2014 Trail driverside clicking...

[Trail-AMMO]

Hey Folks,

I have a 2014 Trail with 77K on it that just developed a clicking noise from the front driverside.

I've jacked the truck up and spun both sides by hand and only get the "clicking" sound on the drivers side when both spun forward and backwards.

I'm leaning towards thinking it's the wheel bearing, although it doesn't seem to show any other signs. Checked out at 12 & 6 and 9 & 3 without any play...

I'll be honest I didn't have much experience with IFS front ends, my background is with my 94FZJ80. So this is a whole new world, and a whole lot of new possiable causes..

So I've done some reading and seems like it could be the wheel bearing as I mentioned, CV or the diff side bearing?

Anyone have any experience with this type of situation on a 5th gen?

The rig hasn't been wheeled and only put in 4wd in the snow, so I find it hard to believe it's the front axel. I should mention I'm running the Amazon special Daystar spacer lift like 1-2" no diff drop and almost flat axel angles...

Any suggestions before I chase my tail, roll the dice and replace a bunch of stuff?

Thanks,

-A

 

[1engineer]

Hey Folks,

I have a 2014 Trail with 77K on it that just developed a clicking noise from the front driverside.

I've jacked the truck up and spun both sides by hand and only get the "clicking" sound on the drivers side when both spun forward and backwards.

I'm leaning towards thinking it's the wheel bearing, although it doesn't seem to show any other signs. Checked out at 12 & 6 and 9 & 3 without any play...

I'll be honest I didn't have much experience with IFS front ends, my background is with my 94FZJ80. So this is a whole new world, and a whole lot of new possiable causes..

So I've done some reading and seems like it could be the wheel bearing as I mentioned, CV or the diff side bearing?

Anyone have any experience with this type of situation on a 5th gen?

The rig hasn't been wheeled and only put in 4wd in the snow, so I find it hard to believe it's the front axel. I should mention I'm running the Amazon special Daystar spacer lift like 1-2" no diff drop and almost flat axel angles...

Any suggestions before I chase my tail, roll the dice and replace a bunch of stuff?

Thanks,

-A

If you are running 285's, wheel spacers or different offset wheels then chances are it's the wheel bearing. I believe I have read every thread here on this topic and, while not all people who do these mods have wheel bearing issues, there has not been a reported failure of wheel bearings on an unmodified vehicle.

 

[Trail-AMMO]

If you are running 285's, wheel spacers or different offset wheels then chances are it's the wheel bearing. I believe I have read every thread here on this topic and, while not all people who do these mods have wheel bearing issues, there has not been a reported failure of wheel bearings on an unmodified vehicle.

Good point, I was running 265 Duratrac's in E flavor... with stock Trail wheels and spacers...

I've just moved over to BFG KO's in "C" still running stock Trail wheels and spacers...

It's a similar sound to when you "free wheel" on a bike, like a tumbler click or a ratchet...

Not really a wheel bearing "grind" but I know bearings can make all sorts of sounds. I've had catastrophic wheel bearing failure before, lost a 37" Irock off my 80 series while driving cross country. To be expected running such a heavy tire, wheel combo.

Just wouldn't expect it in a basically stock set up at 77K. It appears the wheel bearings on the 5th gen is a self contained unit? Seems pretty easy to swap for added piece of mind.

Just hate to do it and find out it's something else.

 

[1engineer]

Good point, I was running 265 Duratrac's in E flavor... with stock Trail wheels and spacers...

I've just moved over to BFG KO's in "C" still running stock Trail wheels and spacers...

It's a similar sound to when you "free wheel" on a bike, like a tumbler click or a ratchet...

Not really a wheel bearing "grind" but I know bearings can make all sorts of sounds. I've had catastrophic wheel bearing failure before, lost a 37" Irock off my 80 series while driving cross country. To be expected running such a heavy tire, wheel combo.

Just wouldn't expect it in a basically stock set up at 77K. It appears the wheel bearings on the 5th gen is a self contained unit? Seems pretty easy to swap for added piece of mind.

Just hate to do it and find out it's something else.

No, you sound like you are on the right track. [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] has replaced three, Jonesy replaced a few and several others on here have done it as well. All have had either bigger, heavier tires, wheel spacers and/or wheels with a high offset. None that I can remember with a stock wheel/tire size set.

It's not so much the weight of the tire it's the spacers and offset that adds additional loading to the wheel bearing.

I would test it by making a series of hard turns, unloading the inside wheel of it's load while listening to the sound. If it temporarily goes away during turns then it definitely is the wheel bearing. If you replace just go ahead and do both sides.

 

[wfo9]

it's most likely wheel bearing or CV, maybe diff bearings....

I purchased a cheap used aftermarket CV ($50). My plan is to break it down (remove the axle and just have the ends) for trail repairs and situations like this.

It allows you to:
1)Get home even if you blow the front diff.
2) diagnose noises by process of elimination.

The bearings need the outer shaft for support, so normally it is impossible to drive without a CV installed.

That is the only way I know of to be 100% sure when the normal diagnosis techniques (like play in the wheel) don't make it obvious. You could just try a cheap CV first... If the noise is still there... you can't isolate the diff without removing the shaft itself.

 

[Trail-AMMO]

No, you sound like you are on the right track. [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] has replaced three, Jonesy replaced a few and several others on here have done it as well. All have had either bigger, heavier tires, wheel spacers and/or wheels with a high offset. None that I can remember with a stock wheel/tire size set.

It's not so much the weight of the tire it's the spacers and offset that adds additional loading to the wheel bearing.

I would test it by making a series of hard turns, unloading the inside wheel of it's load while listening to the sound. If it temporarily goes away during turns then it definitely is the wheel bearing. If you replace just go ahead and do both sides.

Thanks, I think it's safe to say running your test would yield the same results as when I had the truck on the jack. When completely unloaded and hand spun I get the clicking... when on the ground loaded turning I get the clicking...

When given the "shake test" 12&6 and 9&3 no movement, but not sure how much to expect on an IFS system. I know what to "feel" on a solid axel and assume it would be similar. Again as of right now no play, and I've been checking it weekly.

Thanks for all the help.

-A

 

[Trail-AMMO]

Side question, any good places for OME parts...

I've found most of my online resources that I've used don't stock newer parts... aside from actually purchasing from a dealer with a discount code or "hook up".

Just curious, I can search. I know over on Mud several members actually work at dealers and offer board discounts ect.

Thanks,

-A

 

[Trail-AMMO]

As it's looking more and more like a wheel bearing job...

So for those who have done this job before [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION], [MENTION=25914]jonesy[/MENTION] did you opt to press on a new Timken bearing or buy a complete aftermarket unit? Any brands to stay away from?

I generally try to stay with factory Toyota stuff but also know that Toyota doesn't make bearings...

I'm found complete units on Amazon for $160 range and Timken bearings for $60 but would need a press.

Lastly, as I haven't torn into it yet. Anyway to add locking hubs to the front of these? Haven't looked at the drive flanges, are there any? Seeems it would be nice to free wheel the front and take some of that wear and tear off the front especially if you lift the rig.

Thanks,

-A

 

[Antman]

As it's looking more and more like a wheel bearing job...

So for those who have done this job before [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION], [MENTION=25914]jonesy[/MENTION] did you opt to press on a new Timken bearing or buy a complete aftermarket unit? Any brands to stay away from?

I generally try to stay with factory Toyota stuff but also know that Toyota doesn't make bearings...

I'm found complete units on Amazon for $160 range and Timken bearings for $60 but would need a press.

Lastly, as I haven't torn into it yet. Anyway to add locking hubs to the front of these? Haven't looked at the drive flanges, are there any? Seeems it would be nice to free wheel the front and take some of that wear and tear off the front especially if you lift the rig.

Thanks,

-A

I went with complete hub units. On and off instantly.

 

[metanight]

does it go away when you engage 4x4? after lifting my previous vehicle with a spacer lift, the passenger front hub was stuck engaged in 4x4 while my drivers side would completely disengage. had this very loud ticking/groaning sound comping from the front.

 

[wfo9]

Lastly, as I haven't torn into it yet. Anyway to add locking hubs to the front of these? Haven't looked at the drive flanges, are there any? Seeems it would be nice to free wheel the front and take some of that wear and tear off the front especially if you lift the rig.

Thanks,

-A

Not possible to add locking hubs... Well, it's possible but nobody makes them..

The hubs themselves are the drive flange. The CV axles are always engaged. The disconnect mechanism is only on the passenger side of the diff. The driver side CV goes straight into the diff. When in 2wd, the passenger side disconnects from the stub shaft right at the diff.

Replacing a fully assembled hub assembly is super easy. I've never tried to press in out the bearings... It looks to be a pain. I've done it several times on solid axle trucks (which is super easy and no press required, just a driver...). These bearings are a much bigger PITA to press. There is hardly anything to grab on to...

 

[adaml]

Not possible to add locking hubs... Well, it's possible but nobody makes them..

The hubs themselves are the drive flange. The CV axles are always engaged. The disconnect mechanism is only on the passenger side of the diff. The driver side CV goes straight into the diff. When in 2wd, the passenger side disconnects from the stub shaft right at the diff.

Replacing a fully assembled hub assembly is super easy. I've never tried to press in out the bearings... It looks to be a pain. I've done it several times on solid axle trucks (which is super easy and no press required, just a driver...). These bearings are a much bigger PITA to press. There is hardly anything to grab on to...

Can you please break this down a little bit more? I'm smarter with car stuff than your average guy btu there's a lot I don't know. Can you explain some more about what's actually going in between 2WD and 4WD?

 

[Trail-AMMO]

I went with complete hub units. On and off instantly.

What brand did you go with?

 

[Trail-AMMO]

Can you please break this down a little bit more? I'm smarter with car stuff than your average guy btu there's a lot I don't know. Can you explain some more about what's actually going in between 2WD and 4WD?

Back in the late 90's I had a Montero Sport that I used Warn universal locking hubs on...

Curious if this is the same type of system or if something similar could be used.