessarily intended to.

 

[AuSeeker]

I think anything over 5,000 pounds requires a weight distributing hitch on the 4runner. You should ask if the trailer comes with it. If not, your rear suspension is going to be struggling a little. If you are lucky enough to use a weight distributing hitch, they seem to provide some sway control, even though they aren't necessarily intended to.

At the RV rental website that the OP posted a link too it says the following...

"What's included in our rate? We offer a transparent rate. Our price includes Prep, Propane, Toilet Tissue/Toilet Chemicals as well as Final Cleaning.

Equalizer Hitch with 1000 pound sway bars included at no additional charge."

A "equalizer hitch is the same as a WDH, so he's good to go there and also on the sway control device.

But I agree with [MENTION=125552]eric merryfield[/MENTION] that the overall length @ 38' is more than I would care to deal with towing it with my T4R, IMHO I would rent a Tundra or similar full size truck that is capable of towing the RV easily so I could enjoy the trip instead of being all stressed out each day after towing with a T4R!!

 

[dsieber]

I know this post is a bit old now, but the other thing I’d add to this if someone is thinking about it - they say that the trailer from the OP’s link weighs 5800lbs - but realize that’s the empty weight. Once you add your clothes, food, games, other stuff, etc, you’re easily adding a few hundred pounds on top. Are they including the weight of the pots & pans, options, etc? Are you planning on filling the trailer fresh water tank? That’ll add another couple hundred pounds. You might end up very close to the max tow capacity of your 4Runner.

I own a travel trailer that’s ~26’ long - it’s about as much as I’d want to tow with my 4Runner, and probably larger than what I should, but I’m aware of the limitations. I think something this long is definitely pushing it...