2007 SR5, Chk Eng Lt and codes. Help PLEASE!!!!

[andrewgc]

Hello from North Texas. New member but have been visiting here and quite impressed with the knowledge base.
Bought a 07 SR5 4R Sept 2016, 114,00 miles. All was perfect until one cold December morning (OK, cold for the Dallas area at 28°F), I started the car and the Chk Eng Light CEL, was on AND VSC TRAC and Slip indicator dash lights were on (Still on too). None of those had ever been on before.

Bought a code reader and it had (and still has) the following codes:
P0333 - Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input left bank
C1201 - ABS Brake Boost Sensor Circuit Range/Performance.

I have cleared the codes a few times but they come right back.
Replaced the gas cap with a Genuine Toyota cap.

Have driven the 4R 12,000 miles since this started. Runs great, just cant get it inspected.

Have not taken it in, would like to attempt to fix myself. A good friend is a 30 year tech at a Chevrolet dealership. He looked at is and did some checking and said the HEADS have to be removed to replace the knock sensors. OUCH!
Any input from the pros here would be greatly appreciated.
THANKS!!!!!
Andrew Cooksey

 

[4Reak Show]

If you have the 4.0 V6, yeah heads are supposed to come off. Or maybe just one head. I have seen some guys do the repair without removing the head but it does complicate things. Really shitty design.

The brake booster code is new to me. I have replaced a couple of the master cylinder pumps for similar codes, not that PARTICULAR code however. Worst case, that piece is like $1200 or more.

Looks like you're about to decide what path is the best for investing into this vehicle.

Good luck

 

[cosmos7]

You've been driving around for nine months and haven't done anything about the codes? Got to get that fixed man...

Have you torn down an engine before? If no, take it to a reliable shop and get them to replace the knock sensor... it's not an quick job.

 

[andrewgc]

You've been driving around for nine months and haven't done anything about the codes? Got to get that fixed man...

Have you torn down an engine before? If no, take it to a reliable shop and get them to replace the knock sensor... it's not an quick job.

Yes, I have been driving it almost a year with the codes.
Runs perfect!!!!!!
That's the bummer. Hard time spending $4000 on it when it runs great!

I have installed V8 short blocks in American cars. I own a KTM engine and crankshaft rebuilding company. Have lathe, mill, TIG, etc... so I am pretty handy. Happy to remove the intake manifold... just not crazy about removing the heads, and research shows it takes some special tools.
Thank you for the replies.
Andrew

 

[andrewgc]

Problem solved.
Sold it.
Was upfront with reason to sell. Told him about the CEL and codes.
New owner didn't care.
If I ever get another T4R, I will be back here.
Otherwise, Ya'll take care.
ac

 

[4Reak Show]

Problem solved.

Sold it.

Was upfront with reason to sell. Told him about the CEL and codes.

New owner didn't care.

If I ever get another T4R, I will be back here.

Otherwise, Ya'll take care.

ac

Well that's one way to skin the cat! I think I have an FJ coming in tmrw that needs knock sensors. It'll be my first time and I'm gonna attempt without removing head. If anyone is curious I'll check back in when I'm done. Let you know how possible it is or is not.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Well that's one way to skin the cat! I think I have an FJ coming in tmrw that needs knock sensors. It'll be my first time and I'm gonna attempt without removing head. If anyone is curious I'll check back in when I'm done. Let you know how possible it is or is not.

If it's a 2010+ You can actually just about remove the whole coolant crossover tube out of the valley without pulling the cylinderhead. But it's a *****, if it's an older non-Dual VVTi 1GR-FE you probably can't get the tube out of the valley, but you can move it around enough to get the sensors off, again a *****.

Basically pull the intake plenum off until you've exposed the coolant crossover tube, pull the front water inlet assembly (has the thermostat in it if I remember) then you'll need to undo the coolant cross over tube from the back of the engine and don't forget the one nut way at the bottom (you'll know it when you get there). Also using some long pliers, a screwdriver, and a lot of patience it helps if you un-clip the knock sensor harness from the coolant cross over tube to give you more wiggle room.

Best of luck, it's better than pulling a cylinderhead, but it's by no means easy or for those lacking patience.

 

[4Reak Show]

Hahahaha thanks. I had eyed it out when it came in a few weeks ago. Looked far from pleasant. I'll be sure Redbull up prior.
Appreciate it

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Hahahaha thanks. I had eyed it out when it came in a few weeks ago. Looked far from pleasant. I'll be sure Redbull up prior.
Appreciate it

Yeah, no problem. IF you really wanna be industrious, I'm sure some members wouldn't mind at least some pictures/cursory write-up to get an idea of how the "Shortcut" would work for this.

I've mostly been doing knock sensor harnesses on these 4.0L's the rodents love to go after Bank 2 right at the connector. Thankfully it's a sub-harness so it's not too bad to replace vs. say the whole engine harness.

 

[4Reak Show]

Started it. Tear down wasn't bad
I might do a full write up when I have time. Still in the middle of the job.

Short version:

Plenum off with a handful of bolts and hoses.

Intake manifold is easy. Couple fuel hoses and 12mm bolts. Plus all electrical but it folds out of the way

Fan off, front thermostat housing off with 5 bolts and few hoses.

I opted to remove rear crossover including disconnecting heater hoses.

Metal pipe is free, but like you said, non removable. Lame. But enough room to work around.

Well back to it.

 

[4Reak Show]

Maneuvered pipe and using box end 12mm wrench knock sensors came right out. Probably gonna install harness onto new sensors and fish them thru the back so I have wires to hold onto. We shall see! So far, not too bad really. Waaaaaay better than head removal. F*ck all that

 

[4Reak Show]

Total time about 4 1/2 hours. Sweated a lot tho. Overall, pretty straightforward with a couple hairy instances. I'll do a full right up one day for you 4th genners. Here's some pics to tie you over

 

[mb66]

I wanted to chime in and add my observations here, as I tackled this job over the weekend on our '06 with 155K miles. First, thanks to 4Reak Show for breaking this down to a series of not-so-intimidating steps, for which otherwise, I likely wouldn't have attempted.
This began last year with the check engine/VSC light combination. Code was P0328. Clearing the code would keep it away for a few weeks but lately it became chronic. I'd been researching this for a while and decided to do the deed. I would replace both sensors and the wiring harness. I'd also replace the original water pump, thermostat, and serpentine belt while I was in that deep.

Parts:
(2) Denso 89615-20090 knock sensors $11 each on ebay
Toyota 822190C010 harness $16 on ebay
Toyota 16031-0P010 thermostat assembly $38 Amazon
Aisin WPT-802 water pump (OEM with Toyota filed off) $78 Amazon
Fel-Pro MS96671 manifold gasket set $29 Amazon
Bando 7PK2120 serpentine belt $18 Amazon
(2) Zerex Asian coolant $14 each Amazon

I don't think I could have done this without a new harness, as it has three hold downs, two of which are on the dreaded pipe. They'll get destroyed getting the bad sensor(s) out, and the holes where they attach must be cleared. I spent hours on that alone. The new harness has the hold downs already in place.
The coolant pipe must definitely be free, so while it's still bolted down, remove the crossover at the rear as stated before. If doing again, which I won't, I would have had a new o-ring for that pipe. Note that the pipe is screwed down in three places. Pulling out the old, fishing in the new, and bolting them place is simply an exercise in persistence and 'where there's a will, there's a way'. You have to get creative with tools and finger placement. Some curved fishing pliers were critical for me. I didn't remove the fan until the end, when I replaced the water pump. May not need that step for the knock sensors.

I totally empathize with 4Reak's "couple hairy instances" remark. Several times when tearing down and removing stuff, I wondered about ever getting this all back together. Getting the sensors out, and everything that involved, turned out to be the hard part. Reassembly went easier, other than getting the sensor bolts started.
This was a doozie, and I spent around 16 hours over two days on all this, including cleaning out the manifold and throttle body. I can see where removing the heads would be quicker for a mechanic. I'm sore, and my hands, knuckles, and fingers are raw. Drove to work today and no CEL, so worth it.

One of the old sensors was indeed bad. Checking resistance, it would sometimes register the proper 200ish kohms, then start showing in the Mohms.

Thanks again to those who post how-to's in these forums.

 

[4Reak Show]

Man I wrote that stuff 2 years ago! Glad it helped someone out. That's why I try and document weird stuff like this. I would still take 16 hrs with messing with the head. Doing a head means timing cover which likely means oil pan, which may mean front diff. It starts excalating quickly.

Another idea is to tie a zip tie snugly around the base of the sensor or connector and then have the tail of the zip tie dangling upwards for you to hang onto and wiggle sensor into place. I literally just thought of that right now as I'm typing.

Anyway, I have only done this job the one time so maybe I'll try some other tricks if I unfortunately have to do it again someday.