2014+ T4R Tri-LED Projector / Sequential Headlights

Did any of you have trouble with the fuse link? I plugged it into the correct slot and my DRL does not turn on when the stalk is set to DRL. Parking light setting and onward function as they should?

I think the DRL strip should be super bright when set to DRL and then dims when the stalk is set to parking lights and onward. Am I correct?
 
Did any of you have trouble with the fuse link? I plugged it into the correct slot and my DRL does not turn on when the stalk is set to DRL. Parking light setting and onward function as they should?

I think the DRL strip should be super bright when set to DRL and then dims when the stalk is set to parking lights and onward. Am I correct?

By any chance is your e-brake on when you are doing your testing?
 
Alrighty, review time. I was able to get one of the returned sets, out of two returned sets at the time.

Pros: Great cutoff, nice color, nice light distribution in front of the vehicle, the DRL looks great, and the sequential turns are surprisingly great. The finish is indeed OEM quality in my opinion.

Cons: That side cutoff is real and strange. Not an issue for highway driving, but is for backroads. Try turning into your driveway on a dark street and you will immediately see what I mean. I do use my fogs on curvy backroads, so its a non-issue for me. The high beam is weak as well (but my rigid dually spots can be triggered by my high beams...).

I'm keeping my set.

BUT... next summer I am retrofitting my OEM set with a clear lens swap and a few shims for color. It makes a HUGE difference according to Lightwerkz. I'll also black them out. Going to turn those for a pretty nice profit margin.
 
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might consider a set soon... my m-led in my kustom54 retrofit... must have gotten loose, i'm flickering light all over the place.

I have the Kustom54s too and Iv'e had to send them back twice, once because they wouldn't stop fogging up, and another time for the LED flickering and burning out
 
I have the Kustom54s too and Iv'e had to send them back twice, once because they wouldn't stop fogging up, and another time for the LED flickering and burning out


Ihave kustom54s with mleds
installed for 1.5 years approximately. no issues until recently
3 of 4 bolts holding the mleds on the bracket loosened overtime..
no loctite, just plain bolts, no lock washers... no locknut

they will warranty this, but i needed my light... right now. so i fixed it, reinstalled and used flange nuts with loctite..
hopefully other side doesn't loosen anytime soon.
 
Came home today to this beast of a box waiting for me:

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The headlights were individually boxed inside with four foam bags on each. Definitely well secured.

The install was pretty much a piece of cake. The fit on everything was reasonably accurate with the exception of a single arm that was bent, likely from packaging:

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Everything else fit well enough so I flexed it down and screwed it into place without much effort and just went with it. Gotta say these are really nicely made, well finished, and overall pretty great from a manufacturing quality standpoint.

I have the USR full LED blackout taillights in my truck and have intermittent hyper-flash with the turn signals in the headlights. I don’t have the sequential signals active on mine. Hazards seem to work fine. Turn signals work fine with the headlights on (edit: mostly, lol). But with just the DRLs, the left signal hyper-flashes every eighth or so blink and the right does it about every fourth. Interestingly, once they’re warmed up they tend to do it less... Likely not a terribly difficult fix with a resistor or LED flash module. If anyone knows of a module cross compatible with ours (Toyota part # 81980-60160) I’d be stoked to check it out. A quick Google-Fu found nothing.

So, I haven’t been able to check the actual performance yet, but goddddamn they look fcuking spectacular on my MGM Nightshade:

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And I definitely dig the look of the DRLs:

e09dbf0b07adbff93483a0a276e4b866.jpg


Anyway, some of the other initial light assessments have me a little worried, but I’ll hold judgment till tonight and update this with my impressions coming from Morimoto 2-Stroke 2.0 lows and stock highs...

EDIT #1: First drive impressions:

I didn't adjust mine before going for a drive and they seemed a bit low, even with a 2.5" front lift. Not a big deal though. Low beam forward light quality and brightness is good. Nice even light and a crispy cutoff. Definitely on par with the 2-Stroke bulbs. High beams are plenty bright enough. Much better than stock. I have a light bar if I need crazy total light.

All of that said, I don't think I can keep these lights (which seriously bums me out). The side cutoff really is really bad like others have said. I had to slow way, way down making turns (even on streets I know well) because I couldn't see into the corner AT ALL. It's no joke. I didn't believe it could be as bad as people were saying, but it is. Honestly, I don't know how this could have passed ANY on-road testing. One decent LED that's only on with the headlights located near the side marker would solve that. But for now, it's not something that's safe to drive in residential/suburban areas without streetlights. Between that and the hyper-flash, these really aren't production ready. I mean, it's 2019, you have to anticipate people who will be making this upgrade are likely going to also have put LEDs in their taillights.

EDIT #2: Like [MENTION=151737]mrblah[/MENTION] has already discovered, removing the DRL harness completely eliminates the hyperflash (and the DRLs, sadly). Updating that small "harness" should be an easy fix.

EDIT #3: Emailed with XD this morning. Got an RMA without hassle. Really wish they just worked properly and I didn't have to deal with this...

Edit #4: Despite planning to return them, my morbid curiosity got the better of me and I wanted to see if the hyperflash was really as easy to fix as I expected... I just ghetto’d out and jammed a 12v 6ohm resistor I had in the shop between the harness and the light and that fixed it completely. Checked both sides individually, hazards, w/DRL, w/parking lights, and w/headlights, and nothing fazed them. So, yeah. Turn back your LED clock to a decade ago before load balanced lights were a thing and there’s your answer. I don’t know if this is awesome or pathetic that it was this easy a fix and they didn’t solve it before shipping.

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Great right up, saves a lot of people grief, thanks for the details. Was looking to get a pair of these to replace a pair of Kustom54s that I just don't want anymore.
 
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Ihave kustom54s with mleds
installed for 1.5 years approximately. no issues until recently
3 of 4 bolts holding the mleds on the bracket loosened overtime..
no loctite, just plain bolts, no lock washers... no locknut

they will warranty this, but i needed my light... right now. so i fixed it, reinstalled and used flange nuts with loctite..
hopefully other side doesn't loosen anytime soon.

I'm afraid of that too. But I guess it's the risk you run sometimes, luckily I kept my OEM housings (not that I wouldn't) so I swapped them in as they were/are getting fixed; but still what if I sold them? Not that it even takes hella long to swap out but it's a straight up inconvenience to the point where I'm weary on even reinstalling them again.
 
Ihave kustom54s with mleds
installed for 1.5 years approximately. no issues until recently
3 of 4 bolts holding the mleds on the bracket loosened overtime..
no loctite, just plain bolts, no lock washers... no locknut

they will warranty this, but i needed my light... right now. so i fixed it, reinstalled and used flange nuts with loctite..
hopefully other side doesn't loosen anytime soon.

Good to know, I'm installing MLED's in my headlights right now, I definitely will put some loctite on my screws, thanks.
 
Good to know, I'm installing MLED's in my headlights right now, I definitely will put some loctite on my screws, thanks.

most of the screws are not accessible from the back...
i was told they don't use loctite as to keep these serviceable..
question is why no lockwashers... or nyloc nuts...
maybe things are different now.
 
most of the screws are not accessible from the back...
i was told they don't use loctite as to keep these serviceable..
question is why no lockwashers... or nyloc nuts...
maybe things are different now.

I figured as much. How did you like the light output of the MLED's? I'm planning to do the chip mod as well
 
I figured as much. How did you like the light output of the MLED's? I'm planning to do the chip mod as well

i didn't do any chip mod, but i like the output. better then stock. previously had 50w hids in oem projector, and these have a better cut off, and i haven't gotten flashed anymore..
kept my highbeam reflector untouched, and have this wired in with a set of 60w.. per bulb led. for highbeam use..
 
Seems the Tundra XB's have problems as well, just looked at there forum. One of the XB dealers stated the 4runnner lights have issues that will be corrected for the production units in October along with the Tundra lights
 

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Cost me hundred bucks to send them back. XD offered a store credit but never responded when I asked for one

If you can get me an order number & copy of your return shipping receipt, will be happy to provide!

Also, if you look at future posts from the guy over on the Tundra forum, he corrects those statements, seemingly based on a misunderstanding
 
I was about to add that the tundra vendor did retract the statements from the previous post as well. I’m sure mild revisions will happen, but I highly doubt that morimoto will blow money on new tooling, molds, and even more prototype units at this point. Also, another member spoke out about having a REAL prototype model. They are not made the same as the “pre production” sets.

I’m pretty happy with my set, and the warranty is INSANE. I am concerned that these won’t exist in 5 years, so a direct swap may be impossible. I would hate to be fed the “we will take x amount off the new versions line”. It has happened to me before.
 
If you can get me an order number & copy of your return shipping receipt, will be happy to provide!

Also, if you look at future posts from the guy over on the Tundra forum, he corrects those statements, seemingly based on a misunderstanding

Gotcha, admittingly I did not read all the pages, only scanned quickly over the tundra forum, sorry for the mix-up.
I'll send over a copy of the order and recipe, thanks
 

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