2007 V6 4wd SR5 with 255k miles dealer inspection report

[rwh963]

just had the front drive axles replaced, plus an alignment. the multi-point inspection turned up several suggestions.

1) one license plate bulb burned out. I took a look, and on both sides the screws holding the plastic access covers on are total rust melted. i would have to drill the heads off to replace the bulb. any recommendations on remounting the cover? Maybe just drill out the shafts and put in self-tapping screws? Also, are there any recommended long life LED bulbs for this application? Any harm in leaving the plastic covers off all the time?

2) Right strut leaking some. They recommended replacing both full assemblies. Estimated total of $1230. Gotta be a more economical way. Does it require significant disassembly? The vehicle is riding on its original suspension. Looks like about $175 each with maybe additional parts. Just a moment...

3). Transfer case output seal seeping. Estimated part and labor $282

4). ABS sensor/Brake booster: this is an older known problem. need to replace either/or. the booster comes with the sensor. used units go for about $400. new, about $1200.

5). wiper blades, air filters: i can do those myself!

6). Rear hatch actuator: also a known issue. it makes a sound, but the door won't release. fortunately, the rear window works. gonna have to dismantle the interior of the hatch and manually open the hatch. probably gonna need a new actuator.

in some ways, not bad for a 20 year old new england 4runner. 4wd hi/lo function well!

i like the 4th gen runners best for styling, inside and out. if i could locate a cream puff, i would consider purchasing it. don't care for the 5th gen, too chunky looking.

 

[Buckaroo]

When I saw the title of your post, I though to myself that this was going to be a long, expensive list with lots of unnecessary items. IMO, the shop didn't appear to go overboard which is pleasantly surprising.

 

[SocalSam]

In order:

1. You will figure that out.
2. Suspension work is moderately difficult but DIY-able. YT has plenty of tutorials. I've done struts on a couple of Fords. While not fun, it was doable. At 255k and 18 years, I would suspect ball joints and control arm bushings before struts if you are getting vibration at speed.
3. Have not looked into this as mine is 2wd.
4. Hydroboost. Also DIY-able. I've done this job twice and have posted my experiences here. Both times master cylinder was good so I replaced pump/accumulator assembly with junkyard part for $50. Bleed is relatively simple and can be done from the top.
5. Wiper blades. Recommended 22/20 inches. I have 22/22 for better coverage. I like Bosch Icon.
6. If rear latch motor cycles but does not release, try removing catch loop and reverse install to present clean side to the latch mech. Lube match mech. See what you get. Replacement latch mech is not too costly and is an easy job.

 

[sundance21]

just had the front drive axles replaced, plus an alignment. the multi-point inspection turned up several suggestions.

1) one license plate bulb burned out. I took a look, and on both sides the screws holding the plastic access covers on are total rust melted. i would have to drill the heads off to replace the bulb. any recommendations on remounting the cover? Maybe just drill out the shafts and put in self-tapping screws? Also, are there any recommended long life LED bulbs for this application? Any harm in leaving the plastic covers off all the time?

2) Right strut leaking some. They recommended replacing both full assemblies. Estimated total of $1230. Gotta be a more economical way. Does it require significant disassembly? The vehicle is riding on its original suspension. Looks like about $175 each with maybe additional parts. Just a moment...

3). Transfer case output seal seeping. Estimated part and labor $282

4). ABS sensor/Brake booster: this is an older known problem. need to replace either/or. the booster comes with the sensor. used units go for about $400. new, about $1200.

5). wiper blades, air filters: i can do those myself!

6). Rear hatch actuator: also a known issue. it makes a sound, but the door won't release. fortunately, the rear window works. gonna have to dismantle the interior of the hatch and manually open the hatch. probably gonna need a new actuator.

in some ways, not bad for a 20 year old new england 4runner. 4wd hi/lo function well!

i like the 4th gen runners best for styling, inside and out. if i could locate a cream puff, i would consider purchasing it. don't care for the 5th gen, too chunky looking.

I have two 05 4runners. One from Virginia and one originally from Missouri.

1. You can buy the entire led replacement that includes the lens/cover that just "plugs" into the original bulb socket. Screws are always rusted. The screws will come out easy. Just replace.

2. If the model is a limited, which is sounds like it isn't, then you have XREAS. Given you probably don't. That isn't too much if you're not doing it yourself. You'll need an alignment and if the alignment cams are rusted to the point of not being able to be adjusted (probably are if your license plate screws are rusted to the point they're melted.) You're not going to be happy with that bill

3. Output is a common issue. It is probably worse on the limited with full time 4wd. Easy fix.

4. If you're not throwing codes. Leave it alone. Replace brake fluid. Old brake fluid is what ruins ABS and calipers. The internals all rust from moister in the fluid. 20 year old fluid is very bad. If you have codes, and you're running LEDS anywhere, the codes maybe coming from the LED lights themselves. Ask me how I know.....

Use large Ferrite Rings right on the electrical lines at the bulbs. (if you can. you can if you're doing headlights or fog light LEDS). You can get noises from turn signals leds that will throw ABS codes from the noise. Don't change turn signal, running, or parking lights to LED. Not worth it. I have LEDS on everything else.

5. Yep

6. Not too difficult. I've had them open several times to run backup cameras and fix various things. Be patient. You might need to pop off the molding holding the logo/name. Be careful here. Take your time. Make sure you loosen all the nuts.

Having said all that, they are worth fixing.

All mine are V8s. The V6 is okay 06 and forward. I wouldn't buy a V-6 from 03-05 but that is because they are sometimes known to blow headgaskets after 200,000. The V-8 can run for 500,000 plus. The biggest issue in the V-8 is exhaust manifolds and after 20 years..... they are all getting close to having to be replaced. Cats and all. I can see them in my future. Especially on a rusted vehicle from the various "rust belts" of the country.

Anyways. My penny. Don't let me discourage you. Compared against the current used and new 4runners. They are worth repairing.

One last warning. Paint will be an issue for you in a couple of year if it currently isn't. You're plastic parts will start fading first. If it has stayed outside all its life, the clear coat will start coming loose.

 

[rwh963]

thx for the replies.

1) Shocks: this is a SR5, so no XREAS. Regular shocks. No vibration driving.
2) Brake booster: the brake booster is fine (and fluid clear). The issue is the ABS sensor. I have to unplug it to get my brake lights working normal. I have to do that for inspection. Various dash lights are thrown plugged or unplugged.
Unplugged, my speedometer/odometer does not function. used complete boosters sell for about $500. New ones are about $1200.
3) Rear hatch: need to open it manually. Gonna start a help thread on that separately.

 

[SocalSam]

thx for the replies.

1) Shocks: this is a SR5, so no XREAS. Regular shocks. No vibration driving.
2) Brake booster: the brake booster is fine (and fluid clear). The issue is the ABS sensor. I have to unplug it to get my brake lights working normal. I have to do that for inspection. Various dash lights are thrown plugged or unplugged.
Unplugged, my speedometer/odometer does not function. used complete boosters sell for about $500. New ones are about $1200.
3) Rear hatch: need to open it manually. Gonna start a help thread on that separately.

Does ABS/TCS work?

If ride and handling are acceptable and front tires are wearing normally, I would leave shocks alone. This being said, inspect them for leaks.

 

[sundance21]

thx for the replies.

1) Shocks: this is a SR5, so no XREAS. Regular shocks. No vibration driving.
2) Brake booster: the brake booster is fine (and fluid clear). The issue is the ABS sensor. I have to unplug it to get my brake lights working normal. I have to do that for inspection. Various dash lights are thrown plugged or unplugged.
Unplugged, my speedometer/odometer does not function. used complete boosters sell for about $500. New ones are about $1200.
3) Rear hatch: need to open it manually. Gonna start a help thread on that separately.

Only thing I'll add is that brake fluid can be clear and have way too much water in it. Not saying you have that issue. The only way to know for sure is the use the strips to test it. I've never gone through the effort to buy them. Just replaced the fluid. You can't see the rust (dirty fluid) in the calipers without bleeding at the caliper. That is usually where the problems starts. The re is a motor on the ABS that usually rusts that throws codes that shops often us to replace everything. You can buy that motor from time to time but is a job to just replace it. More people are making the that motor now than there was just a few years ago. I'm a 4runner fan of the 4th generation V-8. I'd buy another one tomorrow if I needed another vehicle. Even the rusted ones are usually not too rusted to not clean up but have to be careful with frame rot. The only way to really tell if you have it is to get underneath with a hammer and start bumping rusted looking areas with a hammer. Water and salt get into the reinforced areas around the cats, transmission and rear control arm mounts.

I'm rambling. Thanks

 

[rwh963]

Only thing I'll add is that brake fluid can be clear and have way too much water in it. Not saying you have that issue. The only way to know for sure is the use the strips to test it. I've never gone through the effort to buy them. Just replaced the fluid. You can't see the rust (dirty fluid) in the calipers without bleeding at the caliper. That is usually where the problems starts. The re is a motor on the ABS that usually rusts that throws codes that shops often us to replace everything. You can buy that motor from time to time but is a job to just replace it. More people are making the that motor now than there was just a few years ago. I'm a 4runner fan of the 4th generation V-8. I'd buy another one tomorrow if I needed another vehicle. Even the rusted ones are usually not too rusted to not clean up but have to be careful with frame rot. The only way to really tell if you have it is to get underneath with a hammer and start bumping rusted looking areas with a hammer. Water and salt get into the reinforced areas around the cats, transmission and rear control arm mounts.



I'm rambling. Thanks

I spent money and time at the dealer trying to figure out the brake light always on issue. final diagnosis is ABS sensor. when i unplug it from the booster, brake lights function normally. The plastic cover to the sensor module somehow has a crack in it, like someone had put a pry bar to it. that may be the reason for the failure.

All brake work done at garages, and include fluid flush. last @236k 12/2022.
the fluid is good, no issues braking.

in warm weather i spray out the underside, do paint touch up, loose rust brushing, etc.

the 4th gen is my favorite of the 4th-6th gens for styling. i like the dash layout, it is not chunky, more car-like.

 

[MikeinNH67]

1) I forced my covers off to replace the bulbs, maybe used diagonal cutters to split the plastic then vice-grips to remove the screws. I think it's now held in place with zip-ties, been like that for awhile.

2) I went with used Gen5 strut assemblies that were 6 months old, got them on Ebay. Slight grinding on the bottom mounting point but the truck rode like new after that. Cost me maybe $100 to buy them.

3). Seems reasonable

4). A bi-direction scanner should be able to show if the sensors are working by watching each one while driving. I bought a Foxwell scanner to figure out which one of mine was bad. Cheap Amazon sensor is still working after a couple years.

5).

6). I replied in the other thread you created.