2016 TE - Rear Diff Not Locking

Woz1976-MT

New member
Ok, I read the manual and on a dirt two-track was practicing the proper way to engage all of the off-road systems on my new TE. I put it in 4H at about 15 mph, solid green light. I drove for a bit and stopped, put the trans in N, shifted in 4L, and drove a short distance. I stopped, put the trans in N, and attempted to lock the rear differential. The red locked indicator flashed continuously and never locked after about 4 minutes. I did put the trans in gear while holding the brake, still the same. I let the 4Runner creep forward a bit, still the same flashing.

Am I doing something wrong, or is there a problem with my e-locker?
 
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Ok, I read the manual and on a dirt two-track was practicing the proper way to engage all of the off-road systems on my new TE. I put it in 4H at about 15 mph, solid green light. I drove for a bit and stopped, put the trans in N, shifted in 4L, and drove a short distance. I stopped, put the trans in N, and attempted to lock the rear differential. The red locked indicator flashed continuously and never locked after about 4 minutes. I did put the trans in gear while holding the brake, still the same. I let the 4Runner creep forward a bit, still the same flashing.

Am I doing something wrong, or is there a problem with my e-locker?


You must be moving, in 4Low for it to engage, the slower the better. You might need to give your steering wheel a 1/8th turn, left then right while moving slowly to make it click in. I do this in 4Low, first gear every month on a loose surface. Keeps it from freezing up so it's there when you need it.
 
You must be moving, in 4Low for it to engage, the slower the better. You might need to give your steering wheel a 1/8th turn, left then right while moving slowly to make it click in. I do this in 4Low, first gear every month on a loose surface. Keeps it from freezing up so it's there when you need it.

Thanks, I'll give this a try.

It's amazing at how quickly your blood pressure rises when you have a "concern" over one's 4Runner. :)
 
Nah... I found the same with me (especially when new). You may need to simply turn the vehicle slighty or just put it in reverse for a few feet then back in drive. It's gotta engage... it doesn't just lock immediately. ;)

btw... it was the same in a truck I had as well. It's not just a Toyota thing.
 
Thanks, I'll give this a try.

It's amazing at how quickly your blood pressure rises when you have a "concern" over one's 4Runner. :)

PS, if you're already in 4LO and moving, you don't need to stop to engage it, in fact don't, just push the button. If you're going fast in 4LO, you many need to slow down and force it into #1 gear instead of D to get a lock. The reasoning is if you "need" a locker you should not be going fast anyway. If you're going fast in 4LO, you don't need the locker, do you.
 
Will the lock engage easier with time, or will this be how it always is?

I had a '08 Tundra TRD Off-Road for several years -- it didn't have an e-locker, just the A-TRAC (front and rear). I want to make sure I'm getting everything "right" before I need/choose to use any of these features. (Next, I'm going to practice getting my spare tire out in a warm, dry garage!)

Thanks for the help/advice!!!
 
PS, if you're already in 4LO and moving, you don't need to stop to engage it, in fact don't, just push the button. If you're going fast in 4LO, you many need to slow down and force it into #1 gear instead of D to get a lock.


Thanks. I was under the impression (I'm certainly no mechanic) that you had to completely stopped to engage the e-locker. This might have been my problem -- I only moved forward a tiny bit when I was trying it.
 
Will the lock engage easier with time, or will this be how it always is?

I had a '08 Tundra TRD Off-Road for several years -- it didn't have an e-locker, just the A-TRAC (front and rear). I want to make sure I'm getting everything "right" before I need/choose to use any of these features. (Next, I'm going to practice getting my spare tire out in a warm, dry garage!)

Thanks for the help/advice!!!

Yep, it seems to get easier after a few miles. :) Best wishes!
 
Will the lock engage easier with time, or will this be how it always is?

I had a '08 Tundra TRD Off-Road for several years -- it didn't have an e-locker, just the A-TRAC (front and rear). I want to make sure I'm getting everything "right" before I need/choose to use any of these features. (Next, I'm going to practice getting my spare tire out in a warm, dry garage!)

Thanks for the help/advice!!!

Mine seemed to get a little looser but not a lot. It's pretty consistent if I get it into 4LO, lock it into 1st gear, and then engage the locker. Sometimes I have to rock the steering wheel back and forth. You've got parts trying to match up that are turning independently. The steering wheel trick helps to mate up quicker.



Thanks. I was under the impression (I'm certainly no mechanic) that you had to completely stopped to engage the e-locker. This might have been my problem -- I only moved forward a tiny bit when I was trying it.

No, you must stop to engage 4LO. Then you must be moving to both engage AND disengage the locker. Mine usually locks up in 10-20 yards max. Idle speed in 4LO 1st gear works good to engage. You can disengage at a faster 4LO speed.

The more you exercise it, the more reliably it will work.

Your manual says to drive 10 miles in 4x4 per month to keep things lubed. I also test 4LO and the Locker just as often.

PS, if it's dry pavement during your 10 miles, go straight, no turning. Keeps it from binding up from no slippage. Shift out, turn the corner on pavement and then shift it back into 4 HI. ( for city folk) It does not have to be all at once. Drive 1 mile a day or 2 miles a week, etc.
 
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Thanks to all! :thumb3:

I tried it today at very low speed in 4Lo, with some slight turning of the steering wheel, and the e-locker locked fairly quickly. I tried it a couple of times, as well as practiced with Crawl Control a little, too.
 
In simple terms the e-locker is a splined sleeve that sits over one axle half shaft. When you engage it a solenoid moves it over the other splined axle half shaft trying to lock them together. If the two shafts splines aren't aligned then it needs some movement to make it mesh. Hence moving forward and turning the wheel side to side a little. The makes the rear wheels move at slightly different speeds allowing the splines to sync up. I've had to move forward as much as 20' and then wiggle the steering before mine would lock. I hope this description helps you visualize how it works.
 
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On my 2003 Tacoma TRD with the e-locker, it always took a second to engage while moving. It would not engage at all above 10 mph IIRC. Drive slow and turn a little if you have to.
 
In simple terms the e-locker is a splined sleeve that sits over one axle half shaft. When you engage it a solenoid moves it over the other splined axle half shaft trying to lock them together. If the two shafts splines aren't aligned then it needs some movement to make it mesh. Hence moving forward and turning the wheel side to side a little. The makes the rear wheels move at slightly different speeds allowing the splines to sync up. I've had to move forward as much as 20' and then wiggle the steering before mine would lock. I hope this description helps you visually how it works.
Here's what it looks like
DSCN5521.JPG
 
The worst is when it takes its time turning off, the other day after a particularly tricky portion I was making a sharp hairpin and could not get it to turn off until I finally went in reverse

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
 
Ok, I read the manual and on a dirt two-track was practicing the proper way to engage all of the off-road systems on my new TE. I put it in 4H at about 15 mph, solid green light. I drove for a bit and stopped, put the trans in N, shifted in 4L, and drove a short distance. I stopped, put the trans in N, and attempted to lock the rear differential. The red locked indicator flashed continuously and never locked after about 4 minutes. I did put the trans in gear while holding the brake, still the same. I let the 4Runner creep forward a bit, still the same flashing.

Am I doing something wrong, or is there a problem with my e-locker?

I would not engage any manufactures part time 4WD on solid dry pavement as it will wear out the drive train quickly. tire wear differences , slight turning will do the damage. . on a slow speed like 10 MPH engage the 4wd for a few seconds every few months when the road is wet to ensure its still working.

the locker may hang up if stopped moving slowly it should engage .
 
I would not engage any manufactures part time 4WD on solid dry pavement as it will wear out the drive train quickly. tire wear differences , slight turning will do the damage. . on a slow speed like 10 MPH engage the 4wd for a few seconds every few months when the road is wet to ensure its still working.

the locker may hang up if stopped moving slowly it should engage .


Not sure if you know what a "two track" is, but it's a dirt road (here in Montana usually used by farmers/ranchers/hunters) and it is very unimproved. And, if you're moving in a straight line and are not turning the vehicle/steering wheel I do know that it will not hurt the drivetrain in the least being in 4WD for driving short distances -- like getting the front differential gears/transfer case parts moving each month for lubrication (that hasn't changed from the time I had my Tundra). There is no difference in the rotational speed of the tires when going straight and therefore no rotational difference in the differential -- even if it's locked.
 
Not sure if you know what a "two track" is, but it's a dirt road (here in Montana usually used by farmers/ranchers/hunters) and it is very unimproved. And, if you're moving in a straight line and are not turning the vehicle/steering wheel I do know that it will not hurt the drivetrain in the least being in 4WD for driving short distances -- like getting the front differential gears/transfer case parts moving each month for lubrication (that hasn't changed from the time I had my Tundra). There is no difference in the rotational speed of the tires when going straight and therefore no rotational difference in the differential -- even if it's locked.

solid dry pavement IMO is asphalt/concrete materials. rocks/hard packed sediments good for four wheel drive operation with any type of surface condition wet/snow/dry since the wheels will slip . you will not have any damage in 4wd on unpaved roads no problem.

there is always some difference in rotation. this increases as the tires wear down. also any turns on the steering .

on solid dry pavement 4WD should never be used . this is PART TIME 4wd ..
 
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