I am interested in starting to change my own oil etc. So with that said i want to make some changes and be sure im on the right track.
I see that there is a hole in the factory skid plate. Is that silver bolt head i see there the oil drain plug? If not where is it? I keep reading about an access panel but i just see an opening (thats what i took the picture below through). Either im missing a part or in 2007 they did away with that panel. I want to install the fumoto valve to make the changes easier in the future. From what i see i guess the F-103 12mm-1.25 is the one i need. Is that correct? Have yall used the one with the nipple or just the plain one?
Also i was looking into relocating the oil filter as ive seen on here in a few threads. Where all have yall mounted the relocated filter? I was thinking around the spots i have marked on the picture below. I will try to get a better angle but my goal would be easy access from the underside. Mounting points may be an issue though. Anyone know where the airbag sensors are lol? I think i want to mount it in a vertical position unless there is some reason not to. Ive also read about the Amsol one being the best but i cant pull that one off. The permacool also seems to have issues ive read. Is there anything in particular i should look for on them if i just order from summit or jegs. I know they have some universal ones that may work. I really like the stainless lines and if i can keep the length to 12" i can get premade ones if i feel the need to uprade.
I know its not something you do often but i found this GREAT explination on the trans fluid. Anyone know how applicable this is to the 2007 V8 4x4? Where do you get extra crush washers? I know when i use them on guns once i use it i lose it as far as reusing it goes. Man say that three times fast.
"KB084RUNNER
Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by ympunicos
I learned a lesson yesterday that cost me $120. In changing the oil on my 2008 4runner (for the first time, previously done by dealer) I mistakenly unscrewed the transmission drip pan instead of the oil drip pan. When I saw the bright red liquid coming down I quickly screwed it back... probably lost 1/4 of a quart of trans fluid. Anyway, through reading on this site I figured out there is no transmission dip stick or fill place... I had to go to the dealer to have fluid added back... several hour process in that they need to get temp of fluid just right and fill it from below the chassis.... that is where the $120 came in. I figure that is probably the most expensive oil change I've ever made. I thought I share the info... with hope of helping someone else.
The trans fill plug is on the passenger side of the transmission about 4/5 of the way back on the trans with WS stamped on the plug. A 15/16 socket will remove it. It should have a rubber gasket so no crush washer is needed to fill. But a crush washer is needed on the drain plug and fluid level check plug. The trans drain plug is the one furthest to the rear on the trans pan and takes a normal wrench. The fluid level check plug is about 1/2 way back and takes a 5 MM allen wrench.
To change the trans oil (vehicle cold and on level surface with no ramps or jacks) remove the pan drain plug and measure the fluid that comes out. reinstall the rain plug with a new crush washer and tighten. Refill through the fill plug with exact amount drained plus 1/2 quart. Replace fill plug and tighten.
To check trans fluid level: Loosen fluid check plug (5mm) but do not let fluid out. have crush washer handy. Start vehicle. Cycle shifter through PRND4321 twice and leave running in Park. Using a IR thermometer take temp readings on trans pan every minute until pan reaches 114 degrees F. The best readings are in the recesses where the pan bolts go and make sure the pan is clean (no dirt) to get an accurate reading. When at 114F with vehicle running remove fluid level check plug and allow excess fluid to run out until it is at a trickle ( 30 seconds). During this 30 seconds put new crush washer on plug. When at a trickle reinstall fluid level check plug and tighten. You are done.
Drive vehicle 2-3 miles and check for leaks.
Note: Use WS fluid if your manual calls for it. If the fill bolt has WS on it you need WS."
I see that there is a hole in the factory skid plate. Is that silver bolt head i see there the oil drain plug? If not where is it? I keep reading about an access panel but i just see an opening (thats what i took the picture below through). Either im missing a part or in 2007 they did away with that panel. I want to install the fumoto valve to make the changes easier in the future. From what i see i guess the F-103 12mm-1.25 is the one i need. Is that correct? Have yall used the one with the nipple or just the plain one?
Also i was looking into relocating the oil filter as ive seen on here in a few threads. Where all have yall mounted the relocated filter? I was thinking around the spots i have marked on the picture below. I will try to get a better angle but my goal would be easy access from the underside. Mounting points may be an issue though. Anyone know where the airbag sensors are lol? I think i want to mount it in a vertical position unless there is some reason not to. Ive also read about the Amsol one being the best but i cant pull that one off. The permacool also seems to have issues ive read. Is there anything in particular i should look for on them if i just order from summit or jegs. I know they have some universal ones that may work. I really like the stainless lines and if i can keep the length to 12" i can get premade ones if i feel the need to uprade.
I know its not something you do often but i found this GREAT explination on the trans fluid. Anyone know how applicable this is to the 2007 V8 4x4? Where do you get extra crush washers? I know when i use them on guns once i use it i lose it as far as reusing it goes. Man say that three times fast.
"KB084RUNNER
Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by ympunicos
I learned a lesson yesterday that cost me $120. In changing the oil on my 2008 4runner (for the first time, previously done by dealer) I mistakenly unscrewed the transmission drip pan instead of the oil drip pan. When I saw the bright red liquid coming down I quickly screwed it back... probably lost 1/4 of a quart of trans fluid. Anyway, through reading on this site I figured out there is no transmission dip stick or fill place... I had to go to the dealer to have fluid added back... several hour process in that they need to get temp of fluid just right and fill it from below the chassis.... that is where the $120 came in. I figure that is probably the most expensive oil change I've ever made. I thought I share the info... with hope of helping someone else.
The trans fill plug is on the passenger side of the transmission about 4/5 of the way back on the trans with WS stamped on the plug. A 15/16 socket will remove it. It should have a rubber gasket so no crush washer is needed to fill. But a crush washer is needed on the drain plug and fluid level check plug. The trans drain plug is the one furthest to the rear on the trans pan and takes a normal wrench. The fluid level check plug is about 1/2 way back and takes a 5 MM allen wrench.
To change the trans oil (vehicle cold and on level surface with no ramps or jacks) remove the pan drain plug and measure the fluid that comes out. reinstall the rain plug with a new crush washer and tighten. Refill through the fill plug with exact amount drained plus 1/2 quart. Replace fill plug and tighten.
To check trans fluid level: Loosen fluid check plug (5mm) but do not let fluid out. have crush washer handy. Start vehicle. Cycle shifter through PRND4321 twice and leave running in Park. Using a IR thermometer take temp readings on trans pan every minute until pan reaches 114 degrees F. The best readings are in the recesses where the pan bolts go and make sure the pan is clean (no dirt) to get an accurate reading. When at 114F with vehicle running remove fluid level check plug and allow excess fluid to run out until it is at a trickle ( 30 seconds). During this 30 seconds put new crush washer on plug. When at a trickle reinstall fluid level check plug and tighten. You are done.
Drive vehicle 2-3 miles and check for leaks.
Note: Use WS fluid if your manual calls for it. If the fill bolt has WS on it you need WS."
