Towing 20ft V-nose Trailer Yes/No?

Beastmobile

New member
So I'm moving from central Florida to Virginia (DC area) and I have some commercial equipment that I want to move myself. I'm thinking about renting a 8.5ft x 20ft V-nose trailer and towing with my 06 4runner V8.

I have the stock WDH on the V8 Limited and had air bags installed back in 2015 when I towed my car with a U-Haul car transport trailer. I had no issues towing that setup as well as towing a 6x12 enclosed U-Haul tailer.

I'm not sure of the weight of the 8.5ft x 20ft trailer (trying to get that info) but I'm assuming it's around 3,000 - 3,500lbs. The total weight of the equipment will be ~3,000lbs

I've never towed anything this long. Would I be fine or is it just a little to big for the rig. If I recall, our weight capacity is 7,300lbs?

I don't have a electric brake controller installed but I'm thinking this is a must. Any recommendations for a plug-n-play setup? Thanks!
 
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The stock receiver for the tow package is a frame hitch, not WDH. A WDH hitch will have spring arms (steel bars) going from the hitch back to brackets on the trailer.

Electric brake controller would help you only if you had electric brakes on the trailer. My experience with U-Haul has been surge brakes. You don't need a controller for those. If you use a trailer with electric brakes you'll need a controller. If you have the tow package then there is a coupler plug tucked into the driver side kick panel. You should be able to just reach into the top of that panel and feel the wires for it. I use a Tekonsha Prodigy P2 controller. Plug 'n Play, simple setup. Again, with surge brakes you don't need anything.

With the V8 and 4X2 your limits are 7300 towing, 730 hitch weight

Airbags will only keep the T4R level, they don't increase towing capacity or hitch capacity. A WDH will shift weight from the rear axle to the front axle and onto the trailer itself. It will also add sway control, necessary for a single axle.

I tow a 6500 lb. 23' Airstream with mine. Double axle almost eliminates sway and the V8 T4Rs do very well towing.

If you've never towed anything that long, but have experience with towing, about 100 miles and you should feel the blood coming back to your fingers. Take your time, watch your overhead, stay in the slow lane at or below the speed limit.
 

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If you have a 4WD the towing weight limit is 7000 LBS, 2WD as mentioned above is 7300 LBS...BUT that's only when using the WDH device mentioned by [MENTION=701042]ArthurKotb[/MENTION] , otherwise without the WDH that weight limit drops drastically, it's not that the V8 can't tow that amount of weight without the WDH, it just can't tow it safely, i.e. swaying, load not balanced well etc.
 
If you have a 4WD the towing weight limit is 7000 LBS, 2WD as mentioned above is 7300 LBS...BUT that's only when using the WDH device mentioned by [MENTION=701042]ArthurKotb[/MENTION] , otherwise without the WDH that weight limit drops drastically, it's not that the V8 can't tow that amount of weight without the WDH, it just can't tow it safely, i.e. swaying, load not balanced well etc.

Sorry on the weights. I have the 4WD so my limits are as you said. I wouldn't even think about towing up to that limit without a WDH. The V8 will struggle going through the mountains. I have been to VA near D.C. and I dropped to 50 and downshifted to 3 a couple times. I've pulled my Airstream to Oregon, North Dakota and down to Texas and Florida. I've pretty much crossed the country. I love my T4R.
 

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Ah I thought Toyota referred to it as the WDH. Seemed to recall that from the last time I was doing research on towing years ago.

So yea I guess I do have the V8 frame hitch. I also have the full time 4x4

I would be renting the trailer (not a U-Haul trailer) and trying to get confirmation if it has electric brakes. If it does, I would purchase a brake controller and the Tekonsha looks like a good option.

I have towed a few times but nothing 20ft long. I've towed a U-Haul 6x12' enclosed trailer from Maryland to Minnesota and from Minnesota to Orlando, FL.

I've also towed my then car using the U-Haul auto transport trailer from Maryland to Orlando, FL. Car weight was ~3,400 lbs plus the weight of the trailer which I believe is a little more than 2,000lbs

This tow would be from Orlando to Virginia (DC area). So flat roads the whole way.


So based on this being a V8 full time 4x4 with the tow package. Is this doable? Do I need to get the WDH addon? If it does have electric brakes, I would get the controller as a well

The stock receiver for the tow package is a frame hitch, not WDH. A WDH hitch will have spring arms (steel bars) going from the hitch back to brackets on the trailer.

Electric brake controller would help you only if you had electric brakes on the trailer. My experience with U-Haul has been surge brakes. You don't need a controller for those. If you use a trailer with electric brakes you'll need a controller. If you have the tow package then there is a coupler plug tucked into the driver side kick panel. You should be able to just reach into the top of that panel and feel the wires for it. I use a Tekonsha Prodigy P2 controller. Plug 'n Play, simple setup. Again, with surge brakes you don't need anything.

With the V8 and 4X2 your limits are 7300 towing, 730 hitch weight

Airbags will only keep the T4R level, they don't increase towing capacity or hitch capacity. A WDH will shift weight from the rear axle to the front axle and onto the trailer itself. It will also add sway control, necessary for a single axle.

I tow a 6500 lb. 23' Airstream with mine. Double axle almost eliminates sway and the V8 T4Rs do very well towing.

If you've never towed anything that long, but have experience with towing, about 100 miles and you should feel the blood coming back to your fingers. Take your time, watch your overhead, stay in the slow lane at or below the speed limit.
 
Just saw the other posts so a WDH would definitely be needed. Do these need to be physically mounted to the trailer? It would be a trailer I'm renting so can't be installing something permanent to it

I may be about to get away with using a 7' x 16ft enclosed.
 
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Just saw the other posts so a WDH would definitely be needed. Do these need to be physically mounted to the trailer? It would be a trailer I'm renting so can't be installing something permanent to it

I may be about to get away with using a 7' x 16ft enclosed.

Since you will be renting the trailer they should also have a WDH to rent you as well, do a little research on WDHs so you know more how they are connected to the vehicle/trailer and how they work, also the WDH has to be setup for your vehicle and the particular trailer and load you're towing, so it would be best to rent it along with the trailer so the company you're renting from can set it up for you.

If you end up buying a WDH have the place you buy it from help with the setup, so rent the trailer load it and then go have them setup the WDH properly.
 
Since you will be renting the trailer they should also have a WDH to rent you as well, do a little research on WDHs so you know more how they are connected to the vehicle/trailer and how they work, also the WDH has to be setup for your vehicle and the particular trailer and load you're towing, so it would be best to rent it along with the trailer so the company you're renting from can set it up for you.

If you end up buying a WDH have the place you buy it from help with the setup, so rent the trailer load it and then go have them setup the WDH properly.

Unfortunately this rental place does not offer a WDH to rent. I'll see if I can find another place that offers it.

I've decided a 7x16 V-nose will fit my stuff so this will be a much smaller trailer
 
Just saw the other posts so a WDH would definitely be needed. Do these need to be physically mounted to the trailer? It would be a trailer I'm renting so can't be installing something permanent to it

There are hitches and receivers.

A bumper hitch is very limited in what it can hold because it's bolted only to the very end of the vehicle, sometimes in the bumper and sheet metal body. It is the hitch and there is no receiver. The ball is bolted into it. All the towed weight is on that ball and there is no sway control. It's limited to 3,500 lbs class II hitch.

A cross member receiver is bolted to the cross member at the back of the vehicle. It is a 2" and can take a hitch of the same size. It's usually limited to 3500 lbs towing (2" receiver class II hitch) but depending on the vehicle rigging, can take a class III hitch, 5000 lbs. These are regardless of the vehicle's capacity. No sway control (Early 2003 T4Rs had this type) All the trailer tongue weight is on the rear of the vehicle.

A frame receiver distributes the weight across the back part of the frame (left and right side frame) and is welded and bolted to the frame. It can take a standard hitch in its 2" receiver but there is no weight distribution to the front axle or trailer and no sway control. This is the receiver standard with the towing package.

A WD hitch fits into the 2" receiver. It distributes the weight to the front axle and the trailer using steel spring arms connected between the hitch and brackets on the trailer A frame. I like to think about it like a wheel barrow. When sitting but loaded with dirt most of the weight is on the runners. Lift the handles and the weight moves to the front wheel and onto the person.

The FT-4WD for your V8 is 7000 towing and 700 hitch. (Hitch is normally 10% of towing.)

I see you're going another way but just to answer your questions.

The WD hitch just goes into the receiver like any other hitch. Mine weighs about 50 lbs. (guessing). The trailer will use brackets on the A-frame, clamped just in front of the trailer body that are easily removed but may require a refitting if they have to be installed again. There are steel bars (spring arms) that connect between the hitch and the brackets on the trailer. (Wheel barrow analogy)

The trailer will have (most likely, especially if it's electric brakes) a round 7-pin umbilical cord that plugs into the 4Runner's connector, under the left side body just in front of the bumper.

A tandem axle trailer would be best. If it's a single axle I wouldn't go over 55, but then I wouldn't tow more than 3500 without a WD Hitch
......
I think all of that is correct. It's late and my eyes are tired. :)
 

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There are hitches and receivers.

A bumper hitch is very limited in what it can hold because it's bolted only to the very end of the vehicle, sometimes in the bumper and sheet metal body. It is the hitch and there is no receiver. The ball is bolted into it. All the towed weight is on that ball and there is no sway control. It's limited to 3,500 lbs class II hitch.

A cross member receiver is bolted to the cross member at the back of the vehicle. It is a 2" and can take a hitch of the same size. It's usually limited to 3500 lbs towing (2" receiver class II hitch) but depending on the vehicle rigging, can take a class III hitch, 5000 lbs. These are regardless of the vehicle's capacity. No sway control (Early 2003 T4Rs had this type) All the trailer tongue weight is on the rear of the vehicle.

A frame receiver distributes the weight across the back part of the frame (left and right side frame) and is welded and bolted to the frame. It can take a standard hitch in its 2" receiver but there is no weight distribution to the front axle or trailer and no sway control. This is the receiver standard with the towing package.

A WD hitch fits into the 2" receiver. It distributes the weight to the front axle and the trailer using steel spring arms connected between the hitch and brackets on the trailer A frame. I like to think about it like a wheel barrow. When sitting but loaded with dirt most of the weight is on the runners. Lift the handles and the weight moves to the front wheel and onto the person.

The FT-4WD for your V8 is 7000 towing and 700 hitch. (Hitch is normally 10% of towing.)

I see you're going another way but just to answer your questions.

The WD hitch just goes into the receiver like any other hitch. Mine weighs about 50 lbs. (guessing). The trailer will use brackets on the A-frame, clamped just in front of the trailer body that are easily removed but may require a refitting if they have to be installed again. There are steel bars (spring arms) that connect between the hitch and the brackets on the trailer. (Wheel barrow analogy)

The trailer will have (most likely, especially if it's electric brakes) a round 7-pin umbilical cord that plugs into the 4Runner's connector, under the left side body just in front of the bumper.

A tandem axle trailer would be best. If it's a single axle I wouldn't go over 55, but then I wouldn't tow more than 3500 without a WD Hitch
......
I think all of that is correct. It's late and my eyes are tired. :)

Hey! Thanks for all the info. The does clear up a bit for me. So I'm going to go with the 7x16 trailer which has electric brakes and has tandem axle.

So I'm going to purchase a electric brake controller. The rental place does not offer weight distriction hitches for rent nor do they install them. So i'm on my own there. I could buy a WDH but I have no experience installing one. I could assemble it but I'm not sure how to set it up. Is this a pretty straight forward setup? If so, I'm looking for the easiest install WDH. I assume I need to make adjustments when there is no load vs when its loaded up. On my way back from Virginia to FL, It will be empty.
 
Hey! Thanks for all the info. The does clear up a bit for me. So I'm going to go with the 7x16 trailer which has electric brakes and has tandem axle.

So I'm going to purchase a electric brake controller. The rental place does not offer weight distriction hitches for rent nor do they install them. So i'm on my own there. I could buy a WDH but I have no experience installing one. I could assemble it but I'm not sure how to set it up. Is this a pretty straight forward setup? If so, I'm looking for the easiest install WDH. I assume I need to make adjustments when there is no load vs when its loaded up. On my way back from Virginia to FL, It will be empty.

Just do a web search for how to setup the WDH, there plenty of How-Tos out there and also YouTube videos as well, do the research before buying one and use the best info you've found when setting it up, also wherever you buy from should also offer instructions on install and setup.
 
Just do a web search for how to setup the WDH, there plenty of How-Tos out there and also YouTube videos as well, do the research before buying one and use the best info you've found when setting it up, also wherever you buy from should also offer instructions on install and setup.

Thanks.. I've been reading and watching youtube videos tonight. Doesn't look to bad and something I can handle.

Now I just need to get a brake controller. I see the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 was mentioned here. I was also looking at the Redrac Tow Pro Liberty. Either one should do I think
 
E-trailer has good information on all towing items plus people you can talk to. Do you happen to have the connector for the electric brake setup built into the vehicle? Mine happened to have it in the glove box and it made connecting the brake controller simple.

e-trailer WDH
 
Hey! Thanks for all the info. The does clear up a bit for me. So I'm going to go with the 7x16 trailer which has electric brakes and has tandem axle.

So I'm going to purchase a electric brake controller. The rental place does not offer weight distriction hitches for rent nor do they install them. So i'm on my own there. I could buy a WDH but I have no experience installing one. I could assemble it but I'm not sure how to set it up. Is this a pretty straight forward setup? If so, I'm looking for the easiest install WDH. I assume I need to make adjustments when there is no load vs when its loaded up. On my way back from Virginia to FL, It will be empty.

I use an Equalizer hitch, a popular brand. If you go to the dealership they should help you get it installed. Ideally, take the trailer with you. Here is their video to give you an idea. They show you all the tools you need but they can probably get it assembled for you. Same goes if you buy another brand. Have them assemble it for you so you don't have to buy all the tools. RV and travel trailer dealerships will be your best bet for the hitch and information.
How to Install an Original Equal-i-zer(R) Sway Control Hitch 4K Model - YouTube
How to Install an Equalizer Hitch - YouTube

The Equalizer WDH is a hitch that goes into the receiver on your T4R. When not in use it's just in the garage somewhere. It goes in like any other smaller hitch and there's a hitch pin/cotter pin that holds it in. Then you back up to the trailer and drop the tongue on the ball and secure it. There are 'L' brackets (because they look like the letter L) that install like a clamp on the trailer, one on each side. You put the spring arms (long, square steel bars) into the hitch and secure with a cotter pin, crank up the trailer tongue, which will raise the back of your T4R too, until you can slide the spring arms (or use the included snap-up lever) onto the L brackets and put the pin in the L bracket to secure it. Then you lower the trailer tongue down and plug in the umbilical cord to the T4R. When you turn the key on you should see a "C" on the Tekonsha, indicating connected and you should be ready to go. The T4R and the top of the travel should be aligned/level.

I'm attaching the owner's manual for mine. Visit a dealership and see what they can do for you.
 
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I imagine any brake controller will work. Modern tech is good. I have a $70 one and it has a few adjustments but they aren't necessary. Find the plug and it just works.
 
I imagine any brake controller will work. Modern tech is good. I have a $70 one and it has a few adjustments but they aren't necessary. Find the plug and it just works.

Exactly. When I got my travel trailer the seller included the WD hitch but not the controller. I just checked the Airstream forum to see what most people used and it was the Tekonsha. Their site showed how easy it was to install so that's how I ended up with it. It's been 9 years now with no problems.
 

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