2010 Replace Alternator

[Aubrey71]

My alternator has finally died, in my 240K+ mile 2010 Trail Edition. I picked up a replacement and everything seemed to be going just fine (a little tight but still moving along). I go to remove the exhaust manifold heat insulator, and can get the forward two bolts, however I can only barely get a wrench or socked on the back bolt, and there are so many tubes and wires, that I'm afraid I may break, tear or bend one, so decided to leave that one be. The shield is loose so it moves around.

Now, the problem. There is supposed to be a bold and generator braket at the bottom back side of the alternator. I can NOT for the life of me, see or touch it. It is simply too tight. I've tried going searching through the drivers side fender well and it appears to be located directly behind the shock or coil bucket where it can't be seen.

Does anyone have a video, or pictures on how this can be done? I need a visual here to figure this thing out.

Thanks


P.S.
I've tried searching the forums, and the search feature here isn't all that great. I used the terms 'alternator removal' and 'alternator replace' and hundreds of posts pull back and I haven't noticed one yet, that pertains to a typical replacement of the alternator.

This seems like something that would be becoming more and more common as the older 5th gens are getting more and more miles on them.

Oh, this is the first thing that I've had to replace on this monster, so I'm very happy and impressed.

 

[philsey]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...ed-help-searching-start-here.html#post2162318

Section 2

 

[Aubrey71]

Way past that. I probably spent at least an hour or two doing recon work via google before I ever moved forward with this. Trying to determine what little snags I could or would possibly run into before attempting this task.

After google brought back basically nothing specific to the 5th gens and even more specifically that small bracket on the back side bottom of the alternator, I came here.

Anyone have an suggestions on the actual issue at hand?

Thanks for any info you might offer.

Also, I did notice this thread, but was really confused as to why it's in the Maintenance/Detailing section
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/maintenance-detailing/239500-5th-gen-alternator-replacement.html

 

[tristero]

I'd check out this thread

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/172070-4runner-alternator-upgrade-gen-5-a.html

 

[Ramrod88]

I know it’s an off topic question and im not helping any but.... being you have 240k on your 5th gen, have you had any other problems other than normal wear n tear?


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[Aubrey71]

Absolutely none what-so-ever. I'm on my 3rd set of tires, running Michelins' LTX AT's now. Started with Toyo, got about 110K, then switched to BF Goodrich Rugged Terrains, got about 100K, and then went to Michelin. I chose the last due to all the highway driving I'm doing back and forth from Central Texas to Colorado during the snow months. The tires are much quieter, and handle the snow really well.

I changed the brakes and went with the vented PowerStop rotor/pad setup (again due to the mountain driving).

I actually just changed the plugs for the first time at 225K miles, only because I felt bad about going that long. The thing still ran perfectly, I just felt like doing it.

This thing has been a dream. I went from an FJ Cruiser, to this 4Runner and couldn't be happier.

Now, if I could just get this alternator changed out.......

 

[Antman]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/226293-how-hell-do-i-get-fuse-out.html#post2487130

Check out this post from when I replaced mine. It shows the bracket and location. Wear gloves! When I torqued on the bolt my universal joints flexed and smashed my knuckles all to piss.

 

[Aubrey71]

Thank you Antman.

That was EXACTLY what I needed.

It was really difficult to see what I was supposed to be grabbing onto (partially blind in my right eye now). A real PITA.

I was able to get it with this setup once I was able to figure out what I was needing to take loose (thanks to your helpful information).
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yjb95zg70noy2au/2018-03-08%2018.09.39.jpg?dl=0

Now, to get it back together......... (I'm really dreading getting that bracket bolt back in)

 

[Antman]

Thank you Antman.

That was EXACTLY what I needed.

It was really difficult to see what I was supposed to be grabbing onto (partially blind in my right eye now). A real PITA.

I was able to get it with this setup once I was able to figure out what I was needing to take loose (thanks to your helpful information).
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yjb95zg70noy2au/2018-03-08%2018.09.39.jpg?dl=0

Now, to get it back together......... (I'm really dreading getting that bracket bolt back in)

Getting it back in is easy. Make sure the bracket is lined up correctly and no problemo!

 

[Aubrey71]

You were spot on. Put it back in, bracket didn't line up, so instead of playing around I pulled it back out and clocked the bracket back up a bit, wedged it back in, and tada. All 3 bolts went in easy - peasy.

Screw it, the rest can go back together tomorrow. I'm ordering pizza and having a beer.

Again, thank you for pointing me in the proper direction.

I'll probably regret going with a remanufactured unit, but I don't have any extra accessories installed and it was going to be next week before I could get a new unit in from Toyota (plus more than twice the cost).

I may end up keeping this core and trying to find a place to rebuild it for me (for a spare).

Who knows, I might get lucky and this replacement might last me another 250K.

 

[rigtec]

"...I go to remove the exhaust manifold heat insulator, and can get the forward two bolts, however I can only barely get a wrench or socked on the back bolt, and there are so many tubes and wires, that I'm afraid I may break, tear or bend one, so decided to leave that one be. The shield is loose so it moves around.

Now, the problem. There is supposed to be a bold and generator braket at the bottom back side of the alternator. I can NOT for the life of me, see or touch it. It is simply too tight..."

Hi Aubrey71,

Quite a few of us here on this forum have upgraded the factory 130A alternator for the "DC Power engineering 270-XP" 270A aftermarket unit. When mine was done there were 2 bolts up top (on the ears), and one single bolt down below that must be removed to get the alternator out, but that's it. The new 270-XP doesn't have a bracket to support that third bolt in the exhaust shield, so that one isn't needed.

Now I had mine done in a shop because when my alternator arrived, there was 25 to 30 inches of snow on the ground so I took it in to have my mechanic install it, but I watched him remove it. But [MENTION=55815]Okki[/MENTION] (Paul) did his own work and a few other members here on forum. Maybe Okki will chime in here and shed some of his tech experience on this subject... he's really that good with working around this stuff! 'Best to you',

rig

 

[rigtec]

...Sorry Jeff ( [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION]),

I neglected to see your post before I posted... very good advice! 'Best'

rig

 

[Diver Deuce]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/226293-how-hell-do-i-get-fuse-out.html#post2487130

Check out this post from when I replaced mine. It shows the bracket and location. Wear gloves! When I torqued on the bolt my universal joints flexed and smashed my knuckles all to piss.

Ah sweet sweet memories.

 

[Antman]

Ah sweet sweet memories.

Not so sweet for my hand lol

 

[nglayton]

I did a small write up when I installed my new alternator.

With about a 3 foot extension and a wobbly socket you can easily get that bolt out through the wheel well. Knowing it's there to begin with and exactly where it's at is the hard part.

 

[Okki]

Wish I could help out here, but on the alternator I made it a checkbook function to a local shop because I was crunched on time. 20/20 hindsight I would have done it myself (long story) and sacrificed some knuckle skin.

As others have mentioned, it's not the most complicated job, but tight confines do mean you'll probably lose some skin in the process.

Thanks and have a great day!
Okki

 

[Friedom]

I'd like to chime in here and add another answer to a question that's already been asked.
I'm going through this right now, just finally got the original alternator out(dead as a doorknob. I could go about 18 miles on a battery that had been on the charger all day before the instrument panel, radio, and eventually truck would shut off because they were running exclusively on the brand new battery. I digress)
I could not find any way to get to the bracket bolt through the fender well. I DID find out how to strip it reaching down between the fender well and the engine with a 3/8 ratchet and about 6" of extensions making sure that I wasn't square to the bolt when putting an uncofortable amount of pressure on it.
That process was getting me nowhere, and I had no success finding a relevant section of Okki's thread(very likely user error) to help, but after some time I made a discovery:

* I studied the replacement alternator to understand where the bolt is on the back of it.
* After removing the belt and idler pulley #2, I was able to reach my left hand under the alternator and feel the location of that bolt(awkward, but doable)
* With the exhaust manifold shield removed, there's actually a fairly large space underneath the exhaust manifold. Enough for A 3/8 ratchet, 3" extension and 12mm socket - in hand - to all be maneuvered into position under there with my right hand. Working totally blind, but using left hand to guide socket onto bolt and right hand under the exhaust manifold there was sufficient room to connect to it directly and loosen it.
Once it's broken loose, don't expect to be able to turn it out by hand. I ended up doing the 1 click ratchet dance for awhile, but actually it came out, and I didn't need to remove the mounting bracket at all, so I'm rather certain it'll be in the correct position for reinstallation.

Unfortunately the 4 pin connector on the driver's side of the alternator snagged on the way out and pulled out all four wires from the connector, so I'm on a quest to figure out what order to fix them back in place, but I feel much better about doing this job in reverse and hope that my long drawn out experience could lend some relief to someone else. Bottom line is that you can't see the bolt on the back of the alternator, but you don't need to if you know where it is as there is operating room under the exhaust manifold!

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