2016 parking light wire location...

[MadeInMaine]

I am looking to tap into the parking light.
Looking at the headlight assembly, it looks like the white and green/white.

Can anyone either confirm this or tell me a better place to tap into it for power recognition for when the lights are turned on. I am installing the Switch Pro 8100 and need a connection to dim when headlights turn on.

Cheers

 

[Zapper]

I just installed 2 AOB switches. I tapped into the black and gray wire of the windshield heater switch. Not sure what your using to tap these wires, but T taps are frowned upon. I stripped the wire back to piggyback and solder my wires.
Hope this helps.

 

[MadeInMaine]

I just installed 2 AOB switches. I tapped into the black and gray wire of the windshield heater switch. Not sure what your using to tap these wires, but T taps are frowned upon. I stripped the wire back to piggyback and solder my wires.
Hope this helps.

1. Do you know why T taps are frowned upon?

2. I need the parking light because it is connected to sensor to tell the unit to dim when lights are on.

Thank you for chiming in

 

[bofa]

If you want to avoid soldering, check out posi-taps. I hate T taps.

 

[e60ral]

1. Do you know why T taps are frowned upon?

2. I need the parking light because it is connected to sensor to tell the unit to dim when lights are on.

Thank you for chiming in

t-taps cut into the wire a bit so in addition to being an oxidation point, over time can wear through the wire. because of this they are not good for high amperage or situations where a small resistance change can cause issues (items like sensors or controls). posi-taps are a bit better in regards to wire integrity, but still not perfect.

just you some sense about where you are using them, i've used t-taps on plenty of things without issue just not on anything high amperage or on a wire that will cause major problems if it fails.

 

[Zapper]

1. Do you know why T taps are frowned upon?

2. I need the parking light because it is connected to sensor to tell the unit to dim when lights are on.

Thank you for chiming in

T taps are not reliable and could cause future issues.

Just like my AOB switches, its the black and gray wire on the heater switch that will give you the ability to dim your switch.

 

[Mariner]

I t-tapped into the green wire on my blinker for my grille lights. I hate t-taps too but I didn't want to take the whole bumper off to do it correctly. I'll just deal with it down the road if there's issues.

 

[flyrv9]

A 2 into 1 crimp splice is a better option. Cut the wire you want to tap into and strip both ends. Strip one end twice as long as needed. Use a crimp barrel splice that is large enough to accommodate 2 stripped wires on each end. On one end insert one of the original wires and the wire you want to add and crimp. On the other end fold over the the wire you stripped long and insert in splice and crimp. You can also use a dummy wire here if length is an issue. I'd also use some heat shrink to cover everything - remembering to slide the heat shrink over one side before any connections are made. This method makes a much better connection than poking into a wire with a tap and is protected. You can buy combo insulated / uninsulated contact crimpers at Home Depot or Lowes in the electrical tools section.

Soldering and heat shrink is also an option provided you know how to solder and can make and identify a good connection.

 

[MadeInMaine]

T taps are not reliable and could cause future issues.

Just like my AOB switches, its the black and gray wire on the heater switch that will give you the ability to dim your switch.

[MENTION=145795]Zapper[/MENTION] Where is this wire located and what does it look like?
Thanks

 

[Zapper]

[MENTION=145795]Zapper[/MENTION] Where is this wire located and what does it look like?
Thanks

So pull the knee pollster off, which is connected to the center consul and doesn't come off completely. At least you don't need to completely remove it. I wish I could have removed it to increase the work space. Open the wire loom on the heater switch. You will need to tap the gray and black wire. These will give you power to dim the switch. ?? How many wires are coming off your new switch?

 

[MadeInMaine]

So pull the knee pollster off, which is connected to the center consul and doesn't come off completely. At least you don't need to completely remove it. I wish I could have removed it to increase the work space. Open the wire loom on the heater switch. You will need to tap the gray and black wire. These will give you power to dim the switch. ?? How many wires are coming off your new switch?

I only need 1 wire. It is the Switch Pro 8100. This wire is simply to tell the unit to dim when I turn my lights on.

 

[wcjeep]

I like the dual circuit adapter. No splicing. They come in different sizes. It sounds like you are using it as a trigger? Use a 1amp fuse to send power to your device. They are also handy when powering a relay.


eBay link

 

[Zapper]

I only need 1 wire. It is the Switch Pro 8100. This wire is simply to tell the unit to dim when I turn my lights on.

Ok. Now I understand the confusion. AOB and other switches like these use 2 wires to control the dimming off the dimmer switch. The black lead you would tap into acts as the control to ground to alter the voltage. Your switch...is a lot different.
"There is also a programming function to adjust the brightness of backlighting and indicator LEDs." yours is not dimmable from the vehicle dimmer switch.

You could add a fuse tap and connect it to the blue #4 wire on your switch. Littelfuse FHA200BP ATO Add-A-Circuit Kit from Amazon will work. This will give the your new panels 12v constant when the key in ON.

Looks like the Yellow #3 wire can go to the gray wire off the heater switch to get the power for back lighting when the parking lights are on.

Clear as mud right!

 

[Zapper]

Disregard. Follow the directions. I just looked at the installation guide and you need to follow those. I was tracking down a different path. Good luck.

 

[MadeInMaine]

Ha, thanks either way.

So I guess back to my original question.
Can anyone confirm location of parking light wires on 2016?

Thanks

 

[MadeInMaine]

Anyone?

Location of parking light (+) wire?

Thanks

 

[Mariner]

Anyone?

Location of parking light (+) wire?

Thanks

Your best bet would be to test the plug itself with a multimeter.

 

[bkone]

Anyone?

Location of parking light (+) wire?

Thanks

Did you find out the location and color of the wire? I'm trying to install the switch pro as well. Thanks!

 

[MTN4RNR]

Did you find out the location and color of the wire? I'm trying to install the switch pro as well. Thanks!

Look at installing an Add-a-fuse, available at any parts store, and simply install it on the fuse panel under the dash for the parking lights. No splicing or modifying OEM wires, and it'll have a separate fuse. Good luck!

 

[MadeInMaine]

Did you find out the location and color of the wire? I'm trying to install the switch pro as well. Thanks!

Nope, unfortunately not

Look at installing an Add-a-fuse, available at any parts store, and simply install it on the fuse panel under the dash for the parking lights. No splicing or modifying OEM wires, and it'll have a separate fuse. Good luck!

That may work but I couldn't find a fuse for just the parking lights and nothing else, if I remember correctly.