2006 Wont Start / Problems Accelerating

[hubertron]

I just picked up a 2006 SR5 Auto 4runner last week. It was great but 2 big problems I need your help with.

The first when I am driving and hit a hill, give it gas and the engine shifts down to 4th all the RPMS go up as expected but a second later ALL the power is lost, just like when a cars traction control kicks in and saps your power. Only this was a on straight highway at highway speed. It doesn't do it all the time, but it does it a few times every trip I take. I tried unplugging the battery to reset it, didn't work.

More importantly, I now CANT START THE THING. The starter, and the engine crank but it won't start. Here is a video of the sound:
VIDEO0035.3gp - YouTube

What could it be? Plugs, MAF Sensor, Fuel Pump, Filter?

Truck has 62K on it and good service records.

I would take it back to the dealer I bought it from, but its 150 miles away.

Please help!

 

[zachb_NW]

My guess would be a fuel problem. Pump, filter, etc

 

[hubertron]

The battery contacts look good and its on there tight, could it be that it is getting voltage, but not enough?

 

[DC runner]

1 or 3 possible areas. Fuel, Ignition, Starter

You can check with some cold start spray. You spray it in the air intake. If the truck starts and runs for the 3 seconds it has the spray in there, you know that 1. The battery is charged enough to turn over the truck and 2. The ignition system is good.

Honestly, it could be everything you mentioned or nothing. This iw why you have to start diagnosing. The easiest to eliminate is the fuel system. If the truck starts with Cold Start spray, then you know it is probably Fuel System related.

If it doesn't start with Cold Start, then you can assume, it probably isn't fuel system.. or at least not ONLY fuel system.


Once you determine that, then you can start working down the list. Battery good? Have it checked. Spark plugs fouled? pull and Check. Starter shot? You can tell with sound usually.

Maf? Grab a multimeter and start checking wires. Usually the MAF controls the fuel pump, so a shot MAF will cause it not to start. Had one go out, and I was able to narrow it down using the above testing method. Once I determined it would start with Cold Start, i knew to ignore plugs and battery/starter and focus on the fuel system. Dropped the tank, checked the fuel pump. Spun beautifully. No leaks in Gas Line.. eventually, later in the day I got to the maf with my multimeter. Whammo. Dead. I shorted it out (could do that on the 2nd gen) and grabbed 2 replacements off a pick and pull. 1 was shot, 1 worked..


It might be fuel related. Bad Gas? How long was it setting there? The loss in power may be water in the tank? Bad fuel? Sounds like you had issues driving it home. How long was it setting on the lot???? Try cold spray or pour just a wee bit of good, premium gas, down a couple of spark plug holes... then put the plugs in.



Edit: I don't know crap about computers on these new cars. My method above has worked well on older cars/trucks. You may be able to utilize a multimeter or OBD computer on these new cars. They have all those neato sensors.

 

[DC runner]

The battery contacts look good and its on there tight, could it be that it is getting voltage, but not enough?

Yes. This occurs all the time on a borderline battery. It has charge, just not quite enough. Like trying to jumpstart a large SUV with a small Honda. The Honda doesn't make enough juice to get it just to the point of starting.


Pull your battery and take it to autozone. Have them test it. I listened to your video. That starter sounds fine. Usually when the battery is border line it is sluggish to turn over. So, I would focus on fuel. Pump. Plugs. Buy a 3 buck can of cold start to start with the testing.

 

[hubertron]

I switched the relay with the heater relay in the fuse box (they are the same) and the car has started up fine since. I have a feeling it's a red herring, so I picked up a can of cold start spray for if the problem develops again.